Zerrari GTO

I still have mine sitting out in my storage shed. I'll take a picture and try and have it posted here tomorrow night.

Are there not any factory brackets that will work?

Wagz- What can I say...I could not have done it without your help and your website to guide me along!

jmortensen: I measured the "mast" on my rotisserie and from the bottom (where it is welded to the circular plate) up to dead center on the pivot point is 37". This left me with a couple of inches clearance over the connecting rods between the two sides. Quote:Twoeightnine P.S Are you going to use a Reaction Eng. kit? -Do you mean the Velo Rossa kit from Reaction Research? If so, then yes thats the kit. The 280 shell is about 500lbs+. This rotisserie could handle a lot more than that. It's the unibody you have to worry about. If you start loading on suspension pieces and such while the car is suspended at the extreme ends you might tweak something. This thing is for local P/U if anyone is interested.

I had the same concern. I measured the width of the car and cut the mast(s) on the rotisserie long enough for clearance. I'll measure them when I get home tonight and post it here.

I've got the sub-frame connectors installed (thanks for the plans Pete), new floors in and everything sealed and undercoated. I welded-up this rotisserie in a few days and it has been invaluable for this process. The pivot points are adjustable and indexed (at 3 1/2" offset I could spin my car with one hand). Castors made it easy to wheel out in the driveway to work on (and watch people flip-out when they saw a car suspended). Anyway, I'm done with it and ready to start the body kit install. If anyone in my area is interested, I'll take $150 for it (material cost). It's fairly light weight and knocks down for transport. Shoot me a PM if you are interested.

Thanks Mike- I emailed a reply but I have never had any luck with anyone getting back to me from Craig's List. I hope this one is different.

That's a deal just for the large journal crank- esp. if it's forged. I wish I was close to Houston!

You can't hide a midget in the hatch of a Z!

With the price of classic muscle cars going through the roof, many vintage blocks are being snatched up at premium prices for restorations. There are still some good ones out there but you better be willing to move fast and spend the bucks ($200 is a deal from what I've seen).

I've gone through the information here and even posted an inquiry as to where to find my metal replacement battery tray that was not salvagable. All I got back was "put your battery in the back; it will take weight off of the front and you can get light weight batteries that weigh only a few pounds that will fit in the storage compartments behind the seats!" I researched and found sources for very lightweight batteries (I think around 7lbs.) So, that being said, why go to the trouble of mounting your battery in the back if it weighs only a few pounds and will hardly effect weight distribution? ....Anybody know where to get a metal replacement tray for the battery? I could fab one but would really rather have an OEM looking tray. Thanks!

Check with Speed Racer. He with a picture of his 327 tri-power have posted on this thread. It doesn't sound like he has had any problems with reving his setup.

What pistons did you use? I am going to be using L98 vette heads (58cc chamber) and I want to keep the compression reasonable; 9.0-1. I imagine I will need a dished piston to do this. Thanks!

Getting back to the carb/FI question. Another reason for going carb(s) instead of FI is purely for the sound caburetors make when they open up...pure heaven!

Holy smokes!!!

It's not a problem. Me and three of my friends picked up the shell of my 280 to mount on a rotisserie and it was easy. We estimated the weight to be about 500 lbs+ (227+ kilograms).