qwik240z

1st off, welcome to the list. As an east coast 240Z owner I agree that your should buy a RUST FREE CAR! Before you start asking alot of questions on this list please be sure to use the search feature. The list members will chop your head off if you don't try to find the info via search before you ask questions that have been answered in the past. Now that that is out of the way, my suggestion is to find the cleanest 240Z you can for your budget. When I searched for my 240Z, my goal was to find a car that was mostly a renewed/restored driver that had the suspension/brake upgrades I wanted and then I could just pull the drivetrain and do the LS1 swap. I found a super nice California car that met most of my needs. As for budget. I paid almost $9000 for the car and have invested about $2500 more into it before the V-8 swap has begun. I have recently sold the current drivetrain for $2300 and will be pulling it soon to ship it to the new owner. I didn't want to have to paint the car or restore the interior, etc. Take your time and find the right car for you. Best of luck!

Joey, Glad to here it's moving along. I had a feeling the trans would be a problem. From what I have been told the trans tunnel on the 280Z is wider than the 240Z so I don't know if I will be able to make it work with the auto.(Mas280 what did you have to do in the 240Z?) The diff you built sounds great. I can't wait for you to drive it so you can feel how the 3.54:1 ratio works with the motor and trans. I have an R180 LSD with the same ratio that I am hoping will live through the abuse of the monster torque the motor puts out until I can find an upgrade. . I guess it's time to scour the JY's to see if I can find an Infinity for an R230 upgrade. Did the alternator clear the steering rack and everything OK? I can't wait to see some pics of the trans mount. Again, thanks for paving the way for us. Keep the updates coming!

mc, Welcome to the list. What ever you do, make sure you start with a RUST FREE CAR!!! The east coast is not the best place to find rust free Z cars. I looked for over a year for a rust free car. Mine is from California. Take your time and find the right car to start with. It will make your project much easier.

Joey, It's looking great. Did you have to make any mdos to the trans tunnel to make the auto fit? How is the shifter location? More Pics, More Pics. I am leaning more towards this kit now that I have seen your install. Thanks for sharing.

Joey, One more thing. What year is your Z? Thanks!

Joey, Sounds great. It's good to hear that it is going in relatively smoothly. You mentioned a trans adapter. Is that to drive the speedo? Please, Please, Please (I don't like to beg) take pictures. If you don't have a digital camera go buy a disposable one. You can have it developed onto a disc. I will even chip in to pay for it and I think that others interested will too. Try to docummet the process for us that follow the trail behind you. Thanks for all of your help.

Is the torque tube somthing that JCI made? Does he offer it in the LS1 kit?

Joey, Did you get the motor in the car? How is it going? Please give us an update. Thanks!

I have a set of 99 LS1 stock manifords that I just had powder coated if interested.I'll take 150 for the set + shipping.I payed 150 just for the coating and even have the heat shealds coated.I never installed them. I tried to PM you about these but you didn't get back to me. Have the flanges or anything else on these been modified in any way other than the coating? Was it powdercoating or ceramic coating like "Jet Hot"??

I own both the JTR Datsun Z V8 manual and the JTR TBI/TPI swap manual. I have read Both of them several times. They offer good info on the swap as well as info on adapting the trans to drive a speedo, exhaust systems, fuel systems, cooling systems, etc. They are well written and provide most of the info in terms that a moderately knowledgeable person can understand. I guess I still want to know what you meant when you said that "Johns manual is not the greatest" . I am still highly considering using the JCI kit and I want to make sure that a person with my level of skills will be able to understand and follow the manual. Seeing that the cost of the Sanderson Headers are so much ($700) the JCI kit is looking more attractive. I wish I was closer to your guys so I could come and see the LS1 Z cars upclose but I guess I will have to live with the photos and info you provide for which I am extremely grateful. Best of luck with the install on Sunday, Joey. I'm sure it should go smoothly. And with Mike close by you have extra help. Please try to document as much as possible for the rest of us and post some pics asap. Thanks!

Joey, I would love to see what it cost to for your project so far. Please let us know. Also, you can set up an account with the classiczcars.com to post pics. http://www.classiczcars.com What do you mean by "Johns manual is not the greatest"?? Thanks for paving the course for use with the JCI kit.

How much are the Sanderson headers????

I've got a cable modem and it was fast. maybe 2 minutes at most. IT IS WORTH IT!

Sorry! I spelled Adapters incorrectly. I type faster than I think.

I saw these on eBay and I wonder if they will help with the Z car install. They seem similar to the JTR set back plates. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50454&item=2466139120

Joey, Glad to hear there is another JCI LS1 in the making. I hope all goes smoothly with the install this weekend. Let us know if you have any problems with the Sanderson headers fitting with the motor in the JCI position. How much are the Sanderson headers, anyway? Are you using an Auto or manual trans.? Please try to document as much as possible of your swap to share with the list. We all need your help. Best of luck!

Incredible video Mike! Your reaction times are looking great! The car launches really nice. Thanks for sharing.

Gary, I wasn't trying to minimize what you had said either. You raise very valid points about supporting those that support our hobby. I guess I am used to the 510 community where so much info is readily available from other 510 owners because so little support is available from the aftermarket. It seems that with the handful of LS1 swaps completed already the info will start to roll in and someone will come up with an easier and/or better way. You have been a big help to me so far with this project. Your input (along with others on this list) helped me decide on the LS1. Thanks to everyone who helps support our habit, err hobby.

Sorry the last message came out wrong. I guess I need to learn how to use the quote function properly and preview my posts. Here it is again corrected. Phantom wrote: "David, Minor correction. John won't sell his other components if you don't get his engine mounts. His mounts don't require that you use all the other stuff but they are required to make his other stuff work. I have evaluated the layout and both the alternator and AC compressor could be mounted in different locations. The advantage of this layout is that one is a stock location and by placing the AC compressor where he did we were able to use the stock accessory drive components, including the stock serpentine belt. " I wrote: Phantom, Could the A/C & Alternator stay in the stock location using John's motor mounts? Phantom wrote: "The transmission mount will allow you to run dual 2.5" exhaust if that helps. It's harder with the 4L60E than the T56 but it works. The engine mount brings the gearshift up about 1/2" forward of the stock location in a 280Z. If you can use that as a reference for your 240Z then glad to help." I wrote: That does help some. Do you know how far below the floorboards the trans mount sticks out if at all? Phantom wrote: "The biggest thing about the components is the amount of work you don't have to do. He uses a recored stock radiator so there is no fabrication to do there and I'll definitely vouch for its effectiveness when used in conjunction with the Z28 fan shroud and fans. That's the other thing - the Z28 shroud and fans only require a small amount of trimming to fit like they were made for the Z radiator. His vital fulids kit gets you the hoses you need for radiator & heater hook-ups. You can source those yourself no real problem - it just will take a little time." I wrote: I already have a 4 core Z radiator so that is a plus. So is the fact that the fans and shroud will fit nicely as seen in your pics. I think the price for the Vital fluids is fair (as are most of his prices) considering how much time it took me on my 510 V8 to find the correct fitting hoses. Phantom wrote: "The headers are headers. No big deal. But they do come with the 02 sensor bungs. You can cut up the stock exhaust manifolds a bit and move your steering arm slightly and make the stockers work." I wrote" If I have to go with headers I guess I can make the trade for more HP vs. quieter ride. I do have a problem with the A/C though. I read in the LS1/LS6 performance book about all of the trouble GM went through to isolate the A/C from the other accessories in order to reduce the noise and the vibration from the compressor. Also in the stock location the A/C compressor runs on it's own belt. We only use A/C her for about 3 months and it would be easy to disconnect that drive belt for the rest of the year and for track events. Not to mention that the engine bay looks alot cleaner with it tucked down low (Not saying your engine bay doesn't look Great. It does) And it is a GM part that is readily available if something goes wrong. Phantom wrote: "I've really tried to not come across as a salesman for his stuff but, since I'm the only one with very thorough first-hand knowledge of it, I will attempt to clarify any issues. Anyone can PM or direct email me any time with questions. If you are in the DFW area I'm even willing to meet and let you look at the car." I wrote: Do you know of any other completed LS1 Z cars using Johns kit? Have any do it yourselfers completed his kit? Phantom wrote: "One other item. John does come across on the phone as rude. I've been to his place many times and you just have to understand the literal hundreds of calls he gets from guys that just want free information. He also has a very dry sense of humor that can be mistaken for rudeness. I had to learn that one myself. If you give him the benefit of the doubt you'll find him to be a very knowledgable guy and, at least in my case, a good friend. " I wrote: I don't really care if he is rude or not. I just want my LS1 to work well and do everything I expect.

Savage 42and list, I am all for supporting the guys out there who helps us. The kit that Johns cars makes is the only LS1 kit out there now. I even feel that for the money the motor mounts are priced fairly. ($295) I just am not sure that I want to have to make all of the changes necessary to use their kit. It would require that I purchase a new A/C compressor and relocate it in the engine compartment. It would also require that I use headers and I would like to retain the stock exhaust manifolds which can't work with their kit. Also, they will not share pics of their parts or details of things like if their trans. crossmember allows enough room for single or dual exhaust,how much ground clearance, etc. And their test car was a 280Z and I have a 240Z and some of the LS1 Z list members have discussed different motor placements affecting the shifter location. I understand that as soon as they do post some pics someone will try to copy them and they probably want to recoop some of their investment in this project before that happens. It just makes it very difficult to know if their kit is going to be better for my needs in the long run. Guys like Cyrus, Maichor, Jeromio, Briguy and MAS280 have all made different mounts and they all seem to work for their cars and each one required different modifications. I know that Phantom is very happy with the work they have done and from the pics I have seen and their reputaion I am sure the products are high quality. But since you need to use all of their components in order to make it work together they should really provide a complete kit with an installation manual to include the other stuff needed including wiring, fuel system, etc. The other kits they sell include this info but they have not gone the extra mile to document this info and provide it to us in a complete step by step method as their SBC install kit and Jag kits do. Since John's cars is the only game in town for LS1 Z kits I just want to know my options. Besides, how many Johns cars LS1 Z cars have actually been built besides Phantoms? If I have to figure out all of the other stuff on my own (with the help of this list of course) I don't know if it is worth the extra expense of buying a new A/C unit and a set of headers at a cost of $815. plus the $295 for their motor mounts for a total of $1110 when I could have a motor mount crossmember fabricated ($200-$300) buy some corvette mounts $100-$150 and be able to keep the stock items I want to keep. I am not trying to build a V8 Z car for $2000 and I don't consider myself cheap. I have a budget of $20000 for this project including the purchase of the car and so far I have spent over $15000 and all I have is the car and the new LS1. I really believe that I can finish this car for the remaining $5000 or so I have budgeted. And I can add to that the proceeds from the sale of my current motor and trans if I am running over budget. Savage42: you and I have been discussing this project of mine of almost a year so you know that I have been researching and planning this and trying to do it the right way. I just want it the right way with the things I want it to have. I am stepping of my soapbox now. David Below is a list of the items that Johns cars sells for the LS1 and the prices for anyone interested. LS-1 INFO QUEST 240-260-280 Z Rocket fueled zip for your first generation ZCAR, the 240, 260, 280 Z (not ZX). John’s Cars ZCar components matched with the all aluminum GM LS1 V8 and overdrive transmission define AWESOME! This 100% bolt-in kit does not rely on the stock Datsun cross-member motor mount towers alone for strength. There is no welding required or recommended. Everything is totally bolt-in. Cutting holes in the car are not necessary as with other swaps. Suspension modifications are not needed. Details: Stock 77 280Z/L28 W/ LS1 & T56 LS1 W/Roll-bar & strut braces Total Weight: 2,800 2,830 2,895 Front Only: 1,400 1,400 1,415 Rear Only: 1,400 1,430 1,480 Neither braking nor handling are affected due to the minor weight change (30 pounds more on the rear). Fact is that V8 ZCar has a lower center of gravity than the original inline Nissan 6. You will, however, want to upgrade both the braking and suspension if you are planning on “competing†with the car. We don’t offer those items and I don’t have any preferences or suggestions who to use - there are many excellent vendors for you to choose from for those items. Check online Z groups, like http://www.HybridZ.org. I hope you will read this information carefully. There is good info here that should cover 99% of your questions - If it misses one please send an email to zcar@johnscars.com. More than 25 years of V8 conversions have guided not only this project but the information you need to make good decisions. I do conversions in house on local vehicles only, not hot rods - full smog, emission legal in Dallas. You can make an appointment to visit JCI - Monday-Friday 8-6. You may note that I repeat some things - I don’t have an LS-1 kit for the 280ZX (small block kit is available - see the website). I don’t have anything (nada) for a 300ZX. WHY - the cars are different - takes different parts - parts I have not designed. If I do build parts I will send out info to those who send an email, please do not call - I do not have anything to tell you and I can’t design stuff being a parrot on the phone. I don’t need any guinea pigs - I have both 280 and 300ZX cars in the yard that maybe I’ll get to someday, sorry if that does not fit your instant gratification society, the customer is always right and more power to the consumer. My answer for that is I’ll be happy to refer all comers to you as soon as you have your fire breather smoking the skins. Performance on the mule is in the 12s on street tires, so if someone can beat you I’ll wager it is not a daily driver that idles ripple free. There are production line vehicles that are worthy foes - and they are in the 6 figure category, it all depends on how you want to spend it. The LS1 is GM’s state-of-the-art Hi-Po motor, coil-on-plug, fuel injected and fully computer controlled. You’ll even maintain the OBD2 driveline diagnostics. Convert your Z to this technology that GM spent years and hundreds of thousands of dollars to develop for their factory high performance vehicles. Best of all, you don’t have to reinvent the wheel to do it. You will have to “edit†the GM computer to your rear axle ratio, remove the speed limiter, and maybe some horsepower tweaks! ChipsbyAl@aol.com did the ECM for the prototype, I also use and recommend Street & Performance or Howell Engineering. John’s Cars (JCI) built this LS-1 prototype in 2002 using a 1998 Camaro pullout. Summer of 2003 I took it apart to analyze the effort and the thousands of miles of road and track experience. What did we change? A synchro in 5th gear! JCI is now ready to offer components to you. Building blocks are what you can buy from JCI. This is not a kit and it is not “blacksmith plansâ€. It is a group of critical components, designed to work together, that will allow the experienced do-it-yourselfer to successfully complete this installation. It eliminates “do-oversâ€, second guesses and 50-50 hindsight decisions and; “most of all†the basket case syndrome that befalls the cheapest way. Don’t call to pump us for free info - the answers and information are here on these pages - 25 years of hands on experience designed this V8 installation. I have no desire nor need to explain what is proven works. This same experience is why I am very specific in telling you: If you want to design your wheel be my guest - without my input. You can go online for all the free commiseration you could ever want. The building blocks we offer are as follows: Front mounting set: This is a five piece bolt-in set that properly locates your LS-1 in the ZCAR engine bay on GM mounts with clearances for headers and manual steering rack. You don’t get to guess where to drill the final holes - yes there are parts offered for various cars that have you make the decision and then it becomes your problem. My mounts are 100% bolt-in, painted, and with all the necessary hardware and don’t require (or allow) any guesswork. I provide a manual that details removal of the Z driveline - car prep for the V8 and the install of the components you purchase. I do not provide this information without the purchase of the front mounts. Purchase of the front mounting set is required to be enable you to purchase any of the other components. You can purchase the other components later as your budget dictates. Mounts are on the shelf for immediate shipping. Front mounting set & hardware, plus the paperwork, freight paid - $295.00. Transmission crossmember and rubber mount: The original Z transmission mount will need to trimmed flush so you do have to drill holes for installing the new mount. Available for either the 4l60E or the T56. Crossmember, rubber mount, and hardware, freight paid - $135.00. Driveshaft: A complete, balanced unit with slip yoke, ready to bolt in. This is an all GM driveshaft with full size u-joints at each end, bolts to Z diff, freight paid - $265.00. Speedometer Drive Unit: Converts the electronic output from the GM transmission into a mechanical drive for the Datsun stock speedometer. 3 wire hook-up, made in the USA, new cable included, freight paid - $285.00. Vital Liquids Set: Upper and lower radiator hoses, clamps, adaptors, tap for the Datsun oil pressure sender, plus two water temps (GM FI and Datsun dash gauge). This will save you days of time! Shipped with other components - $85.00. Radiator: We’ll recore your old radiator with a new 4-row super duty high efficiency core. Ship us your unit and we’ll return it prepaid to you ready to install - $275.00 to your door. Headers: (Not available for CA) 4 tube block hugger style – 16 gauge – custom made in the USA specifically for this application. They clear the steering, starter and oil filter and maintain good ground clearance. Includes two oxygen sensor bungs. These headers are not CARB certified so they cannot be sold in California. Freight paid - $385.00. More exhausting details: I modified a set of Sanderson Headers for this car. I didn’t try to stick with the stock GM manifolds and it does not appear that they will work without modification. If you have not seen the stock manifolds pipe flange - one look should explain the interference. Street & Performance also offers a set of universal headers if you don’t want to spend the $385.00 on my custom fit headers. Your muffler man will make the rest of the system for you. AC compressor mount and drive: New aluminum high efficiency compressor, made in Japan with serpentine belt drive. I do not supply or make the hoses - too many variations, but most hydraulic hose or AC shops can make you a set when you drive the car to them. The GM factory AC compressor will not clear my mounts so I designed a custom unit. Package includes all mounting brackets and hardware, freight paid - $450.00. High volume fuel pump: New – mounts in same location as stock 280Z unit, freight paid - $195.00. Tachometer calibration: We will calibrate your analog Z tach to read the revs and keep your interior stock. Cost is 75.00 but if you order all the JCI parts above the tach calibration is your BONUS - no charge. You don’t have to buy headers if you are in California to qualify for Bonus. It is strongly recommended that you find a complete Camaro or Firebird (CFB) donor vehicle. Usually you can buy an entire donor cheaper than the boneyard will charge you for the pullout. You need the engine, transmission, full wiring harness, ECM, accessories and brackets, radiator fans, etc.. Get it all at once and save time and money in the long run. The stock GM alternator is retained rather than the Datsun unit. It would not be up to the task of the fans. I use the stock CFB fans - they directly plug in to the engine wiring harness and therefore are computer controlled - is strongly recommended, very easy to mount and those notes are included with mounts. Transmission choices are the 6-speed (overdriven) T56 manual trans or the computer controlled 4L60E overdrive automatic. Automatics are a slightly easier swap and with the mountains of torque the LS1 generates it makes for a more driveable car. You can “light-em up†whenever you want and the 30% overdrive reduces noise, improves mileage, and lengthens engine life. The ZCAR factory automatic shifter is okay and there are aftermarket units if you prefer. Of note – in this installation the T56 manual install does not require enlarging the transmission tunnel or modifying the shifter hole. I used a factory GM clutch master cylinder. I understand it is best to keep the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) as it reduces spark knock, reduces emissions, and allows the computer to signal more ignition advance which translates into more power. The headers have the required plumbing to retain the EGR. AIR – air induction reaction – is not included with the headers. AIR functions the first minute or so of operation and helps complete combustion and light off the catalytic converters quicker. The LS1 air pump is electric and controlled by the ECM. You will have to verify what is required for local emissions - I can not know what your locale requires, please do not call me. Side notes: These components are for the first generation Zcars only. The first generation is 240 - 260 and 280 Z - not 280ZX. We do not have anything LS-1 for the ZX, we do offer a small block V8 kit for all of the cars before the 300ZX. ZX to LS-1 models may be offered later - send email to zcar@johnscars.com and request ZX info - please do not call, it is a waste of time. These components will allow you to mechanically install the drive train and cooling system in approximately 20 hours. It does not include any super detailing of the engine bay, paint repairs, or electrical connections work. Class takes time - what you see on TV mechanic is not real time. If your Z is rusty, don’t even start. Find another body shell that is rust free. The torque developed by this drive train pushes the limits of the Z unibody even when it is in good condition. The stock Z differential and half-shafts have proven adequate for this application. To get yourself started toward the ride of your dreams fill out the order sheet, sign it, and send it in along with certified funds. Remember, freight costs included within the continental USA – Hawaii and Alaska will be slightly higher due to higher shipping costs. Tax is due on any sale in Texas. Headers can not be sold/shipped to California. If you have questions I did not address here please send an email to zcar@johnscars.com. Thanks for making it to the end - they’ll be seeing your tail lights adios with the JCI LS1 ZCar.