gretchen/jason

For goldfish Im running a SBC 350 with a weiand 144 series supercharger 750 cfm demon supercharger carb . As for my intake plumbing i had hood clearance issues even with a all fiberglass hood with a 4 inch cowl scoop i got from a huy in california . So i went to a local sheet metal shop to have a " air filter box" made basically its 11 inches across maybe more i forgot the exact number , 8 inches from front to back above the carb flange itself its 1 1/2 inches tall towards the front of the engine then rises to 2.25 inches in the rear . As it goes towards the sides of the car and carb it drops down 4 1/2 inches to accept a 3 inch tube on each side of the carb . For a better idea take a bok and 2 shoe boxes seperate the shoe boxes a bit and set the book across them like a bridge same idea just looks better . Then i ran a 3 inch exhaust pie that was slightly bent from just about the front strut tower all the way to the radiator support where the hole on the drivers side was for the stock AFM intake tube . Did the same on the passanger side as it had a hole from factory also . As i cut out the stock 78 280z turn signals in the front i bought a 90 degree elbow from the auto store and called K&N for filters that flowed 600 cfm each and installed one on each side of the car . So instead of seeing turn signals behind the front grill ya now see 2 K&N air filters . In the summer time i run without a hood as it hardly ever rains here and i use the intake setup like on a drag car with the 3 buterfly holes in them . The setup i have now is for winter time as a snow covered engine would suck .

Ive read a few post about superchargers and intercoolers . Of course this is with EFI systems . I have a carb operated supercharger . The intake tubing is the same as a EFI system . All seald running dual 3 inch pipes for intake tubing with 2 K&N cone filters in front of the radiator . would it be worth it . Would the air flow or boost be affected ? In the summer ive recorded air temps at the air box on the carb itself at about 100 degrees average maybe 110 at the most before it enters the supercharger . in the winter time well about 40 degrees air temp . . It would be a nice mod if its worth doing the more mods the better i say or at least its fun talking about them at shows . Jason

Looking for seats for my 78 280z dont need racing seats they would be nice though .what can i use what brand anything from the junkyard ? Mitsubishi seats ? anything like that . My stock seats are broke and need to be junked . Jason blown sbc 350 280z .

Thats a nice dash i thought my plexi glass dash was different that dash ya made is something im going to try myself a bit different but close to it . if it doesnt work i can keep my plexi glass dash . Jason 78 280z

I had a set of SBC 350 heads ported and such 3 angle valve job the exhaust valve for instance is what im concerned about as im running a super charger and the intake is of little concern So id like to ask how much will i notice the port job the cfm flow on a bench flow machine took a 1.5 exhaust valve the first test showed 185 cfm with a 490 lift i believe it was measured in inches of mercury to acomidate the high altitude where i live . So after some grinding it went from the above stated flow 185 cfm to 235 cfm with the same 490 lift i assume its alot even though the numbers dont seem to different any remarks are welcome

Ok ive seen fiberglass sheets and resin and such . Nowif i have a skeleton laid out say for a dash i assume i lay a fiberglass sheet over it secured of course and coat it with resin ? The do i add more sheets ? How do ya get it smoth enough to paint ive seen people use bondo over fiberglass . im looking to make a dash and center console i can build a frame out of balsa wood very very light weight its just the other half im wondering about Jason

Well i upgraded to H4 bulbs 80 watt low beam 100 high beam much brighter then stock but doesnt seem to "beam " down the road . Ive adjusted and adjusted but i cant get that beam to shine on the road like the stock ones did . It could be the lens and housing itself seeing as i got it at a local auto store maybe there is a better housing any ideas . Jason

Well my light and switch used to put power to the passanger side of the window but some place in the glass probably from the prior owners window tint install cut the conection in the bars someplace

Couldnt hurt i wouldnt think

So my rear defroster/defogger doesnt work in fact all the bars in the window have almost been scraped away and i dont have the relay or the switches anymore to use it if it were any good . Is there another option besides replacing the glass its the origanal glass and still is in good shape has anyone tried any small heaters or something to solve this problem . Jason

Well my wipers on my 78 z suck also . I have a 180 amp alternator and ran a direct switch with 10 gauge wire to the "fast" side of the motor just a on/off switch 1 speed is all i have and it is no different then what the stock wiring setup could do . As i only use my wipers about oh 3 hours a year im not to woried about it . Jason

Anyone using seats out of any other car other then a z ? Do the fit ok is there a lot of mods to be done . Im asking as mine are shot . Jason

Ive read articles in hot rod mags about methanol injection claims of 40-80 horses added to youre ride and how it helps in high boost aplicaitions . Im running a sbc 350 with a supercharger and about 8-9 lbs of boost what affect does meth injection have on a engine ? Does it actuall add any power like NOS does , and is it even needed with a compression ratio of about 10.1 ;1 . I get loads of the stuff at work " very potent winsshield washer fluid " stuf is pretty flamable untill its diluted with watter . Jason

Well i assume i have a R180 from a stock 78 280z but my diff is out of a early 80,s nissan truck for the 4.11 gears how much power will it hold up to rite now im at 340 crank hp with 360 torque crank and no problems except a clunking sound from my struts !!! Jason

Yes another problem solved now for the floor boards and frame rails yuck oh and one rocker pannel and a right frnt quater pannel hope to use all fiberglass . 1,000$ black pearl z upon purchase i guess ya get what ya pay for spent at least 9 grand so far yowser

Man ya dont know for months it burned me up . Zmanco Castle rock Colorado huh im in the springs any good car shows up that way on the weekends . Seems im the 1 and only z at any show i go to down here Kinda sucks as every import thinks they are better then me . Oh i belong to the club in denver forgot to re sign for this year . Jason

Yep who would of thought i tried at least 3 different fans and 4 different watter pumps and watter pump pulley sizes , so i then slaped in the biggest rad i could 21 inch wide core by 19 inches tall over all 26 wide by 19 1/2 tall with a 1/2 to 3/4 inches left in width for space .

So i went from jags That Run Radiator that solves all problems to a summit racing 2 row universal radaitor and the same fan on the same temp mornings 35 degrees and the same route to work same rpm,s and man get this only 175 degrees with a 180 stat !!! Before with a 180 stat i hit 200 degrees with the 1 row rad . Now im going to get some fans and custom build a shroud that can pull at least 6,000 cfm of air to over come the static pressure from the front of my z . Oh all these tests were done with no bumper no turn signal nothing but a hood and a radiator ,it seemed the more air i tried to force into the rad the worse it got the more i blocked the rad from the free flowing air the better it got doesnt make sense but it worked somewhat blocking air flow from the front end to the rad made my z run cooler go figure . Jason

My power booster is trashed vac leaks all over the thing . I cant seem to find a replacement one . Are there upgraded ones out there that swap from some other car to a 280z . I curently use the 280zx master cylinder if that is of any concern . Jason

Sure ill post a pic but how do i get it on the same page that i type my replies on ?

Not sure if this fits under this forum but what is the weight of a 78 280z minus the bumpers and hood and bumper shocks roughly i say . And with 280 horse and 310 ft lbs of torque to the tire what could a z do on the track

Is there anyway to slow down the watter pump itself as to get the watter to flow the same speed at 3 grand as it does at idle in other words slow it down quite a bit ive tried restrictor plates but not much luck . The watter flows to fast at speed to cool off enough as i can never get the t stat to seal like it should and ive tried everything even ordered a new neck from chevy and t stat sealed it with silicone and such still no luck . When i leave in the morn if i turn on the fan it takes 10 miles for the temp to hit 180 turn it off and about 2 miles of driving .

Scoops under the ride huh befor or after the front cross member ? from frame to frame ? not sure how it would act with snow on the ground but a pic would be good as my engine never ever went over 195 with the hood removed maybe the under car scoops can force the air out the cowl even more as it blows it out somewhat decent now ill try anything twice

I did try to tape off te cowl opening no diference there so i left the tape in place and then took the inspection lids off no difference there either . So i removed the tape left the lids off and nothing happend . It is strange as ive always dealt with cars that overheat when standing still at a light or something but mine is the opposite if i drive 40 mph for 10 miles non stop it hits oh about 190 with a 180 stat now if i sit at a light or my case my driveway i can let it idle for a hour and it will never go over 175 !!! Ive yet to get the t stat to work properly as watter always flows past the stat no matter how i seal it . This may be my issue . I ordered a new stat and neck from chevy then i put a bit of good silicone in the grove where the stat sits then on the gasket itself i torqued the neck down let it dry for 24 hours filled it up and bang the watter flows past the stat once again . besides what someone mentioned cutting fins off the pump impellar is there another way to slow the watter down . im still working on getting close to stock vents back in place but untill then maybe i need to slow the watter down to keep it in the rad longer .

Ill give it a shot and see what happens . Ive even thought of getting a small video recorder and putting it under the hood someplace and ataching strings in certain aeras and see which way they sway problem with that no room for a camera sigh