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Nelsonian

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Posts posted by Nelsonian

    Blasting vs. sanding (rust repair)

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted · Edited by Nelsonian

    It would be a tough pill to swallow going back on what you have already achieved, however all metal would be rid of rust. I know all too well about one step forward and three steps back as I have made a few costly mistakes along the way on my build, er, um Z build education. I had my car immediately epoxy primered by Bob the blaster using Endura epoxy primer. The car was on his car port in Jamul with body repair started for roughly 4 months with only a blue tarp and bungee cords holding it on. I then moved the car to my body/paint guys garage in El Cajon for a long while then had to move it to a rental garage in Chula Vista close to the San Diego harbor/ocean where it has been for at least 2 years. I have not had any re-rust issues I am happy to say so far. I have had alot of sand come out of the hidden cracks however as the car has been flat bed or moved on a car hauler from south SD to North county SD no less than 4 times n the highway. Hopefully most has shaken itself loose by now. 

    I had an older gentleman who has been blasting for most of his life do the work and still had minor signs of warping. My body guy was not that pleased with the work ahead of him to get all straightened. It would be a tough decision to make to dip then epoxy, undercoat seam seal, but without a doubt will have eliminated all internal rust without warping any panels in the process. 

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    Blasting vs. sanding (rust repair)

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted · Edited by Nelsonian

    If I had the chance to strip my car again and the circumstances were not what they were at the time, (immediate place needed to house the car after as well as find a body/paint guy), I would have brought my car to a dipper in LA or checked out these guys in Oregon. 

    http://www.metaldipping.com/faq.php  

    Read the Common Questions section and see how many myths that are spread by people.

    Strip the Car...or Build Upon Existing Chassis?

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I chose the complete strip down and build up approach for my project and am glad that I did. I discovered how shotty the previous owners repair work was and found unexpected rusty panels in most all the known areas after the old under coating, BONDO etc was removed. I am a bit of an obsessive type and have approached this car with the plan to build it to my liking/standards/approval and never sell it. I wish I could have hauled it up to Los Angeles and had it dipped then epoxy primered, but going the route I went (professional sand blasting) allowed me to meet my current body/paint guy as well as start the body work on the blasters  property. There was some signs of minor panel warpage on a few areas where as the dipping process would not have been an issue. All in all for my first old car as well as doing what I can so far to rebuilding it, I am happy that I went this method and exposed all problem areas and gave me a new canvas to strengthen for my intended 500ish whp goals. 

    I will add that I rode in a friends L28et 280Z that at the time was only making mid 200ish hp and ended up cracking the new paint in the C pillars where the lead lines are. I had mine removed and welded solid as a result. I still plan on more stitch welding in the rear area as well as finishing the firewall to complete the front. I think you are forming the right plan to combat that amount of torque and power that you have planned. Just a few pics showing the passenger side requiring a new cut piece to properly line up as well as how thick the bondo was in some places.

    The first page of my build shows what I discovered under a pretty, new, blue paint job and the very beginning of the snowball rolling down the hill of no return.

     

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    Ford 8.8 IRS swap v2.0

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    You are living an exciting, busy life indeed. Thanks for the update and hope the new measurements work out. I am/will be your biggest fan and supporter of getting this to a point where many of us can purchase one of your kits. Looking forward to more updates in the near future. 

    Sound Deadening Material For Floor

    in Interior

    Posted

    I did the whole bottom side of the car on the outside, and the whole inside of the car. It quieted it up a lot too. Make sure you apply them in the correct order. I used fatmat on my last car, some peel and stick crap. That was a huge PITA to install, you can't put it on the outside, and it's hard to cover weird shapes without overlapping, plus if like the factory stuff, if it gets an air bubble in it and moisture gets in, it will never come out and rust the car from under the mat.

    I'm glad to hear of your positive first hand experiences with the lizard skin products as I have both sound deaden-er and heat suppression waiting to be applied when that time comes in the build. 

    Reconsidering my L28ET build

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by Nelsonian

    Shanks, if you stick with the L28et route I would highly recommend adding a quality harmonic damper such as from BHJ to your list as there is no mention of one. It will add to your cost factor, but preventative parts as such are invaluable in the end. With that being said regardless of which engine path you take to achieve your power goals, I would strongly heed the words of advice from those with said engines that know of each one of their failure points and plan to build whatever engine with aftermarket parts that eliminate the weak points.

     

    If were talking 2JZ here, it is no secret they are very stout from the factory, but have weak points as well. Virtually every performance parts house offers preventative upgrades such as ported oil pumps, modified/welded timing gears,  harmonic dampers to name a few.

    It all comes down to which school of thought you subscribe to. (1)  Either simply buying a low mileage JZ and installing and disregarding mentioned weak points  (for a few $ sake I suppose??) and rolling the dice. (2) The other method would have you taking advantage of having the engine out and ready for all parts mentioned plus new gaskets, timing belt, oil/water pumps, ARP main/head studs rod bolts etc...

     

    It certainly can become a deeeeep financial wabbit hole quickly, but it sounds like you want an engine you can beat on and have piece of mind that it is going to take it and not crap out at the absolute worst possible time.

     

    I am all to familiar with this second route as I am only a few components away from completely building my 2JZ with forged innards and my power goals are in the 500 + wheel range set up with E85 with future room to grow if ever deemed necessary. I am still mulling over Titan Motorsports billet main caps (requiring a line bore) and Supertech shimless buckets. Some would say over kill, but  I personally want to pound on my engine and have rev capability while autocrossing and most importantly have the engine built to live with this harmoniously and not stressing to do so. I want to build it once with out taking short cuts and be done with piece of mind. I have already gone down the multiple bolt on performance parts route with a 4G63 engine to only have the crank walk at the most inopportune time while I was a full time student and a part time job trying to make ends meet. Lessons learned from that for any future performance goals from then on were to build it or even over build it for longevity, piece of mind and lastly enjoyment. 

     I would also strongly suggest fortifying your car as best as you can in preparation for that power and torque. 

     

    As far as that video linked above goes, I can't stand his incessant jump cut choices that he used for his final video edit. I am watching his videos to see what he destroys on his car next though.

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