Mikelly

I paid $100 for the pair from Zbarn, but both boots are cracked... Might be sending them back, I suspect I'd send anything I get to RAXLES anyway, so I might as well use what I got... and have them overhauled.. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

According to the 2000NHRA Rule book the hoop must be within 6 inches of the front U joint... I'm in the middle of making mine work as well...Gonna probably weld it to the subframes... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I have the flowtechs, and I like them a lot, but I'd be willing to sell them if you want to stay in the 1 5/8 size range... Mine are ceramic.. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Chris has had more dialoge with Simmon than I have, but the bottom line on the type of control arm he made, and we came up with (Basically identical in design theory) is costly due to the lack of a significant part that needs to be machined. Simmon did an excellent job on his, and if he could find a source for that little adjuster, I'm sure he would turn them out by the dozens! Good luck, and I'd be happy to shipp a set to ya, but yes they would cost a bit more due to the exchange rate and shipping to the land down under... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Adam, You may already know this, but for the benefit of others: -6 = 3/8" line -8 = 1/2" line What you will need to do is get a flare tool and some tube nuts and sleeves for the same size aluminum tubing, and then you will need to use AN Flare adapters to join the aluminum line to the braded hose. This is where using AN fittings and aluminum line becomes quite expensive. Example: 25 Ft of 1/2inch aluminum line @ $27.95 (PN: RUS-3927), One pair of sleeves @ $3.75 (PN: AER-FCM3672) and tube nuts@ $5.25 (PN: AER-FCM3676) and two -8AN Flare Adapters @ $6.25 each (PN: AER-FCM2053) and just to switch to this aluminum line you have just spent about $65.00 with shipping included... Now you have to finish up from the tank to the filter, and then to the pump. And then from the front of the line to the regulator and onto the carb... I also incorporate a return line of the smae size, multiple bulk heads, and dual -6 line from the regulator to the carb. From there, I also use -8AN from my oil filter relocator mount, up to the remote filter and back, and also T'ed off to the accusump. I've spent a bunch of money in AN fittings and -8 and 1/2 inch line... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Hoover, I used those crappy aluminum units sold by VB, MSA, and Arizona Zcar. However, Our custom rear control arms will do away with the need for those aluminum pieces of crap. Hope to have something done by lat spring, early summer. They are basically like the units Simmon made. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

When I ran 15X8s and competed in AutoX I ran the following: 1.5 Neg. Camber front Zero Tow .75 Neg. Camber Rear Zero Tow 5 degrees Positive Caster with Aluminum shims I used the adjustable bsuhings in the rear and an adjustable control arm up front. Tires were 225-50-15 up front and a 265-50-15 out back. I used this with a modified L6, but also ran the same setup with my current V8 project on the street, except for the caster, only ran 3 degrees positive caster. My current setup allows for caster setup with our adjustable TC rods to well over 12 degrees positive caster, and the newer design adjustable control arms for my car. I also have done the bump steer mod and I use camber plates in the rear, and I'm in the middle of designing my own Camber plates for the front. Coil overs and Tokico Premiums are being used at all corners. New wheels and tires are: 17X9 at all corners with a 255-40-17 up front and a 275-40-17 out back. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I used the Sumit ProSport (Yes it is red) part number 290-113. I also recommend getting the 45 degree JFZ filler neck adapter. I'm really remiss in doing the tech article for this... I promised it to SportZ, so it won't be made "Public" here, but I can send some digital pics off line. I also modified the licenseplate holder to hide the filler and external vent behind the plate. Also, this unit was designed for circle track racing, but I relocated the pickup to the center of the unit in about two minutes... No biggie.. It comes with a filler roll over flap and a vent roll over valve already installed... VERY NICE UNIT... I believe JFZ makes and sells this unit at twice the cost, but distributes it to Summit without any markings so Summit can sell it for MUCH less! Mike Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

The front of the R200 needs to be a 280Z flange. Also, my driveshaft length was 19 3/4 inches from Joint to joint... You can buy the adapter from JTR, or MSA sells one as well... BLKMGK was right on the yoke...it is a turbo 400 unit. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited March 30, 2001).]

Pete, what did they charge you to go through your axles?? Mine are cracked and leaking axle grease... Might have to contact Zbarn... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited March 30, 2001).]

The RamAirbox is more expensive, but you can fabircate another strut bat easily, and I believe their 110degree unit will clear any strut brace. What I did was weld a longer tab onto my MSA strut brace, and flipped the brace upside down! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I've just finished installation of a 22 gallon unit from Summit Racing. It is designed just like a fuel safe cell, with an internal blatter and an outter "Safe"... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

They don't have a website, but they do have a catalog. Search in this category amd you should find their number and other pertinant info. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

After looking at Terry Oxendale's car, and after taking a 1.5 hour napp to rest my back, I went into the garage and cut the core support completely out of the car. I have a few ruff edges to finish off and a few endcaps to weld over in two spots, then I'll need to run to the supply shop and get some channel and boxed square tubing. It took less than 1 hour to remove it all! Tomorrow I'll remove the clutch and brake masters and the booster, then its back to welding and then paint prep for the engine bay! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well here are some real numbers on expenses I have had over the last 4 months: Coil over Kit $420 for 280Z models from Ground Control. This includes springs, perches, collars and top cap. Struts - $256 per four of Tokico Premiums Camber plates - Rear pair - $100 used Brakes - Fronts from Mike/Scca - $900 (12.2 inch with outlaw caliper and aluuminum hat) Brakes - Rear Calipers are wilwood and 86 ZX Rotor - $270 including pads. 5 lug conversion kit - $165 including front hubs, studs all around, and newer Stub axles CV Axle Conversion - $220 including the adapters and ZX turbo axles 5Lug wheels and new tires - $1200 including Cobra R knock offs and 275-40 & 255-40 tires Made by Bridgestone in a Z (RE730) rating.. 20 point cage - $200 in matterials and welding supplies... I don't know what laber to install all this would run since I did my own welding and installation. However, adding these parts prices up you can see that this is not a CHEAP proposition if you want something that will be done right and be a serious terror on a road course. BTW, I've owned Zcars for 14 years and this is the first car I have gone all out on... Most fo this stuff isn't "Necessary" to make a good handling car... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I was sitting in bed last night with a wrenched back (Ever hear of back muscles spasming so hard that they put pressur eon your heart? I'm there...) and I got to thinking.. Last October when I parked the car, I had only intended to replace the fuel cell and mufflers.... Now, I have the cell installed, a set of mufflers on the floor waiting to go in, a new fiberglass front clip to finish up, 18 points of my 20 point cage complete, new floor pans, neww gages, new seats coming, a 5 lug conversion, much larger brakes up front, different brakes in the rear, and coil overs with new struts and camber plates.... This thing really took a major detour.... Motor is out of the car, and the engine bay will be stripped of the accesories tonight if my back will cooperate. I really want to get the front core support cut out and the egnine bay painted by end of the weekend... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I just recieved the front fender flares for my one piece front end... Much nicer than the units I got from MSA for the back wheels several years ago. These units were also half the price of the ones sold by Z specific vendors! Now I just need to get back to the job of finiching this puppy!@ Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

If i was on a tight budget (And I've been there) I'd get strut tower braces, and I would have sub-frame connectors welded in. A competent shop can fabricate them and install them for about $300, and I've paid as little as $175 for a set installed... Sub-connectors will tighten that car up tremendously. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I was told by a GM service rep who ownes a C5 Vette that he only uses Syncromesh in his trans, and he highly recommended only using it in Any T5 or T56... I run and it works great, trans is smooth as silk... And it took 4 bottles of the stuff if memory serves me correctly... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited March 26, 2001).]

You can see pics of our TC Rod and front control arms at: http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z Scroll to the last page. Rear control arms are being developed and will be offered later this spring/Summer... Price for the control arm/TC rods is $400 per complete set including shipping. You must send us your cores... I have a paypal account that allows payment via e-check or credit card. For what its worth, I'd also reconsider your front brake choice... I have the setup Mike/Scca sells and they are nice, and his prices are good! Mike Kelly Zcar Fabrications ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited March 26, 2001).]

Hey there... DO a search in the wheels section...we have recently beat this topic over the head... After you do your research, post questions back here and we'll help sort it out! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Here is the scoop on what I did.... Matt Millen accidentaly identified the skip shift as the speedo sensor, so in my tech article I hacked up the speedo sensoir and called it a Skip Shift...WRONG! Basically, I never did anything toi the Skip Shifter and All my parts work fine. I need to address some changes in the article as well, as many folks have done this swap since I wrote it back in 1999. Don't grind a thing off that tranny, and don't "Modify" the Skip Shifter... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Yes, Yes you should have, but you spend most of your time here in this category...understandable! Put the headers on first...I did mine before and it allowed me to get exact torque and ensure a nice seal on the gasket! Thats what I did and would recommend! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well not having worked with fiberglass before, I'm sure I'll be picking your brain a lot over the coming weeks... As soon as I'm done with the rest of the chassis, I'm devoting 100% to getting the front end ready for paint and making it as durable as possible... Seems like you have been doing this fiberglass work for quite a while Terry, any tips would be much appreciated... I plan to "Borrow" from your radiator mounting... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Is there an easy way, kit or am I screwed when it comes to cracked CV axle boots? The units I got from Zbarn had a few cracks in them... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk