oldschool2

1982 280zx, auto trans. Painted June 2008.

Hello, My 1982 non-turbo will turn-over and not start if I put the Wrong KEY in the ignition. I have done this 3 times in 3 1/2 years. When I realize that I put the wrong key (door key) in the ignition, and put the ignition key in, as intended, the car starts. I did this again about 2 weeks ago. Same thing used to happen with an old Tercel I had.

Hello, Thanks for the detailed information. Nice to get a reply that actually explains something. WD 40 (WD = Water Displacement) is big in the USA. Royal Putple Maxfilm is a newer (and much more expensive option).

Good Day, I have bought Two replacement flashers from Nissan Dealers in the USA at $50.00 each. I also have tried a cheap $10.00 one. Results are the same for each. They work then they do not. The USA version of the 1982 280zx definitely has only one Flasher that controls the Hazard and the left / right flasher. Currently everything works. Tomorrow it may not. So far the flashers have worked for about one month. Previously (when hot) they were not working (left turn) for about a month. This has been a cycle going on for three years. Took me awhile to connect the outside temperature (weather) to what was going on. I am looking for a switch to disect. I am not sure as to how the assembly is held together. In other words I am not sure if the switch can be disassembled and then reassembled.

I have been pestered by my turn signal not working for 2 years. It works then it does not. It is not the flasher. Sometimes the left turn does not work, sometimes the right turn does not work. 1982 zcars have one flasher that works with the TS and Hazard. Hazard works fine. The weather has turned cold (for Vegas), temps in the 20 to 50 degree range. Now that it is cold the turn signal works perfect, and has for a couple of weeks. I can only guess that there is a contraction/expansion going on that affects the TS switch. Any one else ever experienced this TS situation?

Try the below site. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

Move to Las Vegas and you will be required to due a Smog Test every year! Also, I get thumbs-up and frequent compliments on the appearence of my 280zx 1982. Even Porsche owners like my ZX.

This is a pic of my 1982 280ZX NON-Turbo fuse box cover. Ebay has 3 for sale NOW.

Thanks for the info..

I have an intermitent turn signal problem. Sometimes it will not signal left. Sometimes it will not signal right. Hazard lights work OK. FYI: 1982 has only one TS flasher for both the Hazard and Turn Signal. I have replaced the flasher 3 times. Specifically, I am trying to get the top cover off the steering column that the switch sets under. Sometimes when I jiggle the TS switch handle, the flasher works for awhile then stops. Maybe there is a loose wire in the turn signal assembly, but I can not get the cover off to check-it-out. Also, where in the front headlight area do the turn signals GROUND? Thanks

Hello, Look at my post on this forum titled: Fuel Tank Vacuum and Fuel Check Valve. You can probably skip to my post #15, #18 and #19 to see whats-up. You also need to be sure that you have the proper fuel cap that has a vacuum check valve on the bottom. Courtesy Nissan in Texas is the only source I know of.

Oil Pressure Sending Units are available on Ebay, www.motorsportauto.com and www.blackdragonauto.com to name a few.

Not sure how long you have had your car, but when I first bought mine, I had a set of two ignition keys that appeared the same when held next to each other. Twice I had a zippo response (about like your problem description). I figured out that only one of my keys would work 100% of the time in the ignition. Both keys looked the same when compared side by side. I had a similiar problem with a toyota. Otherwise, I would look for a blown fuse @ box on the inside passenger side kick panel.

Two more pics!

Maybe some of these pics will help. Disregard the drawing on pics as they are from other postings.

Hard to find tires "may" be available @ www.cokertire.com I have 14" BF Goodrich TA Radials that COKER appears to stock ($88.00 ea.). The COKER search engine seems quirky. One search = no match for 280zx another found 3 matches. P205/70R14 BFG T/A RWL PRODUCT INFORMATION SKU: 5556500 UTQG rating: 400-A-B Overall diameter: 25.4" Cross section: 8.2" Load capacity: 1433 @ 35psi Rec. rim width: 5" - 7" Tube type: Tubeless Max inflation: 35 Price: $88.00

I was quoted about $500.00 for a 4 wheel set at "Hub Cap Annie" in Las Vegas. Lets see $500 vs. $60? Hard choice. Think I would go with $60.00.

As soon as I hit the Mega Bucks in Vegas I will put a BMW M3, Straight 6, 330 HP, 255 ft/lbs in my 280zx. Regarding Super Chargers: I had a super charged Nissan Maxima (Stillen Kit). In my experiences (mostly bad), have a super charger that has the drive belt pulley mounted facing away from the engine, so that the belt can be changed without having to remove the entire SC, to get to the pulley to put a new belt on (belts tend to fly-off, break).

Thanks for the connector sealing ideals. When I get the new TPS and hopefully a suitable new Connector I plan to use both Heat Shrink and Dielectric (still not sure of correct application method) as a preventative of future water invasion. Still unsolved is replacing the Connector (female plug). As near as I can determine the Connector is part of the "main engine bay wiring harness." I have looked for a Universal type Connector. Not much luck (most are round pin). The long list of applications above may lead to a new harness via Ebay. So far zipo. There is / was a new 280zx harness for $150.00 on Ebay, but I am not "that" motivated.

Specifically, my TPS had heavy coolant pooling in the "cup" area that the 3 prongs are in (circled in white in attached pic). If I fill the "cup" about halfway with Dielectric grease, then insert the female connector onto the male fitting TPS, will the process be correct? Otherwise, the TPS cupped area (that the 3 prongs are in) will be open to future water invasion.

I had to raise the hood and rev the engine to find my leak. It was a pin hole about dead-center at top of the hose. A royal mess to clean-up.

I guess the dielectric grease would be applied in the TPS male fitting end. When the connector female end is plugged in, the male plugs would scrape off most of the “non-conductive†dielectric grease when inserted / plugged in (allowing for a electrical contact between the male and female fittings). If the grease was not scraped off the contact "might" be affected. Yes? There seems to be some disagreement as to the function of dielectric (non-conductive) vs. conductive grease.

I looked on Ebay and found a TPS that susposedly fit 280ZX cars and others. Anyone familiar with any of the noted? If this is correct then the connector must be the same (or am I missing something?). 1980 Nissan 280ZX : 6-2754 2.8L 1980 Nissan 280ZX Anniversary : 6-2754 2.8L 1981 Nissan 810/Maxima : 6-2393 2.4L 1981 Nissan 810 Maxima : 6-2393 2.4L 1981 Nissan 810 Maxima Diesel : 6-2393 2.4L 1982 Nissan 810/Maxima : 6-2393 2.4L 1983 Nissan 810/Maxima : 6-2393 2.4L 1981 Nissan 280ZX GL Turbo : 6-2754 2.8L 1982 Nissan 280ZX Turbo : 6-2754 2.8L 1983 Nissan 280ZX Turbo : 6-2754 2.8L 1982 Nissan 200SX : 4-2200 2.2L Z22E 1983 Nissan 200SX : 4-2200 2.2L Z22E 1989 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1989 Nissan Stanza E : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1989 Nissan Stanza GXE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1984 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1984 Nissan Stanza GL : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1984 Nissan Stanza XE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1985 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1985 Nissan Stanza GL : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1985 Nissan Stanza XE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1986 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1986 Nissan Stanza E : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1986 Nissan Stanza GL : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1986 Nissan Stanza XE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1986 Nissan Stanza XE (4wd) : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1987 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1987 Nissan Stanza E : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1987 Nissan Stanza GXE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1987 Nissan Stanza XE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1987 Nissan Stanza XE (4wd) : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1988 Nissan Stanza : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1988 Nissan Stanza E : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1988 Nissan Stanza GXE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1988 Nissan Stanza XE : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E 1988 Nissan Stanza XE (4wd) : 4-1974 2.0L CA20S,E Throttle Position Sensor [Reference to: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS, Part #: TH114 // OE #158-0132, 22620-D3300, 22620-N8560, 22620-P8100 ]

Thanks for the input! I have a new TPS on order. Trying to locate a new Connector. When I get the new parts I will look closer at the fitment. Any alternate suggestions for sealing the top of the connector and TPS? I guess at the least I can wrap foil around the TPS/Connector assembly.

After fixing a "Thermostat Bypass Hose" leak I discovered I had the dreaded 2400 to 2500 RPM rev limiter effect. TPS posts quickly sent me in the correct direction. I discovered significant coolant pooling in the top of the TPS (under the connector). Pooling was removed by using a "Can of Computer Air" to blow-out the green coolant. Now car runs excellent. QUESTION: Has anyone mounted their TPS in an upside down position (flip it 180)? Any known reason to not try this? I am not sure of clearance due to piping under TPS. Otherwise, any functional issues with this ideal?