Cable
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Posts posted by Cable
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I need these....
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A buddy found this car in the woods of Calaveras County in the Summer of 2018 while clearing dead trees. Hadn't been registered since at least 1992. After getting it outta there, doing a lien sale, having a VIN verification, and misc DMV hoops the car is mine. Its a late 1975 car, decent body shape considering the time it sat abandoned. Last Summer I finally got busy on the teardown and build.
I knew I wanted to go full tilt on this car, especially since my wife wants to drag race it. So we backhalved it, 4 link, narrowed 9" Ford, and a Rhodes Cage.
A turbo LS was always the plan, but it eventually evolved into twins. A Powerglide was also the initial transmission selected, but after a decent 4L80e was found for $100, I decided to go that route. Added a HD2 kit and all seals for good measure. Converter is a no name 10" billet from a truck I had, but it kept smoking lockup clutches, so the last time it was repaired under warranty, it became a shelf piece while my truck got a billet Pro Truck Yank Triple Ciutch.
Bought a Holley Terminator X Max for engine and transmission management. The gen 4 5.3 engine came from a 2010 Tahoe with a dead DoD lifter. I pulled the motor down, changed all 16 lifters with LS7 units, hardened pushrods, BTR 660 spring kit, LS9 head gaskets, ARP head studs, and a custom 22x/22x cam.
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Hey guys, like the title says I am looking to buy just a front set of lowering springs. Seems I have removed a bunch of weight during my LS twin turbo conversion since the front end is a tad high....
The rear of the car has been tubbed so I don't need rear springs. I don't need front adjustable coilovers either or the added fabrication involved for type of action this car will ever see.
Just a pair of drop in lowering coil springs will do me just fine.
So if you know a store or retailer, even a private seller, i would appreciate the info.
Thanks!!
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Hey guys, I am having issues with steering wheel being too close for comfort too.
A bit of background, the car has been backhalved for drag racing. I am over 6' tall and not a lil dude. I already tried using a flat steering wheel and its still damn near in my chest. I am not the running the stock dash, turn signals, or stock ignition, so nothing mounted on the stock 280z column is a concern.
I just want the steering wheel at least 6" further away. Ideas on how to do this easiest would be appreciated. I have a welder and associated tools.
Thanks!!
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Digging up an old thread....
I am having issues with steering wheel being too close for comfort too.
A bit of background, the car has been backhalved for drag racing. I am over 6' tall and the flat steering wheel is damn near in my chest. I am not the running the stock dash, turn signals, or stock ignition, so nothing mounted on the stock 280z column is a concern.
I just want the steering wheel at least 6" further away. Ideas on how to do this easiest would be appreciated. I have a welder and associated tools.
Thanks!!
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On 12/4/2017 at 3:04 PM, grannyknot said:
Don't know if this will help you but I tossed the stock sliders, cut of the tabs on the 350z seats and welded on threaded studs to the 350z sliders, easy install.
This is awesome info since I don't have the original seats!!
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On 1/27/2017 at 2:48 PM, grannyknot said:
That was 9yrs ago so you may not get a reply from the OP, to take apart the stock sliders you need to knock out the carriage bolts and there is a little tab that needs to be bent up or cut off, there is not much to it once you get it apart.
The way the OP did it, it looks like he added a little more than an inch to the height to the bottom of the seat, you can just weld a bolt to the 350z slider at the front and a thin cross bar at the back and keep the head room.
Another bump...
Since I don't have my original S30 seats, thinking this is my best bet with my recently bought 350z seats. Almost done 12 point caging and tubbing my `75 S30. The suspension points for the 4 link and main hoop will cost some leg room as it is, but I needed something other than fiberglass/aluminum/plastic ridged race seats.
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Digging up an old thread....
Great writeup with pics. I am 6'0, but wanted to keep the seats as close to the floor as the stock seats (especially for helmet reasons), plus, like you my wife wants to drive on occasion (5'1"), so I need to retain adjustable seat position.
Hopefully picking up a cherry pair of cloth manual 350z seats tomorrow.
Unfortunately for me, my stock seats got tossed by a buddy who didn't realize I would need pieces of them.
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Which Wildwood hub?
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In for updates....
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Damn...
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8 minutes ago, EF Ian said:
I did some measuring yesterday for speccing new wheels and it look like I'll be able to run a 8.5x16 with a +14/15 offset, there would e no way I could run +20 and thats with skinny coil overs. With the plus 14 I only had 3mm spare, perhaps 4mm at a push.
Good news for you if you only want an 8" then as an 8x16 with +20 offset would bring the wheel to the same place as my 8.5x16 ET14 and therefore its quite likely possible for you. Provided you have coilovers though.
That's great news!! I really appreciate the leg work.
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20 minutes ago, mtnickel said:
They’re probably as strong as like stock 240sx axles.
Youre best off looking for used z31t axles. They are much beefier and will hold the power.
I will hold out looking for a set of OEM Z31T shafts as long as possible. Worse case, the Rockauto versions are cheap enough to live with regular street tires for a bit.
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1 minute ago, mtnickel said:
Not sure what pic you looking at. The oem z31t can only be shortened like an 1/8”, but that little bit is appreciated and useful.
The rockauto can’t be shortened, but already happen to be ever so slightly shorter and do fit with these adapters without binding. They however are probably only strong enough for 300hp or so;maybe more, maybe less, depending drivetrain and tire traction and abuse.
Maybe in the pic I had a passenger side of one and a driver side of the other.
I meant what Rockauto shows....
If the Rockauto pieces are only good for 300, that ain't gonna cut it. The 6.0 LS turbo setup I am tossing in the car has already made 690 rwhp at 14 psi in my K5. Eventually I am going with a backhalf with a narrowed Dana 60. Might need to run way less boost....lol.
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7 minutes ago, mtnickel said:
$225 shipped plus PayPal fees. But it now includes a jig to aid with welding. You must ship the jig back or to the next user.
Excellent. I will hit you up later this week.
How do these would with the Rockauto Turbo CV Z31 that are running the tripod setup vs the OEM cage? I thought I read you can't shorten the tripod style. I have a 280z btw.
Rockauto show that one shaft at 20 5/8" and the other at 19 27/32". I wonder if it would be better to get two of the shorter shafts.
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6 minutes ago, primaz said:
From others on the forum, I found these, which to me look to be one of the best CV kits to also consider
http://www.zcarblog.com/tag/cv-axles
You just love trying to spend other's money.
NOT spending $1600 on a CV setup when a weld on adapters and brand new CV's cost less than $400. Besides, the long term plans for my car include a narrowed Dana 60 and a full backhalf tub and cage.
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10 minutes ago, primaz said:
Dude,
Just rent that tool for $50 bucks that I posted and you can be assured of getting the perfect offset for your Z and eliminate any spacers. I do not understand what is the big deal? You can see from two of my 240's that a 245 will clear the stock body without any limiting of turning the wheels to full lock. I think our Orange Z with the +13 would clear without rolling but we rolled it to make sure. When you are going to find that perfect size to keep the fenders non rolled, just rent that tool and then you will be 100% correct with no guessing. Both of the two 240'z's I posted are street cars and the Orange one is a very mild ride with full coil overs that my wife drives. Sorry but to me, "don't be cheap, just rent the tool and measure your car".
This ain't my first rodeo DUDE. I have owned these cars for 20+ years, been a member of this site for 15 years, and have built many more for customers. Who do you think you are attempting to give me advice? Comedy!!
I have absolutely ZERO interest in renting a tool if I already know 245mm will fit with a +0 offset 16x8 wheel. I was simply curious if anyone has run a +20mm and cleared everything in the rear. Blowing $50 on a rental tool (with a joke $400 deposit) is exactly that....blowing money.
The topic was a simple question.. So if you aren't running a 16x8 wheel with +20mm offset (in the rear)....I am not interested in hearing your opinion(s).
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On 5/25/2018 at 10:21 PM, mtnickel said:
I make weld on adapters now that basically do not add any width to where the stock square companion flange sits. You even need to lightly grind the stub axle so it's flush with the companion flange. I ran both sides through their entire suspension travel. Contrary to popular belief, the axle is tightest and most likely to bind at full droop. Even with my adapters, both sides need the CV cages flipped to be safe. The adapters also work with the Rock auto reman z31 turbo axles, though they are not nearly as strong as the OE nissan ones. They in turn use the 280zx tripod style CV and there is no cage to be flipped. Luckily they are ever so slightly shorter and still work with the adapters.
I'll try and get a for sale post or thread up one of these days. Can find me on DPAN.
Mark
I like this option..... how much for a pair?
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4 hours ago, EF Ian said:
Well, it would, but its going to be super close to the shock at the rear if it clears at all and at the front you will be hitting the chassis on full lock.
I planned on some bolt on 25mm spacer/adapters for the front. Coilovers might be in order to get the added clearance I need in the rear.
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I have owned two previous 1975 280z, both ran 245/50/16 on XXR 002 16x8 +0mm, but needed to roll the fender lips.
I was just thinking a +20mm offset on a 16x8 will tuck under more to get away from having to roll the fender lips.
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4 minutes ago, NewZed said:
Here's one for $8000. Or he might let you take a picture.
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/chico-1975-datsun-280z/6789601347.html
Called and left a msg already on Monday. Hasn't returned my call.
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9 minutes ago, primaz said:
I am curious where are these supposed to be attached to the car? do they all suppose to have this on the car?
Underside of the hood.
They usually aren't needed on vehicles excempt from emission testing.
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3 minutes ago, EF Ian said:
That would definitely fit on my car as its only 10mm further in than my current setup and not as far in as my planned 8.5" 245 rear setup will be.
Not sure on the front though, while I can run wider there it would mean less lock as my 225/45/16 8x16 +10 already hits on full lock.
I would get +0 for the fronts.
Are you running rear coilovers? How much room do you have on the inside on the rear?
Thanks.
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6 minutes ago, ZHoob2004 said:
Z Car Source has them available for 70-72 and 78 and they all look the same minus the year. Should be a good source to duplicate one, or you can ask them and maybe they'll produce a '75 version for you.
https://zcarsource.com/decal-tune-up-emissions
EDIT: Actually looks like zcarsource used the same preview for all 4, and the later ones look different. Here's a '78 example, I imagine the '75 looks more like this but it would be nice to get some confirmation
https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/tune-emission-decal-1978-datsun-280z
Unfortunately they don't make a 1975 version and won't make anything special without 100 being purchased.
Need 280z Tail Light Bezels
in Parts Wanted
Posted
I need these guys, shipped to Jackson Ca 95642. I read that 2+2 won't work, just 2 seaters. Thanks!!