Mikelly

Absolutely, I would check out both those cars before I planned to build another from scratch unless you have a hell of a selection of tools and the ability to fix stuff yourself... and be honest with yourself about this part...we guys hate not being able to figure things out. I'd buy either of the two cars for sale on the BB right now, and Myron's is an ABSOLUTE STEAL.... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Just placed my order for 5lug hubs and CV axles from Zbarn! They didn't know of us, but the owner was shocked when I told him about some of the cars on our site! He said he constantly gets calls from people wanting to do crazy stuff with their Zs! Said he would be glad to steer people our way! CV Axles and front hubs were $150 total plus shipping! Mike Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'm using the Fuel Safe resessed filler and have the 45 degree fill unit feeding to the filler outside the car, behind the license plate. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Consider a set sold to me...If the time frame is good. I'll have CV joints in house this week and would love to get a new set of axles on the car by Late spring! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

SCCA/Mike should this swap be such a mystery? For your information I swapped several cars to larger studs a while back, so making the step to five lug isn't real hard. If there is enough interest from folks on this site I'd be happy to write a tech article up for those who want to do the swap without the aid of any special tools or punches, including stud size, drill bit size and how each step is done. Mike, I didn't use your punch, and there is enough info on the web, via pictures and text, that I didn't need to see Jim's parts to do it, but it was a nice reference to see that I'll have to do something different for my brakes up front. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited January 29, 2001).]

One member here sells the kit if you buy his brakes from him. I located a 5 lug rotor and am drilling the rear stub axles out myself. It is a simple process, but prepare to be at it for a bit and buy really good drill bits! Simply knock all your existing studs out except one, bolt the disk in pplace with the remaining stud and a lug nut, and mark your holes with a centerpuch and drill away! Best way to do this is off the car with a drill press, but it can be done on the car!! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I think you will do fine with 300RWHP... Those WRXs won't come close to your power-to-weight ratio! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

OK,here is the problem...Without going broke, I'm converting to 5 lug 5x4.5, so can't I use any of the standard aluminum hats available in the racing/ Manufacturers community? Mike/ SCCA you have got to have already investigated this... you are worse than me when it comes to being thorough... Anyway, another question is Can't I use a over the hub design??? And on the rears, what 5 lug full race options do I have? I think since the cost is minimal to go to 13 inch rotors, and sicne this thing isn't going to see a bunch of street miles per year, why not go with the 13" setup, right??? Keep the info coming guys... You're getting me closer and closer to an open road race... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well all I can tell you is every single cage in every single race car I have ever seen or driven is welded, sedans, rails, roundirounds, you name it. I bolted mine in and it worked great for years and through one huge wreck. However, I recently removed it from the current car and the rear inner fender sheetmetal was deformed due to the stress put on the car by the suspension and the cage. Your absolute best bet is to weld that cage in and use backing plates. Yes, the metal will be weakened, but thats what the backing plates are for. my .02 Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

That unit is (Or at least was last time I checked) a standard Autopower unit and shouldn't impact the door closing. What I would recommend strongly is that you have it welded in by someone. Even though it doesn't bolt to the floor area, instead bolting onto the rear wheel wells, I still would weld it in. You will notice the car tighten up much more. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well to anyone trying to figure this whole thing out... I have the 3:7 R200 and would GLADLY trade for an R200 LSD with 4:?? Gears in it. It would make my CAM/T56 issue go away. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I called Tokico last night and they are sending me 4 of them. I sold the Koni's and my MSA springs for $225 so I'll be upgrading the fronts to tokicos as well, so I'll need the extras.. They are sending them out red label to me, so I should have them (Maybe) by Friday! Yea, that bezel made me sick when I saw it... Couldn't have fallen on the interior carpet...had to hit the rocker panel when it fell.... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Morgan, What is the part number... I'm going 5 lug in the rear, and if I can sell the rear disc setup I have, then I'll investigate this more and find the application. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'm gonna swipe the ones off the convertible 280 I have sitting out back and see if they might work. I'll hang onto these and give them to you when I get the gages back form you! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

They should clear your rims. BLKMGK has a set of 15X7 Panasport wheels he is looking to unload... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited January 24, 2001).]

I'm actually using the earlier (Yes, less pad surface, worse rotor design) 280ZX calipers and I'm gonna drill my existing rotors for 5lug. Jim Cook racing sells ($200 OUCH!!!) a bracket for this application. I'm no fan of it though and would actually consider doing a complete rear brake sale as well... HMMM...Now you have me thinking.... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Got my pair of Tokico cartridges (Not the illuminas)in the mail yesterday and went to put them on... Sent me the wrong gland nut... Seems they sent units for the 240 tube instead of the 280... I guess I'm gonna have to call NOPI Back for some help on this... BTW, For those living on the east coast, or eastern US... NOPI's price was the same (Within $1-2) as Shox.com and shipping was less, since they are out of Georgia. Cost me $128 for the pair, $135 shipped... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

So Mike, Minus the "Hats", 13inch brake kit including the rotors, pads, calipers and bolt on brackets is about $770, and the 12inch version will run approximately $695. DO you have these in stock? Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

OK, Then here is the question... How much are we talking to put 13 inch rotors (1.25 or smaller thickness) and wilwood billet calipers on the front of a 5 lug Z? Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited January 23, 2001).]

Guys I think 76 280 Speeder made a simple error in typing, nothing more... Was it really necessary to beat up on him? I don't think any of us walk on water around here, unless something special is happening in Alabama that I'm not aware of...... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Ray, My scanner is busted, bit the car was painted black and had a Gnose and some side skirts. I remember them running a differential cooler and I think they welded the rear end to make it a locked diff. I'll doublecheck tonight... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

OK guys, here's the deal: I dropped off Jim's (BLKMGK) Kmember and I looked at his 5 lug front hubs and it became clear to me that in order to use my existing brakes I would need MUCH larger spacers. If I need to buy or machine new spacers, right now would also be the right time to upgrade the front brakes... I'm looking at hitting some high speeds, so I'm thinking 12.5-13inch rotors... Any ideas would be helpfull! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Yup, I even re-used the washers in the new holes. Had to trouble with them at all. I even removed 2.5 of the washers from the Kmember I delivered to BLKMGK yesterday! No kidding, it took less than 5 minutes to get all four of them off mine. a Large coal chissel with a 2-3# hammer and they popped right off. It was much easier with the unit on the car though, as the one I did for Jim was on a bench vise and was more difficult. Also re-measured with a dial caliper and my holes are 7/8th inch up and 5/8th inch further outboard. The unit on the right side had to be slotted a bit though. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited January 22, 2001).]

Well yesterday I did one side of the bump steer mod, and I had to remove the inner washers, which was VERY simple. Get a cole chisel, or other steel cutting chisel and good, heavy hammer and hit the washers at the spot welds... They pop right off, no problem what so ever! However, after marking and drillin my holes, I went back and remeasured and the hole is closer to 1 inch from center up and then 5/8th inch outboard. The absolute best way to do this is with the Kmember out from under the car guys! Hopefully I won't have to bad an issue to deal with. I will slot them if need be... As for "Needing" to do this mod, my car was driven hard this past summer and I noticed no adverse bump steer. If I do now, I will go back to the factory pickup points. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Interesting thing about mine is that when Zdr. made my control arms up he actually made them shorter than they should have been, causing me to adjust the heim joint out past the 3/4 inch amount most builders allow for a heim joint. I didn't realize this until Chris and I pulled them for the project we are working. Now I'm gona move the hole further outboard so I should clear the washer all together, allowing me to leave it and just weld in the new ones. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk