Jump to content
HybridZ

dmanzo57

Members
  • Posts

    194
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by dmanzo57

  1. > I have full voltage at 11 on the db37

     

    Pin 11 should be GND. Pin 28 is +12V

     

    > x13(off of 11) is the only place on the ms board I seem to get any signifcant voltage at.

     

    X13 should be floating. It is connected to pin 29 on the DB37.

     

    > why are 20 and 31 ground when they should be 5v?

     

    Just because you measure 0V doesn't mean they are ground. To check for ground, you should use a ohm meter to measure the resistance to a known ground pin.

     

    What is the voltage at pin 1 of U5? It should be slightly less than pin 28 of the DB37.

     

    :cheers:

    Don

  2. I would get the power supply circuit working before going any further. Check the polarity of the diodes and make sure you put enough solder to completely fill the barrels.

     

    :cheers:

    Don

  3. Power for the injectors should come from the Main EFI relay. For my V8, I ran two 14 gage wires from the

    relay, one for each bank of injectors, and split them out to each injector with 18 gage wires.

     

    The MS also gets power from the Main relay to pin 28 on the DB37.

     

    Don

  4. On my '78 280Z, I grouped every other cylinder in the firing order:

     

    INJ1 = (1,2,3)

    INJ2 = (4,5,6)

     

    Using alternating really smoothed out the fuel pressure pulses compared to simulatneous.

     

    I did the same on my V8 240Z, grouped every other cylinder in the firing order.

     

    Don

  5.  

    My brother and I have been talking about brewing our own' date=' but that takes money$$$. I know Don Manzo (dmanzo) brews his own and it is supposed to be pretty good! If I make it out to Gilroy this year, I'll pay him a visit.

     

    Davy[/quote']

     

    I just brewed a batch yesterday, 11 gallons. It's fermenting as I type. I'd be happy to walk you through your first batch if you decide to try homebrewing.

     

    Time for another Homebrew...

     

    Don

  6. This is the only thing about messing with experimental code like this.

     

    I know what you mean. I'm still using the 020i code. I haven't noticed any problems with it.

    I'm afraid to find out what's been added/fixed in the 021 code, I might be tempted to try it.

     

    If it ain't broke...

     

    Don

  7. I just finished installing some new(used) wheels & tires on my 240Z last night.

    The tires are a bit big for the wheels. They came with the wheels so I'll use them on the back

    and buy a pair of 245/45-17's for the front. The 275's barely fit on the front and the right side

    will rub when turning hard left.

     

    cam_0124.jpg

    cam_0125.jpg

    cam_0126.jpg

    cam_0127.jpg

     

    • Re-drilled 280Z stub axels and drums in the back. 5/16" slip-on wheel spacer
    • Z31 5-lug hubs, rotors, and calipers in the front. no spacer needed

     

    Don

  8. I would start with a fuel only install and then switch to fuel+spark after you have it running and tuned.

     

    I very simple install would keep the AFM and only require a new TPS, O2 sensor, and a vacuum line to the built in MAP sensor. If you ditch the AFM, you will need a new MAT sensor and will have to rewire the fuel pump relay.

     

    You can splice into the stock harness, or make a new one. Most of the wires you need are in the stock harness, except for TPS and O2.

     

    I used a TPS from a `85 200SX Turbo. I think others have used a TPS from a 240SX.

     

    Don

×
×
  • Create New...