Zerrari GTO

I got my door done at a place called Econostrip. The guy who heads up the Georiga Z Club had his entire unibody done (at another chem strip place). He made a dolly for the body and they rolled the whole thing into the tank. Price is usually $2 per pound; my door cost $81.

My door hinges may need some help. On the lower hinges (the ones with the spring) the little round cylinder shaped piece of metal that the spring arm travels on is deeply grooved with some indents. These cause the door to sometimes pop when opening and closing the door. I assume these little pieces used to be round and the indentations are causing the "pop". Can these pieces be sourced to refurbish the hinges? Thanks.

I had one of my car doors chemically stripped to the bare metal to remove all paint, rust, grime, etc. The door came out very nice but now I need to know the best way of rust proofing the stripped interior of the door. How can I get to all the nooks and crannies inside the door. I was thinking about sloshing some Metal Ready around in there but I wanted to know if there is a better method. Thanks.

Quote from Boy from Oz "Change of topic, but very relevant to 250 GTO with twin REAR exhaust. Zerrari - I noticed elsewhere that you have, or intend to make, a front diff mount for twin exhaust. I am about to do the same. I have noticed this done elsewhere on HybridZ but it worried me that the two mounts had (apparently) been cut in a straight cross section in the middle and then welded. I think it might be a bit more structurally sound to stagger the section, the way A-pillars are cut and joined in a 'cut & shut". Any thoughts." Boy from Oz, To make the front diff mount fit you really need to cut a section out of one of them and then splice in the rounded part from another. This keeps one of the mounts pretty much intact. You could do this with one mount and cut out a section of steel pipe for the other rounded exhaust section. Once you have two mounts side by side you realize the way the mount fits is not symetrical so you can't simply cut them down the center and weld them together. My home computer crashed so my pics are not currently available but you can see a completed one on Pete's site: http://alteredz.com/exhaust.htm

My Velo Rossa kit does not come with rocker panels. I was planning on ordering a couple of sheet metal replacement rockers and welding them over the existing rockers to match up with the kits front fenders and rear quarters. Has anyone done it this way? I want to be able to remove the front fender (cheek panel); in other words I don't want to mould it in.

Speed- I'll bet you wish you had a dollar for every time someone asked you about those valve covers! I hate to break it to you Darth...no can get.

I'll be out of town...as usual. The weather is getting nice in Atlanta, maybe a little Z get together after the SEZ8? How does it sound?

No I haven't. You're little baby has always been parked with the hood open by the time I arrived at the meetings:).

Since I am doing the Ferrari re-body with a V8 I am going to run dual exhaust with some type of dual quad tip set-up. I've got an RX7 fuel tank mounted in the back which allows good access for duals on both sides (also added another cut out to the rear crossmember). My plan is to have 2 1/4" pipes, a couple flow through type mufflers (glasspacks) tucked into the transmission tunel like I have see on several Z's followed by a couple more near the back. My question is this: To give the car the proper "look" I should probably use a couple resonated dual tips (Monza/Ansa type). The resonated tips look like they would cause a lot of restriction and I've never heard these used on a V8 and wondered what kind of sound they created. Can someone please educate me on resonated tips and what to expect if I do use them. All feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I emailed Bob Hanlon at Halon Motor Sports (T5, Temec transmissions); he said that the ONLY Redline product that could be used in a world class T5 is the Redline ATF called D-4. The Redline gear oil, 75W90NS, will not lubricate the needle bearings in a WC T5.

Mayolives thanks for the information; your T5 is a non-WC so I need to be sure this will work in a WC T5. I pulled it up and the particular Redline you listed, (75W90NS), is GL-5 Gear Oil. Is this the type of redline gear oil everyone is using in their T5 (world class & non world class)?

I've heard several people recommend Redline oil for T5 World Class transmissions but I'm still not sure what type of oil Redline is. Is this ATF, is it gear oil (what viscosity) or something else. I know Dextron III or Moble 1 ATF is recommended but would like more information on Redline. Thanks.

I have a Target Master block with provisions for a dipstick on both sides. I figured I would put it on the passenger side since the brake & clutch stuff is on the drivers side but wanted to see if there are any issues for one side or the other. ...or I could do two chrome dipsticks! (bling, bling).

^^^Exactly!!!^^^

Somebody please shoehorn this into a Z! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Shelby-GT500-SVT-Engine-New-In-Box-Buy-Now-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ260083836096QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33615QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

^^^did you miss the picture of Chrissie eating ice cream?^^^ I thought that was the best part of the video.

Chrissie should stick to eating ice cream on a stick!

Here is the email I received regarding the MG latches: "Dear JP Thank you for your e-mail. I wish I could say yes on this one, but there are 999 key combinations and I doubt I could get our suppliers to check all their stock as the locks are individually wrapped. The lock does come with the washer and nut. Kind regards Dave Parker Mechspec " My feelings are with the other guys on this latch; I don't want to reinvent the wheel to make these work. I'll continue to look for Honda latches or use the 280z setup.

Here is what his email said: Dear Sir Thank you for your e-mail. I can supply the following:- 1. MG Trunk Lock $30.00 2. MG Trunk Lock $30.00 3. Shipping to USA $12.00 Total $72.00 I will email him back and get the rest of the details.

I like it...especially with an LSX engine.

You can find the MG buttons fairly easily. I found plenty of new replacement ones on ebay or you can try Victoria British: http://www.victoriabritish.com/ . A few people have said the MG button is larger and does not look as good as the Honda button...but now that I know they push instead of twist I may go this route. I emailed this guy: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB-GT-Tourer-Roadster-Lock-Set-2-Doors-1-Trunk_W0QQitemZ260081150161QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33648QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem and he said he would sell a pair of the trunk latches w/out the locks. He says there is a discount for multible orders so maybe we could put something together.

Me likey...a lot!

Yea, Larry said it had some bad rust problems and to stay clear of this one.

I've been trying find a pair since my last post on this thread but haven't had any luck. I guess I will go with the datsun handle and lock.

Ditto! I got mine off the rotisserie about 8 months ago. Can't wait to see pics.