Mikelly

Tony, What is a set of 1 3/4s running these days? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Years ago, when I first started out, I did the same thing, beat out the stub axle with the nut on it... two months later the nut sheered off on an offramp and I almost totaled the first Z I ever owned.. I was 21 at the time and someone told me not to do exactly what I did... Get a slide hammer. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited September 10, 2000).]

Stub axles from the 280 are nice to have, and the hub assemblies from a 280 are interchangable. You can swap the sway bars from the 280z as well, and I would use the cross member from the 280, because you can go ahead and do the JTR mod for bump steer. I'd look at wheel and tire issues while you have these extra hubs and stub axles... You might want to re-think and look into drilling them for a more common bolt pattern! It will make wheel selection easier. Hand onto the strut assemblies since if you ever decide tyo swap to coil overs, you can do them on existing housings and then swap them onto the car. i'm told that ZX front hub assemblies will bolt on, but doublecheck that. Obviously you want to hang onto both R200 rears! Anything else I can think of, I'll let you know! ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

My limited experience with turbos was primarily with Garrets, but I did do sa tone of research a few years back and the T3/T04 Hybrid was the smack back then... I'd look into those, and the BIGGEST intercooler you can find... Guy I know had a 240Z with a Mazda RX7 2nd generation turbo motor in it with a Garrett T3/T04 with a Mack Truck intercooler stuffed in it... Thing was scary fast. By far the fastest accelerating car I have ever watched at an autoX! That creation was another beast from the ZDr. folks in Roanoke, VA! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I have no reason to keep an E-brake since my car has antique tags on it and won't go through a state inspection anytime soon... I'll keep the e-brake lever in place incase I get some scruitany form the local Law, but I'll not put another e-brake on the car. Pete, you have any part numbers for your kit from wilwood??? also what is the distance from mounting bolt to mounting bolt on your rear caliper mount "ears"???? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I have a related question about what exactly was different going from the 79/81 setup to the 82/83 setup? Was it the thickness of the rotor, or the offset on the caliper, or the distance between the caliper mounting bolts? Reason I ask is this: I have the JCR 79-81 brackets on my car, and I'd like to eventually remove them and get a better 2 or 4 piston caliper on the rear, and want to know what the difference is! Hard to believe that I have never worked on an 82/83 ZX and have never seen the difference in the brake setups!!! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Paradox, The question isn't what we think, as I can sit you in my car and have you drive it and find out for your self how "Balanced" a small block chevy is. Further, it is BY FAR the simplest of the conversions to do to a Z or ZX, as the 200+ members of this site can all atest to. Here is the question, What do you really want to do? Do you just want something different than the usuall small block Chevy in your car? If that is the case then state it, and no harm, no foul, you will get the right info from the right guys. However, trust me on this one, as I'll bet large sums of cash on it, going dollar for performance dollar, you will get 250HP cheaper with a small block Chevy than you will with any of the powerplants you mentioned. And complexity of a turbo setup compared to a non-turbo.... Lots of hair to be lostin the mix between start and finish of that type of project... My $.02 worth. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

No idea where you can get a rear metering block and I don't want to work on any more Holleys.... Well maybe one more won't hurt... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Nope, it is easy, as I have installed them before, just never sectioned the tubes... although since I'm gonna go to 17s, I won't be sectioning them according to Mike.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

SCCA I have got to contact you offline, 'cause I'm gonna have to deal with this by next spring, as I'm upgrading wheels to 17s, suspension to coilovers, and brakes and hubs to 5 lug.... gee guess who I'll be buying them from??? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

The only thing I changed on my setup is the powervalve, going to a larger unit and re-adjusting the butterflys to come in better. My squirters are size .31 std and my cam is pink. Not sure which cc AC pumps I have.. I don't think locking the distributor is the answer if you plan to drive the car part throttle around town... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Mine are pink. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Don't know, but I'll find out... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

...To proper part throttle tuning, as I have found out! I got to drive the car over the weekend with the better tuning on it and I'll tell ya, this information on this BB has been invaluable to me in this area. I swapped in the larger power valve and part throttle cruising is now no longer an excersize in bucking and shifting.. Car pulls smooth and strong. I'm gonna bump up to a 7.5 power valve this week and see what happens, as I'm trying to get 6th gear to pull smoother at lower rpms. As for selling the BG, I'm gonna keep it for now, as everyone from Jim Biondo, to local hotrodders in town have advised me that an Edelbrock will hurt performance bigtime.. So I guess I'll be becoming an expert in holleys before it is over with! For what its worth, when you get the carb right, it is awesome! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Since I'm about to buy some coil-overs, where are you guys sectioning the tube and and how much are you taking out?? I need to get the nose of this car on the ground (Within two-three inches for aerodynamics...)... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

The same shop my buddy went to for his dyno test the other day told me they pulled a set of side pipes off a corvette (Early 70's) and put some headers and full exhaust on and found 42HP!!!!! That is a huge gain over the previous confiduration.. I asked if they did anything else and they said that they hadn't... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well the power valve did the trick and most of my tuning woes are solved. I'm gonna keep the carb for now. I think as long as I'm learning how to tune it, and if I can get it right, then that in its self is a good thing. I'm gonna go to Borders and buy a book this weekend. I drove the car this evening and even my girlfriend noticed how much smoother it accelerates. I think I still have a slight stumble below 1600 in 6th gear, but I don't want to sacrefice top end for much more low rpm cruising. I'll smooth out what I have and see where I am in the next week or so. Hopefully the rain will go away and I can put some serious miles on it!!! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Time out... Just noticed you are one of our friends from down under... Go with what your manufacturer tells you as he would know. Also, there may be variances due to differing construction of Euro spec pieces.. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Mine was degreed in but I don't know what the advance was on it... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

When I rap on the throttle, it revs extremely fast without hesitation. The throttle response is increadible with the added 2 degrees of initial timing. I'm running an MSD billet distributor with mechanical advance and my vacuum reading is with the car in neutral (I'm running a T56). I'm hoping the part throttle surge I was feeling will go away with these mods. As for what was causing the problems with fuel pressure, I still don't get anything above 6 psi once the motor is warm, but what I was told to focus on is the volume of fuel, and not line pressure. My bowls never empty, so that is a good tihng. What we think is that the lines (1/2inch) are causing the guage not to read well, causing me to think the pump/ regulator/ delivery is an issue, when in fact it wasn't. Heat was a slight problem, but I got a heat shield for the carb, and relocated the lines to the outside of the engine bay. Now the metering blocks a re so cold that I get cold condensation on them when the motor is at full operating temp. Tell your brother he is welcome to it, as all parts are like new and the carb was completely gone through just to make sure nothing was wrong with it internally that might cause some of my problems. I just don't want to have to tune it with the weather changes and such. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

...and what I now have is 74 primary jets, 79 secondary jets, Power valve is a 6.5, and my vacuum is now a steady 11HG. I have the initial timing at 16 degrees, with another 21 degrees coming in by 3000RPms. The springs in the distributor are light blue on one side and light silver on the other side. I have about 1.5 turns from all the way in on the metering jets so far. It sounds great and with the larger primary jets I am no longer getting pinging.. Interesting, but it revs SO MUCH BETTER with 16 degrees timing. My idle is right at 1100RPMs. If it ever quits raining I'll take her out for a spin and see what happens at part throttle! I'm still gonna buy an Edelbrock unit if I can sell my carb.. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Yea, that yoke is from a Turbo400 and you can get it at any driveline shop, or check with Flaming River or hit the salvage yards... Mine cost me about $60 and was a spicer unit. The driveline shop I used has since gone out of business, but was a spicer dealer and all their stuff was top notch! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Jump on it. If it is truly clean and rust free on the structureof the chassis, get it, build it, and drive it! Good luck and welcome to the fold! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I recommend the MOthers Aluminum and chrome polish sold at most Pep Boys and other car parts places. The stuff goes on my hand and you can get a mirror finish out of any aluminum with a little work. I'd also recommend powder coating the centers that you thought about painting... Powdercoating lasts longer and resists chipping better than paint! ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Center flows out to the unit, either remote filter, cooler or pre-luber, then is cycled back into the motor by the offset unit. Caveate here: Check with the manufacturer of the remote unit to doublecheck it. If you got it at Summit, or Jegs, Or if they carry the same unit, call them up and ask their tech line. They can confirm what I have seen in all of the relocation kits I have installed Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk