Mikelly

I'm using the Dart Conquest aluminum heads with 2.05/1.6 valves, ti Springs and retainers, 1.5 roller rockers. They have been massaged to flow better. Came in a crate package deal. Mike

My setup is using a stroked shortblock (383) with 10.1:1 compression. I'm using an ISKY roller Hydraulic cam with 1.5 roller rockers. Cam specs are dur. 284/292 (I get that mixed up some times) and lift is 530/550 with lobe sep. of 110 degrees. The heads are Dart Conquest aluminums with 2.05/1.60 valves with a port matched victor Jr. intake. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited September 03, 2000).]

I'm in the same boat as Myron. I'm not great with Holley tuning. I've contemplated putting an Edelbrock Carb on it for the ease of setup and reliability. Anyway, Same story as Myron, when the car is right, it is scary to drive. Yesterday I swapped in 74 jets in the primary, and a 6.5 power valve was swapped in. I had a 4.5 in it and that is gone. I'm gonna stick with 79s on the secondary for now. The Secondary has no powervalve in this carb. My carb is close to the setup as Myron's, with no choke plate and flowing aroung the same number. I have annular boosters. My intake is an Edelbrock Victor Jr. Singleplane that was port matched to my Dart Conquest heads. Heads have 1.5 roller Hyrdaulic rockers and I'm running 2.05/1.6 valves in it. Cam is a 530/550 lift roller hydraulic grind with 292/284 duration. And John, you need to pat yourself on the back, 'cause you know a lot more about Holley carbs than I do, and you have given me areas to check. I already swapped the heavy springs in the MSD distributor out for lighter ones and recurved the distributor so I get more of my advance in by 3000. I haven't driven the car yet, but I'll give you an update after I drive it Tuesday. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited August 28, 2000).]

...Well being that I did not put my own sub-frames in and I'm not happy with the welds (Looks like crap, but works) I had planned to re-do mine and I'm going to go with a 1" X 3" boxed as well. They will be stiff enough, if tied in properly. I'd thought about rust proofing the inside, but since the caris going to be re-done, I'm not worried about it.. I'm thinking por15 would be a good safe bet.. Get a cheap spray gun with a wide nozzle and just throw it away when you are done.. Por15 is hell on sprayers.. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

....Well yesterday, after spending more on a stone the size of a #2 pancil erasor than a set of 17 inch wheels and tires would cost me..., my wheel buying decision is on hold... As for the current discussion, I'm not sure I like going to 5 lug, but I might try drilling some hubs and stub axles out... I do have an extra car... anyway, the TSWs are nice, as are the wheels on the yellow car. I am also looking at the new Centerline AZTEC which is less hotrod and more hitech... at $220 for a 17X9.5, it isn't a bad wheel... What shocked me is the fact that 275-40-17s are only $154 each for Bridgestone RE730s... That is sweet.. My tires wil cost less than $600 total for two 275-40s and two 245-45s in 17" size... Keep the info coming... I'm not buying anything until next spring, as I'm sure I'll need tires by then, and thats when I'm really looking to make a move on wheels as well! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited August 25, 2000).]

I also wouldn't run dual Flowmasters... I have them, three chambers on dual 2.5 inch exhaust and it is anything but quiet. I think you would be better off with dual Dynomax Super Turbo units.. They have good exhaust note, flow well, and are quieter until you get on it... The flowmasters are loud when cruising on the highway at 65mph. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I have a gas hotwater heater in my garage, and the car with cell installed has been in that garage for almost two years now... No explosions, no gas smell, no problems... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

.....I'm gonna have to take a back seat on this one for a few months, since I am preparing to do battle in court with my girlfriends Ex husband over child custody issues. I'll be cash poor for a bit, so the project will have to wait guys... Chris we'll discuss the interior stuff off line and maybe setup some little stuff.. Stay tuned... more to follow. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I contacted TSW and they politely told me that they do not make a wheel for my application and do not do custom offset and sizing... I guess they no longer support that service. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I used 2"X3" boxed steel. It is heavy, yes, but gives you a foundation that is unbeatable for chassis stiffening and added reinforcement for the extra HP and Torque. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

DOn't get me wrong, I've heard nothing but good things about Yokohoma tires, but when they are the only brand that makes a wide enough tire for my current 15X8 wheels (running 265s in the rear for the flares) I get concerned when they to will drop the wide selection in 15 inch sizes... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Matt, I'm suffering from the same thing...a buzzy motor and I think you are right on with the description of the mounts. They do allow a lot of buzz to transmitt into the car. Unfortunatley that is the price to play... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Do a search on this topic. It has been covered either here or in another category. However, you will be very disappointed to know that there is little info about swapping to power steering. No one makes a kit for this conversion and the labor involved and machining and fabrication skills needed make the conversion to power steering an unreachable goal for most of us. Mike Kelly ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

..... After doing a nice little four wheel drift on a nice little favorite road of mine, I started to look at my tires and it got me to thinking of WHEN I will have to replace them... So I go and check to see what sizes are available in ultra Hi performance tires... Only one manufacturer makes wide enough V & Z rated tires for my car....Yokohoma. I won'r run H rated tires on the Z, as I think they are junk on performance cars... So looks like I'm gonna upgrade the wheels to 16 or 17 inchers so I can get the width and performance I need for the beast... I'm openly soliciting all info on 16 & 17 inch wheels at this point... If you know of a manufacturer, please let me know... I'm looking at Centerline and Weld, but I'm also looking at Euro style/ Honda like wheels... and of course fittment is an issue! Thanks! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

It is only an emissions item that I have removed from every Zcar I have owned.... remove it for the weight savings alone.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

This is bad for two reasons... A: Your center of gravity is elevated to much, which makes the car top heavy. This is dangerous if you are thinking about driving aggressively in corners due to oversteer problems. B: The motor weight is centered over the steering rack, creating more of a 60/40 weight balance.. every car builder knows that 50/50 is desired and the JTR kit gives you a 51/49 t0 49/51 balance, depending on parts used. This makes traction on take off almost impossible, and puts you at risk for endless tickets due to unwanted wheelspin. God forbid you drive it in the rain. However, I wouldn't "NOT" buy the car because of the motor and trans placement. The JTR kit is only $350 including the manual and all you need is the crossmember spacers, the motor and trans mounts and maybe the extra yoke for the driveshaft would be nice to have on hand. I'd buy it with the understanding that this mod would have to be done ASAP. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'd look at the Summit Racing Cells that are offered for around $180. They have an option for sender and you can mount them fairly easily... I personally have an RCI aluminum unit and wish I had gone with a fuel Safe Cell and housing... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

That rear clip is from a JCR kit. Those rear fenders can be found at Jim COok Racing.. I don't have the link but someone here can provide it I'm sure! Also, there is a company in Canada that makes Zcar Fiberglass... You should check them out since shipping in country is a lot easier than getting it from the US! http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/forsaleD.html Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited August 16, 2000).]

Matt, Which trans are you using? Also, it sounds like a drive angle issue... Have you checked the pinion angle with a angle finder? You can buy one for about $18 at Sears... Go to Pete's link and read about what can happen and how to fix it... sounds like you are suffering from the same thing every V8 Z suffers on initial build.. But don't sweat it, this is fixable... Read Pete's article and then ask us some more questions! To correct mine, I did the JTR fix by cutting the mustache bar bushings to give the right angle! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Where is this "Vibration" coming from and what are you doing when you feel it. Let me explain: Is the vibration coming from all around you and only when you accelerate? Or is it comming from behind you and up through the trans tunnel? One thing I have noticed is that the harder I rev it, the more it vibrates through the dash and steering wheel... and that is directly related to the Revs, which means I have a super stiff chassis that is transmitting a lot of what is going on internally to the motor through the chassis. The other area to look at is poinion and driveline angle.. that would be most noticable from the rear half of the car... So which is it??? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

European spec non-turbo ZX cars did come with CV axles in them. That was an issue of debate as the CVs run smoother and help the car ride better at higher (Read: Autobohn) speeds. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I've had a bunch of them and all of them read differently when under no pressure. I'd not worry about it. I've got several on hand and all of them read the same when under load. I've used Autometer, Marshall, Warren, Summit, and Holley and they all are pretty accurate. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

To answer your questions: 1: Yes & 2: Yes We are doing some research and will start experimmenting this week with molds for interior and exterior parts. I'd like to get some data on Jim Biondo's front clip as I'd like to put something like that into use on both my Zs. However, a stock mold of a regular front clip, and then one with flares and a cowl style hood will be my 1st attempts. We're also looking at Carbon Fiber door panels, dash panels, and center consoles! Stay tuned! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

FYI, Chris and I are on another adventure, getting ready to setup molds for fiberglass front ends, carbon interior panels and other fiberglass parts... Are any of you guys interested in buying this stuff??????????? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Why not get one from Motorsport.. I have had tons of stuff shipped through them with oput a hassle... And I'm talking body kits, hoods (I've owned two cowl hoods) and rear wings with no problem and little extra cost. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk