Mikelly

Michael, You say that fuel also drops? DO you mean that the volume of fuel drops? You see this in pressure pounds on the gauge? This may be my problem with the fuel pressure droip I'm experiencing... I don't have a problem with fuel smell, since I installed the vent roll over valve in my unit, but my cell is similar to yours... Let me know. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Owen would be correct. You don't need the resistor in place. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Bob, I'm on the east coast...Virginia to be exact... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Beware, you can get away with much smaller line when going EFI, It is actually better for the amount of line pressure! But for 400HP in a carbureted vehicle, you must use 1/2 inch line minimum... there is a good link out there somewhere to Mallory's tech site that specifies what size line to use and what issues will come up if you don't! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Nope... and that confirms something I suspected... I think RCI made those units for Triangle, although the fittings on the Triangle unit had o'ring ports on them....Summit might still have some of the RCI units.. did you ask them? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Midway Engineering will not sell direct to customers. They will however point you in the direction of someone with their product in stock! Mike Kelly ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Frank, you want Zero offset on that car. The hubs, and bearings were designed for zero offset from the factory and anything over 1/2 inch deviation will cause premature wear on tie rods, ball joints and bearings! Also 225/50-16s should clear... might have to grind off the outside edge to the spring perch, but that isn't a big deal and won't hurt anything... just make sure it doesn't rub! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Thats correct. Both are offset the same amount. This does several things... allows for the same driveline alignment side to side, and it also allows for less re-engineering of the factory mount position on the frame. The other points made above are also true. Weight bias to counter the weight of the driver. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Jegs carries them, just call and ask about their Triangle Engineering unit. As for the vent valve, mine is installed and venting to the atmosphere... no pumps, or anything to equalize pressure. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Why heck ya just dump it out back....... Of course Im kidding.... Quit looking at me like that, No really, I was kidding.... OK, I have had the same problem and what I have been doing when I get issues with bad gas... I run it in the lawn mower... that thing eats it all...water, no sweat, old and contaminated... Bring it on! Of course, 10 gallons is a lot, so I won't be buying any for the rest of the years! Other than that, I honestly couldn't tell you. Contact your county and ask if they have a Hazardous Waste disposal sight... Most do! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'm pretty sure you will have to swap out the bellhousing, but that ain't a big deal since most of the modern OD manual trans com with the bellhousing. I currently have the same gearing and the T56. It is a great trans and sounds like it would be a better pick for you, based on the HP you will probably be running. Now, if you are gonna drop the trans... Can I make a suggestion? Buy the JTR Mounts and hood latch relocator and go ahead and set the motor back a bit. You can do it with the thing in te car and a decent jack and some wood, or rent a cherry picker. Where are you located? I have one I'll loan you... It is that big a difference when you do the JTR conversion... Ask SuperDan, the guy that owns this board... I convinced him and .... well just ask him... Good Luck! Mike

Sadly, this is an area where few of us have dabled for various reasons. I'd suggest you contact the few vendors who support this conversion (John's Cars & MSA) and go forth on your own and document everything. Then you become the Guru! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

DEI is the name of the company and they make aluminized reflective shielding, tape, matts, and sleeves for automotive use to shield against heat. Summit and Jegs both carry the stuff and I got mine from the local hotrod shop. The stuff works great. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited May 25, 2000).]

You can get your factory lower control arms modified with Chromo threaded sleeves and Heim joints up front. That is what ZDr. did for me. This will allow up to 8 degrees of negative camber which you will never use, but you won't have to slot holes or worry about changing or modifying the upper isolator. I'm using a 3/4 inch rear sway bar... I mis-quoted the size previously in another post. Not sure about getting around the CV axle clearance issue.. I'd think 3/4 is sufficiant. To thick and you might have the problems that JTR describes. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'll weigh in here since I am having issues with fuel and have been for going on two months. Gas will boil, and vapor lock is not a myth. However, what I have learned is getting vaporlock to occur takes very ideal situations. If you are using braided line or wrapped your line in something that will reflect the heat, your gas boiling in the lines is nill. I tested this by running a line within two inches of the header... it boiled until I put the DEI tape on the line... No more boiling. To ensure your properly vented, I'd buy a vent roll over valve and have it installed next week along with the 1/2 inch fittings you are installing. Also, with the car running, ouch the line in every area you suspect is getting to much heat. If you can hold the line in your hand after the car is at operationg temp, then gas isn't boiling. If it is getting to hot, go get your self some DEI tape or sleeves and run the line in it. The stuff works great. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'd also comment that I have almost 300HP in a 4000# truck and a bonestock 700R4 that I beat on religiously every day and it hammers fine. I think if you are pushing hi HP and torque numbers like Byron or MikeZ or some of the others, you might have to get inside the sluch box for some upgrades. But anything less and I'd also say DRIVE IT! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Don't slip it for atleast 10 passed. Let it have time to bed in normally. Got to get throught the heat cycles... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Well I wouldn't sweat the battery box or any other "Minor" rust you may find. If it is just frame rails and floor pans, basic stuff... keep what you have. But if an A-pilar or firewall is gone.... call SpenceZ and see if he can help! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Personally I don't agree with JTR's "No rear bar" theory. My car, when not tormenting me with fuel issues and smoking exhaust, will pull a passenger through the drivers window on a hard right turn... without slide. I would run 3/4 degree negative on the rear with zero toe. You should be able to get 1 degree negative up front, don't sweat it! Possitive caster is where you will have issues. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

If it is primarely a street z, I'd set the front up with about 1 degree negative camber and zero on the toe out. I'd also try to adjust the TC rod so that you get a little positive caster... or shim it up so you can get 5 degrees or so positive... That would be a good setup. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Dennis, One of my best friends used to manage a parts store. One of the larger ones in my area, as a matter of fact. He used to give me Jobber price on all my parts because of my business license and the project I was building, racing cars... Anyway, the sad truth of the matter is what parts dealers buy in bulk for and then mark up.... Alternator for my 93 GMC 5.7 L was listing retail at $240, and I got it at jobber price for $38. Those V6 toyota calipers cost me $18 each without a core charge... crazy. Wish he still worked there... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

18 guage will be perfect.. almost too thick.. Mine was 20 guage and it allowed me to hand form it. I made mine out of three pieces and did a bit of overlap in the contoured areas. Then just work in the body filler in side to smooth the seems! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Strange things... I'm running out of clues... I have re-plumbed the system, so that no heat is causing problems with my fuel delivery system, and I have advanced the timing from 11 degrees to 16. Now the fuel pressure falls off from 7.5 psi down to 6 psi in about 20 minutes.. I carnk it back up to 7, and it takes another 10 minutes to fall to 6.3 psi. I'm gonna replace the regulator one more time with this configuration and see what happens, and I'm gonna take voltage readings at every electrical point in the fuel system, and the after that, if I don't find anything, it will have to be either in the carb or the fuel cell... I know I have asked this before, but any ideas would help... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I have the aluminum RCI unit and have the same concern. I put the dei matt between the cell and the muffler on the right side and have no heating issue now with the tank. So I guess the answer is, should be OK with the DEI matt. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Locutus.... You obviously don't need a life line here.... The above models are correct. 93-97 F-Body is what I used. Expect to spend about $180 -$200! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk