Mikelly

I bought the Centerforce DF unit in an 11inch setup for my 383/ TKO600 setup! Used the same setup when I had a T56 behind it and I never had an issue. Mike Mike

Jamie T. has one of JOhn's factory style 240Z hoods... I've seen it and it looks simply awesome. Mike

With mileages and wear and tear, I expect some things to happen... I know the Pump assembly is normal to die on GM trucks at about 150K miles... The brake line was a real surprise... I expect that a vehicle over 100K miles will start to have issues, but two within a week, costing me over $1000 it a bit much. I'll have to see how it goes over the next month or two... A Saab? Don't think it quite meets my towing needs as stated above. I'll likely get another Chevy, or a Dodge... The Ford truck prices are crazy stupid... I'll also likely be waiting until September to do something on a left over truck instead of taking a complete bath on mine just yet... Problem is that I really like this truck and it does everything well when it isn't broke down. Oh well... Mike

SO Yesterday afternoon I drive home from work, make a quick stop to pick up some aluminum brazing rods and a 10MM wrench. Run back out to jump in the truck and it cranks and NOTHING... No fuel... Nice... So I get out of the truck and don't hear that familiar "buzz" of the fuel pump. Call the wife, the tow truck and the best friend to align the ride home, the tow to a shop, and the loaner car again... Just went through this last week to the tune of $235 for the tow HOME and my own repair on the brake line... Now I'm at least IN TOWN, but the Vette is on the lift with a rear differential swap that is 70% done, and no time to wrap it up this week... So off to the shop it goes... Today I get the bill for it while it is still in the air... $710 total parts and labor... So I'm pretty pissed about this in general because I NEED transportation, and drive 62 miles each way... Pretty much fed up with NOT having reliable transportation... I like my Truck, but this is getting OLD... it is clean, has 118K miles on it and runs GREAT when it isn't blowing out rusted lines and NOT starting because of the fuel pump. I'm close to biting the bullet and buying a NEW truck, but I'd rather this one last a LOT longer so I can BUY an enclosed trailer... Mike

Hmmm, The things I really HATE about the Datsun Zcar, and I've owned 18 of them over the years, are the brakes, the suspension layout, the lack of adjustability of the suspension, and the lack of vendor support. What I'd recommend... Coil overs are a good place to start, along with a set of custom control arms. These will give you the ability to set the car up to handle better. I'd also recommend upgrading the brakes... Both front and rear to larger discs... They don't have to be massive, but if your budget allows, I'd be all over a setup from one of the vendors. I don't see "CHEAP" and brakes anywhere in the same sentance, since going with bigger brakes requires adapters for the calipers, different rotors and usually some machine work or specialty parts. Jamie's Hubs were a good alternative solution, since they rely on FORDS OEM Cobra big brake setup, which is really CHEAP for 13inch big brakes... OEM calipers and rotors are cheap, and a smart way to go. Any Zcar you buy should have the subframes replaced with a beefy boxed rail design... This is my opinion strictly, but every car I've done this on (Five of them over the years) has responded wonderfully and the single biggest positive change to any of them, with regards to making the car feel like it is on rails. Beyond that, wheels are your choice, but going to the five lug swap will give you a wide range of wheels to pick from, many of the OEM variety. If you do a coilover setup, you'll be able to run a 255-40-17 inch tire under the stock fenderwell with ease. ANything more and you'll either hit the strut assembly or stick out of the fender. Realistically, a budget for a clean Z and the mods I list above should be in the $10K range. Tires and wheels alone will set you back up to $1000 for a decent OEM like setup. Coil overs will cost $400 for the parts alone. Struts and bushings will add another $500 and new bearings, ball joints and tie rod ends (Which most any new candidate should have done!) will be another $500! That short list is $2400... We haven't discussed brake costs yet, or having sub-frames installed... So you can see that costs will rise quickly. Hope this helps! Mike

THes have supposedly been sold to another member here who has (friday night or saturday morning) sent payment via snailmail... I'll keep you posted. Mike

Mike, You guys are out having fun and he is flipping out over a "GO KART" Race? Shouldn't that tell us all something? This oldster is buying into his own legend (YOu know, the one in his mind...) and he needs to be removed from the track, or that venue as a whole... Plain and simple, if someone ever assaults you, which he pretty much did, you have every right to defend yourself and to press charges since it sounds pretty obvious he threatened you... GUys like that need to be "educated" as to how they should interact with others in public. :malebitchslap: He's compensating for something that is missing in his life for sure! Mike

MIne isn't gonna be a good example of a Zcar. It won't have much left of the stock Z, other than the shell, And at 500 crank HP, I'm not inclined to hand the keys to a complete stranger! I'd be more than happy to take you for a ride though...You might also be able to catch a ride in Pete Paraskas life's savings on wheels ! Come out to the next Zcar shindig at my place, meet the gang, shoot the bull and get a few rides... But most folks probably won't be inclined to let you drive these cars, as we're talking tens of thousands of dollars in investment, and priceless amounts of time taken away from other things in life. MIne should be running sometime over the summer, but drivable is another question! Mike

I did a LOT of research in this area... The Wilwood replacement parts for their GT series 13inch rotor kit we just put on Jim's car were about $340 for the pair of rotors. Jamie said that SUmmit Racing sold them much cheaper, so that is an option. I don't know who Ross sources his rotors through, but you'd want to find out and budget for them.. If they are Coleman Racing, then they won't be to bad. However, If they are something gucci, it could get expensive... The calipers from the kit are cheap, OEM, and easy to rebuild. So you should be able to maintain them for a long time. The only reason I went with Jamie's setup over Ross' (And I've got both in house right now, selling one) was the OEM replacement rotor. I"m using them on the Vette and used them on our Mustang and they wear pretty good and last a while. If you use agressive race pads, you will eat through any pad quicker. Mike

Uh, I was thinking more along the lines of replacing the TRUCK! Already have tubing benders and flare tools and been doing that stuff for going on two decades! Mike

Well I'm all ears for a suitable late model replacement for my GM product that can tow 10K pounds... However, Coworker of mine informed me today that his 99 Ford F150 did the SAME THING (Brake line rust failure) to him back in March. Not like we're living in the rust belt or anything... Mike

So guys, here is the deal... I need some cash ASAP because I fell into a deal on an enclosed trailer... So I'm in a pinch. I have a pic of one of the assemblies I'm selling Here in the forsale folder: http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z What I have for sale is this: MML Aluminum hubs with five bolt ARP studs, loaded with premium wheel bearings, and a complete 13 inch big brake two piece rotor setup WITH brake caliper brackets... What you will need is the PBR Cobra calipers and brake lines... This is ROss' BIG BRAKE and ALUMINUM HUB KIT for MUCH cheaper... The kit is slightly used as it was installed on Jim's car to be rolled around. That is it... ZERO MILES ON IT... I gotta move this brake setup ASAP... First $700 takes it and I cover shipping, but it has GOT TO GO ASAP or I will EBAY IT!!! Mike

YOu can drive mine... Bring 10 of your buddies and your girlfriend... She can sit in the passenger seat and make "VROOM VROOM" noises while they push! So when do you want to take this test Push, 'er RIDE? I'm here all week, Don't forget to tip your waiter and barstaff! Mike

Anyone with a good number for John Williams @ Williams Machine, Please give me a number! Need to chat with John about making me some turn buckles... Mike

Right Now!!!

I'm in the same boat Tim, minus the clean paint... my shell is in VERY good shape and I'm not sure I could gutt the fenders and flare it... Hard choice... Mine is more critical maybe, due to the track day thing... I need some meets under there! Mike

Brake related, but not Z related... My 98 Chevy Z71 4X4 just suffered a brake line failure due to RUST... This is the second Chevy K series I've had that this has happened on... The line failed in Herndon and it cost me $235 to get the truck to Fredericksburg. I'm pretty much wondering if it is A: GM Crap, B: The crap they are using to melt the snow now, or C: dumb luck, but a 1998 truck in this vehicles condition shouldn't have a brakeline that looks like it was fished out of the ocean! Crappy run of luck I'm having... Mike

Oh man you guys slay me! Alex is suspiciously silent... Be very Affraid... Mike

"Loss budget" Not THAT is funny... LOSS budget is a new term on me, but let me enlighten you to that which you speak of... Stuff a V8 in the car, and you have a unique $5000 car... Yup, you can pretty much take a $10000 clean, otherwise unmodded Zcar and CUT THE VALUE in Half! So what are your plans for this car? I hope you don't aspire to DRIVE it in some "racing" class, because the only cars it will be legal to compete against will have it beat by at least 600# and a LOT of power to weight ratio... Yea, I'm a bitter man! The car will be fast if you do everything right, and upgrade the brakes and suspension... But as Tim said, Tripple the cost and multiply your time schedule by 5 and you might get CLOSE to your goal... And the last thing I can tell you is this: Do a SERIOUS self analysis... Are YOU honestly capable of completing this with ZERO help? Reason I ask is this: Everyone you bank on "helping" you could vanish tomorrow and THIS PROJECT is a BIG one, no matter what others say... I hope you are prepared and know the right end of a screw driver! Welcome and Good luck! Mike

Good driving indeed! Thanks! Mike

This car looks just like the car I picked up for Ron Jones for $1400 and the car was THAT CLEAN! He took it to Connecticut, decided he didn't want to keep it, then tried to sell it back to me for something like $3200 or some such non-sense... But the car was tip top and in one of the BEST conditions I'd seen an original unrestored Z in some years. $12200... UH this guy needs to put down the crack pipe! I'll be sooo glad when mine is complete... Mike

Dan, Trust us, you have a reputation! Mike

No! I'm using the piles I bought and had ceramic coated... Besides, what else do I have to bitch about? Mike:wink:

Oh christ that was good Alex... That was GOOOOD! I'll pay the postage! Mike

Well based on the info you collected Pete, It sounds as if the S&S solutions would be a good fit IF THEY HAD GROUND CLEARANCE!!!!! DAMN! Mike