Mikelly

I'd like to think that there isn't much difference in sway bars, but I'm sure they all amke them to different tensil strength and pliability. Morgan, what sizes did they have? I paid $170 for my front 1 1/8 unit with all poly mounts and endlinks from another source. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I need to get another NISMO catalog, like many other things in my collection, it grew legs. That cover sounds cool, but I'd also thing using the drain and fill plugs would also do the trick... One issue with the finned cover is it allows for additional fluid to aid in cooling (How much though really?) so maybe the smart thing to do would just be buy a cooler and pump! Any of you guys using one? Mike Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well I have found a set of 17X9 5 star (Cobra R knockoffs) wheels that will work if I convert to five lug. Now I need to get over that hurdle. Just ordered some 5 lug hubs from Zbarn, so now I just need to sort out the rest! Issue resolved... Reason I needed the wider width of 9 inch wheels is the tire selection calls for that wide of a rim. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Clint, thanks for the compliment, being published is a dream come true for me...if it comes true...still got to write the darned article and get it through edit! Frank, Don't go with the aluminum unit. I hate saying this, but I sold Scottie mine and he is having the same fuel realted problem I was. Keep the poly unit, and plumb (Drill a hole which is what I did!) a new hole for the main line in the center in front of or behind the bail (No more left turn specific pickup!) and use your vent roll over valve plumbed to an outside source. the check ball in the valve won't let gas out, and you now have the additional source for your return! All of this will be documented in the article! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

RIF...Reading is fundamental... OK, Morgan and I share a seat on the same short school bus.. Anyway, what Morgan said. You already have a turbo foundation... Build on that and get the performance you want. I'd go through the block and re-ring and bearing it, maybe Oring the heads and go from there. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Jack, Use the search function to research this topic. Just recently someone posted a link to a site where two guys are doing this very conversion. I don't think anyone else has documented this particular swap, so if you plan to do it, please take lots of notes and lots of pics so others can follow in your footsteps! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

If money is a factor, I'd keep it stock for now and focus on brakes and suspension. Once you open the motor up, no telling where it might lead... New piston and an overbore on the V series Nissan could run you some serious bucks, especially if you raceprep the rods and go through the block. Ringing it properly, going through the heads, adding cams... It could run you into some serious cash. IF money is an issue, just do the simple bolt ons. Besides, going into that motor won't get you any serious HP unless you turbo it... Then again, what do you consider serious HP? To me, and this is just my take so please don't take offense, I wouldn't open a motor up unless I could get at least 300HP and some serious torque for the money spent. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Mine (Check featured rides) has the MSA rear flares, but the fronts aren't on it yet. They will be this spring! They are nice units. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Thats why we are here! Glad you're here to! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well this is just wonderful news... Seems that Centerline doesn't feel it is safe to make a 4 lug 17X9.5 wheel. The widest they will go is 17X8. However, the widest tire you should run in a 45 series or lower profile tire is 225.... So it looks as though I'm gonna have to work something out with either going 5 lug or finding another manufacturer, although I bet that other wheel makers are going to say the same thing... Damned them... This fuels my anger over them and their lack of wheel selection for the Zcar. According to Art Singer, editor for Sport Z, there are over 100,000 zcars registered in 37 states... 100,000 Zcars... Doesn't that account for a market share? I don't get it. OK, I'm done. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

....I welded in the 2inch wide, 1/8th inch thick channel frame for the cell last night and it is gonna be slick. I also drilled the 18 holes needed to secure the safe into the frame. I'll be prepping and sealing the area and then putting some sealer down on the frame mounting area before permanently securing the cell into its new home. I'll post some pics over the weekend, and of course I'll show how the recessed filler will work as I get the unit mounted behind the license plate. However, a full write up and tech article won't follow here... It will be featured in a future edition of SportZ magazine, so stay tuned! This unit appears to be much safer with the blader housed inside of the steel can, and the filler external to the car! 22 Gallons will be sweet too! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Ross' comment makes me wonder if this thing really would be useful to those of us who spend our time in the twisties... Not good if it turns into a posi rear, and if that is the case, count me out. I'll keep what I have for now! I am gonna have to swipe a finned rear cover for my R200 though...need the additional cooling and gear oil capacity... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I believe the ST springs are the same spring Motorsport sells under their own brand. They are fine for most Zs, but I thought the rears were a little undersrpung for my taste. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I certainly would at that price... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

My car DID have the interior in it. However, as soon as I can post some more pics, you will see the interior completely gutted with the rear hoop welded in place. Michael and I were looking at my car when he visited and both of us focused on the fact that the car really doesn't have a "B" pillar, which is important. One of the reasons the car seems seperate in the roof at the windshield and the rear hatch area is the lack of additional support. I'm all for keeping the interior as intact as possible and for shielding all of the outside noise from within the car (I did sell my flowmasters remember) so I can sympathise. However, I'm still betting I can retain the majority of my interior panels with some modifications of them! We'll see, but that's my plan right now! I'll post more pics as the car evolves, but I still say, just as mchael did with his, use those cages as a foundation to build from. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited January 09, 2001).]

For those doing a cage, I can't stress enough that these cage KITS are only a starting point. I have noticed so many areas where you could improve on the design just in the last week. Welding tabs to the roof bulkhead in the rear, tieing into the interior sheetmetal beind the seats, tieing into the firewall and the door sills... All these areas can be done with attention to the interior panels and understanding that you will have to trim panels to get them back in place. I agree with Andy that the door bars are probably useless unless you tie them in better than the two standard points. I'll Post pictures as my welding progresses and the cage developes.. Unfortunately I ran out of tubing and will have to wait a few days to get more done. You guys who plan to install your cages.. Buy a tubing notcher (and a bender if you can..http://www.northerntools.com) ...Very handy, and some additional tubing and gussets. Plan to make additional welds and tie-ins in order make the cell worth while.... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Sounds like you are taking a path, making a decision.. which is a good thing. However, the T56 1-4 skip shift is not an issue, as you simply just don't put any electrical power to the transmission(i.e. don't connect the solenoide). Weight might be though, as the T56 is about 32# heavier than the Nissan CompT5. It is a heavy sucker. If you plan not to push more than 350#ft of torque through your motor, the T5 will be fine. Also, going with a ford isn't a bad choice, just not well documented. You might want to Make Terry Oxendale your new best friend! Check his ride out in Featured rides and you will see what I mean! As for light weight in SCCA, I'm assuming solo1 & 2? If so, go out to Marsh Racing and check their carbon/ aluminum 3 piece wheels. The weigh less than 10# and it is a known fact that the best thing you can do is reduce rotating mass. Get those wheel and tire combos down as light as possible and you might see more noticable improvement than going through the headaches of putting a V8 in the car (Did I just say that?) and being thrown to the wolves in the modified ranks! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I knocked down the major areas of rust over the last week and sealed the front outter fenderwells. areas that weren't rusted I just slathered the stuff on with. I used 1/2 a quart on the two outer fenders and the tops of the fendermounting points. The stuff brushes on great if you use an ultrafine strand paint brush! One thing to mention though, I bought the semiglass black and when it dried, it was pretty much flat black. I wouldn't recommend it again, based on the additional cost and the fact that I'll be painting over it. Mike

Yea, and if you don't...Let me know and I'll take a quick trip to Jersey and get it for the truck! I'm serious! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

...and for those drummers out there (I'm one) Stop Drilling is an excellent way to stop cracks in Cymbles! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Man things have been really moving this week... Lots on my mind, so I work in the garage for the distraction. I welded the main hoop back in tonight, along with the rear side cage to body mounts right behind each door, and one brace from the cage to the rear strut tower. The other will soon follow. I need to get more tubing first. I also POR15'ed the front clips of the car, outer fender well area and the top of the fenderwells where the fenders would rest. I brushed it on and the finish was nice. I'll top coat it after I'm done welding in the engine bay and under the front sections of the car. My welder is really throwing down some nice welds considering I haven't welded in years! I'll be finishing the cage up all next week and getting the cell mounted in place over the coming weeks, and of course the coil overs. I bought Randy's Carrera camber plates for the rear, and I'm on the lookout for another deal on front camber plates! Man I'm getting excited! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Roamer, Not sure what your intended use is, but You can make the power you want with either direction you go in. I honestly think that, unless you know a lot about FI and forced induction, you will run into some huge troubleshooting just in dialing in your FI and turbo. If you have the tools and know-how, then half the battle is won in going turbo, but consider that before you make your decision. Now, GM performance is now making the new ZZ4 RamJet 350 motor for about $4000 complete with computer, harness and everything you need for an FI small block chevy. Then you can pick your transmission and go from there. 350flywheelHP and variety of transmissions (Including the Tremec and BWT5) will work well with it. I'd investigate all your options thoroughly and base your decision on the support you will have in your area, and what you can afford. Also, base it on reliability. Don't read into that that turbo motors aren't reliable, as they can be very reliable, but Evan makes some very good points in his above post, and he is an L6 Turbo owner... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

All the 280 models had cats and unleaded fuel. They are a little bit heavier, but not to worry, they still make great daily drivers and good conversion projects! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

My most recent setup was with 265-50-15s which were 10.5 inches wide on 15X8 wheels with zero offset. I had about 1/3 inch clearance from the stock spring perch. I'm planning to move to a 17X9.5 with 5inches of backspacing. The tire will be about 12 inches wide. Now the factory spring is about 4inches in diameter ( I think) so I'm assuming I should be alright with the tire and wheel combo. Thoughts?? Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Ross, What was the backspacing on your wheels? I'm running flares and plan to run no more than 5 inches of backspacing, so I should clear the perches with the 2.5 inch coil over setup. You cannot do this with a stock fendered Z, which is probably what you are thinking. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk