Mikelly

.....and I wouldn't exactly call the T56 install difficult. The real issue with the T56 is the fact that there is very little info on them. Since I wrote my tech article, a number of things have been disproven, like the widening of the trans tunnel, grinding of the fins, and the mod to the "Skip Shift" solenoid. The trans does have to be widend on the passengers side, but not on the drivers side, and the other mods listed above do not have to be done at all. The two problems I had with the trans were related to the installation of the Clutch kit, and the balancer plate I used behind the flywheel, which caused problems with the clutch fork. If I ever do this conversion again, the trans will be the easiest portion of the conversion. As for why I chose the T56, I wanted a high tech, and bullet proof design in my trans, wanted something that would live with my 3:7 gears, and I wanted as much economy on the highway as a 500HP motor can have. As for that little calculation, I built my car for top end runs through the desert, and I doubt my car will see 200+mph I-F I can keep it on the ground. If I break 180MPH safely I will be very happy! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited April 20, 2000).]

That is a hard call. Jim Biondo has a bullet proof system set up and he has some key connections in Detroit. Maybe you can recoup the loss by selling the Tremec, which I think is a wise move. The T56 is by far the best trans I have ever rowed, but you is the way to go. Cost-wise, you could get a custom geared bullet proof T5 for a lot less robbing of the kids college fund..... If Jim hooks you up with his buddy, get a quote... If it is less than half what the T56 would run ya (2K) then you save money in the long run.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited April 20, 2000).]

Hot rod did a special how to on doing this last month, although I don't recall seeing it here... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

1 inch should be fine. My car is 1.5 inches lower (with Motorsport springs) and it sets at the right height, even with dual 2.5 inch exhaust... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I have a ground to the frame from the battery (2 actually) and a ground (3 actually) from multiple points on the engine, including the starter bolts, to the chassis. All are 0/1 gauge or better... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I would say that if you plan to keep it at the numbers you are shooting for, a world class T5 would be a good option. The T56 is way expensive and DO NOT buy a TREMEC until unless you drive a car with one in it first. Make sure you can live with the notchy and difficult shifting...I found it almost impossible to shift accurately.... However, if you shoot for 400HP and larger torque numbers, a T56 will be your only cost effective and maintenance free choice! 94-97 T56s were rated at 450#ft of torque! Mike Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Mucho thanks DANNO!!! I just ordered it. seems to be the right PN! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well I'm currently running a brand new 383 stroker with aluminum heads, full roller valve train, and all the go fast goodies, and nitrous is not an option for me. I'm not as much into the 1/4 mile thing as some. I prefer road courses and top end stuff. This aluminum block project would be just for the heck of it.... Plus I'm sure I could sell the motor I currently have later on or put it in something else.... Just curious if anyone else has done research on aluminum blocks and what needs to be done... don't want any surprises! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.htm They also have a troubleshooting guide linked to it. Very informative. I think I know why my Mallory regulator was not functioning properly and I'm gonna re-plumb it tonight.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

....Just called the dealer...$49 for that little sucker....OUCH! I'm gonna try to find it from a supply source 1st, but I suspect BW will only sell that Part to dealers....I need to notify Matt Millen on this whole issue so he knows what he modified..... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Actually there is a specific welding rod required to make a "SAFE" weld of the two metals. If you have a "How to modify your Datsun" type book, this procedure and the type of welding rod needed is in it. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I would agree. You could be adding over 100# to the chassis and drivetrain, some of which is rotating mass.... However, it would be ultra trick!!!!!!!! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

....Just spoke with VDO and they advised that you should use the speedo sensor built into the transmission for their gauges... That would be the unit I modified, thinking it was the skip shift, which means I need to buy another one... So DO NOT CUT IT as I desdcribe in my tech article... Dan, I need to revise that ASAP!@ Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'm thinking about purchasing an aluminum 350 block for my next build.... Dart is selling them, as are a few others... Anyone got any good info on these? Additional precautions for building them up??? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Scottie makes several good points... Make sure you get a chance to drive a properly done Z with the JTR motor setback and proper suspension and brakes done. I think I could build a nice budget Z or ZX for under 10K total, but that includes suspension and brake upgrades, and a 350HP 350#ft. torque power plant.. ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Was reading through the intructions tonight and in my Mallory pump instructions it clearly states "Must be used with a return style regulator" which my new BG unit is not... then I read my mallory regulator instructions and it mentions that you must modify the pump by removing a spring from the bypass to make the pump work with the regulator... desiding to check the pump for this spring.. and it is installed...OK you think Mike is an idiot, right? Well the pump and regulator come as a kit, which makes me wonder why they don't modify the pump at the factory, and if I can run the current pump with the spring in it and use it with the BG non-return style regulator... and if there was anything wrong with the mallory regulator in the first place, and if the spring was removed would the mallory unit work properly...... Directions directions directions.... read them, know then, learn to do this... wish I had... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited April 17, 2000).]

That is strange.... Actually DOH!!!!!! Nope, it isn't. You are right. My first 74 was a 7/74 and it had the early type bumpers... My new 74 is a 10/74 and it had later style bumpers... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Just be carefull in tight radious turns... That was the only big issue with welding them up in the SCCA crowd. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'm running the MSD 6AL, Billet Distributor, Blaster2 coil and 8.5 mm wires... I love their stuff. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Nope, I haven't removed the starter since I started having trouble and bought the new remote solenoid sold by summit. The starter wasn't dragging before I wired in the new remote solenoid, and FYI I don't have any factory wiring in this car. Re-wired it all back a few years ago... The shim isn't the issue either, but it must have something to do with the wiring on the hot side of the solenoid... I'll try that... ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well I noticed it both with a remote starter trigger, and with the starter button on my Moroso toggle box... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I was told the same thing, and would have went with a 2 bolt block, but the builder had a 4 bolt prepped and didn't charge me extra for it... It was a Bowtie Unit ordered by someone else and never picked up... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Pete, Victoria Brittish is where I got mine... PN:94-404 I have not installed it yet, so I can't say how it works... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

74 1/2 prod. swap over was in April, so all 4/74 and newer cars would have the 5MPH bumpers, and the larger companion flanges...FYI, the 74 1/2 and newer stub axles were rated for more torque, so I'd say it would be in your best interest to modify the companion flange or use Pete's adapters! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Mike KZ is gonna have one bad ride! I like the stripes going down into the trans tunnel... Nice touch! Clean, straight body too! OK Lee, you're off the hook for the drag car for now... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk