Cable
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Posts posted by Cable
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Do you have any Dyno numbers cable? Also, what is it stalling up to on launch? Car weight?
Never felt the need to spend money on a a dyno run that wouldn't change a thing except maybe bragging rights (which carries little interest). I'd guess in the 350 whp range.
Not sure on the flash of the converter, I still have to review my data log and I'll know then.
The car weighs about 2750 lbs (full interior, including A/C) without me.
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The car is still naturally aspirated. Who knows if I'll ever turbo it, nitrous is more likely.
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What Trans? My S30 LSx swaps with the 4L60e measure 20.5" center U-Joint to center U-Joint.
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The '98-'02 F-Body oil pan and the '05-present LS2/LS3 Y-Body oil pan should work nicely for half the cost of the Canton.
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I thought you were trying to sell that at one point?
Yeah, I was thinking about it over a year ago. Not now.
Quite a bit of lift on front end, have you done anything to the front shocks and springs?
Everyone asks that and shocked when I tell them its exactly the way it came from Japan in April of 1975. The rear has all bushings replaced with poly-urethane and a OBX/Torsen LSD in a 280zx R200.
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After a 1.5 year break from racing I decided to take her out on Saturday. People were swearing I was getting air under the front driver tire, but I doubt it. She ran a 11.9@115 mph (1.75 60ft), but a bad plug/wire caused a miss under WOT after the 1-2. I replaced all 8 plugs and wires (used when I installed them almost 3 years ago) with Bosch TR55's and MSD 8.5mm wires but who knows when I'll race again.
Anyway, here is she is....
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Well my original question was for 14" wheels, not 16" wheels.
However, now I am running 16x8" wheels with 245/50/16's all the way around with just the rear fender lips rolled.
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www.BrokenKitty.com
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EH HEM. I told you that in the PM chief.
Don't you just love when someone asks you a question, is given a straight/honest answer, but then proceeds to ask everyone else anyway?
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IMO the best LS series for boost is the iron block (pre 2008) 4.8/5.3 due to the 9.4 CR and the thickest cylinder walls of ANY PRODUCTION LS motor. Of course the cost is nice too.
Spot on tuning is REQUIRED too (as previously mentioned).
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Regardless of being in the wrong forum, you are DREAMING.
As much as I love S30's, even a total creampuff is not worth enough to trade for the parts and labor on a LSx swap on another S30, not to mention body and paint work on a car (sight unseen no less) which any decent shop would charge at least $3000+ (not including the price of flares, air dam, etc).
I'll assume you are young (mostly due to the desire for 'Lambo' style doors) and have little to no idea on the amount of work and money it takes to even do a basic LS swap using a 5.3/4L60e combo (cheapest).
My labor STARTS at $2000 for LSx S30 swaps and that doesn't include a single bolt.
Then a basic parts list that adds up QUICKLY to $5000:
-5.3 Engine $500
-4L60e $500
-JCI Mount Kit w/Trans Xmember & driveshaft $700
-F-Body Oil Pan $200
-LS1 Intake/Rails/Injectors $300
-F-Body Accessory Drive (Water pump, Crank Pulley, Alt bracket) $200
-'98-'99 F-Body Manifolds $100
-Stand-Alone Harness Conversion & PCM Tuning $500
-Exhaust Work $500
-Fuel System (pump, regulator, lines) $300
-Radiator w/decent electic fan $300
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My advice to you is to sell your minor nose damaged S30 and start collecting the parts yourself.
Take care.
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Contrary to popular belief, some people swap LS engines in to vehicles other than S30s.
Just a heads up...sometimes people who build other makes of cars come around to your forum to try to glean ideas from other car guys with passions for different cars. Therefore, it's best not to be a smartass ****** bag. It respresents the entire community poorly.
Now look, you've gone and turned me in to a smartass too! Where are my manners?
I guess I am still confused why you came and posted your question in a thread for S30's, yet clearly aren't working on a S30. I suggest next time taking your question to a PM instead of clouding up the thread.
I seriously doubt ANYONE here who knows me is going to come to your rescue, but who are you to come here and start calling names in my house?
Continue acting this way and the moderators will have the rest of us smelling TOAST.
Have a nice day.
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To the OP: Looks like you have removed your power steering all together....and idea on how to create provisions to keep the PS pump?
Why would I want/need to keep power steering when no S30 ever came with it?
If someone was going to go through all the trouble of putting a power steering rack and pinion setup in their S30, then they aren't going to be worried about the cost and time involved in swapping out the truck water pump and crank pulley to the F-Body pieces and retaining the entire FEAD, including the power steering pump.
Take care.
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Hey I am using the same manifolds on turbo project, but I was wondering what plug wires you are using? My coils are the square truck type and the drivers side #5 is too close to even get a plug wire on the coil. Did you have you move your coils at all?
Thanks!!
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Lookup member 'The_Woj'
I sold him my big block powered Z 3 years ago and it had 3" dual exhaust (one on each side) exiting in front of the rear tires.
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On my LS1 swap I have done the typical mounting of the (02) plastic camaro tank and use the integrated pump and sender just like the stock camaro setup uses. Also using the C5 filter and return line commonly done.
Have wired up the sender and pump fine but am wondering what others have done with their charcoal canister and vent lines coming off the tank? Right now I just left those parts as is and it works fine but a couple times filling up I notice a gas vapor smell. Not sure if this is just gas slosh coming up the vent line or what.
I believe I have capped off the stock LS1 gas vapor recirc thing on the engine and the smell seems to be coming from the tank area rather than the engine itself.
I've searched (and copied others) installs of their Camaro tanks but can't find a good answer on what has been done with the charcoal canister and vent line routing.
Pic for reference. Just FYI and not my setup exactly.
I removed the charcoal canister and put the vent on a one-way check-valve.
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Cable, thanks for your learned reply. How hard was it to replace the converter, and, did you have to re-tune? Lastly, would this also explain why I can take my foot of the gas pedal, from a dead stop, and the car will accelerate to 10-20-30 and on?
Good to hear from you ole friend
The converter required pulling the transmission which I didn't do myself, instead I called in a favor at my buddy's trans shop. It was done in less than a day.
Some say you need to retune to avoid a code and some other issues, but I think that is with a setup that has never previously been tuned. I drove around for a month before playing with the trans settings in the PCM (I now own HP Tuners Pro) and never had any issues.
If the idle is high enough, it will easily move a light car to 30 mph.
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The sensor on the side of the transmission tells the PCM when the transmission is in in gear and automatically raises the RPM to compensate for the torque converter pulling down the engine, this is done to avoid the engine from running rough and/or stalling. On lighter cars like our Z's, the converter doesn't have near as much load as a Camaro or Silverado would due the increased weight.
On throttle cable cars, the idle is raised with the PCM telling the idle control valve to open enough to raise the RPM. This can be changed in the PCM tune. When you install an aftermarket cam in a car with a stock converter, the idle problem gets even worse.
I swapped out my stock converter for a 3200 stall until a month ago and was able to lower the idle (both in and out of gear) quite a bit since the converter pulling the motor down any longer.
Hope this helps.
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....curse the LS1 gods..
You won't be doing that after you smash on some Civic (or the like) the first time after getting it moving under its own power...
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Just measured the stroke. Its a 4.8! WAAAAAAAAH!!
Figured as much. Sorry to be the guy to break the news to you dude.
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Here are some before and after pics of the compressor housing. It was bead blasted, then powder-coated satin (semi-gloss) clear to keep it looking clean and keep the otherwise unprotected aluminum from getting that white corrosion like a battery terminals get. I had him avoid the turbo tag to keep it looking original. I'll prob just end up bead blasting the exhaust housing too and rattle-can it with some of that high heat stuff sold at the auto parts store. Its held up to several sets of headers I've done in the past, I might get lucky and have it last on a turbo housing as well. Of course I'll bake the paint on too.
I don't think I am doing so bad considering I still have ZERO dollars invested since the turbo was given to me.
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That was thought as well, here are a few shots of the nick/chip.
Also, while I was tearing the turbo down for bead blasting, powder-coating the compressor (buddy favor thing), and rebuild/balance I broke 3 of the 6 bolts that secure the exhaust housing to the bearing cartridge. Luckily I have another buddy good at extracting broken bolts, worse case have a machine shop drill them out and re-tap. I was quoted $30 to rebalance the turbo, which is being done even if I don't replace the compressor wheel.
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Well I took off the compressor housing today and the compressor wheel exducer has chip off the very end of one of the blades, maybe 1/8" or so. I was going to have the turbo rebalanced anyway, but should I hassle with finding another wheel or just run it 'as is'? I can't imagine it being much difference, but I am by far no expert on turbo mechanics.
Any help is welcomed and thanked in advance.
Launch Pic...
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted · Edited by Cable
Oh no, those are Hoosier 255/50/16 Drag Radials on another pair of the exact same of the Sportmax 002's I have street tires on.
Regular tires go up in smoke with less than half that much power put to them.
I am running stock 280z axles with the original u-joints, although they are past the power level where they are known to break. Auto are much easier on them vs manual cars which is why they are prob still alive (for the moment). I have a pair of 300zx turbo axles to install if I ever buy the billet companion flanges from MMS to make them work.