Zerrari GTO

Hey you two! Outta the gene pool!

Question: I am finishing up the sub-frame connectors and floorpans and would like to choose and install a fuel tank while the car is still on the rotisserie. I don't want a fuel cell and this LT1 tank could be an option for me but... -Can the internal fuel pump be used w/a carborated SBC(fuel press. decreased)? -Will it allow the installation of Ferrari GTO style dual exhaust or is it too wide? -Do heat shields need to be fabbed and positioned between the mufflers and tank and between the filler tube and exhaust? -What alternative tanks can I use? I want a factory looking tank that permits the filler tube to be positioned close to the stock location. One of the members here (74 5.0L Z) posted a photo of his during a thread discussing suspension (see: Sub-frame connectors and rear sway-bar clearance). His tank set-up looks like a nice clean install; I emailed him to find out what he had but got no response. Does anyone know what tank he has? -Mike kZ mentioned using the stock tank and relocating it to the center of the car to accomodate duals (see: Fuel Delivery-Fuel cell options to have external filling...??). Can anyone elaborate on this...Mike? I am a decent fabricator and welder-I just need to know what to start with!

...Flat black hood (with tach mounted on it), black aluminum louvered rear window, nice duals... Could be cool if done tastefully.

Do a search. This was just covered yesterday and probably a thousand other times.

That's the Hot Digity Dope, Baby! I mean Freshy Fresh! You know what I'm say'in!

Ah geeez, I never ever even got my donating status. What a jip.

T-5's have a tin identifying tag on the tail housing. The number on this tag will tell you anything you need to know. Go to http://www.5speeds.com/t5/index.html and on that page there is an identifier index. You simply plug in the number from the tag and it will tell you the vehicle, engine, year, if it's a World Class, etc. The website has all kinds of info about t-5's and all kinds of goodies for racing and rebuilding them. They even have live streaming video from the rebuild shop as techs work on them. I got my WC T-5 from a V8 Trans AM with the help of this site.

Yea, this is just slapstick stuff...I guess you guys aren't Three Stooges fans!

Just playing the song in that video (the first one) while driving could cause me to lose my license for a long, long time.

I have always believed in replacing a material with the same material but from what you say Vince, this sounds like great stuff. I'll definately try it out on some future applications.

Thanks for your help. I'll give them a call.

It still ain't gona hold like welding or rivets!

Make sure you cut out all the bad steel (cut out an inch extra if needed). then strip the surrounding area and paint w/Por15 as per directions. Rivet new steel plate in and fill over-lap w/ dum dum. Hammer edges down between plate and floor pan and reapply dum dum if needed. Prime and shoot w/top coat as per Por15 instructs.

Anyone?

I've heard from a few sources that Z's handle better w/out a rear sway-bar. That would be the easiest fix I've had so far on this project! By the way, what kind of fuel tank are you using-looks like a nice set-up. The mufflers look close...any concerns?

Thanks for the picture Joe. I second Mike's question. Did you weld nuts inside the SFC's or run the bolts all the way through and put a washer/nut on from inside the car? Also, does positioning the sway-bar in this way mess with the geometry of the bar? Thanks again.

I'm getting ready to section the struts on my 280 and was advised that 84-86 300ZX replacement cartridges worked well on a 1 1/2" section with Motorsport lowering springs. Did a search....didn't get what I needed. Is anybody using this cartridge? Any feedback would be helpful. Thanks

It's an extension of existing tax cuts. I don't know about you but a per child tax credit and retaining tax relief for married couples will definately stimulate my economy.

Joe, Pictures would really be helpful. Please post them here or email me directly as soon as you can. Thanks!

Thanks for the tip Bill, my floors have been removed so that may be an option. By the way, how do you like your spring/strut combo? That is the setup I have been leaning towards (with sectioned front strut tubes) and it would be helpful to get some feedback.

Thanks Dan. Now I can get on with the welding and quit scratching my noggin!

I am in the process of welding in sub-frame connectors on my 280Z and it looks as though where they tie into the rear sub-frame will block the path of the rear sway-bar. I am using Pete Paraska's plans illustrated on his website. I realize he has a 240Z. Can anyone advise? Thanks!

I read this post and many others looking for the easiest way to remove undercoating before I started my undercoat removal project. I figured I would update everybody now that I'm almost done with this little slice of heaven project. What worked for me was a combination of solvent, heat gun, rigid scrapers, flexible scrapers, 3M abrasive disks, wire brush, dynamite and weapons of mass destruction. In other words, there is no magic solution! It seems like each area required its own particular method to get the stuff off. I also think Datsun management must have been paying bonuses to whoever could put the most undercoating on a car the day mine was built. Anyway, my point is to just get in there and do it. Once you finally get started it becomes a kind of twisted quest to get all the gunk off your car. At the time of this reply I am welding in the sub-frame connectors and feeling a great weight has been lifted from my shoulders.

I've got my car down to the bare shell now and have started stripping and sanding the front end. My question is-are there any brackets I should save in the engine bay? The only ones I see that I know I will use is for the windshield washer fluid bottle and throttle cable. I want to keep the engine bay as clean and simple as possible so if I don't need it I don't want it. Also, what type of body filler should I use to cover unused screw holes in the engine bay? Thanks for any help I can get!

When I logon to this website and scroll down to the members online there is a (0|1) next to my logon name. Why? Thanks,