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HybridZ

dmanzo57

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Posts posted by dmanzo57

  1. Hi Greg,

     

    I first installed my MS unit on a stock n/a '78 280z to test the MS and learn how to program it before installing it on my daily driver V8Z.

     

    Step 49: "Diode D8 is needed if ignition has a large offset bias" Do I need this?

     

    I did not install this diode and it worked fine.

     

    Step 51: "Capacitor C12 may need to be increased there are noise problems from the tach" Will there be noise problems with the stock tach?

     

    I did not have any problems with the stock tach.

     

    Step 54: There are two ways to set up the opto-isolator that recieves the signal from the ignition system. Which way should that be set up?

     

    I have the jumper installed from XG1 to XG2. No problems here either.

     

    Good luck with your install,

    Don

  2. The raw data is real, but the AFR data is not displayed quite right. This version of MSLVV was not configured to use the linear Vout from the Tech Edge WB unit. I've switched to a newer version, V2.2(I think), that lets you select from several different WB types.

     

    This data log shows it was very lean at cruise and spiked rich when I let off the throttle.

     

    I've got the linear output signal from the Tech Edge connected to the O2 input on the MS. I'm currently running the MSnS-Extra code which gives me a 12x12 fuel table and a 8x8 AFR target table.

  3. And I love your alternator pressure guage.

    I just hope it clears the shock tower! :)

     

    Your welcome, Davy. That was a close call. :shock: The only things new on the outside are

    the oil pan and a polished aluminum timing cover, and I did paint the plenum. I hope I don't

    have any oil leaks this time around. :roll:

     

    :cheers:

    Don

  4. Has anyone tried modifying a non-roller block to use OEM hyd roller lifters? There was a guy on ebay selling intructions, but I can't find the ad right now. I'm guessing you would have to drill and tap holes in the center of the lifter valley to mount the OEM lifter retaining hardware. Would also need some clearancing on the sides of the lifter valley to clear the OEM lifter guides.

     

    This could save some money vs. buying a set of retrofit hyd. roller lifters at $400.

     

    Any reason why this wouldn't work?

     

    Thanks,

    Don

    :cheers:

  5. John,

     

    It sounds like your persistence in fixing that oil leak really paid off. That

    new pickup doesn't look like it's going anywhere.

     

    Mine was a bit more than one quart low on oil when it started making noise.

    I've got the engine out of the car and on a stand.

     

    :cheers:

    Don

  6. I got under the car with a drop light and found that the two rear most rod

    bearings are toast. The rod caps and crank journal are black with burned oil. :(

    The bearings didn't spin, so maybe the crank and rods can be saved.

     

    I see this as an opportunity to put in a hyd. roller cam and a 2800 RPM stall. :D

     

    :cheers:

    Don

  7. My pickup originaly had a brace, but it wouldn't line up with any of the bolts

    on the oil pump, so I cut it off. :oops:

     

    I pulled the rear main cap and the bearing looked OK. I'll pull a rod cap and

    check a rod bearing before deciding what to do.

     

    Thanks, guys.

     

    :cheers:

    Don

  8. I was heading to work in the morning and I started hearing some noise from

    the engine. I looked at the oil pressure gauge and it read 0. :shock:

     

    I took the next exit off the freeway and pulled into a shopping center. My wife

    came to get me and I left the car in the parking lot. After work, I went back

    with my trailer and towed the car home. Here's what I found when I pulled

    the oil pan...

     

    oil_pump.jpg

     

    I'm going to put on a new oil pump and pick-up and hope for the best.

    Ah, the joys of driving a HybridZ. :D

     

    :cheers:

    Don

  9. I just installed a set of KVR Performance carbon-fiber brake pads and they squeal really bad when slowly stopping from about 10 MPH. Seems to be worse when they are cold. I sprayed the backs of the pads with that sticky blue stuff before installing. I had the same problem with a set of Hawk HP Plus pads. I switched back to OEM pads and they are nice and quiet.

     

    Is this normal for carbon-fiber pads? Is there anything I can do to get rid of the squeal?

     

    Thanks,

    Don

    :cheers:

  10. I've been driving mine to work for over a week now. Still a bit more tuning to do. Then I'll

    take it to the track and see how it compares to my old carb...

     

    stealth2.jpg

     

    coldair.jpg

     

    Holley Stealth Ram intake + fuel rails + FPR

    LT1 throttle body

    36 lb/hr injectors

    Walbro fuel pump

    MegaSquirt ECU

     

    All for about $1000 8)

     

    :cheers:

    Don

  11. You think I could do the whole thing for $1500 including an AFPR, new injectors, and new TB (I have the stock 42mm still)?

     

    I don't see why not...

     

    SR intake: ~$300

    SR fuel rail w/AFPR: ~$225

    52mm TB: ~$200 (do you really need this?)

    injectors: ~$250 (do you really need this?)

     

    I've got about $1000 in my setup, including the ECM(Megasquirt).

     

    (I have the stock 42mm still)

    I thought the stock TPI TB was 48mm. I read that the stock TPI/Lt1 TB flows about 670

    CFM. That should be enough to get me into the mid/low 11's.

     

    How close is the stock plenum to the hood?

    I haven't measured yet. The hood closes without contact. The SR is 10" tall from the top of

    the block. Just lay a straight edge across the tops of the fenders and measure down to the

    block.

     

    :cheers:

    Don

  12. I already have a TPI setup. Beyond the lower & upper plenums and the fuel rails, what else do I need to do the install?

     

    The Stealth Ram seems to have been designed to replace TPI manifolds. It uses a TPI throttle

    cable bracket and TPI throttle body. I believe the TPI engines use a small cap distributor,

    which you will need to clear the upper manifold. The fuel fittings are -6 AN with inlet on the

    left front and return on the right front. I don't know how compatible the water outlets are

    compared to stock TPI locations.

     

    I had a hard time getting the heater hooked up because the water outlet I needed to use was

    right under the fuel pressure regulator. I had to find a low profile 1/2" pipe elbow to clear the

    FPR.

     

    I got mine running on Monday and took it for a spin. :D I need to get an air cleaner before I can

    start driving it more to work on the tuning.

     

    :cheers:

    Don

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