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HybridZ

5.Z

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Everything posted by 5.Z

  1. honestly radiator isnt an issue. I know theres a lot of info on here that said you "should" upgrade but PERSONAL experience when I run my 260z with 302 i used the STOCK radiator kept the temp at 180* THEN NOW ITS BOOSTED-61mm holset and guess what Stock radiator and temp is at 180*(Im in California weather) I am using a ford taurus 2 speed fan but the 2nd speed NEVER kicked in b/c it does not get that hot. btw is your a/f a wideband?
  2. Curious why not just drop in another 5.0 engine? For 400 a piece I would save myself the headache of rebuilding and guesswork.
  3. A few points that you guys might want to consider.(I have a finished 302/t5 swap so im basing this on my set up and experience)-budget build in mind- 1. The transmission crossmember that the ls1 guys use WORKs for t5 just needs to drill 2 holes. 2. I would seriously consider PULL slave cylinder it's cheap and it works($50-100) plus if it leaks you don't have to pull the transmission. Buy a master cylinder that's 1"-it's what I use and it works great with ss line. 3. Get a Taurus 2 speed fan works great and It actually cools down my turbo v8, using this fan on a stock 260z radiator. In California weather. 4. Block hugger headers will need to be dented and shorties header will not work/will require more work. 5. Get stock mustang 5.0/t5 driveshaft and have a ds shop cut it and have the jtr diff ends mounted. From experience I don't think that this really needs a "kit" as it's easily piece together. The only thing that really require finding is the engine crossmember but from what I have read there's a couple people that already offers this. Like this one.(I did not use this mount but is this a kit that you guys are after? Or more "fully complete"? http://www.technoversions.com/
  4. are you planning on weighing it after? I'm curious to see the end weight of this thing.
  5. looks like i have to wait longer to finish my flare. I ran out of welding rod and the welding shop that has the little tiny rods for my welder is closed on the weekend. believe it or not but even with this tire my car still burns out on first gear and a little bit on second on a hard launch and when the boost kicks in.(but hopefully when the ground is hotter it will hold) AND THIS IS ON 4PSI LOL and when/where in the summer? Im definitely down to see the Zs in the bay. and sorry for the bad quality friend have my camera and this was taken with my outdated phone lol.
  6. Thanks gollum for confirming that. I don't mind doing the body work since I actually like having wide flares. I actually finished cutting up my fenders this weekend and fitted my 325/50r15 nitto. So any tires I put on here should fit. Next week I'm hoping to get my custom flare done.
  7. Yes I am aware of that. .5" is the exact number. I have search threads on google and found a few pics of 295 Fitting on a 9.5" with very liltle "bubble" In fact it only seems to bubble up as much as my bfgoodrich 315 on a 17x10.5 Recommended or not seems to run fine as people have run and if comes down to it yes I'm willing to risk it. Even though it doesn't seem that much of a risk.but to each his own. And for those that would argue to just stick with 285 I would prefer the 295 as it is only 25" tire compare to the 285 which is a 25.7" if memory serves me right. Which should up my overall gearing. Anyways I don't mean to be rude but I have done my research so if anyone could answer my original question that would be great. I did a little bit of a calculator on this. The front rims have 4.48" backspace and back have 4.5"backspace right?
  8. clearance issue where? if its fender related no problem mines cutout now just trying to set up my wheel/tire combo. my rear fender has been trimmed to fit 325/50r15 yes 28" tire. but i have a correct backspace rim. and thanks but yes I am fully aware that 285/40 is taller than the 275/40 and yes i am fully aware that 295/35 is shorter in diameter as it is after only a 25.1" tire. ideally of course I should match it with 255/40 and 295/35 or 275/40 with 315/35 but i wanted to see if 275 can fit up front and if 295/35 can fit outback. without rubbing the suspension stuff.
  9. Anyone fitted 285/40r17 on the rear and 275/40 upfront with this rims? Did it need spacer or anything? Aside from flares ofcource. Or maybe 295/35 for rears?
  10. ya I know this aswell. Its actually wasnt as bad as i thought it was. I used to run 255 in 17" upfront and didnt have problem with that. The only problem i had was the tire I had for some reason used to chase the road. Hopefully it was just because of the tire not size.
  11. anyone know what specific model rims those are? i have a pair at home and would be great if i can get another pair for the back
  12. oh okay. sorry completely missunderstood you. my autocross vocab is at a bare minimum that i thought push=understeer and when i read your coment i thought you meant dual characteristic when on/off throttle. makes a lot more sence now thanks alot. Couple of question. Will a taller diameter in the front help reduce the understeer? as much as i would like to put wider up front it simply isnt made. and my other question is. is the understeer that extreme? i havent really driven a lot of cars besides mk3 supras(i have owned a few before this) I guess what im asking is will an amateur driver like myself notice it. b/c i simply doubt ill be able to even push this machine close to its limit. i simply lack the practice or skill in autocross.
  13. Yes i am aware of this. and in my defense I did not name the tire because only one manufacturer make it in that size. Pirelli PZero. and that seem to provide plenty good traction. I have also stated that Im not just going super wide tire for just plain performance I simply Like WIDE tires on small diameter. I have a custom diamond racing wheel now 15x10 with 4" BS. which i originally got for the back but will be putting it in the front. then will be ordering another pair in 15x12. At just $100 a wheel and 1 week downtime its just a phone call away. and no flare. I plan to make a widebody kit (im working on my fiberglass hood scoup to clear my blowthrough carb right now after that im making my widebody fenders. heres the look that im after this is one of my favorite datsun. and plan on making similar setup.but in all white.
  14. Yes this car is basically build for drag racing more than anything. I even have 325/50r15 dr ready for next season . Just once in a while strip car. mostly will see street driving. Now with wide rears traction should be plenty and I want at a minimum 245 so I atleast have some rubber upfront. And yes I know it will depends on a lot of factors but would a 265 handle better than a 245 on the same car with 345 rears? At 265 front will be about 1" taller than rears. As for driving I'm a light to very light grip racer or driver. I go to the back roads with twisties once in a while and I would like my car to be able to handle that. Or at the very least be able to gun it at an on ramp without the car feeling unstable.
  15. What would you recommend? Would 265/50 work out better even though it's 1" taller than the 345"? I don't want an unstable responding car that understate off throttle and oversteer on gas. Seems too unstable for me. Specially since I'm not a hardcore auto crosser. What's about 275 front 315 rear in 17". Will be a bit more money on rims but should bring in better performance?
  16. My z has a 5.0 v8 turbo and pushing around 350whp low boost. Plan on running 450 till I get an aftermarket block. Then I will be looking to get 600whp. I would like the wheels to be just one set so I can take it to the strip and be able to go to the back roads and have a spirited runs. Why so wide? While 275 dr would have probably been sufficient I really like WIDE tires. But at the same time small diameter. So at these sizes it should give me enough straight line traction. Enough braking traction. But how well will it handle with such staggered set up? It's already heavier up front due to turbo. What's your take? Edit: has poly bushing all around and tokico springs/shocks.
  17. Okay thanks. Ya Im not a member of the other site. I guess I'll join and see what info they have. And I must have missed the 5 lug swap. But I don't think I'm looking for a swap since I'm just curious is you can just drill the bolt pattern on the hub and bolt the wheels you want. I found the brake upgrades as well as the cobra 5 lug conversion but did not see any about just getting the bolt pattern drilled out. Also I did not find one about how big a hole to drill or how many to drill on the poly bushing. People simple mentioned drilling holes on the back bushing.
  18. thanks and yes all the bushing and ball joints will be replaced. And curious where can I post these questions? I have done research before posting so I thought it might be valid. And side question anyone taken there front hub to a machine shop and get a 5x114.3 bolt pattern? It's seems that all is needed is to drill a 5 lug pattern and buy new studs and you can use an 5 bolt wheels.
  19. Thanks alot. I forgot to ask another question. Since my steering knuckle/ball joint froze up and the bushings where shot and. Full of debris I will be replacing it. But my smart ass forgot to mark the steering knuckle before removal on the adjuster nut. How do I align this up? Do I need to take it to get this part aligned? Or can I do it myself?
  20. Okay so I finally decided to do my suspension on my early 74 260z. I'm starting with the front and ran into a bit of a problem or well more like double checking questions. The condition of my suspension is well...shot. All of them. The bushings are all cracked to the max the ball joint has no more cover etc. I'm assuming it was all originals. Anyways so my first. 1. I did not know that the strut had a bearing. Can I repack this bearing with wheel bearing grease? It seems to ride/glide fine when I put my weight on it and spin it. It still has grease on it and it seems to be in good condition. 2. My bump stop is gone which way do bump stop go? It's a cone shape bumpstop. And is there a special way to attach it? 3. I done some reading on this topic but wanted more detail. Tension rod poly bushing. So from what I gather I can use full poly as long as I drill hole in the back bushing(back meaning the one further from the front tires) but is there a specific hole size and hole amount I should drill? I understand that I can use rubber but I rather use what I got since I still got plenty to buy. 4. I think I understand this correctly. I can put the bolt through control arm bushing during install bu only torque it down when the weight is on the suspension correct? And torque to 40lbs. I think that's it for now. Thanks for any reply
  21. Oh okay so it is 4.5 from rims then. Well that is perfect looks like about half to a full inch clearance. I should be able to get away with 3.25 bs just to be on the safe side. Thanks
  22. Well I'm aiming for as low cost as possible. I figured I don't get that much difference in traction wise during launch so right now I can't justify coils. It cost me $50 to put that flares so it's alot cheaper than 500. I would rather spend the money on good tires and run stock suspension than run coils and crappy tires.
  23. is this 4.5" BS measured from rim or measured from tire(when tires installed)?
  24. are you 100% sure on this? Have you measured it? b/c I just FINISHED measuring and looks like my 74 early 260z HAS 5+" backspacing and that a 5" spacing(including tire is just the max you can run. Are you talking about the backspace on rims im assuming? so heres how I did the measurement. I have a 3/16" spacer otherwise the cobra R rims/tire is right on the strut tower. so without that spacer it basically rubs a little is what im saying. 3/16 is smallest size i found localy. Measuring the rim/tire combo I got the BS of 7 5/16 to 7 6/16(lets stick with 7 5/16 since its less) Im using a 2" spacer/adapter. so that leaves with 5 5/16 BS lets subtract 5/16 for clearance. were left with 5" backspacing WITH tire mounted. hopefully im still making sense here. SO why wouldnt a 3.5" work? wouldnt it fit just right? assuming the tire does not grow more than 5/16? so from my understanding radials arent suppose to grow correct? and the drag slicks grow 3%? so 5/16 should in theory be plenty of space?
  25. im not worried about the tires much, since right now they have nitto/bfg/MT and I seriously doubt all of those would discontinue there tires in the 315/325 range. Okay so I found an online link http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/5-0-mustangs/141857-8-8-gt-rear-end-weight.html according to that the cobra R that I have on NOW weight about 26lbs. According to tirerack http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+T%2FA+Drag+Radial+2 my gforce t/a weight in at 28lbs. so with just tire and rim that I have now totals up to 54lbs thats not counting the spacer. the new set up tire is 37 rim is 20 so thats 57 with the spacer my setup now would probably be around the same weight. SO weight wise it will be thesame. Except I should get better traction since theres more meat, thread width is 11.6 vs. 10.4 is about 1.2" each side gained. side wall is also thicker. anyways overall I think its a better choice. But the question is do you guys think I would be good with 3" backspacing? I DO NOT WANT TO ADD ANY SPACER. what is your take? will 3" bs clear? thanks
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