violacleff

One thing I realized is that I measured on the turbine side of the wheel. Is the wheel the same on the compressor side or is that totally different. If so, that really sucks cause I had to drive an hour to where my turbo is to measure it. Guess I'll just find a housing that fits and deal with it, whatever it is.

So will a T3 housing fit?

Hmm I thought stony had exhausted all CV joint possibillities on a 400hp car. What did he miss?

Ok so I went to the shop with a micrometer and here's what I got 73.66mm exducer 63.3mm inducer. There are 11 blades on the wheel. The turbine housing was a 1.15 AR but with a T3 flange split in the center. What kind of turbo is this? Is this worth keeping? And is there a T3 flanged housing that will fit. Keep in mind that it was recently rebuilt last month, so it's in good condition.

I hate music on turbo car videos. It kills the whole thing. Still a cool video.

My parents have also been trying to get me to sell mine. If mine were to break down every week, that would actually be an improvement. For me, its like my car runs for 2 weeks out of the year! But everytime I drive it for those wonderous 5 miles before something breaks, I fall in love with it again and can't let it go. Of course the thousands of dollars that I would lose helps a little too.

Well Justin, looks like you finally raised the baller bar too high for me. I hereby crown you the new Z king of corona

I think that's what I'll do. Gotta measure the turbo to see exactly what it is that i've got, and just resell the other housing on ebay.

Mikelly, is this some kind of buddy deal? Every dyno shop I've called charges $150-250 an hour + $85 hookup fee. I would dyno tomorrow if I could get it done for $90hr.

Should've know this would'nt go smooth. I went ahead and gave the car to the shop to do, and it turns out that my T4 was really a T3 flange. I'm about $150 in labor wise. Trying to use the new housing (T4 .68 ) would mean modifying exhaust and manifold flange (more $$$$) Should I just buy a new turbo or try to make this one work? Not sure what to do. Just know the car is going to be sitting for quite a while now This turbo was just recently rebuilt (well new bearings). I got that free since the tranny shop screwed it up. I'm just wondering what my best bet is so that I don't waste anymore money. I want to drive this stinkin car already!

Aren't most t3 flanged turbos internally gated though? And isn't the stock flange t3? I don't get it. It is a nice looking manifold though. Which turbo were you planning on using?

Shane was running a 150 shot on a stock block and never popped it. I think you would be good with a 75-100 shot.

Hmm looks like you decided not to go with the JTR position. Are you planning to autocross or drag?

Going from 1.15 ar. I'ma scrap it.

http://forum.200sx-ogn.org/viewtopic.php?t=13683

Wonder if it would be better to dismount the turbo from underneath the car, to save from having to take the intake off. I'll have to analyze it tommorow and see whats the best plan.

I'm contemplating wheather or not I should pay to get this done ($250) or do it myself. The turbo's already in the car. Is there a way to do this without taking the whole turbo/manifold off? What precautions would I need to take? Or should I just pay up and not screw my car up and be without it for the next year ?

Well it doesn't look like I'm going to be making any kind of money that will justify $3-400 on an ebc in the near future. Meanwhile, 7psi sucks. Has anyone used this? I've heard some good reports on it, but something about the $30 price tag makes it seem too good to be true. I only plan to boost about 10-12lbs. 15 max.

Well I know that a lot of the money I spent was wasted on ignorance...parts I didn't need. I got nickeled and dimed to death on stupid stuff. I believe that the more people who give thourough and comprehensive write-ups on the swap, the easier and cheaper it will become, due to less trial and error. Kudos to members like stony and quoc who have blessed us with such documentation. I've seen people on here who said they completed their rb25 swap for 8k. Later I posted a thread asking the major difference in rb25/26 swap. The general concensus was 2k. How that turned into 25k I'm not sure, but then again, I haven't swapped in an rb.

I know that burning oil is due to bad seals. Does this necesarrily mean that the motor is on it's way out, or could you drive a car like that for a while provided you changed the spark plugs and oil often?

Stokerz, the comment wasn't meant to be made directly at you. I have looked at my receipts, and have to keep reminding myself that horsepower is my anti-drug to justify the money spent Actually, I was just trying to stay in line with what stony posted earlier. I know it cost a lot of money to do an rb swap, but you don't have to have an unlimited amount of money. A 20k budget is still a budget. I don't like the fact that when someone wants to "budget" an rb swap people make statement's like "well if you want to do it on a budget you can't afford it." You don't have to be a genius to know that a high hp car needs brakes and suspension upgrades. There's no reason someone can't swap the motor in and then do those latter upgrades anyway. Actually I think it's the best way to do it IMO because once the motor is in and running, you have the inspiration to do the rest. Sorry for rambling, its just that when someone wants to search what the actual "swap" costs, its hard to really know when people add in all the obvious stuff with it, thats all. BTW I appreciate everyone's advice on here. It has been a real help to me.

You do not need to upgrade anything but the ecu to get 350hp from an RB26. Whats with all this rebuild, N1 pump etc. non-sense? I suspect someone on a budget (I use that word loosely) just wants to get a decent low mileage motor in and running. Sometime's its hard to figure out what a swap costs to complete when people make statements like "My swap cost 50k...and that included every nut and bolt, cryogenically frozen, not to mention the rebuild of my garage to accommodate the extra room needed and newly installed hydraulic lift", as if people can't already figure out the cost for new brakes and an r200.

Wasn't brad D offering to sell his for High teens not too long ago? And Rick wong's was listed for 13k. The problem is not that many people have actually done the swap. You'll be lucky just finding someone who is willing to sell their's.

First z's name was Zena (stock '73), this one's name is Zarah (modded '73).

You know, everyone told me the same about my left leg using the act 6 puck. Honestly, I can't really feel the difference! I do visit the gym 4x a week though, but I was really worried that I would be hating it. Of course, I don't think the 6 puck handles 1000hp so your's may be quite stiffer.