Psykovertible

me likey. i love everything about it except the number of cylinders. would have creamed in my shorts if it had a little 289 or some other small cube sbf. that being said.... wicked looking setup with the manifolds

well i kinda like it. nose reselmbles a 69. but the tail looks too much like the charger for me. i would still take one. i love the original muscle cars but a retro is bad @$$ cause you get cool styling and cozy ride

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-Twin-Turbo-headers-Chevy-283-400_W0QQitemZ8028516634QQcategoryZ33631QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

my dad's is legal and his is shaped just like that. the "d" bars go from the corner of the crossbar behind the seats to frame rails for the tie-in.

that's a nice looking intake too. looks more like super victor to me than a victor jr?

wheelman, i gave this some thought as i was skimming the thread and know exactly what i would call your z as it sits currently. You basically decribed it as rough and tacky but drivable. I, being the type to mock myself, would name it TACK. Short for tacky. Its short and easy to say, and you may be able to think of something more suitable that can built on TACK when it is more presentable.... like stack or tacked or stacked or something. just my bit. and no offense intended on the minor bash by my suggested name. mine still is a shell.

that would be the best part... taking advantage of people's ignorance. you cant expect people to know the in's and out's of datsuns unless they are enthusists. even so, most people dont know a motor from a trans and dont care. that being said... i love the idea. it's like when people tell me they have a jeep wrangler withy a V6 and they are all proud of it (the straight 6)

Anyone using a Professional Products intake manifold or other parts. I am waiting on my intake to come in and its a copy of the "air gap" mainfolds. Didnt think to get feedback prior to order. looks to be of good quality but not sure. I have one of their harmonic balancers too. they seem to make a nice part

it'll cost me about 200 most likely for the pipe from header to muffler(including H pipe). not sure what mufflers i'll use but my guy here in Glendale AZ is pretty good and pretty cheap

sweet avatar

jeg's sells wraps made of kevlar or something like it in the form of spark plug boot protectors that are pretty nice. if you still have issues after the cam you can try the joe pyro method and carefully spray brake-clean around the intake to see if it changes idle at all. at least you boosted the cam in the end so that will make you happy.

me, father,father in law and brother and law are avid 400SBC folks. parts are readilly avialable. not quite as market-flooded as the 350 parts though. BTW... that BS flag is so cool that its the only reason i pitched in. I just wanted to try it out but cant figure it out. where do you find that stuff (here you go, Mike kZ )

i would be wondering what volume of fuel is flowing as well. the pressure is most imnportant obviously because as long as the pressure isnt too high it should not be overpowering the float seat. have heard of too much flow even at correct pressure. remember that it is something i was told so it could be as valid as the tooth fairy.

well to put my 2 cents in... if you build a 327, 350 and 400 with all the same specs meaning compression and parts type/grade, they should all make very similar HP but more cubes means more torque. I love 400's cause I like big cubes. They may be overkill in a Z due to traction issues, but isnt that why you wanna V8Zcar to begin with? GO for the gusto but if that particular motor is not buildable then it is a waste of money. If you want bang fot the buck buy a GM Crate motor to get a a good 4 bolt main SBC with a warranty.

not just no but f-no on the bucket of gas. safe or not I'm not gonna play the role of Beaker for nobody

well one of the things i was told in the beging when trying to learn about this stuff was that dry air in an intake can reach higher velocity. in addition, the turbulance needed to maintain the atomization and fuel suspension is unneccessary for port injection. technically (according to at least on dude i spoke with) you could mirror polish the inside of a port-jection intake to obtain smoothest flow and highest velocity of the "dry" air charge since the fuel does not need to be suspended througout the plenum and the runners. never thought about the the fuel vapor vs liquid form. hell-of-an oversight on my part that now makes me think...... what an a**.... cant believe that never occurred to me. how many beer drinking chats did the cigarette into the cool bucket of fuel have i had?

well the port injection would rock even more than a TBI simply because it's more efficient. however, he has the 144 blower that likely doesnt mate to a TPI intake. i've never had one i'm just guessing. Arizona Speed and Marine and Arizona TPI are two well known places here that do very nice work. I like the holley 950 TBI systems but would buy a stealth ram if i had the money.

i wanna see the shop. and i may want a set of shorty's to test fit. i planned on buying a set for the wife's truck and trying them in the car first but i am lazy. i would rather have someone else do all the work and have me there for moral support and beer supply. so in all seriousness..... does anyone know of any zcar with the shorty style header like above picture. they seem like they would flow much better than most huggers.

there is one in Jegs that is called "the wheel" that is touted. it is heavy so there is no much RPM drop between gears. heavy slows the rev-up but keeps revs for shifting by maintaining momentum. think i have that right....i'm sure i will be bashed shortly if not.

before anyone else jumps up your keister, did you do a search yet? there is a grip-load of info on this. I just had a thread about dana44 axles. and are you talking independent or full axle. I would say go with a mustang 8.8. hard to beat bang-for-buck if you get one with disks already. do a search for "jegster" ss bars. great type of bars that fit under the z cars. cross between a four-link and ladder bar. jake in AZ here is a great example. http://members.tripod.com/SnowSurfer/mikekz1.html

i was looking at my 87 BMW 325 hinges. when u pull the lever, front of hood pops about 2-3 inches and moves forward. when it moves forward, the rear two latch peices release so that it can be tilted up. looks fairly simple to mess with i think.

daaaaang. that's nice. even a color i love. your front clip and mine look very similar. the bumper and valance are very close match. i dont have flares though. did you add all that or did it come prettymuch like in pic. hinges look simple enough. are those the "worn out" 280 shocks i was reading about or different thing?

i was searching and found this old post. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=74271&highlight=front+tilt+hinge Has anyone made any progress or have input on the better hinge system to use. mine work but its getto. not safe i dont think for speed. didnt fly off at 55 with the "test drive" on the trailer from point a-b.

early ones should interchange but the mid late date 260's use a differnt deal

well..... dont have to narrow the D44 cause it will fit in there with about a 8-10 inch wheel as is. however, talking with my dad he mentioned to make sure it has 3" axle tubes or I will have to custom make suspension brackets for the 4link/ladders (whatever) i use. i will likely use the Jegster suspension thats been talked about here. cant think of the user name right now but chatted many times and he loves it. cross between 4link and ladders that are fairly short front to back and are simple. they are called ss bars.