J Taylor

I was riding down the road the other day and the Z died, out of the blue. I coasted to a little side street and tried to re crank it to no avail. The motor sounded really weird...like it was had no compression(same as it sounds when you turn it over with all the spark plugs out). I turned it over a few more times and it started sounding normal again(could hear the exhaust pulses out of the exhaust again) but still wouldn't crank. I got a ride back to the house and grabbed the compression tester. Came back and tested the compression and it was perfect on every cylinder. Put plugs back in and it cranked right up but was missing on a cylinder or 2. I drove it back to the house running really rough and busting up bad around 3000 rpms. Been trouble shooting for a couple of days now and can't seem to figure it out. I would really appreciate some input on this if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks, JT

Awesome. Thanks for the reply. JT

I haven't heard of anyone else having to do this but when I put the T5 in a while back the center console wouldn't fit back in the car b/c the shifter was in the way. What I had to do was notch about an inch out of the console so the shifter could go into 1st, 3rd, and 5th. ANyone else had to do this?? I have a brand new console here but wanted to make sure this was normal before I cut it up as well. Thanks, JT

Buddy of mine is trying to put autometer speedo, tach, etc, etc, in his 72 240z and asked me to post to try to find a page that shows pics of how to mount the gauges exactly. Does anyone know of a page like this that might help him out a little? Thanks, JT

I'm not sure how it is going work yet....haven't got the motor back in the car. This was the cam the guy that did my headwork recommended so I'm hoping it will work out good. I'll get that part number for you one day this week. JT

I just bought a crane cam, valve springs, and retainers. I think I paid like $90 for the springs. If you want I can get you a part number. JT

The cost of the entire engine and ECU with harness and connected components is $114.00 plus tax and a $20.00 core charge. I think this is a fair price. ----Yeah, I'd say that's pretty damn fair. You better jump on that. JT

Pretty sure it is just a straight bolt on kinda thing. If the one you are looking at falls through I also have a spair p-90a head for sale.....actually I will have a spair p90 head for sale in a week or so as well. JT

No, mustang T5 will not just bolt in but the shifter for it will. JT

LOL. Thanks man. JT

Thanks SCCA. Jonathon.... Taylor . The car used to be Walker's though a couple of years ago. Wheels are 18x8 TSW Trophies. Good luck finding some...they are NLA. My friend got supposedly the last set there was in this size and offset a while back for his 240z. He actually got them really cheap since they were discontinued....I want to say it was under $500 including shipping for the 4. More pics of the car on my webpage.... www.oldschoolracing.net JT

980mak: Basically all my car has is a t62 turbo and a huge bell intercooler. It has some bigger injectors and a mass air that has been messed with to half ass accept the bigger injectors. I was lucky enough to buy the car almost as-is and have a big headstart on the buildup. About 3 motors ago the car made 358 at the wheels with the same setup. I am putting yet another motor in maybe this weekend and waiting on the dfi before I make any good boost on it this time. The car runs really strong but is on the jagged edge with this setup. I have several pics o n my webpage if you want to take a look. JT

300rwhp is easy with a stock motor. My 280 is making 340 at the wheels with a stock motor and stock electronics. I am hoping to get close to 400 at the wheels once the dfi goes on it really soon. On the other hand I am contemplating selling all my turbo stuff and throwing the 5.0L sitting in my garage into it with a big nasty cam, some nice heads, and a big shot of gas. Can't see me actually doing that though...too much fun busting ass on "fast" cars around here then showing the straight 6 under the hood. JT

The 84 AE came with a 3.54 gear just FYI. JT

What year and model mercedes are we talking about exactly? I have a 240x TB at the moment but surely wouldn't mind something bigger. JT

Just got everything finished installing the motor today but have some problems after the install. WHen I first tried to crank it I had the wires on the alternator crossed and it sparked on the alternator and on the fuel pump relay. After putting the wires in the right spot the fuel pump now runs when the key is off but when you go to crank it the pump stops. I bypassed the 2 wires in the relay and put them directly to each other and the pump runs constantly. Car cranks up and runs fine for a few seconds then starts cutting up and finally dies. Would the relay being bad cause the pump to run while the key is off and not run when the key is on?? I'm stumped. Can't find another relay just like this one and I dunno which wires would go where on a new one(there are 4 wires in case it helps). Any help would be appreciated. JT JT

My 280 came with the 5 lug stuff already done. The rears are using conquest calipers and rotors....I dunno about the hub though. I haven't had to do brakes yet so I haven't looked at it close. Can get a pic for someone if they are interested though. JT

I just won the 2nd scoop that was on ebay. I know this has already been mentioned in an earlier post, but just in case the other guy falls through with reproducing them, I have access to a fiberglass shop and don't see any reason I shouldn't be able to reproduce these pretty easily if people are interested. JT

I already have a stock motor making 400+ at the flywheel but just blew a piston recently. I don't want to go back with another stock motor. I already have t62 turbo and a huge intercooler. The motor is going back in with a DFI of some sort. I have everything taken care of except the specifics of what I need to build the motor right. The motor I have made 339 at the wheels and I am shooting for 450(give or take a few)at the wheels after it goes back in. JT

I am in the process of planning and gathering parts to start my L28 turbo buildup. Shooting for HP figures in the mid 400's to the wheels. Been talking to rebello and top end about head work and other stuff but it seems everywhere I turn I get different opinions about how to build the bottom end. What is going to be the best setup to go with. I have the LD28 crank sitting here but I think I have decided against stroking it since it seems like I keep reading about it not being a good turbo platform unless you want to dump an insane amount of money into it. Also, who should I get to do my headwork and what all should I have done? Any tips on a good cam to go with? ANyone have anything good or bad to say about Ross pistons? Thanks for any help. JT

Actually, those are conquest seats. Pretty nice but I'll probably end up replacing them with some rx7 TT seats I have laying around. JT

That's awesome Matt. I'm impressed. You are now making more power than me. I just got everything sorted out on the 280 tonight and got the boost back to 17 so I am going to try to go to the dyno and see how much the throttle body helped. JT

Buddy of mine bought some brackets a few weeks ago from the local dealer. They had to order them but there was no problem getting them. JT

I really would like to order some weld draglites for the rear of my 280z MOnday or Tuesday but I really need some help with what offset/backspacing I need. I want some 16x8's. The car has stock fender flares and coilovers with the 8" spring. Can anyone help me on this? Also, anyone have any pro's/con's on getting the 16x3's up front? Should I go with a little wider? Thanks alot, JT

I just pulled my intake off my L28T to change the exhaust manifold gasket and the heat shield makes it a major pain to do. Is it really important to have it? Looks like it can't really do a whole lot as far as shielding the heat. Would make life a whole lot easier to not have it there. If it is important, is there anything else I can do to replace it such as maybe jet hot the exhaust manifold or wrap the intake runners or something? BTW, the intake manifold(n42 if it matters) is already Jet hot coated in case it makes any difference. Thanks, JT