Heathhh

Augh, that is a bummer then. How much does it cost to check out the head at a good shop? Anyway that i and someone else could look it over to find a crack? I can look later at what model head it is. What if when i washed the engine down days before i started the car again, the milky oil is from water leaking in through the valve cover gasket where it was not properly sealed? That could also be where my vacuum leak problem source is at as well. I put pictures above. That seems plausible to me. If i get the head checked, how difficult is it to take all the "guts" out of the head such as the rocker arm assembly etc? Seems like this job is getting bigger and bigger now, and my wallet deflating like never before. I only have about 250$ to put towards it. Otherwise i should save it and put the job on hold till near middle of summer. I would need to buy another DD for summer, im in such a predicament...

Cam and Rocker arm assembly etc. So MILKY! There is also some rust on the cam lobes, is this normal? Valve cover. Looks fairly good. Faulty Valve cover gasket The circled area is of the poorly applied valve cover gasket. If you look closely you can see that the bolt obviously missed the gasket hole and made its own indent in the side of the gasket where the bolt missed. I am NOT pressing with my finger, but only pointing. This brings me up to a problem. What if the water i had used to wash the car had entered here where the gasket was not properly applied? That could be why i had gotten milky oil. But then again, at one point the oil looked as if it had a slight greenish tint to it when i touched it with my finger. Well, it looks like it wouldnt matter now as i should just replace all the gaskets since im already half way done. I wonder if the previous owner tried replacing the gasket, or if it is the factory applied gasket...PITA though either way that it is like that.

Im sorry i actually do not know what/who you are talking about. Just finished taking off the exhaust manifold. I am not able to push out much more money so things such as getting the head checked by a shop is not likely very much at all. I can take some pictures closely and some of you guys could check it As for the manifolds and valve cover, what is the preferred method of cleaning these pieces? I've heard brake fluid cleans well but is there anything else that is better or should be used? The insides of the manifolds look pretty carbon built up. I'll be taking off the valve cover/head etc this weekend when i have more consistent time to do work.

Had success with taking the Intake Manifold off today. Cut that EGR valve line right through. A little sloppy looking but im not worried about it right now. Here is a couple pictures altogether. Intake Manifold Removed 2nd pic Intake/Exhaust Mani removed I did not feel like resizing them, but i will do so some other time. Take a look if you would and just comment on how the side of the head looks with the intake removed. Ive been told it is best to replace the bolts and screws etc. Is it best to replace them through Courtesy Nissan or where else do you guys suggest that i purchase them from? Thanks guys. So far it is coming along as smoothly as it could...

Actually i have an idea. I could just grind that metal hose and cut through it, and then i could grind down the sides by closing the metal hole and temporarily seal the both ends of the hose by doing so with the heat created from the grinder. Well i will be doing that as soon as i get home today from school. By the way, i will also be posting pictures of my progress as well. Wish me luck guys, its a first time thing for me doing this much such as removing the top half of the engine. I will be having fun though, just wish i had access to all the tools! I'm a little short because im just now building my tool selection.

I just am having a ton of trouble taking that metal tube off by unscrewing it. Should i just take a saw and cut that sucker off? And then i could use some rubber hose possibly to just reconnect it later on, unless it would burn through with the EGR-Exhaust manifold heat...? I just do not have the resources right now to remove completely, but i can block it off which i actually have already done just by disconnecting those vacuum hoses to the EGR and then blocking them. That was before the gasket fail that i had done that.

Just got all the bolts off, and it was not as hard as i had thought or was experiencing yesterday. Somethin else came up though. Ran into a problem just now. 1982 280zx N/A if you guys dont recall, the EGR system is making me angry. So there is the metal tube that goes from the bottom of the EGR valve and then to the exhaust manifold. It does not mention this in the manuals if i need to unscrew this metal hose or not. By the looks of it, it does look like i need to unscrew it. Anyone have personal experience with this? Hate running into something that wasnt even mentioned the possibility of it being there and restricting the manifold from coming out.

I wont forget to wedge the chain, or replace the fluids, already made the note . Is the best way to get to those bolts to take the intake manifold off by taking out the heat shield, and then going right in between there with a ratchet wrench where the heat shield used to be?

Right now i am having trouble getting to those bottom bolts on the intake manifold. I tried going from under the exhaust mani to the bolts but cannot slip the ratchet in there, the ratchet is too big for the small space. I am on the last bolt/screw for the horizontal heat shield between the intake/exhaust mani but not enough room to slip the ratchet there either. I put the car up last night and am gonna go at it today with some wrenches to get that bolt for the heat shield. Is there enough room for a ratchet to get those intake mani bolts where that horizontal heat shield is at? Save me some trouble if you guys could also tell me the size of those bolts and how many bottom bolts there are for the intake mani. Darn haynes and OHC rebuild book dont even tell you where they are, size, and how many are down there to loosen up...kind of like buying half a manual if you tell me. I also took off the A/C pump (i cant think if thats what it is or not) but it did not free as much room as i would have liked it to. Any more tips or trouble i might run into by not getting enough information from the manuals?

There is always the Grand Rapids/Wyoming, 28th Street Metro Cruise. I believe they do so in August. I am planning on going there with my Z, almost positively but cannot be sure because it is still a ways off. I will be planning on going, you should plan on going as well and we would be able to meet up. -Just encountered a cracked gasket, believe it is the head gasket. Taking it all apart now. Came out of nowhere for me and the exact opposite of the outcome i was looking for when i replaced many hoses and cleaned connections to cure the vacuum leak.

That is what i was curious about. I see 3 ways of doing this. Is it necessary and crucial that i drain the oil now because there is coolant in it, or could i safely just let it be how it is, and until i get the head off and gasket replaced etc, then change the oil and be ok? Or do i need to drain the oil now, get the head off, inspected etc, gasket, head and everything else back installed, and then refill her up with oil? Or or, do i need to drain and change the oil now before i take the head off etc. On top of that, i was also asking any preferred methods of doing this job guys? Any advice before i really start to get dirty with it? Or any comments and questions about what im doing etc. So far i have removed the vacuum hoses, connections, thermostat housing etc, and am about to get under the vehicle to remove the bottom intake mani bolts. Just as the manual has listed in order.

I just edited the above post. Compression readings good, and other information added at the bottom of the post.

(Beginning Story) Well guys, i have done my fair share of trying to get my engine to run right and i have hit a huge road bump when i thought things finally were starting to bring themselves together for the better. First initial problem that brought me to ask for help is that the 82 280zx N/A that i have, when idling, if the pedal was depressed the engine would then rev, but then quickly shoot down to low rpm's where it wanted to die. It stuttered and then slowly built it's way back up to proper rpm's. So i have done my question asking and searching after i learned how mighty that search bar can be and learned that i have a few things to do before i can think my engine will work properly again. I did the tests and everything had checked out besides the vacuum (i have not done a few tests such as exhaust pressure back flow). I have replaced battery cables, dizzy cap and rotor, plugs, wires, most all vacuum lines, adjusted timing, proper fuel pressure, cleaned all connections i could find besides some connections such as the A/C and wiper fluid dispenser (unnecessary). And just so many more little things such as new fuses. Total was graduation day for me (my car) i thought. I put in the key, and turned and the engine started fairly well with just a slight hesitation from the starter as if the battery was a little low. The engine roared with life and i was excited believing i had finally cured the disease. (Official Problem Start) Smoke from the engine bay. Oh God, i thought. The smoke was coming from underneath the intake manifold were it looked to be coming from the exhaust manifold and the underneath surrounding areas. I thought possibly it was something such as some engine degreaser residue from the day before burning off. It smelled sweet. Oh no, coolant!? While the engine still running, i ran over to check the dipstick (jimmy, ). Milky oil. I took off the oil cap and saw milky oil flying inside there. I shut the car off immediately. I have already invested over 800$ in tools, body repairs, and anything in between. The problem that i wanted to fix was the out of wacko idle i experienced when the pedal was pressed. A vacuum leak, should be easy fix i thought. Well now i am at the point where i suspect the head gasket is leaking coolant in the engine, or possibly any other gasket. The oil had a slight green color to it. But i also thought when the other day i had cleaned the engine, i may have sprayed too much water on it. I let it dry completely so i think that additional information can be tossed. I am a novice at this, just a beginner. I have all the manuals and how to rebuild the OHC engine. I just need a little guidance. Just lead me in the direction i should be going please, so that i may fix this problem and get to enjoying my Z this summer ASAP because it was going to be my DD this summer. I need this fixed within a month definitely. Since i am a beginner, i do not actually know whether or not i should change the oil at this moment, or if i can just leave the oil in there and after i replace the gaskets etc then do an oil change. Is this okay? Or is it a bad idea? That is not my only question either or the only thing i want to know. I want advice on how to go about this and anything in between that can help me out some. How long does a head gasket replacement job take, estimated? Any preferred way you have about taking all of the stuff off, manifolds, lines, etc? So far since my sudden major disappointment, i have just taken off a few hoses and labeled them. It got too cold out and i went back inside on HBZ. The only thing i can be happy about at this moment about my car is that the body work is mostly all done (on the outside it's all done). And the car is very aesthetically pleasing at the moment. Another thing i'm happy about is that HBZ can help me out i'm positive . Thank you guys, community, team, Z owners. -Heath EDIT: Compression test read good all around BEFORE milky oil incident. Compression readings were around 160-175 with only amount of 5 difference through a couple of the cylinders, no more. It read good. Completely STOCK engine, with just over 102,000 miles. Everything ran okay, not great but not horrible either the day of purchase last year August-ish.

My bad. I scroll through sometimes and sometimes even forget the date they were posted and i bring up a dead thread. It is accidental and apologies for it.

I suggest checking valve clearances and while your in there check the rocker assemblies as well then too. If your lucky it could just be those are the issue. Possibly something fell into the crankcase while you blinked? Or you could sea foam it and then do another oil change and see if that cures it Could be some sludge in the rocker assemblies.

I thought idle speed for the S130 were factory preset and cannot be changed.

Yeah i agree, they are hiding. I never knew how many classics and vintage's are out here North Muskegon and even further up North. Just yesterday i saw a beautiful orange Charger, don't know what year but it looked 70's. Again about a few days ago, i saw a black Mazda Miata. Real nice, had some rear hatch louvers and the paint looked fairly new. Not too into those models but it's still a nice car. Down in GR where i had used to live, i haven't seen that many classics as many as i have seen here just within the last couple months (not counting scheduled events, but rather normal driving). I kinda of feel welcome here The guy right across the street has a 1970's mustang i believe. Likely a Mach 1, and in wonderful perfect condition. I hope someday maybe he will let me take a closer look cause mustangs are still one of my favorite cars. Anyways that is a side note of Michigan classic cars presence that are out there, just in hiding. This thread is slowly building to say the least. Hopefully this summer or sometime in the future a cruise can happen with some Michigan Z owners. That also reminds me, the 28th Street Metro Cruise is real nice place to see classics. Not too many classic Z's from what i have heard and seen though but many many other beautiful vehicles. I plan on attending this year if they have it. I'm done rambling now,

Alright sounds great then. I was not aware of it being a misleading statement from the suspension companies so it was better for me to ask than to ignore their "does not fit 2+2" statements. Thanks for the help on the side topic of the main topic.

sure that counts if you come up some time with your Z The West Michigan Z club from what i have seen is very poorly maintained and isn't much left to it. But thats my impression from trying to join the club online and talk to an admin without any luck. In fact, their last update was a year ago. I was really looking forward to taking a stroll with another Z owner... Reminds me too, since i live North Muskegon and haven't seen a Z up there besides myself i was astonished when i saw a "Devil Z" which had a pretty nice exhaust sound with some black fender flares and a red body. Some 240z or 260z from what i noticed shortly because it had stormed down my street while i was in awe with my jaw dropped.

Well then see you didn't read the post entirely i do not think then. If you have ever bought lets say, Tokico HP suspension kit you will notice that it says "Does not fit 2+2". In fact, here is a link Tokico HP Kit If you just scroll down to "Installation" you will read that it says, "Does not fit 2+2". Here is another site saying the same thing ProStreet Tokico Set and then just look underneath the picture and it says "Fits-Except 2+2". So my question was why is this and is there a set that "fits" 2+2 models. But that seems to be answered now because people claim that it does actually fit and that the suspension is the same. Yet one question of mine still does remain, why do they say that they do not fit 2+2?

Of topic but of concern, there is not a write up that i am aware of from searching for any of the following, S130 280zx suspension kit How To but write ups are available for previous Z gens. All i had done instead was ask (in the right place mostly, S130 suspension tech) about a 2+2 suspension kit and how come these kits are "excluded" for 2+2 models etc. I was then offered help by someone offering to write it up for the 280zx 2+2 so that was very appreciated nonetheless. I can assure you it wouldn't change the entire topic all the way over to 2+2 models swapping suspension etc, either. Rather just a side note of the main subject itself was mentioned here and briefly continued. How else or where else should my question have been brought up concerning "excluded" 2+2 suspension kits? Honestly, not trying to do a thread jack but rather asking a question about S130 suspension tech with a 2+2 model. I'll PM you BleachZee.

Well your right it did have a luul at the end.

Why would you go to the junkyard for fuses when you can buy new ones? Unless i am unaware of this hidden secret you have about junkyard fuses Eh, my fuses look good, but hey just like he said, that does not mean that they are. I will be replacing them :]

Sounds like something a beginner could do actually without a sweat almost. Yeah definitely, a write up would be nice. One of my strut tubes are bent in on the front. The previous owner had hit a curb, pretty hard It is riding toe out but it is not urgent to fix as of right now, i can still drive it but it is unevenly wearing my tire. The suspension kit i think that i want is the Tokicos from the majority of people that ride them say they do like them. I do not plan to race my car on the track as of now and not for a great while. It is a partial DD so just some nice handling and ride is what i want. I'll probably do the conversion sometime during the summer. Anytime that write up could be made (with some pictures as well) would be superb. In fact it would probably be a sticky if it was a good detailed write up for a How To application. I'll be sure to use it as soon as you make it BleachZee