Cable
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Posts posted by Cable
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Sorry for the delay guys, we have been SLAMMED during what normally is out 'slow season'. We just rented another shop behind ours and just picked up two more car lifts this morning. So hopefully I can get the final finishing touches on the passenger side header the last week of the month.
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I have had a few made in the past. Usually speedometer shops can do it, but alot of oil field type supply shops can custom built anything you on demand.
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We build custom LS series motors down here in Bakersfield.
If you are up for a drive, PM me.
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I remove all factory fuel lines and re-plumb with 3/8" feed and 5/16" return (if needed).
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Has anybody used Jegs' universal LS swap oilpan package? It includes pan, windage tray, pickup, gasket, bolts and washers, dipstick and dipstick tube for $158 plus shipping.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance/809/19212593/10002/-1
Its a great deal for what is included and it will fit in the S30, however the oil pan sump will hang below the engine crossmember a decent amount. Unless you buy an aftermarket custom oil pan, you are limited to the '98-'02 F-Body oil pan or the '05-'07 LS2 Y-Body (Corvette) oil pan PERIOD. Trust my experience when I say that I have done MANY of these swaps to know what works and what is available.
BTW, the oil pan being sold is/was a factory GM pan used in the H3 with the 5.3 V8. GM sells the oil pan kit cheaper than buying the H3 oil pan alone, go figure. No wonder they needed a 'bailout'....
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The driver side goes in with the engine installed from the bottom with just the steering coupler unbolted.
The passenger side is giving me problems in order to install with the engine already installed.
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Interesting about the fly by wire, hadn't considered that; was mostly thinking about 400hp/400lbstq...Lets consider the the opposite end of the spectrum: 5.3 iron block with a 5-speed and a carburetor kit: Is there a no-brainer kit to allow joining the 5.3 with a 5-speed and fitting it in a 240z? If there is, we may be onto something. I can get a 5.3 at a wrecking yard near my house for $800 with no accessories. But, a nice carb is $500 and the manifold and control box is $800. A clutch kit will be about $500 and a fresh 5-speeds is $1400...Now I'm at over $4k...which really isn't bad if compatible parts are available so that I don't get bogged down in a bunch of parts that won't work together...
$800 is way too much IMO for a 5.3 missing things. I can get complete turnkey 5.3's with all accessories, harness, PCM, sensors, MAF, etc for less than $600. Even with freight, its a better way to go.
The drive by wire or DBW is super easy to deal with. Too many folks raise a stink because they are scared of it or something. Keep the factory EFI. You won't save a dime going with a carb after buying a carb and the correct intake manifold and ignition box.
The T-56 is also a great trans for your goals. Yes, a World-Class T-5 will also work, but its a much weaker trans and really wouldnt save alot of coin.
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Shopping for a drop-out. I want to go fast without having to modify the donor motor/trans. Is a 2005/2006 6.0 GTO LS2/T56 a good drop-out unit to use? Any swap problems/issues with this model compared to others? Is there a better power vs. dollar LSx unit to use? Any issues with the belt-driven accessories or oil pan, etc? I have a source within 1-hr drive.
Where are you located (city/state)?
The '05-'06 GTO LS2/T-56 is a decent engine/trans, however you will have to change the alternator bracket to a '98-'02 F-Body. You will also have to change out the GTO LS2's oil pan, oil pickup, and windage tray from a '98-'02 F-Body or '05-'07 LS2 Y-Body (Corvette).
Depending on how much you can get the dropout setup for it still might be worth it. Generally in my experence, the truck engines are much more cost effective dollar for dollar (see this post for more detail: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/92580-down-on-truck-engines/ ). The LSx mounting kit from JCI (www.BrokenKitty.com) is the only way to fly IMO. There are two shorty header options available, however I am developing a set of a long tube headers for production as we speak ( http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95480-who-is-genuinely-interested-in-buying-lsx-long-tube-headers-for-s30s/ ).
Most will agree here on Hybridz that I know my stuff, albeit sometimes a little direct. I have done more than a few LSx swaps (25+), including a few S30's. I am usually pretty up to date on things and happy to help. Feel free to PM any questions you have that might not need an entire thread started to answer.
Take care.
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No offense, but I am not going to pay $45 for a used item that I can get for $50 BRAND NEW on eBay from a Nissan Dealership.
Thanks anyway.
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Ran out of bends for the passenger side. Waiting on replacements.
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918's are good well into the upper 230's. No worries.
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www.CalSpeedPerformance.com
We will meet or beat any price. I am still working on the site, but if you know what you want, we can get it. Plus our shipping rates are very reasonable to the land down under.
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I have the Lunati Voodoo 60511 cam (.567/.567" lift, 222/228 duration@0.050" on a 113 LSA) in my LSx along with GM ' yellow' valve springs and Comp Cams 7.400" pushrods.
IMHO, if you are going to go through all the trouble of doing a cam swap (especially if the engine is already installed), better to make it worth it with larger cam making decent power gains over the stock cam or LS6 cam.
So unless you got the LS6 cam for free, its not worth your time and money for the min HP/TQ gains to do the swap.
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Still looking....
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ive got the whole setup uh what like 20 plus shipping? im 91350
$25 shipped? From a '75-'78? PayPal address?
or jsut come pick it up im right next to magic mountain in santa clarita
Naw, would rather you ship it if its what I need, thx anyway though.
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Yes, def. still interested in these headers. Was the decision made to go with a 3/4 because of clearance issues? Just wondering if there will be a later production of 1 7/8's set, as i would probably just wait for those.
No plans to ever make anything but 1 3/4" primaries....
Sorry.
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I have a '75 280z, I believe the 280z version was different from the earlier 240z version, but I could be mistaken.
Needs to be in working order and runable as is.
Price with shipping to a business address in Bakersfield, Ca 93308 would be great.
Thanks guys!!
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Updates?
I am interested to see what you did for the downpipe....
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Do you have any pics of under the car where the turbo downpipe routes?
Thanks!!
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Work has been slamming me and havent got far on the passenger side header. Tomorrow it is the first thing I have planned.
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I know we are beating a dead horse but geesh, it seems like someone could step up and offer good long tube headers for the JCI kit that aren't so cost prohibitive. The market is there, we have proven that. I'm OK for making power elsewhere and have pretty much resigned myself to JCI or JTR headers. It's awful hard to justify $1200-$1500 on a set of custom headers when you can do a cam/spring swap for less than half of that and gain more power.
Frustrating for a gear head, it's like wanting to fish below a lake, knowing that the fish are there and ready to catch but the damned Corps of Engineers won't open the spillway.
I don't even care about the ground clearance issues (to a point of course) and would be more than willing to scrape the ceramic off mine on a speed bump just to have them...
I don't want to sound like I'm hijacking the thread but I think that one of the primary reasons for most people to even contemplate a different kit than the JCI setup is because of limited choices in the header department. That seems to be true in this case, again.....
Working on a set of long tubes as we speak.
Check it out and let me know if you are still interested....
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Okay guys, the driver side fits. Still need to attach the collector, but it gives you an idea, especially compared to the driver's side JTR/Sanderson header. I figured the driver's side would be the hardest due to the steering shaft. Gotta get some other work done and then I'll get started on the passenger side.
Sorry for the poor pic, digital camera is broken...
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Just for future reference for buyers or sellers in case they didn't know Both left and right outside handles can be put on the opposite side they are taken off or they are interchangeable. Good luck getting one Cable.
Actually I did know that
, that's why I didn't bother posting which side I needed. Thanks anyway though!!
I have an average one $15.00 shipped.
Sweet. PayPal?
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Thanks Cable, that is an interesting and cheap method! I have to figure out if I have the room to drill/tap the engine in the bay, otherwise it is cheaper to just replace the entire front end accessories than to get a lift and go through pulling the motor.
If you have an angle drill its easy. That's how I did mine and it was easy. Remember, we have the same car(s) so if I can do it with the engine installed, you can too.
, that's why I didn't bother posting which side I needed.
Need help getting auto meter fuel lever to work
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
It isn't worth the trouble, Miles' gauge still doesn't work correctly (reversed). I spent the extra coin on the programmable Auto Meter fuel level gauge. After buying the regular gauge from a third party dealer, then sending it to Auto Meter, paying them to do the work, and it still isn't working correctly, I doubt Miles will agree it was worth it either.