qwik240z

That hood is beautiful. I felt the same way once I pulled the L28 from my Z. Point of no return. How come you aren't posting on the Chevy V8 Forum??

Do a search for JTR or Johns Cars. Both of them makes kits for the 240Z-280Z cars. The 240Z was producred from 1970-1973 so if you want a pre-73 the 240Z is the one you need. There are some differences in the early 240Z cars vs. the later ones. Early cars, 1970 to early 71, are called series one cars. check out: http://www.classiczcars.com for more info. good luck!

If its a 1970 model it is probably a 510. If it is a 710 then yes an L20B will swap in. There are many internet clubs that cover the motors in those cars. The Datsun 510 email list(the Bluebird List) is a great place to ask your questions. You will need to subscribe (register) but they won't ask you to "do a Search" before they will answer your questions. The 510 is called a bluebird in Japan. You can register by following the info here: Bluebirds Mailing List -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Subscribing In order to join the Bluebirds mailing list, send an E-Mail message to: listserv@bluebirds.datsun510.com with no Subject, and in the body of the message include the following: SUBSCRIBE BLUEBIRDS Firstname Lastname where Firstname and Lastname is of course, your real name. You do not need to include your E-Mail address. The Bluebirds list will automatically use the address you send the E-Mail from. Bluebird list Admin: Derek Garnier Bluebird Web Page: http://www.datsun510.com - Mailing list FAQ, charter and

Looks really nice. Do you plan to cut a hole in the floor of the hatch area to allow for access or will you just drop the tank if you need to repair or replace it? What kind of baffle system do you plan to install in the tank to make sure there is alway fuel at the pickup point?

Decided to start a new thread so we don't detract from the other ones. Has anyone used this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7906025099&category=6763

The new system sounds great. Lets see some pics!

Dale, I also sent an email to John at speartech last week. I think you have it all covered. I guess you are not going to use the S & P harness you bought on eBay?? What is the chance you will make another relay board for me too? Keep us posted on the harness

Ok. I understand your frustration. The search feature turns up too many responses and it is too time consuming to go through it all. I will try to help you out as I went through the same stuff several month before you. I started on the LS1 quest in January of this year. I now have an LS1 motor sitting in the engine bay of my 240Z. I have used JCI components to do this. Estimated time of completion is September. There are shortcuts to using the search feature that will make your life easier. I just tried this one and it seems to work well. Go to the Chevy V8 forum section and click on the previous page link at the bottom. Go back through the pages one at a time and scan through the topic titles. If you go back no more than 10-15 pages you will see alot of LS1 topics. They will provide you with most of the info you are looking for. Here are 2 good ones to check out. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=32085 http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=30611 Another good search feature is to look up all posts by a certain member. Members like Phantom, MAS280, etc. will turn up a ton of good LS1 infor. I will also try to help you off list if you want. Email me your specific questions and I will do my best to help: qwik510@aol.com See pics of my project at the links here: http://www.cardomain.com/id/qwik240z http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3083&ppuser=4628 Good Luck!

Sounds cheap to me too. The Sanderson headers for the Z car LS1 are $700 or $860 if you want them coated. $200 I wish!

I'm using John's cars components too. If you want an easy way to get the drivedrain located properly in the car this is the way to go. I have my motor in the car and am well on my way with this swap. Do a search for "Project Silver Bullet" or visit the website below to see pics. LS1 is the way to go. Good Luck!

We own a 94 Cadillac with a Northstar motor. I have looked at it and I believe it is too wide but maybe it will fit. I changed the plugs and plug wires in it yesterday and that was not fun. The back plugs are hard to get to (FWD) and you have to remove the coils to change the plugs. I will stick to the LS1. It makes much more power, many more aftermarket goodies available and I know it fits. But I would love to see someone try it. Best of luck!

I'm sure if you put it on eBay it will bring a good bit. The trans is probably worth $800-1200 and the motor $1500-$3000 as a guess. Did you get my email? Call me about Friday.

I worked on the car again this weekend. Tried to get the trans mount installed. Minor problem. The JCI trans mount will not fit into the 240Z. The trans mount was designed for the 280Z. The 280Z trans tunnel is wider then the 240Z and also the frame rails that the trans mount attaches to are different on the 240Z and the 280Z. The frame rails are much bigger on the 280Z. I spoke to John at JCI on Monday and he is going to mock up a 240Z roller he has to create a new Trans mount. He said he would get right on it and he was very apoligetic for the problem. He has been great to work with. Very accomodating. I plan to pull the motor back out and replace the cracked oil pan. I can get a new one from the dealer for $160. I will spend some time detailing the motor and the engine compartment as well as starting to run the fuel lines and get the fuel system going. Check out the pics at the link below. I will continue to update.

I too live in Maryland (Potomac, where are you?) and I am currently installing an LS1 in my 240Z. I have a 2002 Maxima with a VQ motor and the LS1 is no wider than the VQ. I measured my LS1 Block and at the widest point it is 18". I believe it will fit in the 350Z. The LS1 is probably the best choice for your car as you will get reliability, power, and probably reduce the weight too. You can take a Camaro or Trans am motor, add a cam,new springs and retainers, headers, an air intake system and some tuning and get 400RWHP like MAS280 did. If you need it to remain emissions legal, it can be done as Briguy did with his in California. You can get a supercharger to add another 100-200HP too. If you want to come and see my motor or if you need more info on the LS1 please email me at: qwik510@aol.com I would love to help you and follow along on your project! See this link for pics of my project: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3083&ppuser=4628

Joey, Glad to hear it's almost done. Most of the $$ mistakes can be resold on eBay without too much of a loss. Keep the updates coming.

That is a sweet setup. I am sure you will be very happy with it. I considered buying it myself but decided to go with the LS1 instead. Since that setup comes with everything you need, 3-4 weeks is plenty of time. As for the dyno, I would predict you will end up with over 300rwhp no problem. Gary builds quality cars. His 510's he has built are famous. Good Luck. If you work hard you can have it running again in a week. Just don't fall into the "while I'm at it I might as well" syndrome.

Did you buy Savage42's setup? The swap can be done in 3-4 weeks if you have the time to put into it. The basics can be done in 20-30 man hours of work the little details are what takes time. Good luck and keep us updated.

Mike, Still not bad numbers. I bet you will hit the 10's with the old cam and some more tuning. Is John's motor stock other then the headers and the air intake? Any videos of the runs?

Thanks for posting the pics, MAS280! Someone needs to show me how to do that!

I took off from work early today and my son and I decided to try a test fit of the motor. Got it all hooked up to the engine leveler, hoisted it up and dropped it in place. It's in there. It fits very nicely. The JCI kit is great. Sure makes it easy. It sits low and far enough back and allows clearance for heater hoses, stock alternator location and maybe even modified factory exhaust manifolds. I Will see about that tomorrow. I did run into a few small hangups along the way. I have noted about them below. Other then that it is not hard. The hard work is still ahead of me. Next I will get the tranny mount in place. Might be this weekend before I can do anymore work on it. I will keep you all updated. I have posted some pics at: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3083&ppuser=4628 You will not be able to view the new pics until they get approved by the administrator. Thanks for everyones help so far. You guys on this list made it all possible. Notes about the LS1 JCI install: 1. If you are going to do this swap, do not use the far back exhaust studs to hook your chains to. I remembered Joeys advice on this too late. The chains will interfere with the firewall and the hood latch mechanism. I had to pull it back out and relocate the chains to the next studs forward. I also had to remove the coil packs so they would not get damaged. 2. My hoist would not slide under the front suspension without jacking it up a bit, I placed a bottle jack under the front crossmember so they would clear. 3. You really don't want to do this without an engine leveler. Those things are worth the cost. I don't know if you can do it without one. 4. You will need to be able to jack up the trans. while the engine is being lowered and it will need to be able to slide back once it is jacked up a bit to allow the motor to move back more. I used my floor jack with wheels and it worked fine.

I know there is a difference between the Corvette and the Fbody oil pans but is there a difference between the different year Fbody oil pans? On my 2002, the oil filter is located towards the back on the drivers side. I thought they were all like this but then I saw the pics of the LS1 in the Z32 and his oil filter is close to the front of the motor on the drivers side. I don't know if he relocated it or if his is a different year LS1 or if his oil pan is from a truck/other vehicle. See it here: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=27524&highlight=z32+ls1+pics Also, Can these oil pans be welded if they get a crack or do they need to be replaced? Thanks for the help!

The UPS man came today! I Got the engine leveler. Now it was time to move the LS1 from the detached workshop in my back yard to the Garage. Once I moved it from the workshop, I noticed some oil on the ground under where it had sat for the past few months. Uh oh! Got it hooked up to the hoist and lifted it up and it seems there is a small crack(3/4") in the center of the oil pan on the bottom. Boy that sucks! I guess that when they placed it on the pallet the must have hit a nail or something. I still plan to test fit it this week but I now need an oil pan or I need to pull this one and have it repaired. At least the hoist works well. My friend Vince is coming over on Thursday to help me test fit it. If anyone has an F body LS1 oil pan, please let me know.

That's pretty interesting. Amazing what you can learn from this list. I am fairly certain that Gary's car will be Faster than mine. Our goals for our projects are different. My goal is to build a weekend cruiser - once in a while autocross/track day car. Reliable, comfortable, and quiet. I plan to keep the LS1 motor stock. (at least for now) I don't need a super fast 10 second car. I will be happy (I hope) with a mid 12 second car that will idle ripple free and be quiet enough to be a sleeper on the street. Not too many 12 second street cars around here. I know the HP fever may creep up on me as I get used to the power so things may change. But change is good.