gretchen/jason

I was wondering if that would have the same affect wher can one get some of those vented inspection lids . I saw some from MSA but they want mine in return but i drilled a hole in the lip of one lid to add a trigger for my car alarm .

Well ive got a 4 inch cowl induction fiberglass hood made by a guy in cali . Nice hood but im looking for ideas to put vents in this hood in the aera about where the sock 78 280 hood vents were to help get the heat out from under the hood . As it is now the fan blows te air out of the cowl and ove the windshied i assumed this would be ok but have been told that this isnt a good thing so if anyone has hood vent pics with a non stock hood id love to see some to get a idea of what i should do Thanks Jason Blown sbc 350 soon to be Nos injected

The previous fan was a clutch fan it did the same thing it throws the air through the opening and over the windshield . As far as the cowl goes id assume i need to drill or add holes about the aera where the stock hood vents would be ? Id hate to cut my hood apart but if that is what it takes i guess i need to do so ouch . Would it do the same thing if i had louvered inspection lids ? Id hate to put holes in my hood then have the same problem i do now

Well id figure out the power range like everyone else says but id stick with like 4.11 gears or better but if automatic use a 4 speed trans and so on . i have 4.11 gears with a 3 speed auto chevy trans its outrageous for the 1/4 mile anythng else it sucks 65 mph well its like 3,700 rpm with a 25 inch tall tire . but ill tell ya this in the 1/4 mile a evo or sti or even some new vettes cant hold up with me but after 100 mph well im out of gas wish i did the 4 speed t start with . 78 280 z blown nitrous 350sbc

Just wanted to ask and see what people are using in a v8 z 1 row 2 row or 4 row rads im using a 1 row from JTR just curious if people are using thicker rads to cool off the ride . Jason

I figured id post a new post as now i have another question about getting rid of heat under the hood . Ive tried a few things i actuall got a chin pan and it made things worse so its gone then i swaped to my electric fan so far so good 180 t stat and only 185 on a 27 degree morning .On a 50 deree day about 190 degree temp readings . Wanted to ask about my cowl induction scoop well i taped a string to the edge of it and turned on the fan it blew the string towards the windshield so i am guessing thats ok . Then i drove at different speeds from oh 35-70 mph and it still blew the string towards the windshield the only time it sucks the string inward is when i turn the fan off so i assume im venting the heat ok . Does all this sound ok like i said at the moment so far so good . Jason

Not sure i got my 2 speed fan out of a station wagon of the same year then 2 2 ford taurus but no sho fan to hard to find a sho around here . But that is a good link ive tried stock ducting i found a chin pan as someone gave me a pic of one that made my heating problem worse i tried to block off the whole air damn to the rad no luck it seems a decent fan and free flow in any direction works somewhat . But if there is a bigger badder electric fan out there i am just looking for it . Maybe i should have done a sr20dett swap less engine but same power seeing as i spent 4 grand for only 290 wheel horses . i agree to many fans that could work are to big to fit

Ive tried the 2 speed ford tarus fan i actuall have 3 of them and i tried a Black magic extreeme fan very nice as it shrouds the entire rad core and pulls 3,300 cfm of air . Is there a fan out there that can really suck the air i mean like 4,000 cfm plus that would fit say 19 inches high and 22 inches wide ive seen some that pull 5,000 plus cfm but they are to big to fit under the hood . Even if i need to build a shroud to fit it no problem Thanks in advance Jason

Another update i poked around somemore and decided to use my Black magic electric fan keeps a more stable temp now lower then 190 about 185 with a 180 stat and the fan seems to blow the air under and to the rear of the car instead of out to the sides .

Actually the kit from MSA in california a very simple kit used 2 1 inch square steel "tubes" to mount to the stock mount position then stock 350 sbc mounts on top of that

I curently am using headman block hugger headers im my 78 280z sbc 350 on the drivers side the steering shaft was in the way somewhat and i had to dimple the header to get it to fit and then i only have 1/8 inch of clearance . Are there any better block hugger headers out there that can flow good as i didnt like the look of these headman headers . And what about full length headers ive seen some from MSA but for a outrageous price . And then again will they clear the steering shaft ? jason Blown sbc350 280z

I have noticed that the air tends to bounce off the hood and engine and come back through any place in the radiator that isnt covered with the shroud so i attempted to cover those spots didnt notice any difference . The i sealed the entire front of the car off again and installed some sheet metal to cover the gap between the air damn and the rad lower support the only way air was going to travel was through the radiator well this made the problem way worse so i took the sheet metal pan between the air damn and the lower rad support and the temp droped 15 degrees .... Then i ditched the clutch fan for a flex fan that seemed to keep everything at a steady 190 with a 180 stat soim thinking a direct bolt on fan like a flex fan but one that doesnt flex but sucks all the air it can . How do i post pics to my replies and ill take some as soon as i can .

3 speed auto th350 4.11 gears stock rear end 15x9 tires all around

And ill try closing the cowl alone before i cut into my 700$ hood to see what happens after i ad the chin pan if it works then i will take hole cutters and try some holes that look like they belong ther thanks for the web related pics jmortensen and thanks again to everyone else i guess many heads are better then one . Ponder this 280 rear whell horse and 300 ft lbs of torque nail the gas off the line no holds bared tires dont spin ????Thats what my z does

Nope no changes or rewiring i redid the entire harnes and new gauges all at once . Just basic wiring painless wiring fuse block and i hand laid all the wiring my self using nothing less then 10 gauge wire unless supplied with the gauge itself . I used to have the sending unit above the #1 spark plug till i got crazy readings then moved it to the intake maniold it got somewhat better but ya never know . Ill order a new one 12$ and let everyone know what happens

Ok one more question i just got me a electronis thermometer if i spelled it corectly but the laser type so i took a temp reading on my water outlet neck it read 175 then the hose 180 then where the watter enters the rad 180 again the outlet hos whicj is stainless steel 140 then the water pump 175-185 etc etc . All the while my temp gauge reads 210 !!!! i even took a temp reading of the electric sending unit itself 175 and the gauge well 210 . all this stuff is 3 months old is this a normal reading or maybe a bad sending unit ?

Well lately i havent been on the highway so i havent had the watter flowing as fast and it was 48 degrees today at the drive through i hit 190 and nothing more . Will a electric watter pump flow a bit slower then a stock pump at say 3,500 rpms ? Im begining to think the watter isnt in the rad long enough to cool off and i still have my Black magic extreeme electric fan that pulls i think it was 3,300 cfm and covers the entire rad surface aera . Oh Turbo Meister what elec watter pump do ya use ? Jason

Well i took into thought a few things and i do have a weiand 144 blower the timing is all mechanical with a base line of 20 degrees advanced at 6 thou ft above sea level 38 full on advance . I took my usual highway route this morning and it was 33 degrees and raining well at 60 mph and 3,300 rpms i hit 200 degrees so on the way home i went another route 40 mph never got over 185 !!! . So im guessing that the watter flowing past my t stat "4th time ive sealed it this year " Is making the watter travel to fast to cool off at high speeds so when i get off the highway and stop at a light im guessing there isnt much time to cool down . I like the pics of the small holes in the fender wells ill try that also as in the summer the aera around the inspection lids got hot enough to where i didnt want to touch the fender .Thanks bjhines And to Moms z thanks for trying to get a pic to me ill keep looking to see if ya got it . And cozyzcole My z does exactly what youres does i tried the ford taurus fan it was ok but the clutch fan does better for me so far any way . But it was cheap only 15$ for that fan .

Ive thought the same thing i have 3 different pumps ive bought brand new and tried a Milodon high flow pump then a edelbrock high flow anticavitaition pump then a stock pump seems to be the stock pump keeps the temp lower then the rest how well do those restrictor plate discs work in place of the t stat ? And someone mentioned to cut off some fins on the impeller anynoe done that before . It may be worth a try if it helps my situaition Thanks for the advice everyone

So i live in Colorado they switched to winter gas in other words more ethanol then normal . My sbc 350 is blown with 7 lbs of boost i got some rocker arm rattle switched to 4 lbs of boost lost lots of power but no rattle Anyone have this happen to them in the northern states or am i just the unlucky one . Any options or opinions other then buying 110 octane gas as its 8 $ a gallon here . Ive retarded my timing a lot but any advice is welcome Jason Blown 78 Black pearl 280z "ex black pearl z "

Well i did think of that but its been overheating like this for 9 months and i just installed these filters 2 weeks ago . Ive been running without a hood for at least 7 months then it started to snow so i slaped the hood back on it and wham back to the same ole problem . The total exposed aera of the rad to get cool air is 22 wide and 19 high the air filters barley interfere at all . Just wondering which pulls more air at idle a clutch fan or a non clutch fan . If i can beat overheating at idle ill be set .

I tried 3.54 gears with my 3,400 rpm stall converter and didnt like them as far as get up and go is concerned so i switched back to the 4.11 gears im not putting down to much power yet about 280 in horse and 300 in torque to the tires with 7 lbs of boost as the engine only had 230 horses at the crank when i dynoed it with just a 4 bbl carb no blower .

As far as front end mods i added a air damn from MSA the entire bumper and all is fiberglass teh type 3 air damn . the grill is from a 240 i removed bot turn signal housings from behind the grill so as to have nothing what so ever in front of the rad except for to K&N air filters about 7 inches long 5 inches across cone shaped filters . one on each side of the rad but off to the side a bit .

Nope my z doesnt have those pieces i dont even have the fender well plastic inserts that go where the tires are . . I can add one no problem how far back from the lower radiator support does it go like to the steering rack ? And is it completly flat ? Does it attach to the lower rad support also ? Jason

Well i curently have a Th350 3 speed auto in my z but with my 4.11 gears the rpms are to much to get on the highway about 3,400 at 60 mph . I was told to use this trans as the 700r4 or the 4 speed chevy automatic trans wouldnt hold up as good is this trueId like the extra gear for highway driving but want to ask if this trans will hold up as good . Seeing i i blew the Th 350 up only 1 week after i ordered it from jegs it makes me wonder if either one is any good i even thought of using a 2 speed power glide trans Jason Blown SBC 350 78 280z