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On the back end I have a CF Sparrow-tail spoiler to hopefully balance out the splitter. The big splitter imo looks out of place as well. That why I'm considering reshaping it to make it match the body lines better.

Ok so once again im trying to make a chin splitter for my 240z. Im currnelty tyring different designs and thought i could you a lil input from you guys. Should i stay with the more angular design or should i round the splitter out to match the lines of the airdam? I marked out the cut line if i were to make the splitter rounded to match the airdam. Or maybe it looks better without a chin splitter. Let me know you thoughts. Few pictures below: CUT LINE FOR ROUNDED SPLITTER:

payment sent thanx

Ill take em. whats your Paypal information?

I destroyed my drivers side door and am in need of some hinges. I already have a replacement door but my hinges are also messed up. So I'm looking for a set of Drivers side door hinges for my 1970 240z. Please let me know if you have a set for sale and price. Thanx John

Hi Guys, I destroyed up my 240z yesterday. So far this has been the worst new year of my life. In any case i am in need of a replacement drivers side door. Please let me know if you have one for sale and how much you want for it. Shipping with be to Broken Arrow, OK 74012. Below are pictures of my destroyed door. [url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/anaranchi/media/IMAG2343_zps0e589e19.jpg.html]

it'll be fine...the car is never going to be on the track.

Well guys i could no longer resist and so now i have built my very first roll cage. Its far from perfect but for now it will do me just fine. My requirement for this cage was that it had to allow me to recline my seat all the way back. Being that i; 6'5" tall leg room is @ a premium for me. Also i wanted the cage to bolt into the car so that if i wanted to remove it i would do so easily. I got 1 5/8" mild rolled steel tubing with a 0.120 wall thickness and borrowed a cheap harbor freight pipe bender and a harbor freight $99 welder from a friend. The bends with the HF pipe bender are not perfect but for a almost 100% street car they work just fine. The base plates are made of .25" steel. and i use another 0.25" plate of steel to sandwitch the rear fender to bolt the roll cage. For the rear i built a set of plates with nuts welded to the bottom that mount onto the rear strut tower. COST SO FAR: Steel Tubing: $55 for 25' Welding wire: $15 for 0.5lb flux core spool Tube Bender: Free Welder: Free Grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers: $15 for 20 bolts, steel locknuts and 40 hardened washers. Foam padding from lowes: $8 TOTAL COST: $93 TIME SPEND: Approx 40hrs.

Dont bother with the 305. If you are going to go through the trouble of a V8 swap just get a 350 or larger.

Anyone know the spec's on this car? Saw this picture while looking for datsun body kits and it looks like a beast.

The new car will be sold only in India, Russia and Indonesia initially, as it is being targeted primarily at emerging markets. http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2013/05/02/new-datsun-to-be-unveiled-this-summer/

To run a WC T5 out of a Chevy Fbody car you will need the a 153T SBC flywheel and 10.5" Clutch and pressure plate. you best bet will be to buy a high torque ministarter off ebay. You will need to upgrade your clutch. The cheapest way to go will be to use a clutch master cylinder out of a 90's F150 and the clutch slave cylinder out of a 90's camaro (or anyother Fbody car that ran a T5).

Well if im not mistaken the Datsun T5 bolt pattern in similar to the ford bolt pattern. So in order to do it would would need a Chevy T5 bellhousing and a adapter plate to bolt the datsun T5. Also the Datsun T5 will be eaten alive by the SBC. You are going to be better off finding a cheap WC T5 from a F-body chevy off craigslist and going with that. Once you factor in the cost of teh bellhousing, adapter plate, and input shaft you will be spending a lot more money to run a weaker transmission behind your SBC if you pick the datsun T5.

I think i documented a good bit of it with lots of pictures in page 3. However I used a WC T5 out of a mustang since it is much easier to find. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102903-my-240z-is-almost-done/page-3

You should be able to do the swap for 2K easy. I am in the process of doing a SBC 355 swap right now. I was able to score a 4 bolt main freshly rebuild motor for $700 and am now replacing the stock 882 heads with patriot freedom aluminum heads i got on craigslist for $400. I am running a borgwarner WC T5 transmission but if you want to go auto you can run a 700R4 or a TH400. You just have to look through CL everyday and you will be able to find an excellent deal.

looks like a T5 out of a Ford

Im in the process of getting my 240z finished up as well. I however have a lil 355 sbc with a Mustang T5 WC and 4.11 R200 diff. Hopefully it all works well together and makes the car a whole lotta fun. Why run a TH350 and not a 700R4?

damn that looks like a monster. What transmission are you putting behind it and what are the rearend gears going ti be?

PM me a price with shipping to Broken arrow, Oklahoma 74012.

thanx for all the good information guys. Looks like the 292H is the winner; I found thie video on youtube of a SBC 350 running the 292H cam and it sounds amazing. I just bought a Holley 4778-4 700CFM double pumper to go with my new setup. I also am planning to change the rev limiter to 7000rpm. Also now that i own a welder i am considering buying a cheap set of long tube headers of craigslist and modifying them to fit my 240z.

Ok so I'm upgrading my SBC 350 a lil bit and had a few questions: First my car is a 1970 240Z with suspension is GC coilovers with tokico blue shocks and upgraded 1" sway bars in the front and as soon as i get the brackets welded a 7/8" in the back. I am running a built T5 out of a 1993 5.0 mustang connected to a R200 4:11 open diff. Wheels and tires are Rota RB's; 17x9 (-13 offset) front with 255/45/17 and 17x9.5 (-19 offset) rear with 275/40/17 tires. The car is 80% street and 20% autocross/strip. The car weighs in at about 2500lbs all included. I would like to have as aggressive a cam as possible while keeping it streetable. I am also looking to run power brakes but am willing to run a vacuum reserve is required. Chevy 5.7L SBC 355 4-Bolt main Block has been bored 40 over 882 heads (76cc chamber) Edelbrock RPM airgap intake Holley 600cfm carb New Comp 268H cam kit. flat top pistons Shorty Hugger Headers I am have currently bought the following parts to upgrade my motor: Patriot Freedom 23 degree Aluminum heads. (64cc chamber, 185cc runner, 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust, 0575 max lift) Edelbrock pereformer intake with JEGS liquid filled temp gauge MSD billet distributor MSD coil MSD plug wires Summit racing mutli spark ignition box with 5500rpm rev limiter. Aluminum water pump. I think i'll have around 9.75:1 compression with the new heads My Questions are: I would like to take full advantage of the new heads and i think a new cam will help me get a good bit more performance out of my motor. I have been looking at the cams listed below. Let me know your thoughts and if you know of any other cams that will gibe me better performance please suggest. Comp Cam 292H-10 292/292, Lift .501/.501, Chevy, COMP Cams Magnum Hydraulic Camshafts 12-213-3 - SummitRacing.com Comp Cam 286H286/286, Lift .490/.490, Chevy, COMP Cams Magnum Hydraulic Camshafts 12-326-4 - SummitRacing.com Comp Cam 305H 305/305, Lift .525/.525, http://http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-12-214-4/overview/make/chevrolet

thanx I'll go ahead and run a return line...sounds like it would extend the life of my pump.

I am running a SBC 355 with a 600 cfm Holley and am using a GP-4070 Carter competition series fuel pump with a Holley pressure regulator. Can i just cap the OEM return fuel line or do i need to actually run a return line?

added a lil fire protection device to the car....cause i dont trust my wiring.

Bunch of stuff can up at work n in life. So after an extended break i got back to working on the splitter. I got all the filler sanded down and marked the spots that needed more filler. I did not bother with the quality of finish with the inner edges as those parts will never be visible. I shot the splitter with some rattle can paint. Its not perfect but i think its good enough for my first attempt.