love-my-V8-280Z

Im installing a LT1 into a 280Z and if your thinking about it there is a lot of help here. Most everything you will need is answered here. But first it will cost you about $2,000 plus motor and trans to make it all work 100%. You can cut out some by going with a carbed motor. not much. Its not a hard swap, just will nickle and dime you to death! I shoud say $50 and $100 dollar you u to death! But it sure is going to be fun taking it to a car show... I will have to get a a chevy, V8, or a 5.8 liter (what ever liter it is I forget) and place one of these emblems on the the hood. Im having a great time! but I just bought a quart of black paint to paint the motor, valve covers, motor mounts and it was $40. Good luck Terry

Great Im going to look for someone that can powder coat in my area... Thanks

Well thanks guys, I see one yes, one crinkle paint (what ever that is) and a yes to high temp paint... Has anyone tried clear coat urathane paint??

I have a LT1 and would like to paint the aluminum intake and the water pump. Do you know if the paint will hold up over time?? Thanks!

Thanks Bob, I have been told to just remove them both because the LT1 computer will run the fuel pump. Terry

OH MY GOD! I wanted to someday rebuild a motor but you just scared the pants off me!

Im installing a LT1 270HP. I should get 20 MPG and run in the 13's. I have talked to other and they are very pleased with the power. The fuel injection gives you a smooth running car and good gas mileage as well as a motor that will go 200,000 miles. If you want more HP its not much work to add 50 HP or 100 HP. And I would think it may hit the 12's with just a few upgrades. I saw a make it a LT4 kit for $2500 that promised some huge HP's. it was a head and cam kit... Good luck! Just my 2 cents.

I picked the motor mounts up at a local parts store, Autovalve. They have been a real good store, I have to give the credit to the women at the counter... her male partner is a goof! Anyway I'm installing a LT1 so Im in more need of answers myself... You should be able to find your answers in the history or send a email to someone that has done the work already... Good luck, I would he herting if it was not for this site...

Im somewhat confused, you said it will not budge, It moves forward pretty good but when push backward it rolls hard. You are not going to push a automatic when it is in gear. you have spun your tire, with the drive shaft unhooked? I have seen breaks that drag when a car is pushed backward and not forward. U have to un hook the driveshaft and turn the rearend yourself than the driveshaft... You may be in gear....

Just bought mine, $7 bucks each. Only thing that has not been a arm and a leg! How Long did it take JTR to get you your parts? I tryed to make my own, near impossible.

Gaz, Thanks, have u started the car yet? There are several other relays that are for the fuel pump above the fuse box, have u bypassed them? Are you just following the JTR manual or studing your wiring scmatic? Thats Terry

Tomo, Can you send me a copy? I have the owners manual but would like to see if they are different. Would you like a copy from the owners manual? I have a 78. Terry

Rick, Last week I called JTR Driveline (note: In Grand Rapids Michigan) on my day off, the day before new year. When I called the counter guy said yes they had the product. I told him I was coming to pick it up and asked directions. It was 11:15. He told me how to get there and said they closed at noon, he made a somewhat snooty comment that I better hurry if I was going to make it. After I hung up his remarks had turned me off. So I called my local Auto Value parts store who has just treated me great, and asked if they could get the part for me, she sure I know a place that sells them, turns out its the same place.. I tell her that defeats the purpose, she does not know anywhere else to get and tells me they will sell it to her cheaper and pick it for me and sell it to me for the same price. Anyway I call her today and she has it and tells me "boy they are not nice" They tell me one price but when we arrived to pick it up they charged me a different price! And no one can figure out whom I first talked too. The first guy was decent but the others I talked to were all nasty!. Well I thought I would share this with you... Also I have been studying my diagram, I don't like the make up of the ignition system at all, seem more complicated than necessary. Would love to remove the ignition relay etc and install my own. Going with the LT1 I have to figure what to remove such as the coil wires, alt wires etc,,, Not to bad but not to easy either... Terry

My print shows the red wire from the Speedo going to the floor temp warning lamp, on used in Califonia cars,,, Good Im glad I don't live there! 9% sales tax I heard and tons of government regs that all cost more of our money!

Please let me know how it goes when you remove the ignition unit, I just placed a post that asks almost the same thing.

If you study the wireing diagram for a few hours, you will see all the wiring for the tail lights head lights ect are being feed from one main wire. There are 4 out puts. On is just the starting, one is Acc one is "B" and the one that runs the critical stuff is "IG". If you do the studying and look at the fuse block it is pretty easy. I do have a 280Z, so I dont know how much it will match your car. put I would be willing to help if you dont understand me.

I agree, WOW you would think digital gauges would be cheaper.

I have a 280Z and am trying to install a LT1, well studying the Z scmatic I find it a confussing mess. I would love to just remove the Ignition Transistor, fuel pump relay and the fuel pump control relay, I would replace the fuel pump relay for safty but it would be nice to clean this up... Problem is that I think I would lose a lot if I just went and disconnected this harware. Has anyone tryed it?? Thanks

BARACU, Your car is unbelieveable!!!! Hands down it is the nicest I have ever seen. How could you ever drive it? Do you mind telling me what size tires you used? Everything about your car is what I'm shooting for. To bad I have southern car to start. I have been told to stay away from the rear rap around bumbers do to them being poorly made and taking so long to make fit and look good. If you ever want to sell it hit me up! steenhagens@triton.net

Well sure enough now I have 2 more questions One I can figure out after I go get my dictionary... The other is what size should I buy? My concern is it hitting the crossmember, I like the idea of a two row pulley I would think I would be able to somehow figure out how to use the second channel to run a A/C. Can I just walk into my local Nappa and order one? Thanks!

I have removed the LT1 from the 95 Z28 and the motor harness came out nice, one cable with about 15 wires had gone into the firewall. I figure I need to understand these wires and how to hook them up in the 280Z. But as I read I find out the computer interface plug called a 16-pin OBD-II ALDL connector is located in the camero under the dash on the passinger side. Ok, am I too figure out how this was connected to the computer which was attached to the firewall? It seems impossible.

Ok, I need a crank underdrive pulley for my LT1 to not rub on the cross member. What is a underdrive pulley? Just a smaller pulley? And as for a Water Temp sending unit, Lets say I tossed my 280Z motor not think I may need parts of it... Can I just buy the Stewart-Warner sending unit, use it to replace the unit that came on the LT1. Assuming it has one, it does right? Ok, every time I ask a question, the answer generates two more! Overwhelmed and liking it!

Dan, It was sad, I gave that fork a little pull and it came right off, that the trans came apart so easy... When this Z car found me, I just wanted to fix it up. well after I found this site and you guys willing to help, it has made it 1)more fun 2)possible to do the undo-able! Thanks, If you hang in their with me there will be one more mint Z running around. Another Z fan I met here lives just 50 mins south of me, he came and visted me yesteday, real nice guy his name is Rick Wiers, real brite also. He put a 350 into a 280 several yrs ago. He knows the men here pretty good. If you get a chance to know him don't pass it up. Thanks again Terry

Im watching Bruce Almighty and he is driving a Z.. I did not look that well but I think its a 260 or 280.. Opps he just smatched it!

Thanks alot guys, I sure hope I have not damaged it. We really gave it hell trying to pry it apart!