Darius

hey lonerider do not buy the pemacool fan I have tried to use one in the past and they suck!! you want to get a blackmagic. The pemacools dont have a shroud wich makes a big diffrence. I even tried the 18 inch fan and still had overheating till I got the blackmagic.

Ya some people dont agree with the way I drive "cops" but I'm not an idiot, at least most of the time. I have been hittin the local tracks since I was 17 and have raced go karts and also have SCCA license. I know how to control the Z at least 99% of the time, not to say I haven't lost control of it before, because I have, a long time ago. I have been wrenching on it for 7 years and dont plan on wadding it up on a light pole or something. I totaled a 510 when I was 15-no license, so I learned my lesson early! As for tires I need some new ones on the z and think I will get some bfg r1 sticky's or maybe some yokahama a032r advans. I will be at the show this year for shure you will not miss me, look for the large crowd and the jet engine noise coming from it.he he he he!

that is funny that you mention the background music because I went to a spot I know of where the cops usually dont go, kinda in the middle of no where and there is this guy with a drum set practicing, and he wuold not stop, so I just did some donuts right in front of him, and he didnt even care, even though I was probably shooting rocks all over him, anyway that is how the background music came to be. If you want to know the specs you can go to the chevy v8 z tech board and look up 71 240z with 383 and D-1 procharger, Im not that fast at typing to relist all the specs. later

I guess I'm running somewhere around 600+ hp at the motor, I haven't got a chance to hit the dyno yet. My clutch has hooked up for ne around 99% of the time but after some good and fun abuse, laying rubba in third and fouth gear it did definatly slip on me. If it continues to slip I will definately be getting the mcleaod setup, where is the best-cheapest place to order one from and what is the price, that is one bad ass looking clutch. My car does not hook up at all, so i'm sure if I could nail it in second gear and hook up it would probabaly slip. I can downshift into 4th gear on the freeway and smoke the tires, but they are just 235-40-17 avs-intermediate's , I would hate to have put some huge flair's on to get some big tires, thanks for all the info guys!

well I have never ran a 11.20 at 132.I have only ran it with 8lbs of boost and 4 broken pistons and 235-40-17 yokahama avs intermediate tires, it ran 12.1 at 118. Now I have 15lbs boost, totally built motor,same tires and it just lays rubba!! On the freeway I can pull mt buddies R-1 which ran 10.60 at 134 so if I could hook up I'm sure it would run 10's. Even without the blower it ran 12.3 at 112. But the way it is right now it might run mid to high 11's at high 120's to 130 something. Fast enough. It is pretty cool laying rubber on the freeway at 80mph!!

Does anybody know of a better clutch and presure plate setup than the centerforce dual friction for a borg-warner T-56.I seem to be spinning the clutch sometimes.

Ya your gonna be worrying, i've been racing chris with his R-1 and it's been pretty close. He pulled me in the top of fourth gear but once I hit 5th it was dead even till about 140mph, so I think i could easily waste the TL. Bring it on, my car is running so bring your bike by and we will race up taylor.later

WELL GOT MY CAR RUNNING AGAIN BUT IT HAS BEEN RAINING AND I HAVEN'T HAD A CHANCE TO TAKE IT OUT YET, EVERYTHING SEEMS FINE. ATI SAID THE D-1 BLEW UP BECAUSE THE MISTER NOZZLE WAS TO BIG AND SPRAYING TO MUCH OIL??? SO THEY REBUILT MY OLD ONE WITH NEW OIL SEALS, BEARINGS, INPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY, IMPELLAR,TRANSMISSION COVER, MISTER NOZZLE, AND A NEW BACKING PLATE. WHEN IT FINALLY WORKS I'LL TAKE SOME VIDOES AND POST THEM HERE. LATER.

What's up. I'm running a 12 rib setup, and a spring loaded tensioner, so I dont think it could be to tight. My pulley alligment is damm near perfect and my crank pulley spins very straight. Intercooler is a spearco, just the core not includeing the tanks measures 27 1/2 by 6, it is huge!! As far as the oil line, I put it exactly where the said to put it in the instuction manual that I got when I bought the kit. The oil in the motor has less than 200 miles and I use a fram HP-4 filter which is a lot bigger than stock. I dont know why it blew up, I just hope ATI makes it right with me as I have spent at least $6000 between the first kit,the D-1 and pulleys and belts for the 600-b. I guess I'll just wait and see.

what's up blkmgk. No this is a brand spanking new D-1, the other one I blew up was a 600-b.I noticed a slightly different noise when I was going down the street when I first put it on, but figured it was normal,and it kept working for about 15-20 miles after.Basicly I was nailing it in third gear when it made made it crashing noise, I first thought it was the motor but when I got outside the car I could hear it was the blower which is the last thing I thought would break seeings how it is brand new and is supposed to be their race blower capable of 25lbs of boost+.I got it home and pulled off the first tube out of the blower and there was a lot of oil and small metal fragments, after pulling it off I could tell the bearing or the bearing support that supports the impeller has given away and caused the impeller to crash into the housing, exactly what happened to my 600-b but seems to be not as severe.I got roughly 2000 miles out of the 600-b and it held together, but as soon as I put the 15lb pulley onto it,it blew up,the d-1n is also running a 15lb pulley,I asked procharger about the d-1sc witch has a self contained oiling system but is said to have the same internal pieces as the d-1,maybe if that one blew up it wouldn't shoot a bunch of oil into my intercooler.I sent it back today and they said they could get to it in a couple days. I really don't feel getting the same thing again as I have little confidence in it, especially the same one.They say there is three ways to blow one up, not enough oil,had plenty of that,everywhere, overspinning it,I only rev to 6000, the oil return line clogging,there was no evidence of that,when I pulled it of and checked it no excesive oil poured out and the line was clear, if anybody wants to call them and ask them why there s--t blows up call 913-338-2886.

well I finally got my z going with the D-1 procharger. I have had alot of problems, first one of my paxton kamakaze fuel pumps took a dump, I dont recomend them to my worst enemy,they make alot of noise and dont pump very much, so I replaced it with an aeromotive pump which is bigger, quieter, and pumps more fuel,but I am still using one krapikaze.After all that I had problems blowing the hoses off,I fixed that by longer conecters and using hair spray on the tubes, it sounds funny but it works.I only have about 20 miles on the D-1. I have done a few tach runs on my favorite straight away and the car is crazy fast,I can only floor it in 3rd gear but it still lays rubba big time,it hooks up once I hit 4th gear and pulls very hard.Both me and my roomate chuck have 2000 yamaha R1's so I've had him race me and it has been very even, the fastest we've ran is 10.60 at 133 at sears point,but my car goes nowhere until 3rd gear so I know it could never run that time,but on the freeway, watch out. So every time I have driven it something goes wrong, this time racing chuck again the D-1 that I thought was so bad ass blew up on me with probably less than 20 miles WHAT THE F----K I'm going to fly to kansaass where the make these things and ring somebody neck to get out my frustrations. I dont know why this happened,my setup is perfect, I've talked to them numerous time and made sure I'm doing everything right.My advice dont ever buy a blower, take the 3 grand and invest in the motor and you will probably make just as much power with less heat less things to blow up,they sound cool look cool and sometimes make your car go very fast,but for me has been a bunch of problems, from blowing up 2 blowers and one engine, I wish I never bought one, but now I'm far to deep to turn back now, I guess I'll box up the D-1 and send it back to kansas with one of my dogs turds in the box. $2250 for 20 miles, not worth it, Luckily it is fairly easy for me to take it out,as I have done it so many times, but if I had a late model camaro 93-up I would have certainly shot myself by now as you can't even see the blower, or even half the motor. I guess I'll update when I talk to the morons at ATI, They better be very nice and understanding, as I'd hate to have to buy a plane ticket!!!

you can order them from motorsport auto in l.a i'd give you the number but I have lost my catalog, you can also get them directly from nissan but they have a big chrome ring around them and look pretty hoopty. The motorsport ones are more of a flush mount kit and look way better and are around 55-60 bucks, the nissan ones are like 150-160.I think motorsport auto is in orange county if you want to call information.

well me and cahant finally got together and took some more photos showing the new blower and intercooler setup, and some of the rear end-r230. check it out at htandmore.com/pics/240z71 or at top of the page at cahants post, they came out pretty good.

WHHAAZUUUP!!!! I finally think I have every thing I need from ATI to complete the blower instalation.I have a few other problems I have to attend to on the car first. One is the cooling issue.My car has a Griffen aluminum radiator 26 by 18 and normally runs cool,but if its 90 degrees out and im in traffic the temp will climb and I have seen close to 240.I have 2 10 inch fans up front and a 18 perma cool in the back.Now that I have a 27 by 12inch intercooler siting about 6 inches in front of my radiator which might restrict air flow, combined with 15lbs of boost makes my motor hot.I'm going to get rid of the 18 inch fan and run 2 in the back also,and try to increase air flow by removeing some metal from around the radiator and making a scoop that will direct air to the radiator.If any body has any tips please let me know,I just cant seem to get a fan to pump enough air and there is no option of running one off the motor.When I'm going over 30 to 40 there is no problem.I'm also having header problems.When I first got my shorty headers they were fine but only had 1 5/8 primary and 2 1/4 collector.I had a buddy put on 3 inch collectors and have had problems with them leaking now because they are warped at the top flange. Does any body know of a company that makes 1 3/4 primary tube 3 inch collector shorty headers. I know full length is better but for ground clearance and many other things in the way I have switched to shorty's and am not worried about any H.P loss. Work and demanding girlfried "you dont spend enough time with me" has limited my wrenching time but I hope to have it going in 2-3 weeks, and am working on getting some more pics online.See ya in the rear view Darius

WHAAZUUUPP !!! Ya that psantel guy got me going, butt thats all part of the game,Talkin **** about each others ride.I,m 26 years old, and I've been working on and racing datsuns since 15.First I had a 510 and 4 years later bought my z .All work on the car is done by me including paint.Of course I had my local machine shop do the machineing and building of the motor and they stand by it 100%,and reassured me of my comp ratio.When some guy wants to start to tell me what my car has I can get a little pissed,if he wants to ask me and get the real facts,thats OK.I've put it behind me,and will discuss something way better. The 300z twin turbo R230 limited slip that actually always lays posi even when putting down big power, makes the stock unit look like a peanut.I've always had R200's and when welded up 'locked' they were pretty strong exept for the half shafts, I must have broken 7 shafts in 6 months.Other v-8 Z owners I have talked to have had better luck than me but they had automatic transmissions whice are easyere on the drive train and definitly dont drive like me,I can drive very good,as I have logged roughly 20 track days in my 510 and my Z, at sears point,thunder hill,laguna seca,and also raced go karts,which is pretty crazy, and very competitive.Needless to say I'm usally very hard on my car and my shafts kept braking causing me some very scary moments.One time getting on it hard out of a turn in 2nd gear the road had a little dip which put downforce on car and bottomed out the suspension causing both shafts to grenade,needle bearings everywhere and procede to bang the **** out off underneath my car and take out both brake lines, remember no down shifting because my half shafts were no longer connected,thank god for an E brake,and a long enough strait away coming out of that turn.Mainly I broke them at sears point drag racing sometimes just one would break and could simply take it out at the track and drive home with 1 because the rear end was welded,can you say one legger 400hp V-8z, but it got me home.Enough of that something had to change so I went to Auto Gator in sacremento to check out what the twin turbo rear end looked like and to see if I thought it could fit in my car.It looked good, real good,its huge and has big c-v joints on the inboard side.I scored the unit with c-v joints and drive shaft just to use the flange,with the 3:73, ratio works perfect with the 6spd, $375 talk about 130 mph at 3000rpm,and with the charger it pulls in 6th gear, I'm pretty confident I have hit 160, and I know it will now go much faster I just dont know what will happen if I try to go faster, I just keep pictureing my car making like a 5000hp drag boat and flying into the air.I read in car n craft you only need 500hp to go 200mph in a 86-92 camaro,if that is the case my car should have the power to do it,but the Z is a very small car, and I know even with my rollcage and 5 points belts, I would be dead for sure if crashed at that speed,I have crashed very hard before and did a month in the hospital,hope to never crash that hard again,at least not my Z, maybe in a rental car when can be so much fun when you take it to the open track day and wear out the tires till there chunks missing out.Anyway you want to put a R230 in your z, very easy kinda pricy .You have to simply drill 2 more holes in the mustach bar and mount it at thr correct hieght,the higher the better so your joints won't have as xtreme of angle when you car is lowered.You will notice the drive shaft flange is off to left I believe if you are looking towards the back.You have to make sure your drive shaft will clear because the flange is quite large and has 6 big bolts holding it together,I think one half shaft is slightly shorter.Then you can weld on brackets of your choice from the rear mount of diff that hold the control arms on to the round holes with bushings in them pertruding out of the side of the diff.Now you have to make the C-Vs connect to stock stub axle,here's where it gets pricey because most likely you could do everything in the garage and should be easy and correct with the right measureing.But doing the rest requires the use of a quality drive line shop.I went thru concord drive line service which the owner russ let me keep my car in his shop while he built the shafts so he could take measurments.He is a very cool guy and always treated me very nice and let me use his tools, almost unheard of and I had just met this guy. He built my drive shaft,out of 3 inch tube and fit the R230 flange,the 300z c-v's turn into a splined axle,which has to be cut and welded to fit a much much larger spicer universal joint which also has a 4 bolt pattern just much bigger so an adapter plate was made to convert to the stub axle.I have banged many gears ,alot of launches,and ran more power and have had no problems.Anyway me and cahant will get together and take some more pics maybe of the blower/intercooler,or me just getting crazy sideways as this is what me and my car do best.I'm out

Here are some more facts for all those that like to presume things,and state false facts about my 240.There is a cross over tube in the intake manifold in plain sight in the pics,and houses a return fuel line.It is a 93 computer which is speed density,not that obd 2 r2d2 crap.Non drilled and lightened COLA cranks go for $700+.Stated specs say 1000hp 1oooorpm.Obviosly im not trying to go any where near those numbers,and the same goes for the splayed main caps,but when building a blower motor especially you can never go wrong making it too strong.5.7 inch rod 30.over 3.75 stroke.2 boost gauges,one before intercooler one after in manifold.Im not worrying about emmisions my car is a 72 and exempt from all that B.S.Cam is a LT1 276 hr-14 at .050 int 220 exh 230 gross valve lift .510.comp cam springs 986-16.Only 1 fmu. How many do you need? Fuel pressure gage autometer ultralight.My stock motor at the rear wheels with headers and single 3 1/2 exh put out 300hp and 325 torque.With 8 lbs of boost should see well into 400s.With new cam complete rebuild going to all billet parts,pumped out to 383 bigger inj 58mm TB manifold sized to fit it 15lbs of boost bigger intercooler, dual 3inch mandrel bent 2 chamer flows.Reburnt chip for 42lb inj,you think I'm going to see less power than before.I'll say like that guy told Cahant "your nuts"

.So who wants to know about that BLACK,BAD ASS ,BLOWN, INJECTED,GASSED,NOS POWERED, 5000HP, TUBULAR SWINGARM 240Z. Actualy a lot of the stuff I hear about my car is not true, no big deal . I have owned the car for about 7 years now,and no it doesnt have tubular control arms. I ordered them from arizona z car and he told me 2 weeks and after 3 months he still hadnt delivered. I did have a NOS bottle in the hatch but it was never finished because the blower was giving me so much trouble.With the swing arms I ended up with new factory pieces. The car has a 96LT1 motor with 6spd, 1990 300z twin turbo rear end with 3:73 gears, ground control camber plates all the way around with 3 degr -camber in front and 2 in the back.It has a 1 1/8 bar up front with a 7/8ths in the back. I had a perfectly running Lt1 till I put on a pro charger kit with the 600b.The car ran good for about a week and then it blew a head gasket #8 cylinder.I pulled both heads just in case there was damage to the other gasket,there wasnt.Back on the road for one more week and blew the gasket again in the same spot,again I replaced both gasket,I felt like I was working in the pits of a top fuel team.Even when I was blowing gaskets I still was running 30lb inj for 8lbs of boost with paxton fuel pump and FMU which raises fuel pressure from 35 to 80, procharger told me that 22lb inj were more than adequete.The car ran ok but not like it did before it first blew the head gasket.I drove the car to LA Z show about 750 miles round trip for me.When I left the show I laid rubba down the street totally forgeting about the 2 motorcycle cops I had seen earlier at the show.When I was done layin rubba I look in the rear view and seen the red and blues. Before we left the show my friend put a piss on ford sticker on my back window.When I finnally pulled over the cops were extremely mad at me as I had layd rubba first thru third right in front of them.After talking to the officer he informed me both he and his buddy were dy hard ford fans and both owned musatags,I tore that stupid sticker off my car, kissed some major ass and got off with a seat belt ticket,even though me and the cop knew I was wearing the belt. About a week after returning from LA I could tell my motor was hurt, as it was blowing smoke and oil out the valve cover breather. I took the blower off which only had about 3000 miles on it,and tore down the motor.It had 4 broken pistons.Before the blower the motor had 300 rwhp and ran 12.3 at 112. I only ran the car one day at the track with the blower,but it was already hurt.It ran a best of 12.1 at 118. It hooked up 10 times better without the blower. My 60 foot times were 1.8 without 2.2 to 2.4 with it. You can only go so fast with 235/40/17 yokahama avs. I rebuilt the motor with a COLA crakshaft capable off 1000hp or 10,000rpm, it is 4130 rod throws have been drilled,it is a very nice crank for $1000.I Installed splayed 4 bolt main caps eagle rods,venolia blower pistons which lowered comp to 8to1.I also o ringed the block and put copper head gaskets. Comp cams recomended a cam that was suitable for my application,and I put on a 1000cfm throttle body.It also has crane gold roller rockers/1.6 ratio,and stud girdles,but the heads are stock.I ran the motor for a couple weeks to break it in with 30lb injectors. It felt faster than it was when it was stock and it only has 8to1 comp.Once I felt it was broken in I put on the 600b with a new 12 rib setup for 15lbs of boost. I had to put 42lb inj, I also ran another fuel picup to my fuel safe pro cell,2 paxton pumps 2 6an fuel lines into the fuel rail ,one on each side,I got a SPEARCO intercooler measureing 28by12.I thought it was dialed in. I could finally make it so it was to rich.I adjusted it properly after a few runs and was ready to really get on it.1st Gear is useless,so is second third gear hooks butt will still smokem if you want. The car felt really fast. After about four times of gettin on 1st thru 5th the wimpy little 600b blew up with 3000 miles on it. I must say that dealing with ATI procharger can be very FRUSTRATING!!!. They wanted $1400 to fix,1900 for new or 800 for used,and my blower had no warranty because of the 15lb pulley,if you ever buy a 600b only run 8lbs and buy the $35 warranty, if you want to run big boost look for the D series. After a lot of haggling they finally sold me a D-1 with a bracket and belt for $2200,to bad after all that talking with them about my LT1 they sent me a D-1 with a mustang bracket and no manual or instuctions at all. I tried to have them fax me some instructions butt they said it was a hole book that they couldnt fax and that they would send it to me, when I called the next week to check up the GIRL I spoke to had completly forgotten about me. I still did not know I had a mustang bracket all I knew is that it looked totally diffrent than the 600b bracket,the guy I spoke to next time told me that he could fax me, and when he did I realized that I had the wrong stuff.He sent me the LT1 D-1 bracket but no belt tensioner and no belt. I have had the D-1 for a month and a half and still do not have what I need to finish.Maybe this week I'll get the tensioner and the belt.I thought I'd set the facts straight about my 240,Oh the valve covers are fitted by using the GM center bolt adapter kit.Any questions you can e-mail darius_khashabi@hotmail.com