Mikelly

Click on my link to the home page to see what mine used to be. Click here: http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z to see what I'm up to now: Motor: SBC 383 Stroker Heads: Dart Conquest 205/160 valves Valvetrain: Roller Hydraulic with 1.5 Roller Rockers. Oil Delivery: Canton Pre-luber Accusump, Canton Billet filter relocated to front of radiator, 8-an lines, Canton roadrace pan to be ordered, Mellins Hi vol. pump. Induction: Cutler FI Intake & 1000CFM TB, 42# Injectors, still looking for computer and controller, but will be laptop programable. Fuel Delivery: Bosch FI Pump, JAZ/ Summit Fuel safe-22gallon unit, 8-an line and 1/2 aluminum line up and back, Canton Fuel filter, Cutler Rails and regulator. Trans: T56 with Centerforce DF Setup with Centerforce 153 tooth Flywheel. Rest of Drivetrain: CV Axles connected to R200 LSD model with 3.7 gears, custom drive shaft and safety loop. Cooling: Griffith Radiator, Edelbrock aluminum waterpump, RobertShaw Hipo thermostat Suspension: Ground Control Coil Overs, Eibach Springs, Suspension Techniques Sway Bar up front, Energy Suspension bushings, ZF Racing Control Arms and TC Rods Brakes: 12.2 inch X 1.25 thick veined and vented rotors on custom aluminum hats up front with Outlaw 4000series calipers. Rear use 1985 300ZXT 5 lug rotos and wilwood Dynalite 2 piston calipers, no e-brake, but brake lock switch and proportioning valves are in place. Wheels/ Tires: 5 lug conversion to use Cobra R style 17X9.5 wheels with 255-40 and 275-40 Bridgestone RE730 tires. Safety: 21 point cage including a trunk built around the rear hatch to protect cockpit from fuel delivery system. Phoenix Fire system to be ordered, TRW CAMLOCK 5 point harness to be used, Corbeau A4 seats with mandatory Seatback brackets to be used during races, nomex fire suit, and approved Simpson Bandit helmet, along with gloves and boots to be purchased. Body: G-NOSE, 2 inch flares up front, 2.5 inch flares in the back, sheet metal wing to be purchased for the rear, raingutters cut flush, fuel door and vents smoothed. Gauges: Autometer Phantom series all around. Did I mention I plan to have a FULL INTERIOR, CD CHANGER AND HEAD UNIT, and AC when the car is finished??? Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC [ October 09, 2001: Message edited by: Mikelly ]

Guys, I didn't get much of anything done this three-day weekend since I have been sick with some kinda flu bug. I'll pick up where I left off on the control arms hopefully tomorrow, if not today. I'm still waiting on small parts to come in From Williams Machine to complete the kits but I spoke with John and they should be in hand by Friday of this week. Hopefully I'll be done with the first four sets by then and be able to just box them and ship them. Mike

Check the link here for the HybridZ store. Mike Gibson can work with you on Shipping from Canada. His parts and kits are superior. Mike Kelly

Guys, When I got my Cutler FI hardware a busch pump came with the system. the numbers on it are:0-580-254-984. There is another number below that one: 466-15. I need to know what this pump will flow and if it will be OK pushing 42# injectors on a V8 383 application. Mike

Guys, save your money and wait until you can afford tyo upgrade properly with parts that fit. Trust me here. You will end up buying a lot of "OK" brake parts and in the end either be stock with boxes of parts (Like me) that won't fit, or spend 3 times Mike or Ross' setups to make "OK" brakes work on your car. Mikes full 12 inch/outlaw kit is a nice FRONT set up and virtually fade free. For about $1000 you could get all the brake you would ever need. And I know Ross has some options as well. Check around, but don't waist your time with that OE stuff. Just my .02$ Mike

Thanks for the vote of confidence Jake. Jim lives about 40 minutes up the road from me. Believe it or not, I'm REALLy interested in what Jim finds out here, because I was bouncing back and fourth on this VERY issue. Jim, when they come in let me know. Might come up and give you a hand AND see how they turned out. For the cost and customer service this may be the way to go. Also, Jim, if they bring that flang far enough down, why not have some O2 bungs added to the flange? Bet they could do that and then you could just cap the ones on the downtube. Let me know if you want an extra set of hands. Mike

Jack, Buy it. Sounds like a deal. If you keep it for a few years and either sell the car or upgrade the engine, there you'll have a good candidate for a Z when you get out of school and make REAL money! And you are still welcome here. Mike

Damn, John beat me to the punch... and he is right. In light of the Dale Earnhardt Crash findingd (And more likely what wasn't said in the public report, but was said behind the scense) several santioning bodies are looking at completely changing the safety requirements and "Strong" Recommendations have already been handed down as to who does what in regard to safety equipment. NASCAR played down the HANS Device publicly because they didn't want a blood bath in the press, but behind the scenes it was "STRONGLY" Suggested that the drivers revamp their safety equipment. I had decided on the A4, but will be taking a 2nd look into seats over the winter. I'm almost ready to drop the car BAck on the ground and will start on the interior probably before December. I even worked on the car tonight for a bit.... Mike

OK, the new pics are up at the above listed link. I'm confident that this new unit is bomb proof. I'll be constructing these starting this weekend and I'll work to ship them as soon as I can. They require about 6 hours worth of work per pair, so the turn around isn't as quick as the fronts by a long way. I'm expecting some tooling by Friday that will make cutting the tubing MUCH quicker (Table mounted pivoting porta-ban saw & A Chop Saw) and I hope to be able to reduce the time by a bit. I'm also waiting on some left hand threadstock... One end of the unit will be bushing bolt for the inner pivot will be left hand thread and have a stud and nut as opposed to the other end, which will have a right hand thread BOLT. Mike

Yup DANNO, all original type hardware works... Tip on installing the external bushing that the spindle pin runs through: Heat the metal before youinstall the bushing, then slide the bushing in, and when it is in, run cold water on the part and the bushing will be set. I recommend all NEW hardware including poly bushing kit and spindle pins. Mike

Allen hasn't contacted me, but I wish he would... I need all the exposure I can get. Any help from others in the business would be great! I welcome all! Mike

Just weighed it for you, and a factory unit without bushings weighs 10 pounds, and my unit with bushings installed is 15 pounds per side, so it is a 50% increase in weight. I use .125 wall thickness tubing on the main frame, and the gussets are also .125 thick. The main tubing is boxed 1.5 inch square. I can't safely get these to be lighter and adjustable without moving to a TIG welding setup and using cromoly tubing, but these units do offer a BUNCH of adjustability. I'm not selling enough to make it worth the added expense at the moment. Price will go up November 1 to $550 PLUS shipping, because they are costing me more in materials and time to make, and will be More expensive to ship. Mike

That's right guys, I can now offer the same solutions to front end adjustability to the Datsun 510 Crowd, to include control arms and TC Rods, all costs being the same! You 280ZX Fans will also have a solution in the not so distant future. I have a set of control arms being shipped from ZBarn this week and I plan to experiment on those and should have a product picture available next month! Stay tuned! Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC

Guys, Just finished up in the shop on the gussets for the control arms and I'll have a final product picture up tomorrow night after I pick up some flat stock and weld up the sway bar mount. Here is the game plan for this weekend: I plan to devote the three day weekend to knocking much of the list down and getting these out the door. I have the initial order of four sets in house and the machinist sent a supply of parts the Friday before I took off on My hoeymoon,l and I'm expecting that today or tomorrow. So I plan to ship out four sets by early next week to: Rubin, Mike M., Danno, and Mark I. The next batch to go out will hopefully go out the next week to cover Tom and Craig. That will leave me with enough stock on hand to sell two additional sets. I'll have pics up tomorrow night on http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z2001 and guys I really appreciate your patience. Just a heads up on what you will see: Gussets at every square corner, and a boxed brace at the outboard pivot, as well as the much requested sway bar mount. These things take a BUNCH of extra time to weld up, and are heavy, but it will be worth it, I promiss. Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC

Jim, Summit has Holley part number 9901-101-1, which is their version of a Victor JR already drilled w/ injector bungs in place for your injectors and sensors for the sum of $260. Good price based on what I was quoted to get my intake drilled and injector bungs welded on. Mike

240Z Turbo, All I know is Zdr. has built some very impressive Zs and he was MY ONLY competition back in the mid 90s while racing Solo2. During one season in the late 90s is Caramel colored Z stopped showing at events and when I asked, he replied that the Main Cam bolt (The large unit in the center of the gear threading into the center of the cam) walked out several times, and eventually came out far enough causing the cam gear to walk past the keyway. I can't speak to what he may or may not have done, but Dave is one sharp dude normally... All I know is he claimed that his Malvern prepared N31 head was completely trashed because of his Malvern adjustable cam gear... I couldn't figure out how it kept bamcking out... Mike

Shane, Might want to call ZDR. in Roanoke, Va. He had the Malvern Racing adjustable unit on his F Prepared car and couldn't keep the unit tightened... Cam gear bolt kept backing out... eventually wiping out a complete built 31 head. Mike

Dan, You're Killing me. OK, I'll bite... Send me your honest and true assesment about it, and Can you get me the same price??? (Best I could do was $850 for ECU And harness). Mike Kelly

Randy, I have all the pieces. My intake is like a Victor Jr. but is made by Cutler. It already has the Bungs in it and I have 42# injectors that have been flowed and matched. It is for a 383 stroker small block Chevy. I have the Regulator, but still need to decide if the Bosch fuel Pump I currently have will be enough to feed my motor. I took a look at the old HALTEC Dos program and is wasn't very friendly to use.... Mike

Guys, I didn't forget you guys. To say the least, I was very busy this weekend. I did get to do some welding the morning before my wedding, so I am working on stuf. I changed the Jig to get a more exact fit to the strut assembly, and I'm confident I've got something that will work. I'm working the sway bar mount and I'll be finishing it up and should have something to show you guys before I leave for my honeymoon on Saturday. I'll be finishing this project up when I get back, and now I'm pretty sure I can make 3-5 sets in a weekend, so turnaround should be fairly quick, once I get the sway bar mount sorted and the final gussets run. I did run the unit by the local fabrication shop and the structural design checked out with the engineer on hand. The guy was very complimentary about the overall design and adjustability of the unit and the beefy layout. He did give me advice on gussets and added fortification that I'll incorporate. Mike

OK Guys... I'm REALLY Drawing close to a purchase of a CPU, software, and wiring harness for my project.. I know people have REALLY almost talked me out of Holley's new System. So what's left??? Accell DFI? MOTEC?? I want data logging, and as much tunability as possible. Here is what I have so far: Port injected single plane intake, 42# injectors, 1000CFM TB, fuel rails, FP Regulator, all sensors except 02 and bung, 166MHZ Laptop. I know I still need a distributor, and I have an MSD 6AL box. Motor is a 383 stroker with roller valve train and aluminum 217cc chamber 2.05/1.6 heads. Other than that, I need the brains behind the operation. I don't want to deal with a crank trigger, and I'm not sure I want to deal with the Electramotive System, as I hear it is a pain to tune, and initial setup isn't pretty. However, I need to narrow it down and I need real user experiences...Ross, My machine had to be rebuilt, so I lost all my links... Any EFI tech pages would be good.. All, please add usefull data to this discussion. Saying a unit sux without real technical data to back it up won't do me any good, so please, lets stick to facts! I GREATLY appreciate all input. My timetable is this: Finish up the prototype control arms, build the initial 6 orders and ship them, and then focus 100% on MY CAR!!! Jim's car at my wedding really did me in! Thanks for your help guys! Mike

Rob, Not sure of the price increase, but it will take into account an additional increase in shipping cost as well... these suckers are gonna be a bit heavier. To those of you that have pre-paid, Please accept my apologies for delay in completion of the products. Yesterdays national events will certainly impact my completion of the arms within the original timeline. I suspect that I won't get much further on these this week as I am getting Married Saturday. I hope to have a 100% completed unit done by early next week. Mike

Yup, there will be a provision for the sway bar mount... I'm working on that now, which will also give additional support at the outward mount point. I'm weighing options on the material type, be it round, square, Channel, or flat steel. It will have a provision for the sway bar pickup, don't worry. Mike

Go to: http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z2001 The unit is still in works, but you can see the basic design now. Mike

I thought I was the consumate gentleman! That's my story...