Psykovertible

I dont know but it sure looks to me like it would be a pain in the @$$ to get plugs in and out. Aside from that, they actually look like they may fit great because they dont seem to stick out fromt he head very far

If you ened up coming to Phx AZ I would suggest my father in law as a drag race driver. Not that I think he is better than anyone else on this site neccessarilly.... but he has been drag racing that old school hot rod way for years. THis is one of those guys that street raced for the money to buy mods. I've been to the track with him and he cuts onme hell of a raction time. Also, he is a great mechanic and does all his own fabrication. Also, he is not a pro at Datsuns but he is vaugely familiar with the concept of two popular type setups. Just figured I'd mention it as an option.

ps.. the reverse flow does not matter according ot my local machine shop. the reverse flow was designed to put the freshly cooled water to the heads first instead of the block first. this is so the the heads can be cooler to acomodate the high compression of the lt1 (10.5 :1).

I dont know but the bolt hoes are very different. I went to my local parts store and they pulled an intake gasket for an older 350 and and lt1 350. they are not even close. In addition, there is not provision for a distributor. I finally saw an intake that allows the use of lt1 heads on older block with a rear dirstibutor. I was thinking of this option due to tight budget and looking for "bang for the buck" type solutions. If you want lt1 injection buy a whole lt1. the benifits are great and may be cheaper by the time you get all parts.....intake, throttle body, fuel rails, ecm, injectors, regulator..... all of which work great stock.

Just shoot me an email at jlichlyter@cox.net or you can call me at 602-206-6701. Jake

If you want some help I would love to come hang out and lend a hand. I work nights Thursday through Sunday so basically I am off work from Monday moring till Thursday night. You should check out the Sanderson block hugger that JTR sells. A little pricey but look great. I was very impressed by their shape compared to the cheaper hugger like I had originally. Jake

So this the first version right? Why are you selling?

how much?

I have a car that I have been considering a swap in. Its an 87 325 with the 2.7 L6 and fivespeed. I love the body style but its a little old for most. I want to put the ground effects all the way around and get rid of the steel bumpers by using the one fiberglass ones like the 318. I figure its on the same level as a datsun swap cause I'm 2600 in a nice little car. When it finally blows up (lick a rock for 4 yrs)..... I'll put a v8 in. I dont know about an LS1 though. those are still a little complicated for my backwoods shadtree mechanical skills. as a side note....... comes with pretty good braking and a stout straight axle from factory.

I would like more info on the spacers required by your setup. It seems simple and straight forward. I cannot afford to screw around too much cause other parts of the car are going to drain the heck out of me. I got the initial idea.... FRONT 1) 4 lug 300ZX vented rotors 2) S-12W Toyota calipers from trucks 3) spacers ?? 4) custom lines ?? REAR 1) early 280ZX caliper 2) late 280ZX rotor 3) custom bracket what else cause i'm ready to buy the parts. I can buy almost everything from BAP here in Phx AZ and probably get a one time buddy hook up price.

Could load her for some reason. Didnt fight it. check here. http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2130989927

I went ahead and ordered the MSA barcket kit. Total price to my door was $238. It comes with motor mounts, trans mount and all three adapter brackets. Without geting into a debate about whether or not I should actually use these..... I was hoping that I could get some info from those who have. I tried to search and had little luck. I know that there are at least a handfull of people on this forum with the newer MSA mounts like I just bought. These are not the scarab type posisiton. they set the motor nearly as far to the rear as JTR but not as low. Those of you who have used them..... any helpful tidbits/pearls that you would care to pass along? I know that for the most part.... prep is the same as JTR and I have started that prep per the JTR manual. For further.... I have decided to sell my Muncie 4spd and get the G-Force T5 5 spd. Its a little pricy but sounds strong enough to suit without the additional headaches of the T56. As a long shot..... does anyone know where I could pickup a Scarab bell housing so I can keep hydrualics as a bolt in issue?

However, the small journal 327 rods bolt are scary as hell to me. They are only a 5/16 instead of a 3/8. Not a big difference but enough. Besides, to use the small journal crank you need the small journal block... which is more rare and antiquated by comparison to later blocks. You also run into minor stuff. old 327- filler is in intake... breather is in intake.... rods bolt are small and weaker.... block is weaker. buy the large journal 327. The additional RPM range of a 302 doesnt help much unless you are road track only. just my two cents

I guess I should wake up before typing next time.

as a side note.... my 02 Road Star with 11K miles is for sale fro $8k. it is stock except for vance adn hies pipes, driving lights, sissy bar, and solo seat luggage rack. very nice adn very new. metallic marroon with champaingn two tone. anone in market or who knows of person in marley welcome to call me at 602-206-6701 jake

I have been trying off and on to buy a 240Z from my best friend for years. 9 years actaully. He finally got to the point where he realized he would never build it (sat all this time untouched) and sold it to me for a smoking deal. Its a convertible with a tilt front end and a pretty cool little roll cage. I doubt it would pass tech but it complements the car well. I'll get some pics soon as I have to wait to get them back from photo place. We have no idea where the parts came from that were used to do body work but likely they are reaction research parts with mods to suit. I am totally pumped. As soon as my Yamaha RoadStar is sold I will dig in.

guess i did post in wrong area. didnt even think about it as i only read from chevy v8 section unless doing a search. sounds like crap but i will look into the retrofit. ill swap in my dana 44 with an airlocker before i spende 600 bucks on a lsd. swap will not cost much more than that and i have always dreemed of pulling a wheelie.

anyone seens this type of lsd? it is crap or an affordable limited slip gittyup? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=7950494982&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

i would really love a picture of the supercharged car. I am curious how it fits hood wise and how it looks in the engine bay of a z. i would think it sits much above hood line so a big scoop would be neccessary...

I too would really like to see the pics from before. Almost feel cheated. I would sacrifice much to acomplish a setup like that but my wallet says single turbo at best. If you have a cd burner I would send you a prepaid padded envelope and disk. Hope I'm not throwing you under the bus here.

i would like to see several pictures of the rear end gittyup while the deck and floor is out of the car still. the brackets must be pretty straight forward. more info on the years that work best for parts would be schweet as well.

are those of you with the fitment issues using the MSA headers using the MSA kit or JTR for motor mounting?

Second try in hopes that someone may help. I would like it if any helpfull soul could provide a good picture fo an MSA mount kit or provide a diagram / blueprint / drawing /etc. like the JTR book provides. I want a full length header and it sounds like MSA is best for ease of fit with full headers. please help.

you never know. For less than $100 how can U miss. I know I could part is out and make money even if its a rust bucket peice of crap. Wish I had a place to park it. I'd make the drive.

I agree that overall the JTR looks to be better for balance and position. However, I want to use my Muncie M20 and bad @ss hurst supershifter. People have had plenty of trouble with these tranny's using either kit. To aggrevate teh situation it should be noted that my shift rods take up even more space because thaey are 3 inches longer for setback plate of shifter and are straight rods with heim rod ends. I have been trying to figure out which one will accomodate the rods best in the tunnel. The funny part is that I want to make which ever kit I settle on my self and then use that for fitment only. The engineers did a fine job in where the motor should be. After that I intend to make custom mounts. The reason for my method/madness is that I am handy but no engineer and was concerned with the angle of the dangle for the all the driveline parts. THis can be as simple or complicated as anyone wants to make it. In reality......i will kick this around long enough that I will probably buy whatever kit works best for my parts. (worst case scenario) I really want to use my Muncie without needing to fab a new tunnel. However, it could be argued that making a slighlty different tunnel is easier than anything else (sheet metal and a welder). I have done many searches which have basically told me that with any premade kit you have to beat the hell out of the tunnel.