geotek

I FINALLY found a good 240 doner with NO (yes, I said NO) rust! It's a '73, and has been garaged for 14 years! It came from California, lived in Arizona, and has been garaged in N. Texas for years. I have a rust bucket 240 that I was going to use, but I wasn't happy with all of the work ahead. I have been looking for this Z for years (did I mention: $900!!!). QUESTION: I'm an adult with a full time job (shiftwork, at that) and I go to college. I have two more semesters (summer '06) until I graduate, and have time to put this together. I have one basket case VW Cabriolet in the garage now, and I need to protect the new Z. I thought a car cover would be good, but is there anything I should know before I buy some cheap-assed car cover? I will need to store it for about a year. Would a tarp be OK?

Well, I installed them anyway. This is my daily driver. I can't keep it out of service too long. This is the first time I've removed the fuel rail and injectors. After reinstalling everything, I can understand the need for protection. This started out as a simple problem. For some reason, the one-piece plastic injector holder broke on two injectors. This allowed the large rubber seal to protrude from the plastic injector holder. There was also a gas leak. I replaced the one-piece plastic injector holder with the two-piece aluminum injector holders from my parts car and replaced the injectors with a couple of the best ones from the parts car. New seals all around. This also allowed me to find some bad vacuum hose going to the distributor advance(VERY bad-big holes!) I appreciate the prompt response from Mudge and SleeperZ. When your daily driver is out of service, it's great to know that there is somebody out there that KNOWS what to do!

I've pulled all of my injectors from my daily driver (stock '83 ZX n/a.) I have a couple of injectors that have cracked and broken plastic 'covers' that go over the injectors. What is this plastic used for? Can I completely remove it? The part I am talking about is the portion of the injector nozzle that is inserted in the intake. There is a small hole on the end where the fuel comes out. That fuel rail was no fun to remove, could've been designed for maintenance in mind....

My parts car is a 5-speed, '79 280ZX 2+2. I wanted to use the diff for my 240 v-8 conversion. I'm not ready to use it, yet, but I wanted to see what the rear ratio was. On the cover nameplate it says '397'. As far as I know, it should have a 3.7:1. What does the '397' mean? Does it have anything to do with the ratio? I guess I could spin the tire and count the drive shaft revolutions, but is there an easier way? (always looking for an easier way- usually it ends up being the HARDER way) George

I bought a '73 rust bucket recently and it has that set up. I don't know anything about it, but someone who does told me it's crap. I have no experience with it, but I don't know why it wouldn't work well. If you'd like more information, I can post some info from the intake. George Rust Technician

I just put a new clutch in the daily driver ('83 N/A ZX- stock.) I sent my wife to NAPA for some gear oil (what a helper!) and she brought back some 75-w150. It seemed pretty thick, but summer is coming, and I had to go to work the next day. Now when I start out at 5:00am in the mornings, it's almost impossible to hit 2nd gear, and difficult to get 3rd. Once the car warms up, everything is fine. What type/weight of oil do YOU use successfully? I live in Texas, and it will soon be hot as hades. Should I just wait for summer?

My new '73 has a tow hitch under the bumper. It's not mounted TO the bumper, but somehow mounted under it. I don't want it. I haven't checked the mounting situation yet. George

I just bought a '73 240 rust bucket that has a '74 motor with the Holley carb. and a Cartech intake system. I've been told that this may be a lousy setup, for some unexplained reason. Is anybody familiar with this setup? The Cartech web site has no info about this.

I thought I had a bookmark with a company that made fiberglass hoods that offered a hood with an integrated cowl induction scoop. I can't find the link now. I am looking for a company that offers a cowl that is not too high, something that fits the lines of the hood, without looking too radical. Has anyone found a good cowl? George

Yes, this is off-topic: (somewhat) I saw a Lexus SC 430 today. I need those side lights! I've been looking at side light markers. I want a flush, sharp oval shape, that would look good with the lines of a 240Z, and offer low wind resistance. I'm going for the smooth look. The Corvette has some oval rear side lights, but none in the front. Are there any other cars, easily obtainable, that have front and rear oval side lights? I think the flat oval lights really go with the curves of the early Z's. My wife's '97 Sable wagon has front and rear oval lights, but they're too large. The scale wouldn't be 'right'. I have seen the Hyundai conversion, but I don't like the shape of those lights. Too angular. I'm looking for curves. What are you using, or what have you seen that would fit this criteria? 1. flat 2. oval 3. has front/rear George

Those are some great suggestions! It's amazing what a difference a small change can make! In DCP_3319, where did those lights originate, and what color is that rear surround area? It looks like a gunmetal color. Small change, nice effect! I bought my labor of love (a rust bucket '73) last weekend, so I'm a long way from making this decision. This thread has really opened up the possibilities in my mind. I like the stock look, but the rear end leaves many options. Owen- great job using photoshop! That would have taken me months! George

Thanks John G! I found their website at ftp://www.rustrepair.com/datsunz.pdf They have Tabco body panels, actually cheaper than I expected, too. They also have a few interior parts. I will definately check them out!

I'm about to buy a '73 240 for $250 for my long-delayed V8 project. The body panels, firewall and doors look great, but the drivers side rocker panel is shot. Where did you find your replacement?

Hey Miles- What kind of intake are you using? I will be using the Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap, which is kind of tall. Since I'm building my engine without a car (still looking) I don't have any idea what kind of clearance I'll have. The engine mounts look like they're easy to install and the trans mount looks like it's easy to make. Where did your shifter exit through the shifter hole? Dead center? Fore/aft? Left/right? George

I just bought an '89 Corvette ZF 6-speed. I need to pick it up this week. Paid $830 on E-bay. I wanted a T-56, but ran out of patience. I don't know anything about this ZF. Does anybody have any good ZF links?

I'm convinced- What year and model used the 4.11? I guess the 3.90 would be a suitable alternative?

Great idea! I didn't even think of that (I don't know why)! That's the way to go. Thanks for the whack on the side of my head, George

I've never had to work on a fan clutch before, and every time I hear of a bad one it is related to overheating problems. Can they SOUND bad without overheating? I have a definite rotating noise coming from the front of my engine. I verified that it isn't an idler pully, alternator, or power steering pully. None of the pullies are hot to the touch. Can my fan clutch be making this noise? I have no overheating problems. The noise seems to go away once the car has been driven for about 10 minutes. This is in my '83 280ZX, 2-seater, 220K miles.

OK, I bought a 1979 2+2 at the sheriffs auction for $30. I have a 1983 2-seater with a clutch that is on it's last legs. My intention is to pull the 79 motor and trans., rebuild both with a new clutch, when the time is right, do a swap with my 83 tired and worn eng/tranny. The details: The 'doner' 79 is a 2+2 with a N/A L28 (and a missing distributor?), 5-speed tranny (a good thing...) My 'recipient' is an 83 2-seater w/ 5-speed man.trans. N/A. I know the 2+2's have a larger clutch, should be a good thing... The speedo cable, problem? I believe the ratios are different- I have an all-digital 83- any suggestions? I plan to use the R200 rear end of the doner car for my V8-in-240 swap (at a later date, have the engine, no car-yet) The 83 280ZX is my daily driver- a 2-seater- what else should I take advantage of while I have it out of comission? Headers? Cold air intake? Any other CHEAP horsepower available for the doner 79 engine that I should consider? Is there anything I should watch out for in this 79-to-83 swap? This will happen after the holidays, if the clutch in the 83 lasts that long.... geotek@hpnc.com

How about any comparisons with the Chevy Fast-Burn heads?

I don't know what the RIGHT answer is, but I just bought a 327 for $100. Yes, I'll have to do some work, but as far as I'm concerned, work can be an effective substitute for money.

in Granbury, about 35 miles SW of Fort Worth. quote: Originally posted by Galando: Geotek, Where in north Texas? I'm in Plano near Dallas. G.

I like lo-tech. I want a street-friendly Chevy V8 for a 240Z (yet to be bought) that doesn't need computers or "technicians". I just want some good kick-you-in-the-ass low-end torque and a solid forgiving manual transmission. I want to start with the engine rebuild. I don't want to get too radical, I'm not looking for a 1/4 miler, just something that will power me soundly out of a corner and streak me on a straightaway. Is that asking too much? What years should I be looking for? Is there anything I should be avoiding? I am going to be searching North Texas junkyards for an engine, where can I find the transmission? Is there a good combo that I should be looking for up-front? I am guessing that I want about 300hp with some good torque. I understand that I need to find the JTR book, and a quality 240Z body. Yes, I will be making suspension, braking and body modifications, just to keep everything balanced. What common pitfalls should I avoid early on? And yes, price IS a consideration. I don't want to put $20,000 in a fun, daily driver!