Mikelly

The FEEL of the clutch pedal is more positive (More presure) than that of the factory Z clutch, or the 2nd generation RX7, but only slightly. It is, IMO, Perfect. If you have driven a 5.0 Mustang, you know that a heavy pedal is no fun, and you don't have that with this setup if you use the Tilton 7/8th inch bore mastercylinder and bleed the system properly! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Carlo, what brake fluid are you using and how old is it? Which rotor are you using? Four things I did: Use the larger caliper from a V6 toyota 4x4 truck, use the 300zx vented rotor, which sheads heat, and use a hi boiling point fluid (500 degrees or more), which is changed before every race course romp. I also use 4inch brake ducts to help cool the front rotors. Ford has a Hi Temp dot4 fluid that BAER racing recommends, and I have had good success using Valvoline Syntech fluid, which is also dot4. However, it is highly recommended to change the fluid in your system once per year, even on street cars. This is exactly why I have Russel Speed Bleeds. I have the best brake pedal feel I have ever had since installing those units on all my calipers. This helped a bunch with boiling woes... did away with it! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited March 10, 2000).]

Nope, that big botl isn't it. It is forward of that. It literaly has a little 3/8 inch or smaller bolt holding a c-clip on the skip shift. If you put the car in fifth gear, it is like your next move is 7th... that is where it is, but it is a little stiff to engage, but mine works fine once you find it. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I recommend a 1 1/8th unit up fornt and a 7/8 unit in the rear. JCR, Arizona Zcar, Motorsport, and Import Specialties make nice units. Most ship with new endlink and frame mount bushings. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

#1. The Skip Shift Solenoid is the unit on the left side of the trans that is held on with a single bolt and C-clip. It has an electric connector on it. The unit is very easy to modify per the tech article. #2. I did nothing for the Reverse lockout and my trans works fine. What exactly does the article in Car Craft say? Why is it necessary to rig up a switch? I don't want to damage my trans, but Mine worked great for the limited amount of driving I have on it... #3. GM Syncromesh fluid. Lingenfelter and Rippy both advised the use of it... it isn't cheap, but it makes for very smooth shifts! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

That was THE reason I didn't use those brakes in the beginning. However, Now that I'm going to run Antique tags, all that has changed. I'm looking at maybe running the front four piston caliper/ rotor setup I have on the front on the back.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I only use copper or braided lines!!!!!! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Contact SuperDan for a good explanation! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Nope, not yet. I'm also using a mechanical oil presure gauge and I recommend mechanical units if you can, they are more accurate. How much? I don't know. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

You can get the Griffin 26X19 units for under $180, and they flow nice. Large 1inch or larger tubes in the core and you save more weight! As for gauges, Myron is running the same setup I am, 2 5/8 autometers for the tri-hole pod in the center! Perfect fit to! The speedo and tach are 5 inch units! However, I'm using the 3 5/8" VDO programmable speedo because of the T56. I had to make a bezel for the unit to fit in the 5 inch hole! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

SpencZ, How much did you pay for that unit??? Just curious! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Glad to hear it. I was actually out in the garage tonight tinkering with the gauges and looking at the wiring under the dash... I suspect I will be gutting the wiring and re-doing some trick switches to get rid of suspect wiring woes in that rats nest. Alas, it will have to wait until I get back from Bike Camp! I leave Saturday morning for Florida and 500 miles of bicycling!!! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

That is correct, I had no problems with the unit and it looks sweet! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Nope, Mine came out of a 95 Firebird and was equiped with the older style bellhousing. Spencz, you will have to use the newer style block for it to work.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I use the Accell Plug wire protectors which slide over the plug wire and protect them from casual contact with the header. I'm also using the Flowtech Ceramic Coated block huggers and I can speak to the header wrap issue, it comes loose, and also traps a lot of unwanted heat on the headers. Go ceramic and you will be happy! On a similar note, my buddy with the 55 CHevy just had some cool Sanderson Cast aluminum manifold style headers delivered this week for his 55 and they are awesome. 1/2inch flanges and 1 7/8 diameter flow tubes on those puppies.... Mucho nice. $530 shipped. If I had it to do over again! Bolted right up and gave him the clearance he needed for his power steering box! Also does away with two of the bolts! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I hit 160+ in the last Zcar with an L6 motor in it. It was pushing into the 7500RPM range and the car was stable, but I wasn't comfortable. Car was loud and drivetrain had a buzz to it, not a vibration, but a definate buzz. I had the motorsport front and rear spoilers and side skirts, and a rear whale tail on it at the time. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I did a little research on the Rear spoilers and on belly pans a while back and what I lfound is that belly pans will help clean up the air under the car, however, I'm not 100% clear where venturies need to be plumbed within the sheetmetal of the pan. As for rear spoilers, I went kwith the 930 style rear wing because it generates over 500# of downforce at 140mph. To balance it, I'm also fabricating a chin splitter up front that will help as well. My car should be running somewhere in the range of 190-200mph, and I want it to be glued to the asphault. If it were me, I would go for as much front spoiler as I could. The spook helps, but there are a lot better "Surface Area covering" spoilers out there, like the MSA and Arizona Z spoilers. The rear spoilers made by most manufacturers now are more cosmetic than functional, as Michael points out in his post. The question is Do you want a good looking car, or do you want it to be functional as well? Look to the Touring cars, Nascar, and IMSA for fine examples of what REALY works and looks good! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited March 05, 2000).]

Well I can't tell you what to ask for this package. The big issue as you already know is the siamese bore. I think the fact that the block was discontinued and isn't found much in the aftermarket would be enough for me personally to stay away from it. Now, that said, I know of several guys running 400 blocks in different configurations and doing well. Jim Biondo is running one in his car and from what I read, it is a real screamer. So I guess I'd try to get it for a steal (Find out what it is worth and then "reasonably" low ball him) if his build reputation checks out! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Got your attention didn't I? Lets talk air breathers/ filters.... Everyone knows that K&N filter elements are the rage, 'cause they work. However, leaving them exposed under the hood with all that engine heat is not wise. Interestingly enough, This months issue of HotRod shows how to make a filtration system very similar to my ram air box filtering system (http://www.ramairbox.com). Mine cost me about $160 plus the K&N element, but the article in the magazine shows how to make this item for very little money out of pocket. I run my 4 inch ducting through the factory holes in the core support where the fresh air ducts plumb into the front of the car. This is the best spot to get air into the carb or TB! Check it out! mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Matt, What size tires and rims are you currently running? Will you plan to go to slicks? If so, how wide do you plan to go? How new are the struts and springs on your car? Does your car currently have sway bars on it? Limited funds cause a problem, however this is what I would do and in this order: If the car has a farely firm ride now, I would buy a front 1inch or larger sway bar 1st. I got one with urethane endlinks and mounting blocks for $160, powdercoated. I forget where I got it, but it was a company in Zcar magazine. I can look through reciepts when i get home. If you don't have one in the rear, I'd go to the junkyard and get one off a 77 or 78 280Z and put it on yours with new mounting hardware. Use urethane bushings from Energy or Gmachine. Then later, when you can afford it, I would convert the car to coilovers. They cost between $80-100 per corner for the spring and perch assembly. That will help with ride setup and also help to get you around the road course much better. New struts are also in order and I'd get a set of Boge's fom MSA, or Find a set of Tokicos or Konis, but you will pay premium for them. Unfortunately you can't use the units that Arizona Zcar is blowing out because they only fit late model Z's, not the 240-early260. Then once all is said and done with the suspension, I'd decide on what tire & wheel combo to use. I don't know how hard it is to get tireson the west coast, but I know that here on the east coast you won't get any used slicks for 15 inch wheels cheap. I'd check your local supplier for used "Test" slicks and find out if he gets or keeps 14inch tiresinstock. If he does, then find yourseld a nice set of 14X7 or 14X8 wheels and put a 9X23 slick on that car in the softest compound you can get. For the street, get a nice set of 15X7s with some V or Z rated tires on hand and you will notice a ride difference! Keep the back spacing to Zero offset on the rims and you should be OK with clearence in the fenders. Hope this helps, but thats what I would do! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited February 23, 2000).]

Well you need to get the threaded collar kit from either Carrera, Ground control, or Arizona Zcar. It consists of a threaded collar with a new 2.5 inch spring perch and top cap. Then yuo pick the spring rating you want. Each corner will run you $80-100 for Spring and assembly. You then cut off your perch, weld in the new threaded collar and set up your spring. The spring is much smaller in diameter and another added benefit is adjustable ride height! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Carlo mentioned "European car feel". If that is what you are looking for, then buy yourself a set of Boge struts. I used them for a little over a year when I blew out my 1st set of Koni struts and the Boges were sweet. They also come stock on Porshes, so you know they are quality pieces. I think MSA still sells them. As for Bilstien, I have their shocks on my lowered 1993 GMC Sierra step side and they work great. Truck handles so well that I have considered taking it to the road course to see what it would do! Carlos, did you do the JTR mod to the lower crossmember? Drilling the hole for the lower control arm to change its mount location might help with your bumpsteer. Also, I'd try to get a 1inch or larger sway bar up front, and put atleast a 3/4inch bar in the rear. It will stiffen up the car noticably, but the plus side is the body roll will disappear! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited February 23, 2000).]

Creamic coating is the way to go for two reasons: It looks great and doesn't require the constant clean up of polished aluminum or chrome, and it sheds heat better than anything else on the market. Your buddies street rod probably has a few extra ponies due to the fact that the fuel and air are being delivered to the heads a few degrees cooler than if it were chromed or or polished. My headers have been on the car for over a year and they look great. I don't have a bunch of miles on them, but they do look sweet! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'd plan on using the 700R4 over the T350 because of the street use you mention. THat overdirve is nice to have on the freeway. As for new or rebuilt, that's a tough call. A couple of guys here can speak to the expense of hopping these trans up, but I think you would be better off maybe keeping your as a backup and buying the new one. Auto Trans guys, what say ye? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

The Series is Vision and the PNs are: VDO Sender VDO-340020 $36.99 VDO 160mph VDO-437053 $113.95 Both from Summit! Cheers! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk