Heathhh

I have a 1982 280zx 2+2 N/A and need to know whether or not my front strut assemblies are model specific or production date specific. My production date on my car is ( 1/82 ). When I had called the junkyard in order to find a new strut tower assembly since mine has a bent wheel hub affecting the camber, he asked me the production date of the vehicle to verify if his strut assembly would fit my car. I have had only one scrap yard ask me for this additional information out of the many that I called looking for the part. So that brought up a red flag for me. From my prior knowledge, I thought everything in the front end of the vehicle was compatible for all S130 years. So if anyone can shine light on my situation, that would be great. If I am confusing anyone, here is a parts diagram of the strut assembly. I am looking for part number: 53402k as pictured below. Or 53403k since I am looking for the LH passenger front assembly. Or even 54308k since that looks like the wheel hub and strut container tower without the spring etc. Thank you.

That's too steep for me, especially with shipping. I'll wait for something closer still. Thank you for your reply and leads.

I need the (LH) front passenger strut assembly / shock kit - whatever it is called. Parts diagram below. I live in Michigan, it would be incredible is someone lived in this state with these parts as well.... I'm also looking for rear hatch spray nozzle and the front air damn/valance for this car. Maybe some more odds and ends. But I really need that passenger strut assembly. If anyone knows of anyone in Michigan or nearby this state, or some leads for me, please let me know. Thank you. 1982 280zx 2+2 - production year (1/82) Here is a parts diagram for my car - the part I am looking for is the one that has the spindle with the shock tower. Whole assembly is 54303k (LH) but I really just need the strut container/spindle or wheel hub combined part. Which looks to be 54308k: -Heath

Okay so I received it of course, I was just in the process of testing all of its audible warnings. So far here is what I have got from it - right door ajar, lights are on, (im sure the left door ajar works) but I haven't heard the fuel level is low just yet. And I have run down the gastank past the 1/8 mark. The fuel level is low used to work when I had my audible warning work from what I remember. Am I just not low enough on the fuel level for it to activate that particular warning? It could be that the relay in the tank needs to be replaced, I understand that. Other than that, I am enjoying it.

A new ignition switch cured the problem. Thank you folks! Started up first twist of the key.

Will do these things tomorrow afternoon. Thanks guys.

1982 280zx Auto, N/A. For about 3 years now I have had issues with the key start on my car. Gradually it got worse. I used to be able to start my key with a couple times of turning the key to the start position, then down the road, eventually I had to turn the key to the start position more and more before the car would randomly start. Eventually, it got to the point where it was 50 key turns before I could start the car. Because of that, I got a push button start installed so that I can turn the key to the ON position, let the fuel pump hum and prime, then push the button and my car starts. I have used that method for about 2 years. I want to use my key tumbler to start my car again, properly. I apologize for being unintentionally funny in the video. I say "start" a few too many times and it's a little silly. Oh well. Not re-shooting the video. It is not only for troubleshooting purposes but enjoyment purposes as well I suppose. -Helpful Information- Watch the video: -A relay clicks in the glove box area when the key is turned to the on position, I think that means that the relay is good. -Sensor light comes on only when the key is turned to the start position, but car doesn't start. -If the key is held on the start position, the sensor light remains lit. Ask any additional questions. Thank you.

Payment sent. Thank you.

Hey thanks, I appreciate it. Have you heard any other warnings from the box, just to verbally tell me that the other warnings work? Also PM your paypal and I can send that over same day.

I can wait. Thank you kindly!

A picture please? Even a video or something of it working that would be amazing on your part. I would buy it immediately if you made a quick video of it saying some things, (i.e. lights are still on, fuel is low, etc.). I don't remember the amount of things that it says, 4-5 things... I appreciate your quick reply.

1982 280zx NA I accidentally broke my audible warning box awhile back, just after fixing it magically, I then stupidly broke it. So I am in the market again for one. Japanese or English. I don't really care, but I would love the Japanese speaking one. If you have one, please post here. Messaging is good too. If you know someone else with one that they are willing to sell, please guide them here, or me to them. One last thing - If you know how to repair one of these things, or know someone who does (mine has minor board damage, a burnt spot on the board) please let me know where I can get mine fixed etc. Thank you so much!

Ok I'm second in line then lol. I wonder if the jap one would actually work though with the states model 280zx. I don't see why not, but it could be wired differently, or have different connecting prongs etc.

Wow. This guy knew his investment would pay off. But 300,000? Judas Priest. That's past Lamborghini territory.

Just wanted to say a positive note on this clown. I bought some oil pump bolts from him, they were the right sizes and lengths and I just couldn't find replacement ones anywhere. I paid about 26$ I think for those 4 bolts, shipping included in that price where just the bolts was 18$. So it was a good purchase IMO only cause I NEEDED those bolts as I had accidently over torqued mine and they broke. I made that purchase as of 01/12/11. Otherwise a terrible purchase I'm sure If I could have found those bolts within the first 2 weeks of searching. So I thank him for selling me those bolts, maybe I should have looked harder (I really think I exhausted my resources though, looking around town and in state, and all auto parts places, but that was a while ago so I'm sure with the knowledge I have now of where to look, I could have gotten those bolts quite a bit cheaper). I think this guy is only good at selling "NOS" cast iron/steel things such as the bolts. Nothing more from what I'm reading although his stuff looks good. I'll beware about buying from him. I had to resurrect the thread for that reason. A laugh, and ONE positive thing.

I wanna know how much you'd sell that for too. I wanna get one of those audible warning devices, especially a japanese one. That would just be great fun IMO to hear that ramble. I'd learn japanese too at the same time. Heck now I want that. hook me up to.

I have some fenders on Ebay for sale: 280z NOS nearly perfect condition 280zx NOS PERFECT condition 300zx NOS nearly perfect condition ALL NOS, great finds and would like hybridz community to get in on them.

Lost my 1982 280zx gas cap while filling up...I have never done such a thing in my life till now. So I need a new one. I currently am waiting on someone to look for the key to their gas cap for sale, but if you have one and you have the key I'd like to buy it. I need a picture of the top and bottom of the gas cap, no rust please. If you don't have a key, well you can still post and let me know you have it. I wanted to come here before I had to buy one on Ebay brand new with key for 35$+. Remember, pictures are necessary. Thanks a lot!

Dont know If i can find any pictures, but I once fit in a twin size mattress out the backside of the hatch with it holding itself in just fine against the interior sides of the car and the strut towers. I had to push my seat all the way forward (this is the 2+2 model, too) and the bed was against the back of my seat and outside the hatch to where the hatch was completely horizontal-the bed didn't pass the length of the bottom of the hatch (if you can picture that). That was a tight squeeze. Fun hour drive with that. Passed a cop that was protecting some road construction guys, and the look on his face was, "I've seen weirder things than that. I'm surprised the bed fit in that little car." So I didn't get pulled over or anything, luckily I thought. That's the extent of me shoving anything in my car.

A couple thoughts. So much yellow i don't think i want to ever see another yellow car again. Everything about the body was tweaked, leaving no room for it to be adored for it's once natural beauty. Last thought, I hope it stays in Mexico.

I myself have the hardtop one, just as you do. It has taken me a lot of work to get it to where it is at, and theres a ton of work to be done in the future. As of now, glad to see someone with the same car as me I dont see too many 2+2's. So hows the car running and anything in between? Whats the story behind it and your story too?

I have broken a nozzle (EGR nozzle) on my 1982 280zx N/A on the Thermal Vacuum Valve/Switch (TVV). And then a buddy had broken another nozzle on the TVV, it was the main vacuum hose from the AFM boot. So i have one nozzle left on the TVV that is connected to the Dizzy line that T's with other hoses etc. I was thinking of just blocking it off, and the hoses that go to it. Is this a good thing to do or will i regret it because it will adversely affect my engine? I already have a vacuum leak somewhere or something that is causing my engine to poorly idle. The problem is my car starts good, but the idle is very strange. At startup all you have to do is help it a bit to stay at a healthy idle, and then it will be idling around 700-800rpm. But, then if you even tap the gas pedal once, the rpms will rise a tad, then drop to 300rpm and struggle to get back up. (anytime during running, cold/warmed up-doesn't matter) On the road though it runs great and accels nicely, but idles bad. The main line from the AFM boot to the TVV is a leak, but i am just not sure if i should block it off, or replace the TVV. I dont think it is the real problem for my idle though, but i rather ask for someone's knowledge to help me. Has anyone had a good experience using AutoZone's vacuum leak finder using the dye stuff that comes with it? Smoke machine? An unlit propane torch worked okay for me, but i still have the problem after replacing many lines already. So basically, this thread is concerning idle/vacuum leak, and the TVV. Thanks

Title says it all. I need one that works for a 1982 280zx. It has to be in good condition, and assure me that you have tested it using the directions in the haynes manual etc. Rock Auto sells one for 70+$ and i do not want to purchase at that price... I've had tons of bad luck with this car that just started looking good again, give me a helping hand ;] Can someone tell me if these valves/switches are even necessary? Can i rid of the TVV completely and not be adversely affected?