love-my-V8-280Z

Went to my local parts store and told them my problem... They too knew the Holleys were loud.. But when I told "John" how much pressure I needed he said I have just the pump! Dan, you will like this, its from a 87-88 F150 with the 5.8.. He said they are very quite... max output is 50 GPM. So anyway it will be several months before I can really run it to listen but what the heck $90.00. Anyone think I will have problems with the GPM?? I'm kind of planing on the LT4 upgrade some winter after my beauty is on the road running.. Terry

Dan, Can you tell me more, what year ford, or better yet what kind of a holley was it? was it generic or made to fit the ford???

This post probably should be posted in fuel delivery but it is for a V8 and I need the hits... Anyway I have searched the site and there is not much on external fuel pumps. We need a large posting for the future.. I have read that several people are not happy with the Holley because they are so loud.. And I think the Mallory 110 maybe quite but the one posting I found it was said that it failed with only a couple of hours on it.... So would anyone that is using a electric external fuel pump please let us know if its quite and if it has been dependable.. Thanks

I'm in the market for a fuel pump also. I just read you posting asking what was the quietest pump, and you have I see bought the expesive quite malory. Only to have it fail.. I wonder if some crap got into your new pump? Let me know would you... Im so close to having my LT1 run.. I went to use my datsun pump only to find it in a rusty unuseable state.... So tell me how load was the pump before it failed???? Thanks Terry

You almost got it,, It must look like this......... Scumdog check your mail box.... Terry

Tim, I have learned that I need to provide power to the obdII, (pin 16) is there a forth wire to the obd1? Also what cars in the junk yard should I look for??? And should I expect the connector to be under the dash? Thanks again tim, Terry

Thanks Tim, I have heard that before, I will hit the junk yard and follow your wiring guide...

Dan, I will tackle that first thing tomorrow morning, you have been a big help Dan thanks! And my I say that is one hell of a nice looking paint job!

Tim, the pic is what is on the car. It don't have any letters just numbers. Do you think i should ground 4 and 5 on the DLC??

Im wiring my LT1 to my 280Z and have not studied the VAT's well at all. I was told I did not need them if I use the Z's wiring to manage the fuel pump. So I have jumpered a wire from the fuel pump contol relay to the fuel pump relay so all I have to do is ground the fuel pump relay and it will enerzie the fuel pump... If I run this ground to the PCM will the car run? Or should I ground it to the oil pressure sending unit, which would add some safety. Od course I would have to use a relay to manage the high current. Point is Will the car run? Or is there other things the PCM does to prevent a car from starting with out the vats? One more, if you understand the vats, I did ohm the key and know what size resistor to buy, were do I put it? and is it that easy as wiring in a resistor to bypass the vats? Thanks guys, I don't have the IQ to figure this out myself!!!

I'm working on the wiring of my LT1 and was hoping someone would tell me if I need to hook up wires 540 ORN and 650 BKL or 451 BLk/WHT? I have hooked up PCM D20 and D30.. Are these the only 2??? Thanks! To help others in the future, I have figured out the correct wiring... you need to ground pins 4 and 5 and supply power to pin 16.. Plus of course hook up pcm 6 and 9 as shown...

Boy, you have your hands full. I'm not sure what I would do with that car. Sure $200. but it needs so much work to be a car to be proud of. Every part of that car needs work. I would say you would be way ahead to spend $1,000 and get a gem that only needs a paint job maybe to look new. You will feed hours and hours and lots of dollars to shape that ride up.. Good luck! PS... Mine was almost that bad, Im installing a LT1 and figure I will have $12,000 in to it.. and a butt ton of hours... But sure like what I'm doing..

Not at all,. the same as with the spring.

Rusty, I have not finished my hood install but I have bolted it on and made sure it was going to fit. I agree the spring is to strong and would have ripped the support out of the hood. I have removed the springs and left the hinges. I will later find were I want to support the hood with a arm than go buy one from a junk yard..

Dan, How much effort did you put into the driveline angle. Whats my chance of having it turn out by using the predrilled holes in the JTR cross member? I plan on using the trans mount that came out of the camero. thanks you have helped me more than once.

Mark, You used the JTR trans mount on your LT1 T56, well thats what I'm installing. Did you have to modify anything or was it a direct bolt in and things lined up? I'm at the point were I need to decide on the cross member also. I have a 95 LT1 T56... Thanks Terry

How did you get so lucky to have two men at work with v8 Datsuns. I get a look when I talk about upgrading my Z. Its slow moving but I'm working on the wiring of my LT1. work has been on the wiring. Trying to figure out how to use fuses instead of the fuesable links... I wish I was as far along as you are. If it helps you to stay motivated, I have been plucking along for 4 years and still can''t drive it.

That was good! Who thinks it was real? I did not see no blood????

If your interested I have both the JTR books and would sell them together for halve cost of new actual shipping... Of couse they have a little grease on them but they are in great shape and can as many digital pics as you like... Of couse not a digital pic of each page LOL

Here is some comments I pilferiged from the web some time ago..... That said, you may have some easy remedies if the u-joint angle difference of 2.5 degrees does cause vibration problems. The first one is to raise the back of the differential by modifying or removing the rubber washers above the ends of the mustache bar, etc. The JTR manual goes over this, but I heard about this method before it was part of the manual. Unless you have a solid diff mount, the "opposite and equal" reaction to forward motion torque at the rear wheels raises the front of the diff upward. The point is that the static angle measurements observed at rest are not the ones the car sees during actual use. Placing the driveline angle lower by one degree allows for a total driveline angle deflection of twice that amount before vibration causing misalignment occurs. This vibration is most severe under load, and for good reason. The differential is bucking upward under load, creating a disparity of angles which increases with load and torque. The angle that the motor is in now (assuming you have not already modified it) is actually the worst case scenario for vibration free driveline. For truly long term driveline health, the diff has to be limited to no more than two degees of angle change. (Zero degrees of change would be best, but the noise transfer caused by a solid front mount, is for some an unwelcome irritation.)

Checked out your car, I would recommend some photos showing the motor and maybe the inside... Sorry to hear about your missfortune... Will be interesting to see what you get for it.. Interested in trading it for a motor home???

You need to give more details if you would like some advise.

Thanks, Ryan. I sure wish I could get one for less money. I can't bring myself to pay $500 for a hood.. Just to cheap I guess. i will admit, after the hours I have into the 3" used cowl I bought a couple hundred for a clean new one don't seem like such a bad idea.

Sorry to hear about it,, you have to look at your time as a value. You made a mistake and it cost you a little money. Heck if you consider what u pay for education it was cheap. i have bought 2 fenders on line and both were full of plastic after both promised them to be clean. U can't win. Don't let this couple hundred dollar rip off get you down, I know I would be hot too, but I bought a bumper I wount use and cant sell for $150... We all have waisted a couple hundred dollars at some point.

This deal looks familiar. I would try real hard to go and see the seller and look at the motor. Every Z part I have bought off the web, here and E-Bay have not been either as nice as I thought or I was lied too. If it sounds to good to be true it probably is. is this an e-bay sale? If shipping is $500 than all he wants is $1700 for the motor? I would think he could sell it for more than that locally in a wheels and deals magazine. Why did they not leave it in a car so you can hear it run? I wouldn't buy a motor if I can't hear it run, there is always another deal. I bought the whole car motor/trans from a junkyard for $3000. Told them I wanted to hear it run, and they had it running when I arrived. 55,000 miles on it. Also if you want to keep the A/C with the help of a fellow hybridZer I was shown how to put the A/C across from the Alt.