violacleff
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Posts posted by violacleff
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I'm using the greddy type R bov rick. What would you suggest with that system?
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if you have your maf located between the bov and the throttle body you can vent with out riching. but if you recirculate it will help keep your turbo spooled but you better have a good sized intercooler if you recirculate to keep from getting heat soak. so you can have good performance with either veting will help keep the air cooler=hp. recirculating keeps turbo spooled not as much lag=hp. thats my 2 cents
Interesting. Does anyone else attest to this? I do have a pretty good intercooler. Its a large HPI model. I would like to vent but if recirculating will give better boost response then perhaps that is the way to go. I have the Greddy type R, which I don't think makes as cool as sound as the type S does anyway, so no use in sacrificing performance for sound as I got a pretty big turbo which I'm hoping won't lag too much as it is. I guess with a full t4, any method to fight lag is the way to go. So recirculation it is.
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Hey I just bought an Aeromotive adj FPR for only $129 at Suprastore.com. That was the best deal I've seen out there so far. Anyone who's shopping for one should check it out.
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A sprung clutch has those springs that go around the hub (like the stock unit). Street clutches will have springs to slow down the clutch engagment just a little. Most "pure racing" clutches will have a solid hub (no springs) which will make it even harder to drive on the street.
Mine is unsprung then. The rest of you who mentioned 6 puck not being that bad, were you speaking of sprung or unsprung. I'm just trying to get an idea of how streetable my car will be. Bastaad is yours similar to mine or a street disc?
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Sorry I'll read it again and look.
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John If I follow ur advice will this protect the thrust bearings and crank? or will it wear them out regardless? If so I may just get another clutch though I hate to shell out that kind of money
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Should I be using the 280zx OEM 02 sensor or the Z31's? I read through the post and it didn't mention it. Thanks
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How do I tell if its sprung or unsprung?
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In Drax's article, he mentions smoothing the transition between the throttle body and the intake with a die grinder. Could someone expound on this just a little so I know I'm doing the right thing? Also, my head is pretty heavily ported, and i need to match the gasket with it. My plan is to stuff the ports with paper towel, hold the gasket near it and use a dremel to match it. Is this a good/bad idea? Does anyone know of a better way? I tried an exacto knife but it wouldnt' cut through the gasket.
Thanks
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I'm putting in my turbo motor with an ACT 6 puck clutch. My question is will this clutch eat my tranny or will the 280z tranny handle it? I realize it wont feel as friendly as a street disc, and I wont mind that much. For daily driving though, will I be going through trannies quickly or will I just have less comfort in shifting? I don't plan to race at every street light, but i'm not sure if light driving will preserve the tranny using this clutch.
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I have a full MSD setup with blaster and coil. I also have a spare 300zx turbo coil. the msd is already installed in the car (from the previous NA setup)and I have the turbo coil in a box with an HKS twin power. Do I need to use the turbo coil for an l28et setup? Or is the MSD setup better? If I use the 300zx coil I guess I'll swap out the MSD with HKS just to see if its any better. What do you guys think?
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I'm guessing noone makes an a pillar pod for a 240z. I know one guy on here is using Miata ones. Is this the closest fit to the Z. I'm not that skilled with using a heat gun and what not.
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I'm using the z31 ECU with MAF. I heard that venting to the atmosphere will cause a momentary richness between shifts. I think Bastaad mentioned this when he tried venting his DSM bov. If I use a Greddy/HKS SS Bov will I encounter this problem if I vent to the atmosphere, or is there a way to do this properly without having to recirculate it?
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Just curious where most of you mount your Boost, EGT, Air/Fuel gauges. Pics would be great though not necessary.
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Got an l28et going to be boosting 18-20 after break in. I am going to use the Walbro GSL 392. Are the stock fuel lines ok for this amount of boost? Also I see options for buying fittings. Exactly what size fittings do I need with stock lines. If lines need to be upgraded which fittings would I need? While I'm talking about fuel, I'm thinking of going AEM or Aeromotive for an FPR. Any preferences between the two? And are there any specific fittings that I should buy with the FPR as well? Thanks a lot
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I'm doing a turbo swap and am looking to source a distributor for my motor. I currenty have the L28 NA dizzy. A guy in oregon was selling a rebuilt one for $129. Is this a good price for one? Or would I be better off looking in the JY? Also the local shops sell them with a core charge. If I brought in an NA core would they be able to tell the difference?
Dave
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Would there be any advantages of just using one from a turbo car?
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My current engine in the car is an L28 3.0. I'm putting in the Turbo motor next week. Can I use the same distributor? If not, do I just grab one from the JY or should I source a rebuilt/new one somewhere?
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Whoa WHoa now this is some new (hopefully good) info to me. I'm putting my turbo motor together right now using 500cc RC's and a JSK custom fuel rail. I was just about to purchase an AEM or Aeromotive adust. FPR. Are you saying that this is redundant? Does the amount of boost I'm running have an bearing on this? I'll be running 15psi street and 21 track with a T4. I rather spend the money elsewhere if I don't need an FPR.
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HMMM so I guess with good quality pads I should be ok then.
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I have read all the posts concerning brake packages and it seems that everyone who does the $1,000 + upgrades is auto X racing. My 240 is undergoing a turbo swap for 350-400 whp. Now this will be a daily driven car that will see the strip a few times. I know that braking is a huge factor for cars racing on the track and big brakes are important. I have seen Ross, Dave and Juans brake packages and had a few questions.
1st. I am willing to spend 1300 for the Xtreme 13 if this will be necessary for street driving/my safety. But is it necessary or race only?
2nd. I noticed that Juan sell the Spacer for the 4x4 vented setup and suggests that a full kit (ross, MSA) is unecessary if it can be found in the JY. Is this true? Or is there any advantage (performance wise) of buying a $350 setup over JY parts using the spacer? I am on a budget but will spend more for safety if necessary. Not interested in bling.
3rd. Ross mentions using the 4x4 setup with Porterfield R4 pads. This seems to be some sort of medium between the typical 4x4 setup and Extreme package for a guy who is not doing circuit racing. Is this a correct assumption?
Sorry for the long post. I have read through the posts, but as I mentioned they all seemed to be race oriented. I will pay extra $$ for safety but don't want to go overboard if its not necessary.
Dave
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Got a quick question. I bought a turbo setup from someone who threw in a bunch of parts including an HKS Twin power as well as a 300zx turbo coil. My current NA setup uses an MSD ignition and coil from MSA. Would the HKS replace or compliment the MSD? And should I use the current coil that I have or the turbo coil? Any answers on how the Twin Power works would be appreciated. I'm still learning. THanks
Dave
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Thanks for your help guys,
At this point, I'm afraid to touch this motor again, and don't feel like spending anymore money on it by paying a pro. That was a hi-po cam that I bought from MSA and wouldn't want to stick a used one in there. I'm just going to yank that motor out while its still good and begin my turbo swap. I suppose I'll get a new cam for it when I can afford it and sell the motor when I replace it, or just keep it as a spare in case I get too boost crazy in the future.
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While trying to remove the crank pulley to change the front seal, I broke the dowel pin on the cam. My question is, is it possible to carefully drill the broken part out and replace the pin? or is the cam trash now? By the way, I was manually trying to remove the pulley with one wrench on the cam and one on the pulley bolt. This was to keep the assembly from rotating so I could get the bolt off. Was that a stupid idea? I could see no other way of doing it outside of airtools. Thanks.
Dave
Intake runner porting
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Posted
Ok my P90 head has been ported and polished pretty extensively, and I wanted to open up the intake runners to get more flow. I cut out the gasket with a dremel and matched it tp the intake ports. I figured I could take the gasket and inake manifold to any machine shop and they would be able to port it for me, but noone seems to want to do it. I called an import shop and they said that they had to have the head which is on the block so that's out of the question. I have a dremel at home. Is this something simple I could just do by myself? When porting the intake runners, should I just port at the opening? How far in should I go?