Montoya

All I can say is our racecar used to run Turbonetics...nothing but problems. The team used to have rebuild the turbos after every 3 pulls. Now we run Garret, The team has yet to rebuild them midway through the season. We also had a major power increase because of the efficiency gain using the same size turbos. When it comes to turbos, you get what you pay for. Check out our drag civic at http://www.aempower.com It's a full tube frame pro RWD car running a acura NSX V6 making over 1800 HP on methanol. 6.52@115MPH Not bad!

We run Garret GT series turbos on our pro RWD drag car and I must say they have been the most reliable turbos we have ever used. The Ball Bearing turbos are fully rebuildable for not a lot more money and they spool much faster then a standard bushing style. Garret will be releasing a GT35R with an internal wastegate very soon (if they haven't yet). I would recomend this turbo as it is capable of 500 HP, spools very quickly on a 2.5L, will have the wastegate sized perfectly, and is one of the highest quality turbos on the market. Just my $.02

I was thinking the same thing. I will go check them out next week and report back here as to what I think about them. Also, I know my car is a 71 and CF might not look to the time period however I bet if people in 1971 had access to CF for their cars they would have had it on their cars. Besides, my RB motor is not exactly period correct either....modernization is underrated.

Are the MSA fiberglass ones crap or are they fairly good quality? The only reason I want carbon fiber is because it will go with the look I am going for, however those are pretty pricey. If I can get away with wrapping the fiberglass, then that is the way to go.

Has anyone had any experience with the Carbon fiber ZG flares that MSA is selling? http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-1563&Category_Code=7BSA02 I am not farmilliar with the installation of ZG flares, do you need to cut the fenders or just rivet them on? Thanks in advance for any information.

Well I am finally going to break down and put some new floors in the old rust bucket (east coast car). I have the floor boards already, I just need to have the ones in my Z replaced. I would do it but I only have a tig welder and that would take forever, not to mention it would be a real pain in the back. I live in the Los Angeles area and was wondering if anyone knows of a good shop around here to have the new floor boards installed? Thanks for your help. Jon

RB26240Z, I see you live in LA. Where did you have those new floors put in your car? I have been trying to find someone to fix the cancer I have. Thanks

Thank you

I was wondering if anyone has these photos still. I don't think the link is working. Thanks

I can try to post a picture for you (although I am a little embarrassed by the welds on it at the moment). I have the throttle body out of a 94 Q45. It has a 80mm throttle plate and a 90mm opening. The TB will bolt directly on to the manifold without any modification however, the throttle cable will need to be mounted somehow. I plan on making a steel bracket (obviously strongly supported) to hold the cable. This will probably bolt where the engine hoist loop currently is on the RB25.

I currently have the Greddy intake on my RB25 and it is a very high quality part however, the fitment of it in the 240Z is tight. I had to machine about an inch off the end of my Q45 throttle body and weld a 3.5" OD bent tube onto the end of the throttle body in order to clear the inner fender. Welding on the throttle body was difficult because the material has a lot of zink in it causing it to pit and pop. If you weld onto it, be patient. I would weld onto it then grind it down, then do it all over again. It took about 4 times before the welds looked good.

We should keep this post at the top for all eternity! Or at least a few more weeks.

http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2motorsports/rb25det.html These guys have some parts for both the RB25 and the RB26. Also try http://www.nismo.com They have a large selection of engine parts (not just Nismo).

Are you guys going to be having any specials at the West Coast Nationals? If so I might have to bring the check book.

Any luck with the front mount? I am also interested in this as I am just about fabbed out for a while. I feel like all I have been doing is fabing parts from scratch and I am not that good at it so it takes me two or three tries to get it the way I want it.

Is that the Exedy Clutch? If it is the part number NM032SD clutch then I will buy it from you. I need a new clutch for mine as the ACT can't hold up. Drop me an e-mail @ jgleason@aempower.com Thanks Jon

AEM will soon be releasing a plug and play full stand alone unit for the RB motors. This will plug directly into the stock wiring harness. You can check out more info about it at http://www.aempower.com It is what I am using on my RB25 however it is not for the faint, you have to know what you are doing to run this software because it is very in depth. It has the ability to control every aspect of your engine including variable valve timing, traction control, boost compensation, cold start up, etc. If you can not tune your car yourself, AEM has people that have been trained to use the software all over the country and in Canada. What is nice about the plug and play is that it comes with a base map and start-up calibration, this way, get your car to a dyno, plug the ems in, set up your parrameters (injectors, fuel pressure, etc.), put the car on the dyno, start it up and start tuning it. It may take about an hour to get the car tuned on the dyno and then you have to tweak every aspect to get the car the way you want it. I enjoy it, and what else is cool is that you can data log everything to see what is happening when you are going down the track. Get back to the trailer and see what your engine was doing. Check it out if you are serious about an engine management system.

The R33 RWD tranny can take over 700 ft-lbs of torque relaibly, I have seen many skyline's and swapped 240SX's with this much power and stock transmission. As for hard drag launching, it will hold up but for how long I am not sure. I know it will last at least a few passes and can handle enough power to run a low 10 @ 145 mph. I wish I could say it was my car but it was a 350Z drift car with a RB26 and RB25 RWD tranny (heavier then a 240Z). They were doing a magazine article about this car and launched it pretty hard for a few passes.

I am currently going through the same swap as aguyandaredhead. Maybe it's the red heads fault (I have a redheaded girlfriend as well), but it is not an easy swap. I got the engine mounts from Brad before he was done selling them and they put the motor in the perfect spot. Fortunately for me I work in the aftermarket parts industry (Advanced Engine Management) and thus I get hooked up on both parts and tuning, still it is very expensive. I got the motor, trans, harness, turbo, and all accesories from a friend for $1,500. I plan on keeping the internals stock for now however I will be running a garrett GT35 turbo (sponsor our NHRA Drag Car so I got it for free), custom exhaust manifold (AEM bought DC sports earlier this year), greddy intake manifold (~ $550), Greddy intercooler (~$1,200), Stand alone EMS (AEM), Custom wiring harness (~$500), CDI system (AEM), Head ported and pollished and flowed (R&D dyno service ~$400), and those are just the big things. Not to mention you will need a custom driveshaft (~$400). Basically, if I didn't have the hookups I have, this would be approximately $10K. Aguyandaredhead, how did you make your trans mount and do you have any pics? I am still collecting parts and I will be installing everything after christmas. My motor and tranny are in but the trans mount is not completed yet. I encourage anyone to do this swap if you are looking for a fast, reliable, easily modifiable swap. I discourage any people who are attached to their money from doing this swap. My redheaded girlfriend seconds that...it makes for smaller christmas presents.

The RB motor can handle a lot more HP with stock internals (~600HP)however it is going to cost a lot more for the motor/tranny plus finding parts in the US can be difficult (although it is getting much better with the drifting scene catching on). You need to ask yourself what you want to do with your car. If all you want is a nice reliable 300hp car then go with the L28 but if you want more HP and are willing to pay for it, go with the RB. Just my $0.02

I am using the AEM EMS. I am also running the CDI and wide band uego. I am an engineer for them so I get a good discount (free). If anyone is interested in running this system, I can send you the base maps for the RB25 as soon as I get the car on the dyno, (hould be in about 2 months). I am using all the stock sensors and wiring harness, I just had to set-up the pinouts on the EMS.