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logan1

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Posts posted by logan1

    My 240z is almost done

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    QUESTION / PUBLIC OPINION

     

    Since the current tint on the windows done by the previous owner is rather low quality shoddy job that is now stating to peel. Should I

     

    a. Get it re-tinted with a dark tint?

    b. Get it re-tinted with a light tint?

    c. Get it re-tinted with a is some color other than the regular black tint?

    d. Remove the tint completely?

    My 240z is almost done

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by logan1

    unfortunately i am going to have to raise the car up an inch or so in order to make it streetable. I realize that raiseing it will take away from its awesome stance but this is a car built to be driven and driven fast. Also i do not have a build thread as i am too lazy to maintain one.

    My 240z is almost done

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Looks great-like the body colored flares and how low it is. I just ordered the same rear spoiler from Brian [azcarbum] and can't wait to get it!

     

    My spoiler is the original sparrow tail and not the Z-GR tail. but since the Z-GR is just a modified sparrow tail this should give you a good idea as to how the the spoiler will look.

    My 240z is almost done

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    thanx for the kind words guy. I'm really proud of how well the car has turned out. I did all the work myself including painting the car in my garage. I did only had a little rust but the floor board were in good condition for the most part.

     

    Also as Snailed stated the spoiler is not the wail-tail but a sparrow tail.

    My 240z is almost done

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Well i had the windshield installed on my 240z yesterday and was finally able to take it out of the garage after a rather lengthy 2 years of restoration. The car still needs a bit of work to get it to a 100% but i could not resist taking and sharing a few pictures. The car still needs to be color sanded and buffed. I'm also waiting on my upgraded headlight and taillight harnesses from MSA and a friend will be over tomorrow to weld in some rear brackets so i can mount the 7/8" sway bar in the back. Right now the car is a lil too slammed but i'll be raising it up an 1" or 2.

     

    IMG_0165-1.jpg

     

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    IMG_0155.jpg

    MIata Wiper motor wiring question

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Hi guys,

     

    Anyone have the wiring diagram for the miata wiper motor upgrade. I have the new wiper motor in place but don't really know which wire is to be connected to which prong. I searched and all i can find is the wiring diagram for the honda wiper motor swap. Also if anyone used a relay i would love to see the wiring for the relay as well.

     

    thanx

    240z Brake wont bleed

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by logan1

    Ok so i took the day off work to day and swapped the left and right calipers as instructed. Then I started bleeding the system again starting with the MC and then the 4 calipers and now the brake pedal is tight as a drum. It moves down approx 1" down before it starts to engage and bottoms out after approx 3-4" of travel. the braked seem to be working well as i am unable to move the wheels by hand once the brake is engaged. I cant drive my car yet but i think the brake problem is fixed. Also i don't think i extended the push rod in the brake booster too much but i'll know for sure next week once the car is on the road.

     

    I really appreciate you guy taking the time to trouble shoot my car problems.

     

    thanx

    John

    240z Brake wont bleed

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by logan1

    Are all of your bleeders at the top of your calipers?

     

    No all my bleed valves are at the bottom of the calipers

     

     

    Did you adjust the pushrod between the booster and the 280ZX MC? It has to be adjusted longer. see :http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=46973

    Another question that comes up often is "is the reaction disk in the booster missing". There is a write up in the brake section on this.

     

    Kool thanx for the info. I had not adjusted my pushrod to account for the new 15/16 MC. I adjusted the pushrod as instructed in the thread you linked and the pedal felt a little better.

     

     

    I had same problem. Try running a tube from the master cyl bleeder screw and the reservoir to get all that air out. I had to take off my rear calipers and bleed them while rotating them at multiple different angles to get all the air out. Does anybody know if stock 240z FRONT calipers have to be rotated around like that to get all the air out-or is the stock location ok for bleeding?

     

    I'll be doing the same thing for the front and rear tomorrow.

     

     

     

    If they pump up and the fluid drops in the reservoir, you have a big air bubble in the system. Probably in the calipers, because the bleed screw is not positioned at the top of the cylinder like it should be. The fluid is taking the place of the air as it is compressed by pumping the pedal. The air doesn't come out because the fluid just passes under the bubble on its way out the bleed screw.

     

    If you look at the caliper you'll probably be able to discern the shape of the cylinder that the piston rides in. The bleed screw, if its port is drilled straight in to the cylinder, should be at the top of the cylinder, while bleeding. It's position will depend on how the engineers designed the caliper mounting on the car they came from. I've heard that some times you'll have to remove the mounting bolts and reposition the caliper to get the bleeder on the top. As long as the pistons are squeezing the rotor, or even a block of wood, you can bleed them that way then reposition them and bolt them back down for use.

     

    All of my bleed valves are at the bottom of the calipers. Tomorrow i'll take the calipers of the mounts and see if i can bleed then with the bleed screw at the top. I'll report back as to how it turns out.

    240z Brake wont bleed

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by logan1

    Ok so I've been trying to bleed my brakes all day today and still cant get it to work. My car is a 1970 240z and has the Toyota S12W brakes in the front and the 280ZX disk brake conversion on the back; I'm running SS braided brake lines between the hard lines and the calipers and also have the larger 280ZX master cylinder installed.

     

    From what i can tell there are no bubbles in the lines as i can have someone sit in the car and pump the breaks and when i open the bleed screw i shoots out a steady stream of brake fluid. I read a bunch of stuff on the site and as instructed started by bleeding the MC and them proceeded to bleed the 4 calipers. I have not bleed through almost 2 quarts of DOT-3 brake fluid and the pedal still goes all the way to the floor with little to no resistance. However if i pump the brake 5 or 6 times it gets firm and provides enough pressure to the calipers to stop the wheels from moving. Also when i pump the brake the fluid lvl in the master cylinder starts to drop and holds steady after about 4 pumps of the pedal and when the pedal is released the fluid lvl slowly start to rise back up.

     

    I'm not sure what i need to try next?

    240z Aluminum Radiator

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted

    buy a nice 2 row radiator off Ebay. I bought a three row from the same source. The Champion radiator is what I bought

    8 out of 10 for quality. witch is great considering there under $200

     

    cool thanx for the idea. I went ahead and bought a 3 row champion off ebay for $190 shipped.

    240z Aluminum Radiator

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted

    Found out today that my stock radiator is leaking so now I'm looking for a good replacement 2 or 3 row aluminum radiator for my 240z. Let me know if if you have a set for sale. Please PM me a price with shipping to 74012.

    240Z TAIL LIGHTS WIRING harness

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted · Edited by logan1

    I need a set of 240z tail light wiring harness cause i cut my harness up in an attempt to make LED tail lights and now new another set. Let me know if if you have a set for sale. Please PM me a price with shipping to 74012.

     

    240zTailLightharness.jpg

    240z headlights and taillights not working

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by logan1

    I been stuck for the last 2 day on a wiring problem that I just can’t figure out.

     

    On my 1970 240z all my fuses are stable and I have everything on the wiring harness connected per the FSM but my headlights and tail lights/brake lights are not getting any power. However my backup/reverse lights are getting power. I just converted my headlight with a HID kit and my taillights are an LED kit. If i run wire from the positive of the battery directly to the back of the taillight the light-up just fine. So i obviously have an open circuit somewhere but can figure out where the harness is open.

     

    To give a little background on my car; the car has been through a full frame off restoration over the last 2.2 years and I am finally close to being able to drive it. The car starts and runs like a champ; it has the E12-80 upgrade with the 280z tach. I reinstalled the dash and wired everything up but am unable to get power to the headlights and taillights.

    I’m sure it’s something really simple that I’m missing but at this point I’m unable to figure it out on my own and need some input from you guys.

     

    Any help you guys can offer is appreciated.

    240z wiring problem fuse keeps blowing

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    Ok just to conclude this thread so that the next person searching for answers has a clear direction on how to fix the problem.

     

    I had to replace my 240z tach with a 280 z tach due to the E12-80 upgrade. I connected the +ve and -ve off the 240z tach to the 280z tach and abandon the induction loops; then i ran a separate 18 gauge wire front the 3rd connector on the 280z tach directly to the -ve of the ignition coil in the engine bay. Now all my fuses are stable and my new tach is working well.

    Interior Plastic Rivets

    in Interior

    Posted

    Hey guys,

     

    I'm in the process of putting my interior panels back on and noticed that i was missing a bunch of the OEM black plastic rivets. Anyone know where i can get some replacements at a decent price?

     

    thanx

    240z wiring problem fuse keeps blowing

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    Ok i think i know what the problem is with the FLASHER fuse. Since i did the E12-80 upgrade and removed the ballast resistor the tack connection is blowing the fuse; i unplugged the connector at the back of the tach and not the fuse is stable. Not sure how i will fix it but atleast i have a starting point to do more research.

     

    On the first one i had the +ve and -ve crossed on the brake stop light sensor and hence the STOP fuse was blowing.

    240z wiring problem fuse keeps blowing

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    Hi Guys,

     

    First off i am not very good with wiring and electronics. I would really appreciate you assistance is solving my current problem.

     

    On my 1970 240Z; 2 of my fuses keep blowing and i need help finding the problem. Below is a picture showing the 2 fues that keep blowing.

     

    240zfuseboxlid.jpg

     

     

    For a lil background on my car i have converted it to the E12-80 280zx distributer upgrade and i have done CS144 alternator upgrade. I'm not sure what other information you would need to help diagnose the problem so please ask question.

     

    thank you for your help

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