qwik240z

I spoke to the guys at Johns Cars and they now have the LS1 Motor and Trans mounts ready. Here is the info they sent me: LS-1 INFO QUEST 240-260-280 Z Rocket fueled zip for your first generation ZCAR, the 240, 260, 280 Z (not ZX). John’s Cars ZCar components matched with the all aluminum GM LS1 V8 and overdrive transmission define AWESOME! This 100% bolt-in kit does not rely on the stock Datsun cross-member motor mount towers alone for strength. There is no welding required or recommended. Everything is totally bolt-in. Cutting holes in the car are not necessary as with other swaps. Suspension modifications are not needed. Details: Stock 77 280Z/L28 W/ LS1 & T56 LS1 W/Roll-bar & strut braces Total Weight: 2,800 2,830 2,895 Front Only: 1,400 1,400 1,415 Rear Only: 1,400 1,430 1,480 Neither braking nor handling are affected due to the minor weight change (30 pounds more on the rear). Fact is that V8 ZCar has a lower center of gravity than the original inline Nissan 6. You will, however, want to upgrade both the braking and suspension if you are planning on “competing†with the car. We don’t offer those items and I don’t have any preferences or suggestions who to use - there are many excellent vendors for you to choose from for those items. Check online Z groups, like http://www.HybridZ.org. I hope you will read this information carefully. There is good info here that should cover 99% of your questions - If it misses one please send an email to zcar@johnscars.com. More than 25 years of V8 conversions have guided not only this project but the information you need to make good decisions. I do conversions in house on local vehicles only, not hot rods - full smog, emission legal in Dallas. You can make an appointment to visit JCI - Monday-Friday 8-6. You may note that I repeat some things - I don’t have an LS-1 kit for the 280ZX (small block kit is available - see the website). I don’t have anything (nada) for a 300ZX. WHY - the cars are different - takes different parts - parts I have not designed. If I do build parts I will send out info to those who send an email, please do not call - I do not have anything to tell you and I can’t design stuff being a parrot on the phone. I don’t need any guinea pigs - I have both 280 and 300ZX cars in the yard that maybe I’ll get to someday, sorry if that does not fit your instant gratification society, the customer is always right and more power to the consumer. My answer for that is I’ll be happy to refer all comers to you as soon as you have your fire breather smoking the skins. Performance on the mule is in the 12s on street tires, so if someone can beat you I’ll wager it is not a daily driver that idles ripple free. There are production line vehicles that are worthy foes - and they are in the 6 figure category, it all depends on how you want to spend it. The LS1 is GM’s state-of-the-art Hi-Po motor, coil-on-plug, fuel injected and fully computer controlled. You’ll even maintain the OBD2 driveline diagnostics. Convert your Z to this technology that GM spent years and hundreds of thousands of dollars to develop for their factory high performance vehicles. Best of all, you don’t have to reinvent the wheel to do it. You will have to “edit†the GM computer to your rear axle ratio, remove the speed limiter, and maybe some horsepower tweaks! ChipsbyAl@aol.com did the ECM for the prototype, I also use and recommend Street & Performance or Howell Engineering. John’s Cars (JCI) built this LS-1 prototype in 2002 using a 1998 Camaro pullout. Summer of 2003 I took it apart to analyze the effort and the thousands of miles of road and track experience. What did we change? A synchro in 5th gear! JCI is now ready to offer components to you. Building blocks are what you can buy from JCI. This is not a kit and it is not “blacksmith plansâ€. It is a group of critical components, designed to work together, that will allow the experienced do-it-yourselfer to successfully complete this installation. It eliminates “do-oversâ€, second guesses and 50-50 hindsight decisions and; “most of all†the basket case syndrome that befalls the cheapest way. Don’t call to pump us for free info - the answers and information are here on these pages - 25 years of hands on experience designed this V8 installation. I have no desire nor need to explain what is proven works. This same experience is why I am very specific in telling you: If you want to design your wheel be my guest - without my input. You can go online for all the free commiseration you could ever want. The building blocks we offer are as follows: Front mounting set: This is a five piece bolt-in set that properly locates your LS-1 in the ZCAR engine bay on GM mounts with clearances for headers and manual steering rack. You don’t get to guess where to drill the final holes - yes there are parts offered for various cars that have you make the decision and then it becomes your problem. My mounts are 100% bolt-in, painted, and with all the necessary hardware and don’t require (or allow) any guesswork. I provide a manual that details removal of the Z driveline - car prep for the V8 and the install of the components you purchase. I do not provide this information without the purchase of the front mounts. Purchase of the front mounting set is required to be enable you to purchase any of the other components. You can purchase the other components later as your budget dictates. Mounts are on the shelf for immediate shipping. Front mounting set & hardware, plus the paperwork, freight paid - $295.00. Transmission crossmember and rubber mount: The original Z transmission mount will need to trimmed flush so you do have to drill holes for installing the new mount. Available for either the 4l60E or the T56. Crossmember, rubber mount, and hardware, freight paid - $135.00. Driveshaft: A complete, balanced unit with slip yoke, ready to bolt in. This is an all GM driveshaft with full size u-joints at each end, bolts to Z diff, freight paid - $265.00. Speedometer Drive Unit: Converts the electronic output from the GM transmission into a mechanical drive for the Datsun stock speedometer. 3 wire hook-up, made in the USA, new cable included, freight paid - $285.00. Vital Liquids Set: Upper and lower radiator hoses, clamps, adaptors, tap for the Datsun oil pressure sender, plus two water temps (GM FI and Datsun dash gauge). This will save you days of time! Shipped with other components - $85.00. Radiator: We’ll recore your old radiator with a new 4-row super duty high efficiency core. Ship us your unit and we’ll return it prepaid to you ready to install - $275.00 to your door. Headers: (Not available for CA) 4 tube block hugger style – 16 gauge – custom made in the USA specifically for this application. They clear the steering, starter and oil filter and maintain good ground clearance. Includes two oxygen sensor bungs. These headers are not CARB certified so they cannot be sold in California. Freight paid - $385.00. More exhausting details: I modified a set of Sanderson Headers for this car. I didn’t try to stick with the stock GM manifolds and it does not appear that they will work without modification. If you have not seen the stock manifolds pipe flange - one look should explain the interference. Street & Performance also offers a set of universal headers if you don’t want to spend the $385.00 on my custom fit headers. Your muffler man will make the rest of the system for you. AC compressor mount and drive: New aluminum high efficiency compressor, made in Japan with serpentine belt drive. I do not supply or make the hoses - too many variations, but most hydraulic hose or AC shops can make you a set when you drive the car to them. The GM factory AC compressor will not clear my mounts so I designed a custom unit. Package includes all mounting brackets and hardware, freight paid - $450.00. High volume fuel pump: New – mounts in same location as stock 280Z unit, freight paid - $195.00. Tachometer calibration: We will calibrate your analog Z tach to read the revs and keep your interior stock. Cost is 75.00 but if you order all the JCI parts above the tach calibration is your BONUS - no charge. You don’t have to buy headers if you are in California to qualify for Bonus. It is strongly recommended that you find a complete Camaro or Firebird (CFB) donor vehicle. Usually you can buy an entire donor cheaper than the boneyard will charge you for the pullout. You need the engine, transmission, full wiring harness, ECM, accessories and brackets, radiator fans, etc.. Get it all at once and save time and money in the long run. The stock GM alternator is retained rather than the Datsun unit. It would not be up to the task of the fans. I use the stock CFB fans - they directly plug in to the engine wiring harness and therefore are computer controlled - is strongly recommended, very easy to mount and those notes are included with mounts. Transmission choices are the 6-speed (overdriven) T56 manual trans or the computer controlled 4L60E overdrive automatic. Automatics are a slightly easier swap and with the mountains of torque the LS1 generates it makes for a more driveable car. You can “light-em up†whenever you want and the 30% overdrive reduces noise, improves mileage, and lengthens engine life. The ZCAR factory automatic shifter is okay and there are aftermarket units if you prefer. Of note – in this installation the T56 manual install does not require enlarging the transmission tunnel or modifying the shifter hole. I used a factory GM clutch master cylinder. I understand it is best to keep the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) as it reduces spark knock, reduces emissions, and allows the computer to signal more ignition advance which translates into more power. The headers have the required plumbing to retain the EGR. AIR – air induction reaction – is not included with the headers. AIR functions the first minute or so of operation and helps complete combustion and light off the catalytic converters quicker. The LS1 air pump is electric and controlled by the ECM. You will have to verify what is required for local emissions - I can not know what your locale requires, please do not call me. Side notes: These components are for the first generation Zcars only. The first generation is 240 - 260 and 280 Z - not 280ZX. We do not have anything LS-1 for the ZX, we do offer a small block V8 kit for all of the cars before the 300ZX. ZX to LS-1 models may be offered later - send email to zcar@johnscars.com and request ZX info - please do not call, it is a waste of time. These components will allow you to mechanically install the drive train and cooling system in approximately 20 hours. It does not include any super detailing of the engine bay, paint repairs, or electrical connections work. Class takes time - what you see on TV mechanic is not real time. If your Z is rusty, don’t even start. Find another body shell that is rust free. The torque developed by this drive train pushes the limits of the Z unibody even when it is in good condition. The stock Z differential and half-shafts have proven adequate for this application. To get yourself started toward the ride of your dreams fill out the order sheet, sign it, and send it in along with certified funds. Remember, freight costs included within the continental USA – Hawaii and Alaska will be slightly higher due to higher shipping costs. Tax is due on any sale in Texas. Headers can not be sold/shipped to California. If you have questions I did not address here please send an email to zcar@johnscars.com. Thanks for making it to the end - they’ll be seeing your tail lights adios with the JCI LS1 ZCar.

Happy Holidays, I have been reading more info to try and educate myself and I am still unsure of which motor to install into my 240Z. As I have stated before I did swap a V-8 into my 510 so I am familiar with swaps. I have read both the JTR Z car swap manual and the JTR TBI/TPI swap manual. I have also read the HP LS1/LS6 performance upgrades book. I know I am comfortable with the non FI swaps but I am intrigued by the FI motors. I am considering an LS1 motor. I would prefer a manual trans car so the T-56 would be my choice. I do have access to an F-body LS1 and T-56 from a 2001 Camaro. I have located a shop nearby that specializes is street rods and they just helped a customer complete an LS1 swap into a Hot rod. I spoke to them and they feel confident they can help me with any areas of the swap I can't do myself. I know that a few of you have done this swap and I have the following questions: Does the John's Cars Z kit include the mounts for the LS1 motor and trans? Does it place the engine far back to the firewall like the JTR kit? Does it lower the motor using spacers like the JTR kit? Will the A/C compressor clear everything mounted in it's stock location? Will the alternator clear everything mounted in it's stock location? Will the F-body exhaust manifolds work in the 240Z or will I need headers? Does anyone have a website set up showing documentation of their LS1/T56 Swap? Has anyone used this company for their wiring? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33553&item=2449736605 Any other info that you could provide would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for all of your help and opinions.

Is there a website that shows the weights for the LS1 vs LT1 vs SBC w/ alum. heads? I did a search but it didn't find the info I need.

Guys, I found this website that has speedo converters that convert the electronic signal from the trans to a unit that drives the speedo cable. $150 for the unit. Not bad if it works. I will do more research. http://www.terf.com/SpeedChangerMechanicalPage.htm This would allow me to keep the stock guages and install a T56 and saves money. Cool! Sorry to the wife but I really like to shift! The daily driver is an automatic (2002 Maxima SE) I'll let you know when I find out more.

Dan, Thanks for the response. I will look for the info on the electromechanical converter. It sounds like it may be an option. I would love to see some pics of the guages you talked about mounted in a Z. I was hoping to go with the stock guages but I guess I would consider changing them out. I would want all of the guages to look the same so I guess I would have to spend a bundle on them. Looking at some of the electric Autometer guages a nice speedo is about $200 so around $600-$700 on guages was not in the budget but if I buy the guages instead of the modified tailhousing that was in the budget it's not that much more. I am already getting sucked into that "while I'm at it" syndrome and I haven't even turned a wrench yet.

Thanks for cutting me some slack. I try to follow the rules when I can. Thanks for the advice and comments so far. I think the ZZ4 might be a good choice. It seems that to get that much power from the LT1 or the LS1 they will need to be modified in some way or another. Several list members have contacted me with motors for sale too. I would like to know more about the T56 trans. The JTR manual shows that the tailhousing needs to be modified to drive a speedo. They sell a modified tailhousing for like $450. Are there other ways of doing this? I would really prefer a manual trans over an automatic but I want an overdrive unit and the T-5 will not handle the abuse of over 300HP. But if I install an auto the wife could drive it (NOT!) and maybe she would like my car project more. She hates the 510 but she thinks the Z is pretty. Thanks Again! David

Sorry, They will drop the weight of a 240Z about 150-200 pounds.

Guys, GM made 2 versions of the 215 motor. A Buick and an Oldsmobile. From 1961 to 1963. They installed them in Buicks, Pontiacs, and Oldsmobile models. Pontiac got the buick version. The blocks were the same but the pistons, lifters/pushrods, and heads were different. In 1963 Olds came out with a Turbochareged version that made 215HP. That was a big thing at that time as 1HP per cubic inch was alot back then. In 1964 GM decided that aluminum was too expensive and ditched the 215 for the Buick 300. For the 1st year (1964) the motor was a cast iron block with aluminum heads. In 1965 they switched to cast heads as well. In 1965 GM sold the rights to the 215 to Rover. The V-8 motors Rover builds today are still based on the original 215. You can build a 5.0 liter version using the Rover 4.0 block (crossbolted mains) a buick 300 crank and buick 300 aluminum heads. Here are 2 websites of companies that specialize in building High Performance versions of these motors. http://www.aluminumv8.com http://www.lanocharacing.com You can judge for yourself if they are reliable. I have revved mine to 6500 with no problems. They are very lightweight. They would drop the weight of a 240z about 15-200 pounds depending on the trans you use.

<HTML><FONT SIZE=2 PTSIZE=10 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Hey guys, I am the owner of a very clean 1972 240Z. I bought the car this past summer and my plan has been to install a V-8 into the car. The car currently has an L28 with a 5 speed and a fully adjustable MSA coilover suspension with urethane bushings, Tokiko 5 ways, sway bars, and strut tower bars.& It has Nissan Green stuff brake pads and shoes and SS brake lines. I have had it to the track and have autocrossed it and it handles very nicely. See it here: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3083&ppuser=4628 I am familiar with V-8 swaps as I have swapped an all aluminum 215 CI Olds V-8 into my 1972 Datsun 510.(see it here): http://britishv8.org/swaps/510v8.htm I have purchased and read (several times) the JTR V-8 Z conversion manual and I feel comfortable with the swap. I have also purchsed and read the JTR TPI/TBI swap manual although I am not nearly as comfortable with that. I have also spent countless hours looking through the posts on this and have spoken with other V-8 Z owners, (Thanks Pete) My goals are to have a nice weekend cruiser and track/autocross car that will be: (not in any particular order) 1. Reliable (most important) 2. Powerful (275-300RWHP)& 3. Somewhat Quiet (need to be able to enjoy the stereo) 4. Under hood "WOW APPEAL" when you pop the hood people say "WOW!" 5. Air conditioning (too much humidity here in the summer) 6. Still deciding on manual vs. automatic transmission (prefer manual) 7. No major modifications to the body or chassis I want to purchase a motor already done. I do not want to have to build motor. I am considering the following motors: 1. LS1 with T56 6 speed. I am a little scared by the computer and the fuel injection as well as the trans. modifications to drive a speedometer and I feel there is little "WOW APPEAL" I really like the looks of chrome valve covers and simplistic wiring. The Edelbrock Intake that switches this motor to Carb is intriguing. I have found that I can buy a complete low mileage motor with the trans, and all needed accessories for around $4000. 2. ZZ4 Crate motor I like the ZZ4 because it is new and it makes 355hp, has aluminum heads, etc., but I will need to get a trans. A/C compressor, all other accessories, etc. Cost is around $3600 for the motor, another $1000 for the trans. and the other stuff. Can give this one lots of WOW APPEAL! 3. LT1 motor (1993 -1997) I don't know much about these motors but they are readily available around here. I don't think they have the power I want. I am hoping you all on the list can offer some opinions as to the best motor for my goals and also as to going with the manual trans vs. auto. My mechanical skills are ok but not expert. I did put the V-8 into the 510 without much help and modified many areas of that swap and had parts fabricated for me.I have never welded before. I have never rebuilt a motor before.& But I do have good attention to detail and I can read a wiring diagram and follow instructions.On a 1-10 I would say my skills are a 6. Time is not an issue as I have other cars to drive and I have dedicated garage space for the project. Cost is of some concern but I have planned on it costing between $7000 to $10,000 to complete the swap. I feel that I can do it right for this budget. Your thoughts, comments and opinions are welcomed on this. Please don't write to me and say "your Z is so nice you should leave it the way it is" I have heard that many times but I want to do the swap. I need more than 150RWHP Thanks in advance for your help! David </FONT></HTML>