Mikelly

....And a Gallon of the stuff goes a long way.... We did the underside of my door sills in the stuff and it was great. I'd recommend using it on frame rails, or any other areas that have been welded in with fresh virgin metal. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Yup, Ron is right. The R200 is visibly larger at the pumpkin.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

According to my Lingenfelter On Small Block Chevys Book, the Clevite 77 bearing is the prefered unit. That is also what is in my motor now, but Others might have a different opinion! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Dew... I'd bet large sums of money that fitment would not be an issue. There is very little difference in the lay out of the cockpit on the three model 1st generation Z cars. You might have to short the footer of the hoops to accomidate a rise in the floor pan or rise in the rear trunk area, but that consists of hacking off an inch or so of tubing at each end of the hoop... It will work. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

The tumblers in the switch just wear out and cause the switch to fail. Getting replacements can be costly, so I just went with the Moroso cage mount box to control all my particulars. I do allow the ignition switch to turn on the power to the accesories and the guages. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Jim Cook and Bob Sharp both sold those flares, although I don't think Cook carries them anymore, and Sharp is nolonger in business... Check Impact Parts.. (Might have a number somewhere...) as they also carried them for a while... BTW, I know what was wrong with the Mallory pump.. It didn't burn up... Just wasn't modified to run the non-return style pump.. Gonna put it back together this evening! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well Well... Interesting that you would notice that Drax. That creaking and groaning is exactly the type of symptom that would tell you that there are issues in them thar' strut towers. They flex...not like the muscle mag guys either... Glad you noticed a difference. My guess is there is a lot more stiffening that will make even more noticable changes as well.. Keep on keepin on! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Mark, I have the same setup as Vickie, Except mine is mounted on the roll cage... Get one, and you will be much happier. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Good idea DANNO.... I looked at this and just couldn't find a decent unit to transplant into the car from a salvage yard.. The ZX tank is MUCH nicer than the Z unit. They also coated them better. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Did you by chance reverse the wires to the coil??? Just a guess. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I know you have decided against the Demen, but I'll relay this anyway, unless any of you guys has a BG dealer close by, don't waste your time on a BG carb. You have to custom order the rebuild kits, as well as all the other things I mentioned before... I will probably sell this thing down the road when I swap to EFI. I also found out that it realy isn't BGs fault.. Seems that Holley has sued both BG and EAD for using Holley Cores for their units, not paying holley for the rights... Seems that now BG and AED will be designing their own carb bases once the cores they have in stock are gone. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Ron, What I found out yesterday is that the gas was boiling in the secondary side of the motor. Took the carb to a speed shop and had the guy look at the parts... Gas was cooked onto the bowl bolts. I have a heat shield I'm gonna bolt on and then I'm gonna put everything back together with the clean carb in place, retune it and see how it runs. Hopefully this is why my car was not keeping pressure. Other than that, the reason the car ran so well was the fact that the priamary side of the carb was pristine... and as you know, the primary side is all that is being used at adle, which was where I had been testing the carb for the last 10 weeks... amazing.. Its the little things that get ya everytime. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Check out my tech article about the Fuel Cell Swap I did... That should give you everything you need to know. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'd stopped by a Ford Specialists shop last night and asked a few questions about my fuel problem, and Rick, Owner of High Tech Auto says, it is not the carb, no way, no how... So I go home and run a few checks per his suggestion. Chris C. From this bulletin board calls me up, and then comes over.. We run through all the tips on checking the complete system out, and everything points to the fact that my pump, my cell, my line, and my regulator are fine... So why won't the system keep 7.5psi? We walk down the street to my buddies house (Guy has an awesome 55 Chevy) and he listens to my diatribe and says the same thing, it ain't the carb... then we all hash it out again.. Maybe it is the carb.. Maybe something is stuck open, allowing the carb to just empty its contents into the intake... also contributing to the whole under hood temp rise that I have... So Chris and I go back to the house ad try a few more things... then we remove the carb and pull it apart... the primary side is clean as a whistle... the secondary side is full, and I mean FULL of trash... little waxy flakes of stuff... and grit, probably from the braided lines being cut and debris falling down the line... I ussually blow everything out with compressed air, but as much as I have swapped stuff in and out lately, it is alwasy possible to get trash in the lines, not to mention that the longer this project goes, the more filthy the garage gets... Anyway, I'm gonna get some new Needle/ seat assemblys, gaskets, and about 18 gallons of carb cleaner and go to town on the thing and see if I can get it back into shape... What a mess... Guess I'll pick up new accelerator pumps as well... Moral of the story is that I suspected the carb a while back and several experts I called claimed that the carb could not cause this, and they may be right... Only way to tell is putting the carb back on after it is cleaned... I'm thinking its the carb, based on all the checks and the fact that I found such a filthy mess in the secondary bank of that carb... Crazy! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Good Luck Frank! THey are out there... just keep us posted on what you find... The 240SX seats from 89-91 timeframe are a good looking alternative seat, although I haven't installed those. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

And to further touch on what Chris said... Remember, every time you fortify one area, you move the displaced energy and stress out to the next weakest link.. If you install a super stiff suspension and sub-frames... your car will move the flex up and out towards the outer edges... Look at a poorly designed autocross car that has been run without sub frames and a cage.. You will notice stress wrinkles in the roof line sheet metal.. you will also notice stress wrinkles in the sheet metal in the quarter panels... Also, look at the stamp welds. If any of them seem to pucker, or have a gap (Especially around the TC Box and strut towers) then the car was pushed to hard without proper engineering and bracing.. Also Triangulate everything you can. The more braces added in the proper spots, the better. The guy that designed my cage taught me a lot about what to do to make the car stiff. Now to live with it on the street is another story. Hopping over door bars sux, but hinged door bars aren't acceptable to 99% of the true chassis engineers out there. BTW, my door bars bolt in, and I only use them when the car is gonna be on the track because they are a real pain in the a** to get over, but they do add stiffness to the package. What I would recommend is getting the S&W kit, and their subframe kit, then adding to that, like pushing two tubes (one on each side) through the firewall and tieing it into the strut tower. I'd also come off the back hoop and tie into the boxes for the rear bumper struts... then X that pair of tubes in the rear. I'd also use a strut brace like the one Motorsport sells, so you can get access to the engine when you need to without breaking out the torch... that and the fact that it looks cool. Then back up front I would tie in one bar each from the front of the strut tower to the radiator core support at the front frame rail. I'd also run and X from one side of the front frame rail to the other...you have the room, might as well use it. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

My current BG Sport CLaw series carb was the forerunner to the Speed Demon. After all the fuel headaches I have had, and after talking to virtually everyone in the automotive Fuel delivery and tunner/ builder arenna, I can only tell you what they all told me. Barry Grant has NOTHING to do with his carbs. His name is on them and thats about it. They LOOK great, but bang for the buck, they aren't. My advice would be to research the AED (http://www.aedperformance.com)line of carbs. I've had more people tell me in the last few weeks how great those carbs are, and how poor BGs are... And you cannot go to any local speed shop and get fittings for your carb. All BG parts must be ordered from BG. Fuel logs, inlet fittings, pump fittings, regulator fittings.. everything that touches that carb must have a BG thread (9/16X24) pattern. My advice...don't do what I did. I bought it thinking I was getting a great carb... Hopefully when I'm done with it, it will be. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Started the car tonight...with the gas cap opened...and at 7.5 psi. 8 minutes later the car was running at less than 6 psi. It is obviously not the fuel cell. It is not electrical. It is not the pump, nor the regulator. It is not the guage, heat or kinked lines... It has got to be the carb... What do I look for in the carb? Neddle and Seat is Jeff's recommendation. Gonna try and locate a carb with Chris C's help. I'm gonna swap in a carb and see what I get, or tear this one down... Any tips on what to look for? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'm just running out of clues at this point... hopefully we have narrowed it down... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Chris C and I were discussing this very thing last night. Bigest thing I ever noticed in doing suspension mods over the years has been when installing sub-frame connectors. They lay the foundation for the rest of your fortication needs. Quite simply put, I would not install a cage without sub-frame connectors. Mike Kelly ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Chris C. came over last night and we checked a few things out. Opened the filler on the fuel system after the car was running for 10 minutes and the pressure had fallen to about 6 psi, a drop from 7.5psi. It didn't recouperate. So Chris is in the middle of searching for a carb for me to try. We now think that it might be the carb... We'll see. I'm also gonna grab a can of gas, run a line form the inlet of the pump to the can, open the vent on the can and see what happens. At this point I have narrowed it to the carb or the cell. I checked the volts at all connections after 30 minutes of running and the readings at all electrical points were 13.78, more than enough to keep any pump running at max volume. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'm gonna investigate that again this evening. Spoke with the president of AED Carbs and he advised me to do just that. I'm gonna get the car running for about 15 minutes, just enought time to allow the pressure to start to fall off, and then I'm gonna open the bail on the cell. I'm gona see what happens when I do that. If it rises, then I'll know that the cell roll over valve will allow fumes to vent, but not allow sufficient air back into the cell... I'll be doing away with the vent roll over valve and plumbing in a try vent. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I fabricated brackets and mounted the seat, sans frame to the channel of the seat frame on the floor of the car. The seats do not have overly thick seat foam, but they are nice and comfy. I'm 5 ft. 8 inches tall and they are fine. I have about 4 inches clearance to the roof from my head. The seats were out of an 86 Conquest TSI. They are factory recarro units. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

We are now into the third month of lack of stable fuel pressure in the Z. Here is the problem: Motor holds 7.5 psi of pressure until about the 10 minute mark, then starts to slowly drop off... at the 30 minute mark the pressure drops off ot about 4-3.5 psi. This is when I shut it down... Here is what I have done so far to correct it: Replaced the Mallory 3 port regulator with a BG two port unit, with the proper BG fitting. No luck.. Replaced the pump and regulator with the Holley blue pump and regulator... No luck. Re-routed all the fuel lines so there is no heat issues... all lines are cold to the touch.. No Luck Added 10 guage wire to the whole system, including the pump, oil pressure switch, toggle switch... No luck. Added a painless wiring relay... No Luck. Reduced the line after the regulator from 8AN to 6AN... No luck. The only two areas we haven't touched yet are the fuel cell, an RCI aluminum unit, and the carb, a BG 750 double pumper... Could either be causing the pressure drop? I cannot seem to get the pressure to hold at idle. And obviously I can't drive the car, 383 stroker.. without the stable pressure... the few times I did.. the motor was starved. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I have conquestTSI seatsin my car, and they are High end seats....VERY ADJUSTABLE!!!! Got them for $150 at a pick-N-pull. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited June 05, 2000).]