dmanzo57

I installed the Extra code about a month ago. I'll have to check the version when I get home. I'm running fuel only, for now. The readme says to get the 020i.zip file and update it with 020i9.s19. Don

Hi Greg, I first installed my MS unit on a stock n/a '78 280z to test the MS and learn how to program it before installing it on my daily driver V8Z. Step 49: "Diode D8 is needed if ignition has a large offset bias" Do I need this? I did not install this diode and it worked fine. Step 51: "Capacitor C12 may need to be increased there are noise problems from the tach" Will there be noise problems with the stock tach? I did not have any problems with the stock tach. Step 54: There are two ways to set up the opto-isolator that recieves the signal from the ignition system. Which way should that be set up? I have the jumper installed from XG1 to XG2. No problems here either. Good luck with your install, Don

The raw data is real, but the AFR data is not displayed quite right. This version of MSLVV was not configured to use the linear Vout from the Tech Edge WB unit. I've switched to a newer version, V2.2(I think), that lets you select from several different WB types. This data log shows it was very lean at cruise and spiked rich when I let off the throttle. I've got the linear output signal from the Tech Edge connected to the O2 input on the MS. I'm currently running the MSnS-Extra code which gives me a 12x12 fuel table and a 8x8 AFR target table.

Here's an example... Don

I got AN fittings for the Walbro pump here: http://www.fuel-pumps.net/500.html Don

That's a hell of a way to get your first "kill" Don

I just hope it clears the shock tower! Your welcome, Davy. That was a close call. The only things new on the outside are the oil pan and a polished aluminum timing cover, and I did paint the plenum. I hope I don't have any oil leaks this time around. Don

Sweet! Don

I can hardly wait to drive the beast again! It won't be long now. Don

Thanks, guys. Don

Has anyone tried modifying a non-roller block to use OEM hyd roller lifters? There was a guy on ebay selling intructions, but I can't find the ad right now. I'm guessing you would have to drill and tap holes in the center of the lifter valley to mount the OEM lifter retaining hardware. Would also need some clearancing on the sides of the lifter valley to clear the OEM lifter guides. This could save some money vs. buying a set of retrofit hyd. roller lifters at $400. Any reason why this wouldn't work? Thanks, Don

ET = Elapsed Time in the 1/4 mile. It works with StarOffice too. Don

Congrats, Dan! Don

John, It sounds like your persistence in fixing that oil leak really paid off. That new pickup doesn't look like it's going anywhere. Mine was a bit more than one quart low on oil when it started making noise. I've got the engine out of the car and on a stand. Don

I got under the car with a drop light and found that the two rear most rod bearings are toast. The rod caps and crank journal are black with burned oil. The bearings didn't spin, so maybe the crank and rods can be saved. I see this as an opportunity to put in a hyd. roller cam and a 2800 RPM stall. Don

My pickup originaly had a brace, but it wouldn't line up with any of the bolts on the oil pump, so I cut it off. I pulled the rear main cap and the bearing looked OK. I'll pull a rod cap and check a rod bearing before deciding what to do. Thanks, guys. Don

I was heading to work in the morning and I started hearing some noise from the engine. I looked at the oil pressure gauge and it read 0. I took the next exit off the freeway and pulled into a shopping center. My wife came to get me and I left the car in the parking lot. After work, I went back with my trailer and towed the car home. Here's what I found when I pulled the oil pan... I'm going to put on a new oil pump and pick-up and hope for the best. Ah, the joys of driving a HybridZ. Don

I got my pump from them and it did not come with fittings. I ended up buying AN fittings from http://www.fuel-pumps.net/500.html . It's hard to believe that little thing flow as much fuel as they say. Don

I've got the KVR pads back on there now. Cleaned, chamfered, and greased. I went for a quick test drive and all seems well. The real test will be the 100 mile round trip to work and back tomorrow... Thanks again, Jon. Don

Well, I tried this on the Hawk pads and it didn't help. I'll give it a try on the KVR pads. They weren't nearly as bad as the Hawk pads to start with. I've got a set of Hawk pads on a '92 Olds and they work great and don't sqeal a bit. Don

Thanks, Jon. I'll give that a try. Don

I just installed a set of KVR Performance carbon-fiber brake pads and they squeal really bad when slowly stopping from about 10 MPH. Seems to be worse when they are cold. I sprayed the backs of the pads with that sticky blue stuff before installing. I had the same problem with a set of Hawk HP Plus pads. I switched back to OEM pads and they are nice and quiet. Is this normal for carbon-fiber pads? Is there anything I can do to get rid of the squeal? Thanks, Don

I've been driving mine to work for over a week now. Still a bit more tuning to do. Then I'll take it to the track and see how it compares to my old carb... Holley Stealth Ram intake + fuel rails + FPR LT1 throttle body 36 lb/hr injectors Walbro fuel pump MegaSquirt ECU All for about $1000 8) Don

I don't see why not... SR intake: ~$300 SR fuel rail w/AFPR: ~$225 52mm TB: ~$200 (do you really need this?) injectors: ~$250 (do you really need this?) I've got about $1000 in my setup, including the ECM(Megasquirt). I thought the stock TPI TB was 48mm. I read that the stock TPI/Lt1 TB flows about 670 CFM. That should be enough to get me into the mid/low 11's. I haven't measured yet. The hood closes without contact. The SR is 10" tall from the top of the block. Just lay a straight edge across the tops of the fenders and measure down to the block. Don

The Stealth Ram seems to have been designed to replace TPI manifolds. It uses a TPI throttle cable bracket and TPI throttle body. I believe the TPI engines use a small cap distributor, which you will need to clear the upper manifold. The fuel fittings are -6 AN with inlet on the left front and return on the right front. I don't know how compatible the water outlets are compared to stock TPI locations. I had a hard time getting the heater hooked up because the water outlet I needed to use was right under the fuel pressure regulator. I had to find a low profile 1/2" pipe elbow to clear the FPR. I got mine running on Monday and took it for a spin. I need to get an air cleaner before I can start driving it more to work on the tuning. Don