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rustrocket

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Posts posted by rustrocket

  1. IT's been waaaaay too long since an update. UNfortunately not much has happened since my last update. Changed the trans mount so it unbolts from the bottom now, not the top, for easy removal. Floors/firewall are almost finished (at my friends shop).

     

    Should be back to me in a couple weeks, then all i have left is:

     

    shorten axles

    make driveshaft

    coat chassis

    install cam/valve springs

    wiring

    make fenders/dash.

     

    Thoughts?

     

    aP1070784.jpg

    aP1070788.jpg

    aP1070791.jpg

    aP1070798.jpg

  2. I'll be honest, i've only brake checked somebody once and once only. I was in the bay area, on 280 north, passing where 87 merges onto 280. As i pass this dude, i accidently cut him off as he's trying to merge. He gets right up on me, turns his highbeams on (he's in a suburban). So i brake check him. I dont know why i did it because i'd never done it before.

    The guy swerves, pulls up next to me...I didnt bother looking because i just thought he was going to yell or give me the finger. Next thing i know, i hear a loud BOOM and see a bright flash next to me. I look over, and the guy is pointing a gun at me...He'd shot at me, through his own passenger window. Talk about needing a change of underwear. I pulled over immediately to make sure my girlfriend was ok. Luckily, he missed my car completely. I was so frantic in pulling over that i forgot to get the guy's license plate number.

     

    So, there you have it. I dont brake check. Getting shot at really puts road rage in perspective.

  3. Maybe i'm just ignorant, but i dont think it's very cost effective to build a 500hp CA18 and especially have it streetable. If you're willing to settle for that sort of horsepower, why not just pickup a cheap Lq9 and do some mild mannered mods to get it there?

     

    If not, you can still pickup a Lq9 super cheap and turbo that.

     

    edit: based on costs of what Nizmozed said...tripling it is a good idea. I started out my tube chassis triumph wagon thinking it would only cost me $12-15k. I'm sitting right around $25k into it right now, and it's not even close to being done.

  4. (not a z)

    So i'm at the point in my ls2 triumph project where the stock fenders need to be modified for the wheels (the original wheels were 13x4.5, and the current ones are 17x9.5 in the rear with 275 tires, and the fronts are 17x8.5 with 255 tires.). I'm trying to have it done as economically as possible while still looking good. Its at a shop right now, and the guy has very reasonable rates, but i wanted to get something solid in mind before i told him what to do with it.

     

    I originally just thought about getting the wide zg flares that a member on here sells, but i dont know if they extend far enough down the fender...then i thought i could just cut them into sections, and fill them in.

     

    And then i thought "well, maybe the car wouldn't look too bad if i just cut the fenders for wheel clearance, and left it as is."

     

    What do you guys think? Have any other ideas?

     

    Heres how it looks now, the front fender isn't on...

    P1060696.jpg

     

    P1060691.jpg

     

    and some other pics for reference

     

    n1369024989_652607_8491.jpg

     

    n1369024989_652627_3946.jpg

  5. Thanks guys. I agree on the headers, although they do have good penetration. I'll clean them up before having them ceramic coated.

     

    There's still so much in the air about the flares, both front and rear. one of the suggestions i like is welding the back half of the back door shut, moving the b pillar back, and making one big door out of the remaining half of the back door molded to the front door. Make sense? Thoughts?

  6. I find all of this very interesting. Being 24 myself, i would agree and disagree about the appropriateness of profiling. I've had over 30 cars, ranging from datsuns, toyotas, to triumph spitfires, a modded porsche 928, a corvette stingray, and a couple of SUV's. Half of those cars, i drove like i stole them.

     

    The ONLY car (of my own) i've ever gotten ticketed in was a BONE STOCK 1992 Toyota Tercel. I got pulled over for speeding, taking a corner too fast (at the speed limit in a residential area), and for going straight out of a left turn lane in a college parking lot.

     

    I have to agree with other members that it's hard when you're on the other side of the badge, and the guy with the badge is a total ass. I got pulled over while driving my friend's 240sx a few years ago. The car was bone stock with the exception of the muffler, which the cop said caught his attention. I gave him my license and insurance, and he came back to the window, told me to get out of the car because he was concerned about my "meth usage". Long story short, i was arrested for use of controlled substances (which i've never used), my friend was arrested for the same, and then later charged at the police station for statutory rape (his girlfriend who was 17 was in the car at the time, and they took her to the station too).

     

    So, does profiling have it's merits? Maybe...but to what end?

     

    I'm sure my attitude will change when my tube chassis triumph sees the street.

     

    But overall, there's a difference between driving fast and driving STUPID. Many younger drivers have tendencies to do the latter, but there are always exceptions.

  7. I figured this belonged in misc tech because it didnt specifically fall into another category.

     

    My Triumph street machine is getting closer and closer to being finished...As it stands right now, i have a lot of bare metal that needs to be covered in something durable so it doesn't rust...I'm trying to be cost effective where possible.

     

    IMG_3553.jpg

    IMG_3543.jpg

    IMG_3534.jpg

     

    So, prettymuch the bare metal pieces are: lower a arms, chassis/roll cage, and i'm sure some other little bits.

     

    For the chassis/a-arms/roll cage, i've been looking at powdercoating, but this seems pretty costly and since the body of the car is attached to the chassis, i'm not sure how the sheetmetal would hold up in the oven. Paint? Autozone or kragen bedliner? Suggestions?

  8. I'm trying to wrap up this stage of my triumph wagon project, and I need some help with a cam/valve spring swap since i've never done one before. I'm not looking for somebody to do it for me, but to walk me through it. I know there's plenty of instructional pages online, but i'm a much better hands on learner.

     

    I have all the gaskets, bolts, cam, springs, retainers, and everything else needed to do the swap except the experience.

     

    Would somebody be willing to donate some of their time to help me out? I'm in the menlo park area...

     

    Also, if anybody knows a place that does ceramic coating and doesn't charge an arm and a leg, that would be helpful as well.

     

    Thanks!

     

    -Cameron

    clarkcameronm@yahoo.com

  9. Hey guys. Unfortunately, i can't take credit for the actual fab work, just some of the design and all of the cost.

     

    As far as the coilovers go, the rears are from an s14, and i think will probably be a little stiff, as i think they're about 250 lbs/in. The fronts are 225. I dont think we had a formula, although i know he ran it on suspension program 3d.

     

    Sorry i couldnt be more help.

  10. are you retarded? honestly? a ka24 in a z32. and ka24's are not turbo,unless you turbo'd yours. sr20's were and are a much better motor. still a 2.4 4cyl in a 4000lb car = going nowhere not even daily drivable, just vg30dett the damn thing and be done.

     

    Actually, i think the car is closer to 3400-3500 pounds...but you're right, putting a 2.4 into a 3,500 pound car is just stupid. Thank god toyota never put 4 bangers into their trucks, nissan didnt put 4 cylinder engines into mass produced cars, and volkswagen didnt stuff small 4 bangers into countless jettas and beetles.

     

    Do the Ka24de, it's highly underrated.

  11. The other day, i was driving my 710 wagon at 75 mph when all of a sudden, it sounded like somebody threw a bag of popcorn in the engine. At which point, it lost power and died.

     

    I had it towed home and waited til the next day to deal with it. It turns over and starts, but it won't idle. I've checked all the nfuel and ignition systems and everything appears fine...So given everything else, i'm pretty sure it's a vacuum leak. It'll cough and sputter for a few seconds and then die. I can hear a light hissing sound somewhere. Any idea what specifically could be causing the following:

     

    *rough idle/wont idle

    *backfiring while driving

    *poor fuel economy

    *poor power delivery.

  12. Or anybody who's done an engine swap and really doesnt drive it on the street much...

     

    Does your car have a heater? If so, aftermarket or oem?

     

    I'm looking at options for my tube chassis triumph wagon, and ditched the original heater when i gutted the car.

     

    I've been looking at aftermarket heaters, or seat warmers (one or the other).

     

    What's everybody doing? Is cabin heat even an issue worth worrying about?

  13. When i was trying to get my 79 corolla home, the guy who had the car before me had the battery cables colored wrong, and when i tried to jump it, i blew the fusible link. Of course, i went to my local kragens and couldnt find anything!

     

    As i was driving around in my friend's car, i saw an audio store...I went in there and got an inline fuse for a stereo system, and then put it in place of the fusible link. And on the bright side, those stereo fuses are like $1 and take 5 seconds to replace!

     

    # 2

     

    Maybe not MacGyver, but still funny.

     

    When i was little, my parents would pay me a depressing sum to scrub the linoleum floor in the kitchen, probably about 15x25 surface. However the dirt was very stubborn and each square foot too me about 10 minutes. I got tired of busting my butt for not a whole lot of dough...So, i drilled a hole in the top of my giant scrubber brush, put a bolt through from the bottom and tightened it from the top with a nut, and then attached it to a drill! Not bad for 9 or 10 years old.

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