Psykovertible

yah it would be nice to just hook the hose up instead of messing around with it. hole in firewall easy to drill.

Don't forget that if you do want an all fiberglass hood for that car, you can get one made at Reaction Research here in town. East vally but still the valley. I personally don't like the shape of the cowl that much on his cause it's really small but it was a good price and functional. Jake

yah not a big fan of the spoiler but the car looks great. I am still looking forward to a ride. One of these days when I get off my but I will go to get that alternator. I was having second thoughts about which one to buy. I considered getting a later one to go with a serpentine belt drive but may be more hassle that worth. great job with the car. I didnt get a good look at the valve covers but I have a set of gold aluminum Moroso ones that may top it off nice. i really like the look of the wheels on that color car too

sweet. it sounds like a low risk trial then. I guess I was just freeked a little about the potential flushing of funds. Just got my roller rockers finally today BTW. Just got some money from a side job too. I guess I'll be gripping onto it till we see how those headers work out. I was thinking all day about where to spend it and just realized that it may be time to buy headers. Excited all over again now bout the headers.

well i think they are worth trying. It may be prudent to wait for Mikelly's response to my question though. I gave him some direction on what/how we were comparing so that he could measure the S&S ones in the same manner that the specs on the patriots were taken. Hypothetically, if we get some patriot ones and dont screw up with mock up can they be returned if they dont fit and what would it cost in shipping or restock fees? I am still interested highly in a cost effective alternative. If they measure out to be very close then i would go patriot to save the money. S&S did say that the tubes are 16 gauge so they are the same thickness tubing.

bump for my own selfish needs. anyone know about this.

you will get mostly the gas form of freon when you do that. teh gas escaping should be really cold to the point that it is bad for your skin and can frost bite it with too much exposure. if you blow enough out, you will likely get some oil to come out to. the little bulb thing is likely the dampener that helps reduce the pulses in the a/c system to make it quieter and smoother. i would find out what you will be charge to refill teh freon cause R12 is very high dollar. IF YOU BLOW IT ALL OUT CONVERT IT TO FREEZE 12. good stuff. it's like $8 per pound and works well in my BMW and my wife chevy p/u.

sound clip to be posted?? would like to hear these bad boys.

well the sanderson ones look to be 1.5 inches higher at lowest point that patriot ones. I am wating for Mikelly to send me some measurements of the S&S headers for compro. I just wanna compare all to the S&S cause if they are really close to S&S than they may all be a waste of time. I am also still trying to get ahold of my fabricator to ask what it would cost to cut and paste a little on some headers..... or just make a set for me.

you know i just noticed on those turbo ones..... there should be a left and a right and it looks like there are two of one side. the tubes should angle away from each like a mirror image (or together) bu not run the same way like they do. that would suck to find out later. one turbo sticking through the hood and the other 6 inches below

i've heard that their quality is lacking bu those are bas *** looking. there was a tread on this turbo thing very recently that would love to see those

may be a slightly better option yet Sanderson header: they can be had in 1 5/8, 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 primary Dimensions: 3.75" out, 16" down, 23" front to back (front of header flange to end of collecor) Partriot header: 1 5/8" primary only Dimensions: 3.5" out, 17.5" down, 23.25" front to back (front of header flange to end of collecor) keep in mind that the header flange front front to back is about 18.5" by measuring my heads. plus there is a little more to go before passing the end of the block. so 19-20" gets you from the front of the header flange to teh rear of the block. so the headers will stick about 3"past the block. I am still trying to get these specs on the S&S headers to compare. ok. well i gave up on trying to find the info on the net and called S&S. He was nice and somewhat helpfull. He told me that from the header flange bolts to the bottom of the primary tubes it would be 16 inches. Add probably .75" to the top of the flange for good meaure and you have 16.5 - 16.75 top to bottom. He couldnt tell me the total for how far the primary stick out from the block as they make the first bend to go down. he also told me that the primary tubes stop at the back of the block. then the collector is a total of 6" further toward rear. So it sound like the S&S ones are about 3" longer which may be why they are hitting the floor pan. I asked about shortening the tubes to get the collector away from the floor pan and he agreed that he could do that but it would raise the RPM range from about a 6500 RPM redline to 7000-7500 area. he advised that it would be better to shorten the collector instead which could give me up to 3" shorter measurement to the rear. I am thinking that I still want to shorten the tubes because my motor is built for 1500-6500 RPM. If I shorten the tubes it would mean that my motor will run out of RPM before my headers. GRUMPYVETTE ARE YOU WATCHING?? I would love some input on this. He seemed to not agree that there would a ground clearance issue for two reasons. sometime in the last year they took out the 5 degree kick up so the tubes now follow the same angle as the motor as apposed to kicking up to accomodate a down angled motor like before. Also, he said that the primary tubes hand down .75 inches less than before where the tubes make the 90 to head back to the collector. In my application I dont think headers are going to crap jack-crap differnce in what I get from the car. Block huggers are fine. But I am shooting for a fit-and-finsh look to take to shows for bling. Sorry for long winded posts

more info on other header choices on previously mentioned thread

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strange.... looks like he use a corvette diff and mustache bar but used the stock 240 stuff for the rest. kind of a cool idea actually. bet that saved a lot of fab work adn gained the better diff only. much more viable option for some. the narrowed vette rear complete would be hella-good but this has got to bee way better than stock.

I am waiting for a return phone call about modifying those h8039 ones. What I proposed is that they shortent the section of header that runs toward the rear of car that the collector flange is on. I suggested that they be shortened to the point where the headers take a turn back upward. i dont know if that makes sense so i will reword. flange....tubes go down.... 90 degree bend toward rear.....then small bend up (which is good on most cars cause it levels the pipes in relation to ground)..... then a small strech of pipe... then collector. i wanna shorten to the point where it makes the small bend up and put collector there.

oh yeah... if I remember correctly, you use the stock datsun crossmember with those mounts and adapt the mount with a chevy mount and spacer plate

do you already have a v8 z or is this your starting point. If you have one done already I'm sure that many of us would be gratefull if you test fit those hooker headers on JTR or MSA mounts...... MSA specifically for me. I may be interested in buying them from you to modify if you decide against them.

I would be game for a group visit. I live in the west valley in El Mirage and could tag along on most Mondays-Thursdays. May help to bring some pics as ammo for the complaint.

big time. $450 is a lot regardless of fit. I dont know if its worth the extra money to me or not. Lately I have been leaning toward spending a little extra to just get it right the first time. However, I have my doubts about Hooker longtube headers with my MSA mounts. they move the motor back 2.75 inches from scarab and are only about a half inch higher than JTR.

i like the look of the tight tube style casue the collector isnt so long that as to cause issue with firewall. the nicer looking ones at beginning of this thread look great but look too long in the collector.

cool idea. anyone else wanna put in their 2 cents. I am open for ideas. been searching but nothing that lights me up.

I too wondered about this as I plan to use a T5 or Tremec variety. The shims looks a little bit "shade tree" to me. I have never used on so I guess I just dont know. Is there, has anyone seen one, or would someone like to try one..... a Ford Ranger uses a self contained cannon style TB. I beleive it was fully self contained and was very easy to install/replace/bleed. If memory serves.... it bolted onto the front of a T5 in my 88 Ranger 6cly. I will be surfing for answers on this. Hopefully a usefull comment and not a waste of type strokes.

I bet I'm p!issing into the wind with my concern over the issue. I need one of the brainier (is that a word) folks around here to chime in on whether is makes a difference. And i think i will definitely do the crossmember spacers. My suspension is fully ajustable height-wise so i can do the spaces and lower it a little. since i have the JTR book I'll probably make them outta some nice aluminum.

I like the fartcans. Totally disguises the swap and the fact that it'll whoop the sh!t outta those Honda Type T (type Turd) cars.