qwik240z

I didn't want to steal anything away from Gary as he had named his project first but the guy that bought my L28 setup said in an email to me: " that car will be as fast as a silver bullet when you get it on the road" and I kind of liked the sound of that so I decided to give it a title. My engine leveler is due in today. Test fit the LS1 tomorrow.

I just measured mine. At the top where the heads bolt on it is just under 18" Near the bottom where it juts out for the starter it is about 3/4 tp 1" wider.

Time for an update on the project. This week was busy at work so not much was done on the Z car. But here it goes. I passed the POINT OF NO RETURN! Today I removed the factory 240Z Transmission mounts that are welded to the tunnel. I used an angle grinder with a cut off wheel on it to remove them. I guess there is no going back now. I pulled the factory 240Z tach, boxed it up and sent it to John for calibration. I also sent him a 280Z tach in case the 240Z unit wouldn't work with the LS1. The JTR manual says it won't work and you must install the guts from a 280Z into the 240Z housing but John seems to think it should work fine. I gues we will know soon. I had a hell of a time trying to remove the tach as the previous owner installed a dash cap and it wouldn't allow the tach to come out. I ended up removing the dash cap (yes I destroyed it but the car came with an extra one brand new in the package when I bought it) I will install the new one once I finish all the other stuff. I also stripped down the LS1 and removed the stuff that I will not need. The A/C compressor, the power steering pump, the stock exhaust manifolds, the existing motor mounts, etc. Most of these items are currently on eBay (shameless plug) so if you want them check it out. I hope to test fit the motor this coming week. Check out the updated pics at: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3083&ppuser=4628 That's all for now. Have a great weekend!

Mike, Out of curiosity, how much did they charge for the dyno pulls? I hope my 2002 LS1 does better than that on dyno.

If anyone is interested, I have a 240Z under dash unit and the control switch for sale. You will still need the compressor, and all the other stuff under the hood. Email me at: qwik510@aol.com Not really trying to sell it but if someone needs it.

I bought an engine hoist today. The local Pep Boys has them on sale this week for only $119.00 It is a 2 ton hoist. Boy, it sure is heavy for one person to unload. I spent about an hour and a half assembling it this evening. The legs are able to fold upright by pulling a pin and standing it up and inserting a pin. In that position it doesn't take up too much space. Good quality. Nice welds. Good hardware. See it here: http://pepboys.crossmediaservices.com/pepboys/circular_browse_listing_detail.asp?storeid=2314917&pagenumber=1&rapid=59737&listingid=-2098130698& On sale til Saturday.

I tend to agree. My parts were also just thrown into the box with some newspaper on top to fill the gaps. The driveshaft sloshed around until it punctured a hole in the box as did the side of the trans. crossmember. The box was too flimsy for such heavy parts and should be a heavy duty cardboard. I know that the LS1 Z stuff is not his primary business but I think the demand will grow as we get these cars on the road. As I said before the quality and design of the parts are first class. They should be protected with better packaging materials. I would have gladly waited a few more days to receive them if he needed more time to get them properly packed.

I wish he had powder coated mine for me before I installed them. I will be pulling it all out once everything is fitted properly so maybe I will send them back for an exchange.

As many of you are aware, I am installing an LS1 motor into my 240Z using the JCI LS1 Z car swap components. I have named my project "Silver Bullet". This is the first update. I will try to document as much as possible for others that may want to do this swap too. I have been posting pictures of the swap so far at: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3083&ppuser=4628 I started the actual swap on May 1st. My son and I took the car for a final drive, came home and let it cool off and then began. The L28 motor, trans, exhaust, radiator, etc. were removed that day by following the removal instructions in the Datsun service manual. The motor actually sat in the engine bay until the following week until I could go and rent a hoist to remove it. May 6th rented a hoist and out it came. I built a crate and shipped off the old Drivetrain to it's new owner. May 10th I decided to go with the JCI LS1 components and ordered them from John. Today, May 19th I received the mounts from JCI. (see my earlier post if you want info on the quality of the parts provided by JCI) http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=34089&sid=21779e4e9798667fe39d6c8e85aa4e2a This evening I started the install. I got the motor mounts in the car and properly bolted in. Everything was very straight forward and fit very nicely. The only problem I ran into was trying to attach the drivers side motor mount to the T/C housing. This requires you to drill 2 holes in the T/C housing to bolt the back side of the mount to it. I had to remove the T/C rod to get the bolts to sit flush. With the rod out of the way, a little gentle persuasion with a hammer and everthing fell into place. I need to find the new steering coupler and steering rack bushings I bought and install them. I have decided to get the motor and trans bolted in and make sure everything fits properly then I will pull it all out and paint the engine compartment. Well it is now midnight here so I will end this for now. I wil be updating this as I go so stay tuned.

Actually, they are nothing like the JTR stuff. They are not spacers that are intended to lower the crossmember like the JTR stuff. The are actually stiffeners that are used to strenthen the stock motor mount towers. They are bent to conform across the top of the tower and then down the side and over the crossmember between the crossmember and the framerails. Imagine a "Z" shaped piece of metal that the top of the "Z" would bolt to the top of the tower, the side of it follows the side of the mount tower down to the crossmember and the bottom of the "z" would slide between the crossmember and the frame rails. As for the Pictures, I was asked not to post them as John spent alot of time and money doing the R&D for these and he doesn't want the "cheap guy copycats" to have easy access to his designs. I really can't blame him. If you look at this link below you will see pics of Joey's car. Study the pictures carefully and you can see the tower strengthing place installed as well as the motor mounts and how they attach. The drivers side in particular. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=32085&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=40

I also did a search but there are so many hits it is impossible to sort through it all. Please help make it easier by responding to this post. Thanks!

What structural reinforcing is needed so my 240Z doesn't get twisted like a pretzel when the LS1 is installed? Any help would be appreciated.

The UPS man just came with my box of JCI LS1 motor mounts, trans mounts and other components. First observations: The quality of the components are first rate, The welds are clean and done nicely. The design is well thought through. These will allow a bolt in installation with minimal cutting and/or modifying of the Z chassis. The motor mount design adds strength to the existing mount towers on the Datsun crossmember. There are pieces (tower mount brackets) that mount between the existing crossmember and the frame rails to increase the structural rigidity of the mounting area. The design will keep the thin walled Datsun motor mount towers from twisiting from the torque of the LS1. On one end the pieces slip in between the crossmember and the frame rails and bolts up to the same location where the existing crossmember bolts up using longer bolts. It will lower the crossmember about 3/8" as that is how thick the metal appears to be. On the other end it bolts up to the motor mount towers using the hole where the original motor mount would have been bolted. The Drivers side motor mount has cutouts that allows the steering rod to slip through the mount. It attached to the original LS1 motor mount on the engine side. It bolts between the mount tower and the T/C rod housing on the frame side. On the passenger side the entire mount is custom and all parts are supplied. It attaches to the tower mount on the frame side and a new plate bolts to the engine. The trans crossmember is unusual in it's design. It is a strong, sturdy piece that looks like it will bolt to the side of the frame rails. The Driveshaft he supplied is excellent. It comes complete, ready to bolt in with the proper slip yoke, full size Chevy style U joints with zerk fittings, and the proper companion flange to bolt up to the Datsun differential. The hoses and all mounting hardware are top notch too. All the bolts and smaller parts were sealed in a strong plastic bag. Nicely packaged. The only negatives would be the quality of the paint finish on the mounts. The finish is just ok. The paint appears to chip easily and some of the parts were chipped on arrival. It appears that they were painted without being primered first. I may decide to have them powder coated. Also, the box arrived with 2 holes in it. Nothing was missing but the packaging could be better. Overall, it appears to be an excellent product and I am very happy. I will take some Pictures of them and get them posted soon.

Phantom, I had similar issues with my 240Z on a recent track day in March at Summit Point Raceway. I have stock 240Z brakes with new Porterfield R4S pads up front (probably not fully seated) and stock rears with green stuff shoes, silicone brake fluid, stainless braided lines and the brakes were adjusted and bled before the event. The first 2 sessions were ok but sessions 3 and 4 I noticed considerable brake fade towards the end of the 20 minute sessions. By the last 5 minutes of session 4 I had almost no brakes at all. In the first 2 sessions I was able to carry 110-115MPH by the end of the main straight and still brake in time for the turn. By the 4th session I had to keep it down to 90-100MPH to be able to brake in time and on the last lap I probably only hit 80-85MPH as I was scared of running into the wall of tires. All this with the L28. I will also need to upgrade my brakes once the LS1 goes in. Let us know which big brake system you decide to go with. For your type of car, I agree with Gary. I would rather have too much brakes than not enough. Especially if you plan to add a supercharger in the future. The unsprung weight doesn't matter as much with a multi purpose car like yours.

What structural reinforcing have the rest of you with LS1's in 240Z's done ?

I spoke to John at JCI yesterday. He is not a rude person as others might have experienced. He is just busy. I guess now that he has sold a few LS1 kits he is starting to realize that the potential for more sales is good. He is very responsive and helpful. He had received my order for the components and he emailed me to let me know that he was processing the order. I called and asked him if he would fax me the install manual and he did it no problem. I have read it and although it is not as clear as it could be I know I can follow it and get the job done. I noticed on Joeys pictures that the paint was chipping on the motor mounts. Would it be a good idea to have them powdercoated? I can't wait to receive the stuff and get started. He will be shipping it out today so I shoud have it before next weekend. I will start now by cleaning the engine compartment and moving the brake line, etc. If any of you were detered by previous posts about his lack of customer service give him a try. He doesn't have alot of time to waste but if your questions are consise and to the point he is very helpful. One more vote for JCI!

I have been tracking him since January. He is using many different email addresses and he is using other peoples eBay ID. He currently has an auction on eBay that I am the high bidder on When I see his auctions I bid them up to $100,000. so no one else will be the high bidder. I tried to do it on his yahoo auction but he cancelled my bid and blocked me from bidding on his items. Maybe some else could bid it up to help same other LS1 enthusiasts. His current auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2478166671&category=33615

I have evaluated my swap and the time required to get it on the road and I have decided that I too will use the JCI components for my swap and I ordered them today. I am sure I could have fabricated the mounts but it seems that the JCI stuff is a no brainer and I will have enough to keep me busy with the fuel system, wiring, exhaust, etc. I already miss having the car to drive so I want to get it back on the road sooner than later. I ordered the front mount kit, trans mount kit, driveshaft, speedo drive unit, vital fluids kit and the A/C kit. I have a 4 core radiator already and I will wait to see if I will go with headers or maybe be able to use exhaust manifolds from another LS1 equipped vehicle. The Hummer and the GTO manifolds look like they may fit. Once the motor is in the engine bay I will measure and see how much space there is. I have also decided to install the 4L60E auto trans that came with my motor. If I am unhappy with it, I will swap to a 6 speed later. I have posted pics of the old motor and engine bay at the site below. I will continue to update with more pics as available. Thanks for everyones help so far. All of your input helped me decide on the JCI kit.

Joey, It's looking awsome. Mike, Thanks for posting the pics.

BEWARE! Big time scam. This guy has listed this same motor on eBay more the 5 times under stolen ebay id's. Same exact text and photo. do not send him any money!

He sells lots of them. The reserve is like $750 if you want to bid. I know it's steep but you get what you pay for. With the description of you plans a new block just might be the way to go. Best of luck!

Mike, New LS6 blocks on eBay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2477324078&category=33613 buy it now for $850 Better block for you hi po motor and new so no problems like an unknown used block.

Update: Rented a hoist ($25) and got the motor out today. Thankfully no damage to the car. The end of the trans did get hung up on the edge of the brake lines at the bottom of the firewall but I saw it was snagged before it did any damage. Since I have the hoist I might try a test fit of the LS1 tomorrow if I can make some time. Next step, I will start to clean up the engine bay and decide if I will paint it to match the car or just redo it in black. More pics posted soon!