Mikelly

Here is the scoop from the "ZF Racing LLC" point of view... Camberplates are not in my opinion a street part. The aluminum adjustable bushings are a high replacement part and don't allow for true rear camber adjustment, but do give you toe adjustment, again being made of aluminum that wears rather quickly. Solid links, I have driven on them for over 10 years without any notice of harshness. What do I mean about Solid links? Heim joints. They work, they work, they work. Did I mention that they work? Now, my Rear arm design, copied directly from Simon, doesn't use them. The reason being that, as seen in the Arizona Zcar setup, adjustment isn't an easy process. When I polled people in the Zcar community, the chief seller for switching from factory parts was the guarantee that the parts would be fully adjustable while remaining on the car. Mine do that. In the rear, you can even use factory style poly bushings. This eliminates noise, harshness that some may feel, and doesn't mean you have to hack off the tops of your strut towers to install camber plates. Stony, I guarantee that you will be 100% happy with these units... Thats all I can say at this point, since they are still in pre-production phase. However, These parts are being built on a Known design. When I get a set complete, I'll post pics. Mike Kelly ZF RACING LLC [ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: Mikelly ]

Scottie, Pull me off the list... I'm gonna try the bolt on route... Mike

OK, OK Sign me up.... Mike

David, Don't sweat it man... I was more looking for the space in the garage than getting rid of it, however, the extra few bucks is also nice... Well I guess I'll let the cat OUT OF THE BAG.... Jamie T. and I will most likely be forming a little business venture molding fiberglass. This little venture will start in earnest after the wedding, as I plan to funnel about $1000 from ZF Racing towards supplies for forming fiberglass molds. Hopefully all will go well with these plans, and although Jamie and I have spoken about this, this is the first official word of this plan! Looking forward to working with Jamie on these parts...including the front end.. So David, don't sweat it, hopefully we will have several more front end styles to sell in the near future! Mike

Well I thought I was anyway...Guy backed out the night before, after I loaded the parts up on the truck and was ready to head to the Va/ NC border... Oh well.... Mike

Your best bet is to go to a library and do a search on aerodynamics, or order from one of the online book stores after searching. I've read a bunch about this issue, but at 0730 in the morning none of the titles is coming to mind. Now, onto the other discussion, I had a 1974 260Z that I was able to get to 168mph without aid of turbos, supercharges or the big blue bottle. I used high HP, relatively high gearing and a 3 mile long straight with a buddy holding a radar gun at the other end. We set up comms with cell phones to make sure this little test wouldn't land me in jail and it was done at night to add to the stealth nature of our test. It also added a bigger danger factor. The car got to 168mph using headlight covers, a cowl induction hood, the msa front spoiler/bumper combo, with the msa side skirts and rear bumper/valance kit. Every panel on that kit showed stress at the seem between the body and the panel after that run. Most recently I had my v8 Z up to 155 with no trouble at all, in 6th gear pushing 3750RPMs and the rear whale tail showed stress cracks at the seam next to the rear hatch. Lots of presure is applied against these panels when going full tilt boogie. If you plan to go that fast in an L6, be forewarned, I had over 6K$$$ in head work on that motor. Thank GOD it was a sponsore who did the work...I only paid for parts! Goodluck! Mike

No Cores are needed! Mike

Well I didn't have much luck on Ebay, but I did manage to sell the FI wiring harness and ECU I bought with my Cutler system... Got $300 for it, which means I'm down to about $130 out of pocket for the intake, 1000CFM TB, 42# injectors, sensors, fuel rails, and FP Regulator!!!! Mike

Well it seems that I'll be getting rid of the MAS products fiberglass front end this weekend...At a loss. The reason I'm selling it cheap is to make room in the garage for space to work on control arms, fiberglass stuff and my project car... On a sidenote, I'm working out the particulars with one of our own members to setup a side project to develope and sell fiberglass parts in 2002. More news to follow! Mike

Gang, Plan on sending payment to me on about August 1st and I'll get them out to each of you through out the month of August as the orders come in. I plan to have all stock in house by August 1 so I can make them and get them out within that timeframe. I do take paypal in the form of both Visa/Mastercard and E-check. Mike

Crowned One, I already sell the fronts in the HybridZ Store. The rears are in developement but should be in production in early August. Mark, You are number three on the list! I have a couple guys who has pre-paid for the rears who will get the first units, then you are third! Mike

Actually I think that was someone else who had the fiasco.. I just dropped mine into the pocket and welded it up and now have a little run out on the overall disc itself, which may not mean that the unit is out of center at all. What I need to do is have it checked properly when the whole assembly is back in the car. Mike

Well it had been three weeks and I hadn't heard from my Buddy at the machine shop. Seems he has been off making REAL money machining some stuff for a several $100,000 contract, so guess who got put on the back burner? Well, yesterday he advised me that he is going to knock out several hundred pieces of my stock and inventory it for me in house... Once everything is done, all I need to do is pick up the phone and order the pieces and within two days they are shipped. What this will mean for me is that I will within the next four weeks be able to have a MUCH quicker turn around when folks place orders. I hope to have everything in house by 1st week of August to build the control arms... The Jig is done, I just need the matterials to complete the job! ZF RACING LLC Mike

If you haven't found a donor car yet, I'd recommend finding one with the requisit R200 already in it. This also gives you the benefit of larger and stronger stub axles. The R200 is a much heavier duty unit, as are the axles & Half shafts that work with it. Mike

NION, don't be affraid to hurt this guys feelings... Your hard earned money is just that...YOURS! Based on the info you provided us in your posts and nothing more (Since Nightrider383 is right, we haven't seen it) I say run. The guy claims several things that don't make sense, and again, I know of nobody that does a tear down of a motor and doesn't replace one of the most vital parts in it that helps preserve and control compression... YOUR RINGS!!! Seriously, I can tell you only what I know about Chevy motors, and that is this: GM 5.7l Truck motors from 88-95 did not come with aluminum heads or roller valve trains. They were generic 2 bolt units, and were not VORTECs. They are nice motors that you can buy BRAND NEW WITH A WARRANTY for about $1200. I just saw on e-bay recently where a guy got a computer and wiring harness for his tbi motor for a cool $75, so if you want to go TBI truck motor, no big deal, do it. Just don't waist your money on what this guy is selling. Mike

Not 100% sure it won't, but I'd like to be safe and have a spare part sitting on the shelf is possible.... I need to have this one put on a laith and checked for zero balance... It may be fine. Mike

Matt, Having suffered a broken right collar bone, and a left seperated shoulder, I fully sympathise with your pain... I remember sneezing once right after the left side injury and I literally cried from the pain... Let the tears flow when you need to, its perfectly natural, and noone who is anybody important will think any less of you. You need to get that nerve issue resolved, as that is the source of ALL your trouble. Thank god all my injuries over the years (33 broken bones, including a fractured skull in 1998) have left only minor inconveniances in living my life.. Almost all of my injuries come from racing mountain bikes or road cycling, although a couple werefrom car accidents.. Soft tissue injuries SUCK. Hang in there, and buy yourself a good SNAPON flare kit...mine works great and does the flares, both single and double, very well on the first try. Mike

The fan OUTSIDE the radiator is ABSOLUTELY blocking airflow. I'd take it off and drive the car around for a short 15 minute trip and see what happens... With the shroud and a 7 blade haden flex fan, I was able to keep mine to about 180 degrees in rush hour traffic. I've had several guys say that the Griffen wouldn't work in a 26 inch wide setup, so if you order one, get the 24 inch unit, and go with the 1 1/4 inch tubing. They sell for less than $200 all day long! Mike

If you look over on arizonazcar.com and look at their yellow Z with the Gnose and wide body kit, I think the way they rounded the spoiler around on that car is exactly how I want mine to wrap, and then an adjustable splitter under that... Mike

Put me down for another set, as I think one of mine may not work... Mike

No roller setup in the truck motors... I just rebuilt the 350 that is in my 93 GMC, and also you are right, no VORTEC heads or intake... I think you should RUN NION!!! Sounds like the guy is making false claims on what the motor is, which would lead me to believe that he has not done the work claimed. Also, I don't know anyone who tears a motor down and doesn't put new rings in it... $30 worth of parts that will insure proper comression or ruin a new rebuild... You should steer clear of this guy based on what you just typed in your last post... Mike Kelly

John is right... Having the LSD unit has nothing to do with gearing... The area LSDs realy work well in is with regards to cornering performance and handling in the curves. If you break loose 3:7 gears on an LSD equipped rear, you will break loose 3:54 gears in a non LSD equipped unit. Driver skill is KEY with ANY high torque/ high HP vehicle. The number one area we always overlook, just in front of upgrading brakes, is driver skill... The "I built it, so of course I should know how to drive it" theory just isn't so... Mike

I spoke with Ed and Company about my engine build and we used 5.7 rods rather than go with the 6 inch rods. Everyone I spoke with during my investigation process told me exactly what is being stated here... 6 inch rods are nice if you plan 7000RPM shifts, but don't realy ADD power, but help with side loading at higher revs. The guys at Isky are sharp, informative, and well versed in small block chevy builds.. I spoke and e-mailed back and forth with them several times during my build process and they actually expressed interest in seeing my car when it is done, before I go to the Silver State Challenge... Mike

Well I got the Gnose from Georgia and it was pulled from a mold and mountedon a car, and unfortunately had been dropped and cracked in several places... I'm gonna fix the cracks and then I need to decide If I'm gonna pull a mold for a Jig of this unit. I will probably do it just to see what happens, but Man it looks like work! I went ahead and hung one of the steel fenders and the nose on it, and it comes close to lining up, so it should work out well. Pics to come soon... Mike

Dan this thing looks awesome! And I leave in the morning for Atlanta to go pick up a Gnose for cheap... Oh BABY! I can't wait!!! Looking good man! Did you paint it yourself or just do the body work??? Mike