violacleff
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Posts posted by violacleff
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I don't know if its a stupid question but the shop working on my z has some 240sx half cuts lying around. Right now they're installing my haltech but my MC has gone bad and will have to be replaced before I can drive it home and a new one's gonna cost me $200.
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Well my Z was sitting for a year and when I tried to drive it out of the parking lot from the shop, it went straight to the floor. The brakes were bled and its still the same. Owner said he thinks the master cylinder is broke. Any other options? If it is, would the JY be a bad idea or should I bite the bullet and get a brand new one?
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You guys will love this! Well in an attempt to get my brake pads quick, because I thought my car would be running next week, I ordered some porterfield R4S's from TEP against my good conscious only because I needed to talk to someone on the phone to make sure I was getting the right pads and because they said it would be at my door in two days. That was two wednesdays ago. I called them yesterday, and they said my order hadn't even been put through! I said "what happened?" "I don't know it must've been filed" in the most nonchalant voice I had ever heard. So I said don't bother, I'm getting them elswhere. BTW MSA has cost me $$$ in bad advice and wrong parts. They don't even know their own products sometime. But their 20 mins. away and my fast food attitude gets me burnt every time as with TEP.
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I have been reading up on those of you using MS and quite frankly it scares me a little...ok a lot. Anyway, I will be paying someone else to install it if I do purchase it. Few questions though I have not seen on the site. From what I read, the maps can only be tuned to 18 psi max? is this correct? I have not seen anyone in here running high boost on MS. I would like to run 21-24lbs. on the track and 15-16 on the street. Will MS software support these goals? Also can I set and save both a street and race map and switch between the two? If so, how many maps can be saved? Also, is a wideband 02 and absolute necessity just to get a conservative running tune, and could I bring my car to a dyno and have it tuned by a pro or am I on my own for tuning for the most part? I suppose I can call local tuners and ask the last one. Would you all recommend against me going MS if I was not a good tuner?
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The thing with the MS is that I'm not looking for a challenge. It would be a great project on another car that I can take a long time assembling, but I need this car to be reliable, since I dont have a second car anymore as a daily driver. However, it may be cheaper to buy a pre-assembled harness and pay the shop to install it than getting one of the more costly units. Furthermore, I'd prefer an ems that the local shop can tune, as I don't want to be learning on a car that I need to run. But again, I haven't ruled MS out. I will be researching it more diligently this week to see if it may work out, as it might be my only option at this point.
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I thought about that but the lack of customer support would kill me. And its a lot harder to tune. The microtech comes with a base tune that will start the car right up, plus I can get customer support. But I'm not ruling out MS completely yet, its just a definite last choice if I can't find a good deal on the others quick enough. I suppose it will depend on what my lawyers tell me. If he says it will take too long then I'll probably go MS. I'm going to search the net for group buys and see what I can find.
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Ok, I tried with multiple mechanical friends to wire the car, have paid another guy who couldn't do it right and finally a shop to wire it and it still won't run right. The shop says theres too much to trouble shoot and its a waste of time, not to mention my money. So I know the only end all fix to my woes is a stand alone ems. I had planned on getting either a microtech or haltech, and was leaning toward microtech. I got $700 right now that I can spend to get the car running. Got a couple questions. I've been doing research now for the last month and it seems like all stand alone's SDS, Haltech, and Microtech will cost $1200-1500 once all the sensors and hand programmers etc.. are to be had. Should I search the net for a used system? Is that safe? Or should I just try and scrape up another $800 and know what I'm getting. I have a settlement pending from getting rearended so I'm calling my lawyer Monday and will talk about settling early and that should get me the balance hopefully. Anyone know of any group buys going on any other boards in the meanwhile for an ems?
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Hmmm, I never thought of that as a variable. The guys at the shop are working on the wate temp sensor as we speak. I didn't know the water temp would affect that. As a matter of fact I was going to bypass the stock sensor and just use my greddy one but the fan won't turn on, so we're guessing thats the problem and now we're trying to fix the stock one.
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You know what, ignore what I said about the fuel pressure, I'm not 100% sure on where it was, my apologies. I'll have to check again when I go back the shop. I'm definitely not looking for luxury car leves. In fact, I was worried that this car was going to sound wimpy compared to my NA! This sucker is wake the dead loud at almost idle and the resonator only made it sound annoying, but not much quieter. The reason I bring it up, is grumpy vette wrote an article a while ago about loud cars and bad tunes, or something to that nature and I thought mine was out of the norm loud for a turbo car. I will hook up my A/F meter as soon as I get home so I can see exactly how rich its running. But the idle doesn't really sound that great, and its definitely running too rich by the smell. Could this have to do with a bov adjustment? I was just thinking, maybe the car is leaking vaccuum from the bov and throwing off the meter at idle. Is this possible?
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So I went to the shop to pic up my z (240z, l28et 3.1l, z31ecu) and ran into a bunch of problems. Well I couldn't drive it home cause there was mad water leakage around the thermostat and housing, and furthermore the water temp gauge doent work anymore with the new harness. I have a greddy one at home though but didn't want to drive home under these conditions. Also the brakes had almost nothing to them. They were incredibly soft and took forever to stop from a slow roll. I can address that one as well. Two real problems are, the car is running rich and I cant figure out why. I have stock injectors and 20psi fuel pressure. Also the car is super loud! I mean louder than my 3.0NA with a 2 1/2 piping and flowmaster. Granted its a 3 in. all the way back through a straight thru muffler, but not even the resonator could help it. I thought turbo motors were quiet? Could this be symptoms of other problems in the motor? I ran a 3/8 return line to the tank, thinking that would solve my rich problem but it didn't. What gives? Well it did feel good to test drive my car after a year and a half but not under such worrysome conditions.
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Hey bartman we live in the same city. What do you drive? BTW I just ordered some porterfield R4S's from TEP and called it a day for now. That should do till I can afford the Wilwood kit
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Well I know their cust serv. sucks and shipping isn't an issue because they are 20min from my house. In fact that is why I wanted to know if there was any difference between the actual products. If not I rather not wait for any shipping and just get the MSA kit. If MM's kit is superior though I would spring for that. Also I was told that it would be a good idean to save up and spend extra on the wilwood kit. Is this a huge/necessary upgrade from the 4x4? or just a waste of money for mostly street use?
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Well I figure I should upgrade my front brakes with my turbo swap and was looking at the 4x4 toyota upgrade. I don't want to scavenge the jy so I was looking at MSA's kit and Ross' kit. There's a $45 dollar difference but they seem to have different parts. Is one or both not complete? What else will I have to buy to make it work? Which kit is superior or are they both selling the same stuff? I'm a dummy when it comes to brakes and will be having a shop install it. I just want to make sure I have everything I need. What do you all suggest? This car is for street/strip no autoxing.
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About how many runs in a season?
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What are the pros and cons for the 280z tranny on the quarter mile/freeway? I have one behind my 240z turbo. I had an NA 280zx tranny but my short shift kit wouldn't fit it so I put in the 280z tranny. I suppose I should have asked before hand but oh well. BTW my parents stuck my zx tranny outside while I was away and it got pounded by the rain. Is it ruined from the water? Or would it be ok? Also can the tranny be rebuilt with beefier parts and is it worth getting one rebuilt or just buying them from the jy? My motor should be making around 400hp when I get a stand alone and I will be doing some racing.
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I have an ACT 6 puck cluth on a 280z 5 speed. When the car is off it will go into gear, but when its on, you can't get it into first to save its life. What did I do wrong? BTW i have the msa short shift kit if it matters at all.
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What are your mods?
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A 100% stock sr20det has something like 33% more torque than the stock L28 your used to. L28's aren't exactly torque monsters.
Is that on or off boost? I'm just wondering if the newer turbos on an sr20 would be more efficient than the t3 on a stock l28? BTW the wiring on the sr20z is a stand alone ems. But alex can tell you how hard or easy it was.
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So after a long and bloody battle with the wiring harness on my stroker turbo project, I finally found a shop to wire it and do the exhaust for a good price. Well I had LSD on my future list of "things I need to get into 11's" and the dude from the shop was asking me about my LSD rearend. I said "I got LSD?" Hey thats the best news I've gotten about my car in the last 2 years. The wiring is finished now and the exhaust is almost done (3 inch mandrel). I should know by tomorrow if it runs ok. I had it towed up there to get it done. Hopefully I'll be on the road by this weekand. Just in time with the dry weather
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This is a great thread. I am getting my z31ecu wired this week. Since I drive my car everyday I'm not sure a stand alone is my best option. I already have a z31 maf and rc500cc injectors. Can JWT make a program based on what I already have or would I have to buy another set of injectors and cobra maf? If bernard could program for what I have, I prefer buy his chip. If I buy all the other stuff though, I'll probably just go stand alone.
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Yeah I'm rollin with the punches and I've suffered no real catastrophes, its just bad car luck. I'm very fortunate as a person all things considered hey Mike, let me know how hard it is to setup/program that microtech. I'm inbetween that and Haltech. One good thing comes out of the bad car luck and that is that i'm getting a settlement from the accident, so not all is lost. I'm sure once I finally get to drive my car I'll forget all of my woes of trying to build it
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Anyone ever used this for a turbo application? What were your thoughts on the quality/sound?
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Well, I've been working on getting my turbo'd 240 running since June. I made the huge mistake of trying to do a swap on my daily driver and have paid the price dearly. Anyway, I was down to the wiring to get it running. A shop priced me at $300 and $100 to pick the car up. I knew another guy whom I had met at a car club about it and he said he would do it and wire my gauges for $150. I was so happy. Anyway he came and wired the car, and said it should work now, but I was missing a sensor. So I buy the sensor and guess what? The car doesn't run. I can't get in touch with him, Ive bought two cars this month that died on me and got wrecked within 3 weeks and I ended up paying the shop to do my car and when they came and picked it up today, the front MSA spoiler got ripped off when the dude was trying to load it on the dolley. I'm just glad to see the car out of my driveway now, and I'm even having thoughts wishing that I would get a phone call that my Z was stolen. I have it insured for 14k. I really rather have it run but I'm starting to think it never will and I wont realize it till another $X,000 later. Well thats all had to get it off my chest.
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OK, so I'm guessing I still wired the ECU incorrectly for power. There was a wire behind the stereo that said ACC+ that I wired the ECU to. At that point the ECU did turn on when only when the ignition was in the on position, however, it would not fire when I tried to turn it over. Did I wire it wrong again? Is there an actual ACC+ terminal that its supposed to go to? And if so where would I find it. Didnt see it in my manual
MM Vented Front Brake Package
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Hey bartman, how long did the shipment take from the time you ordered it? I'm thinking of ordering the kvr brake pads if I can get'em quick enough