niner11

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html This is the link that helped me switch over to an internally regulated alternator. Hope it can add a little info

Thanks Justin. Still tuning but the car runs very well so far. Since there wasn't a big price difference I opted for the water cooled housing when I ordered the turbo.

Few more pics showing the actuator bracket.

Just for data, I ended up using this turbo and it fits with a stock turbo intake and exhaust manifold. There is some conflicting info on the board but this setup needed a 1/2 inch spacer on the exhaust manifold and a little grinding on the compressor housing. Longer mounting studs from Mcmaster carr were used. Another problem was that the nissan factory four bolt downpipe mount needed to be converted to a 3 bolt flange and the waste gate actuator needed a fabricated bracket to work on this setup.

Terry, I noticed a 10" and an 8 1/2" are both available relatively cheap so I just measured mine and ordered the smaller of the two. I figured that the check valve had gone bad and boost had killed my booster but it seems fine. This newer motor pulls much better vac so maybe that was the cause. Thanks

Thanks for the link. When I looked at all of the auto part stores online nothing was listed for a 74 but if you look up a 78 and start cross referencing it shows the part number that I have seen posted here before. Cardone 535104 which is an 8 1/2 " booster. The price is currently 91.88 plus core and a much better option for me than MSA. Thanks

I've got a late 74 260 that I converted to a turbo....well my brake booster just developed a leak and I am having very little luck finding one locally for a 74. Does anyone know if a 78 280 will interchange with my 74? I am a ware that a zx booster will not work but can't find any specific posts that talk about swapping one for a z. Thanks, Chuck

Cygnusx1, I never thought about it till I saw your pics but did you ever measure all of the lifter springs and see if there were differences between them. I bet McMaster-Car would have something to replace them. Chuck

Q: What is the "G and V" jumper pads on the PCB? A: If you look at the schematic, you will see that the fast-idle relay contact can be jumpered to either supply +12V when the relay is closed, or supply gound when the relay is closed. These are the jumper pads for this. If you want the relay to provide +12V when it closes (i.e. the fast idle solenoid is grounded on the other end), then put a jumper between the "V" and center terminals - look at the photo link above to see this. If you want the relay to provide ground when closed, then place the jumper from the "G" terminal to the center one. This is the only jumper on the board. That took forever to find but it's in the archives now. Will test it out tomorrow

Well, I programmed my MSII to use my fidle output to control an electric fan but still having problems with it. Under port settings I have it set up per the MS manual. Using a relay cable and relay board to send a ground signal from pin 6 of the relay board (jp-1) to the ground of my electric fan relay. When using the stim or when I have my laptop hooked up in the car it shows that the "port" is on when the fan conditions are met and the color changes to red in the lower right hand corner of megatune. Everything seems to work but I can't get the ground signal from pin 6. If I ground the fan relay wire that I have going to pin 6 the fan works no problem. Wondering if anyone has any ideas as to what else needs to be done to make this work. I looked it up and it seems that pin 30 on the db37 sends the signal to the relay board. Am I missing something obvious here? Thanks, Chuck

Thanks, I made a wooden timing chain holder from what a few other posters had described. I think it start at about 1.25 inches wide and tapers into a "V" Might not want to create new MSII maps for the higher compression head so probably going the P90 route..again

Been searching but I can't seem to find out what to do with cam timing when swaping heads. I have a 280zxt with a p90a and before removing the head I found TDC on number one and marked both links of the timing chain and sprocket. Well as soon as the head came off I noticed my #2 exh valve was pretty damaged. I don't feel like putting any money into this head so either one of my p79's or another p90 will go back on. Here is my question: When putting a different head or a different model head (p90a to a p79 for example) back on this motor is it all the same as long as I put the same sprocket on a different head? Just line up the marked links and use the #1 hole as before. Thanks, I imagine it is the same but never heard anyone discuss it.

Thanks for the responses. It was looking like I was going to use an Ishino gasket but I found 2 factory head gaskets and had them mailed to my local Nissan dealer. Price was still the same...about 60 bucks each. Good to hear that they look just like Ishino's. I spoke with a few Napas and it seems that they don't carry Victor Reinz anymore....its all felpro now

I have been searching for a factory nissan head gasked for my 83 turbo motor but have been unable to find on. The second most recommended head gasket seems to be a Victor Reinz. Some threads mention that these can be had a NAPA but I dont see them listed. Another option is the Inshin ? sp......that seems to be much more available. Does anyone have a source for a factory head gasket or a Victor Reinz? Thanks, Chuck

Nizm0Zed, in the earlier datalogs you can see the interference showing spikes everywhere. Most if not all of that went away when I grounded the ends of the relay cable, db9 cable and the MS unit itself. This was before that magnecor wires were put on the car but it looks like the grounds solved my reset problems. Not sure what was causing the injector drivers to burn out but your idea has merit. One odd thing was that I had 5amp fuses installed on the relay board but my 20amp FET's were still frying(Q1and Q5) I did rewire the cars charging circuit during all of this but both MS and the relay board have protections for over voltage that should have protected these components. Not sure about heat since they would fail (Q1) within seconds after the car was running.

Even clicking injectors should be relatively quiet. If you have a battery charger hook it up. Put a voltmeter on the battery and see what you've got ( before hooking up the charger) and check out the simple stuff first. Like the battery cables and grounds. I just did a MSII install and had all kinds of problems that turned out to be external to the box itself.

Thanks everybody. I will isolate the alternator like z-ya said. Currently running 32lb high impedance injectors. On my last datalog (from a little while ago) it was the voltage that seemed to vary a bunch even when the alternator was charging. Btw, the car runs great. I'm really happy with the install and appreciate all of the help that I've gotten over the last 6 months or so. For right now I've limited boost to about 10lbs. here is what i'm running: 280zxt using an 82 dizzy wire per moby's/diy's instructions for MSII t3/04e .63ar (will not fit without a spacer) 32lb injectors/pallnet fuel rail at 45lbs a pete down pipe from this board 240sx tps

Both Dave's thanks. I just put a meter on the battery and it shows .015 to .025ac while charging. When measuring the case to the neg side of the battery I get .015 dc. Cygnusx1, I have been changing the tps/map dot threshold values to make sure that interference doesnt trigger accel. Seems to be smoothing things out a little. As for noise suppression, I will try a variety of filters and condensors and see what happens.

Thanks for taking a look. On the datalog about half of it is on just battery voltage and then I rev the engine a little and the alternator comes online. That is when the volts go from about 11 to almost 13.... and the idle starts to suffer. I have a few condensers to install and I was wondering what side of the coil to install one of them on. Also one for the alternator. Thanks, Chuck

I've been having problems with a crappy idle and noticed something tonight. Before the ms install I converted my externally regulated voltage regulator to a zx internal one. That being the case you sometimes need to rev the engine a little off idle for a second to get the car to charge. I noticed tonight that the idle was pretty good until the alternator came on line and then it was stable but sounded like a miss. The first part of the datalog is just on battery voltage and at about 1488..... or so I think you can see the battery volts go above 12.2. That's where the idle begins to deteriorate. Is this just a noisy alternator or is something else obvious going on here? I've only had this thing running a day so I thought I'd ask before I went out and bought more stuff for this install. Thanks for any ideas you guys might have. alternator noise demo.zip

Here is the latest. Seems like it's running a lot better now for some reason datalog for hybrid.zip

Thanks for your help and good catch on the timing numbers. I had changed my timing setting after I sent the msq. This msq is cygnusx1's...I only had to change my timing, the map sensor I'm using and a few other minor things. He has been a big help since this engine is from a junkyard and has a new turbo and intercooler setup on it. I just got the car to run pretty good a few mins ago. Even with all of the noise from the wires I found that if you ground the relay cable housing it quiets things down a lot. I'll data log a run in a few mins and post it. Chuck

Naviathan, skip pulses are set at 3 280zxt ms settings.zip

Welding up the exhaust right now..... Not sure about the skip pulse setting, I'll check in a bit and post it. I read a step by step article on how to do that Datman. I hope it doesnt come to that but I'm not ruling anything out at this point.

Thanks for the suggestion. Right now I have the alternator disconnected to limit the variables a bit. Would that filter be just to quiet the alternator noise?