5.Z

thanks and I have considered that aswell. My car will be a turbo v8 and plans on pushing 500whp-which is why im changing my combo. so im not really that worried b/c I feel that these new combo weight the same as my current one. My current setup is this: 4 to 5 lug 2 piece adapter 17x10.5 cobra R 315/35/17 I feel that with the weight of spacer + rim + tire Its similar if NOT MORE than the diamond racing + tire setup. What do you think? do you think the DR and 325 weight more? and the plus is that I get to get rid of the spacer/adapter so I can take it to the drag strip if I want to.

well I'm once again changing my combo. This time im setting up the car for drag radials. the rim of choice: 15x10 Im ordering it so i can have ANY backspace I need. The car is set up with stock suspension with custom 4" flare(which im thinking of increasing to a widebody 5-6") but thats later on. anyways the tire im thinking of getting: Mickey Thompson ET Street 325/50r15 Im thinking since according to their website sidewall to sidewall is 13.1 SO on a 10" rim it will add about 1.5" additional backspace. and since its an early 260z with stock suspension my clearance is 4.5" backspace or is it 5" im thinking with 3" back space on the RIM and with the additional width from the tire(1.5") im at 4.5" backspace in TOTAL. which should put me close to the suspension but not enough to hit it. IS THIS CORRECT? whats your take? PS: I know its 28" tire. and I just like the wide tire so I KNOW I DONT NEED IT ALL. I just like it. Thanks

Oookkkaaayyy..... That was a good read but I was asking about tt/turbo timer not evc. Personally I like my hks evc 3 wich I got for 130 shipped used. Hasn't had any issues with that.

I'm surprise you didn't just buy the plug and play harness. That's how I connected mine in the supra and had zero problems. I have a voltometer already. I guess I will order a tt and just try to hardwire it. If anyone else have any pointers or to watch out for hardwiring one in a Z please post. Thanks

I been wanting to install a voltometer on my early 74 260z (it would have save me getting towed too had I known that my alternator was going.) So I was looking at guages and then I remember the apexi turbo timer I had used before. The thing is pretty small an would serve as cooling down my turbo and shows volt. Anyways I'm curious if anyone else have one? And how did you guys hardwire it? I mean whichwires did you use? I was googling this stuff and found a company that sells one under 240z but his selling a universals kit so I doubt it comes with a plug and play harness Any input? Thanks

lol This is the second forum I belong in that converted to this. funny Im lost on both of them. I guess i have to get used to it lol.

Not sure if all t5 are alike but mustang t5 you will need to remove the tranny to get the forks out. There's a hole in the fork where the trowout bearing and where in tranny shaft go. I if you can't wiggle it out with tranny out unbolt the bellhousing from tranny and slip it out that way. I don't know about your 2nd question but I'm using a tilton 1" for master since I got it for $30. So far it works great.

Smog has never stop people from owning such car here in Cali. I had a supra not to long ago mods up the a**, the only thing stock was the shell. when smog comes around I simple shell out $150 more and got my supra "smoged" if you know what I mean. When I sold my supra the next owner sure did not have any issues " smoging" it. While I do agree it's nicer/less hasle to own a smog exempt car(which is why I choose 74 for my swap) a nice swap specially a maf efi ford, I think is worth shelling out extra when smog is due. And I think the price is just right. My swap alone cost me around 2500 IN PARTS and that's only because I got the shell for $350, got a 302 for $125 and t5 for free. ( I work on my brother in laws mustang so I got some parts free.) Not to mention mines carb.

I would get a tight tuck hugger headers from summit. On mine I have a different mount and used the 1" taller engine mount from an older 289 mustang. It worked out perfect that the exhaust manifold did not hit anything and have plenty of clearance. Zero issues. But the engine sits 1" higher. I'm not sure how well it would work on yours since your mount is different. On the side note I choose to mount it 1" higher for now and will use a lower mount when I go turbo.

very nice but are you sure your headers will work? it doesnt hit the firewall?

Just Thought id share mine. Simple design and so far 500 miles no issues. Its for T5 off a mustang wich is pull type towards the engine I used a longer bolt for the bellhousing to engine so i can use the bolt to hold the brace. Basically holds the cylinder in place like any other design. got the plate from osh and used the rest to make other mounts. (Disregard the bolt on the end of the cylinder -it was removed after i reliaze it didnt need to be there lol)

Very nice. Curious are you going carb or efi?

Well I found out what it is. The first time I looked I guess it hasn't been hit enough. I launch it hard acouple more time and sure enough when I look under the ebrake has a little shiny spot or grind. And my front diff mount is toast.

Cheap would be the reason I'm going to get mine welded. It's a temp fix to hold the v8 trq untill I save up enough to convert to LSD

Okay so first of it's a 302/v8 260z car runs great unless I launch the car hard and the car squat I hear a clacking noise. Like clack clack clack...... Sound like a bearing but this does not happen when I step on it when the car is moving. It only seems to do this when the car squat and the front goes up. Is this wheel bearing related or diff? The car has a stock r180 wich I will get welded soon.

Found some thanks guys

I don't know how I misread that I must hve been looking at 64-74 mustang 4 lug. No matter I will just get a 1" spacer/adapter than converts 114.3 to 108 and at the same time add the spacer that I need Thanks guys

Okay so I got some rims for free. It's an oz rims that was discontinued and came off a mustang fox. So the bolt pattern is the same except the ofset is to much. The rim is labeled 8jx16h2 so basically an 16x8 rim. And it's also labeled "et20" so +20 offset? I wasn't sure so I measure the back spacing wich is 5.5" and since is 8" wide using a table online it shows the offset to be at +25. So my question is this I want to use one of those 1" spacer to fit the rims all around. The car is an early 260z with stock suspention. 1" should be enough right? To compensate for +25 offset since stock is zero. I just want to make sure before I by the spacer. An I plan to lower with tokito spring and strut will I run into problems then? The spacer I'm looking at are available on 1", 1.5" and 2". So if you guys think thicker spacer would work better let me know. And no flares. Stock body Ps I know its easier to get the right offset but i like the rims and i dont want to sell it because it was given to me to use on my car. And comments about using or not using spacers please keep them out I have read the recomended and what not.

I'm just tryin to get one asap as a temp that would bolt to stock holes so I can drive it.

That would fit the stock mount on an early 260z. Mainly lookingfor driver side but if you have a pair let me know you price shipped to california 94061. Looking for a temp so functionality is key. Pm me Thanks

Well seeing that my clutch switch iether not working or I don't have one it won't work for me. Anyways thanks a lot you guys for bringing up good info. Specially the alarm inside sound preaty good. I just hope it doesn't go on when I'm driving LOL.

I understand that if they want it bad enought they will get it but I want to give them as much trouble before they take off with it. Or atleast enough time for someone to notice. And I have no hood vent so the only way would be to try and break the stock hood. The hood pins looks interesting I never seen those. I think I'll go that route. With the electric one what happens if your battery dies completely. Like maybe a short or accidentally left your light on how would you open the hood?

Well I'm installing an alarm, since I have the interior rip apart I can hide them so it not seen. Problem is with an alarm once your in the car pop the hood open and cut the power to an alarm and it's useless. So I want a way to lock the hood. First idea is adding a separate battery just for the alarm. But I want this to be a secondary. 2nd idea is adding one of those quick release hood lock thing but instead of using the pins use a small lock. But I don't want a lock on my hood LOL Any others? I was thinkng of relocating the hood release elsewhere aswheel but that's just a matter of finding it. I just want it to have extra security "just in case" FYI I already have a fuel pump cutoff switch installed.

well i complained to summit and all they told me was that its how they make them. i figure thats what they would say. they did offer me a return if I wanted to. but since this muffler seems to be the best qoute for quite and cheap I guess ill keep it. quick questions. are all superturbo muffler reversible? i have read that they are but it said unless noted otherwise. i looked all over the dynomax box and it did not specify. what do you guys think? on summit it said intlet is offset and outlet is center.

Also I take it that the twin bullet is before the y pipe? So a bullet muffler on each 2.5 pipe?