arizonazcar

The HKS/Greddy flywheel needs a generous radius as the ring gear is cut into the flywheel , it is not a seperate part and is subject to a centrifugal load, the land on the AZC flywheel has the ging gear interference fit onto it , cant go anywhere. There is a huge difference in this that your are not understanding. All racing components should receive regular inspection regardless of manufacture anyhow. John, please tell us how long has the flywheel been on your car and what RPM has it been subject to? By the way look at the recent post by Jason84NA-T titled "flywheel went boom" Stock flywheel, no modifications made to it.

The sharp corner is irrelevant, engaging the starter while running might take the teeth off the ring gear but I dont see how it can damage the land it's mounted to. The land does not see stress unless you'd like to take the ring gear off and break it off with a pliers! Again my flywheel is exactly as thick as the HKS/Trust/Greddy units of which thousands have been sold. There is no stress riser unless you put it in a press and bend it in half. I Reiterate : " I know of no failures in the 8 years or so we’ve been making them." A lot of posts on these forums about theoretical possibilties that just dont occur. Dave

The azc (arizonazcar.com) flywheel is made from hot rolled steel not cast iron like a stock one and is fully CNC machined. My flywheel is exactly as thick as the HKS ones we used to sell until they were discontinued (we sold hundreds of them). I know of no failures in the 8 years or so we’ve been making them. The ring gear land sees no load except for the torque applied during starting, and centrifugal force . The centrifugal loads are offset by the steel ring gear that is interference fit (heat shrunk) into place. John's 3 machinists are wrong and have obviously never seen the flex-plates used as flywheels on stock cars. Also the factory pressure plate bolt torque is 12-15 ft/lbs. , you'll break the bolts off long before they ever strip out. A stock cast iron flywheel is way more likely to fail than my billet steel one Especially if lightened . I would NEVER take a significant amount of material off a cast iron flywheel. Dave

The pistons we sell are forged flat-tops that are 87mm which is 1.0mm (.040") over bore for a stock L-28. They are setup for zero deck height with L-28 crank and L-24 conrods. They are $629.00 for the set of 6 with rings and pins see http://www.arizonazcar.com/piston.html Dave

Thanks for the post Jaime240z , I sell a preium quality kit as complete as it can be, you get what you pay for here's an e-mail I got recently from a guy who tried to save money buying a kit on e-bay from mr. X "Hi Dave, I was a fool and bought a pair of supposed “bolt up†superlite 4 piston calipers and 1.25’ rotors off ebay (I am dumb). I had to drill out the mounting points to get then to bolt up and add long wheel studs. I did all that and got them to fit but the stock 280z brake lines just wouldn’t get a seal. I figured this is because they are not the correct type because the leak is not in the threads. If you could give me any information on why they wouldn’t seal or what type of lines I need to get and were or if you could make me a nice pair of stainless steel lines for the front I would buy them A.S.A.P. I really wish I would have bought your kit in the first place but now I am stuck and just want to get my Z off the stands and back on the road because I seem to spend more time working on it than I do driving it. Any help in shortening my cars down time would be greatly appreciated and if you could make me a nice set of stainless lines give me a price with your response and we can do business. Thanks, Brandon " Ruined calipers, brackets that dont fit, braklines that will never work, garbage hardware, all to save $150 ! Dave

I do indeed include the gasket and socket head bolts, I didn't 5 years ago. Only the fins hang lower than the crossmember for cooling. Comes with 3 dash-8 plugs with O-ring that are flush. I still sell them for $349 although that may change a little. I have supplied them to several resellers both in the US and overseas. Great part! Dave

No version planned for the R-180 as I prefer that R-200 be used where possible. By the way, I'll have a small tent with some of my goodies at the National Z Convention SAT June 19th in Gardena CA if anyone would like to stop by. Dave

The sway bar pickup point on the front arms is there if desired and doesn't preclude alternate methods. Since the sway bar mount is approx. 1 inch from the centerline of the lateral link it exerts very little leverage on it compared to the rod end at the new T/C bracket which is approx 12 inches from center, so it only sees 1/12th the load from the sway bar. If the clevis was on top of the lateral link the distance to the end of the sway bar would be shortened to the point where the maximum angle of misalignment may be exceeded by the endlink rod ends resulting in a possible additional failure mode that otherwise might not exist. Have had customers engage in off track excursions that undoubtedly resulted in loads exceeding the intent of the design without causing failure of the components. All critical suspension and steering components should regularly be inspected for wear, fatigue, corrosion, etc. Keep in mind that any suspension arm no matter how strong is still bolted to a 30 year old uni-body and any load it's designed for can easily be exceeded.....I'll talk about sheer plates on an INDY car at a later date. PS I'll have a small tent with some of my goodies at the Nationl Z Convention SAT June 19th in Gardena CA if anyone would like to stop by. Dave

arizonazcar.com is again making the 3 piece spoiler for $180. It's UPS able so shipping isnt a problem. Sincerely, Dave Epstein Arizona Z Car 2043 E. Quartz St. Mesa AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

NOW THAT'S THE POINT! Dave

Hey Dan, I appreciate the post. A lot of people out there don't realize what it takes to make a high quality product and sell it both in enough quantity and at a sufficient price to make it worthwhile. I too started as a tinkerer making my own parts (20 some years ago), now I employ talented professionals but still never charge more than what I would (and have) paid for a similar part myself. Anyhow I really haven't had time to post before due to the constant backlog of work I've had especially over the last 2 years. I hope to continue post when appropriate and as time allows. Thanks for the welcome! Sincerely, Dave Epstein Arizona Z Car 2043 E. Quartz St. Mesa AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

arizonazcar.com will be making a kit in the near future to replace the brace that interferes with the LSD cover...stay tuned. Dave

The top washers from the bushing will be eliminated (.200 thick) and 1/4 inch can be shaved off the top bushing if necessary. Dave

We've been making the A-Arms for somewhere between 18 and 20 years now, I dont know exactly as I didn't keep precise track of it. But anyhow I sell between 40 and 120 pair per year (you do the math)

The holes are at the same level but spaced farther apart. Dave

The weight of the Billet aluminum mustache bar is 6 lbs complete with bushings. Dave Arizona Z Car 2043 E. Quartz St. Mesa AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

My A-arms are 100% tig welded in a jig after the chromoly tube is cut to blueprint specs. The rod ends you think are cheap are actually QA1 pecision (made in USA) heat treated chromoly with teflon on the front and 3pc precision on the rears. No cheap hardware on my parts ever! $299 each on the fronts, $329 each on the rear and of course they're gold zinc plated for anti-corrosion. The feature ON THE CAR toe adjustment on the rears plus a track adj., the front also have track adjustment plus on the car caster adj. dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

My Billet R-200 must. bar does clear the finned cover, it's the rear brace that's in the way.....we will be addressing that issue very shortly. Dave

Here's the pic's of the R-230 bar, I now have them in stock......same price as the R-200 bar $229 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

Just finished the Billet aluminum mustache bars for the R-230 diff. Will post pictures tomorrow. Dave dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com 480-844-9677

UBELIEVEABLE , Someone has posted their opinion based on first hand knowledge and experience with the product! To Plainswolf: Please post your honest opinion as to whether mixture distribution issues exist and have you examined the sparkplugs for any tell-tale signs of mixture problems. Also please let us know if your air cleaner clears the hood. why not post a picture while you're at it? Thanks, Dave

The only reason I started this thread was in response to an absurd statement posted that the 1st an last cylinder would run lean and that the 4-barrel can not be made to run properly. I NEVER sold these as a drag racing specific part. I'm sure that tripple webbers will make more power (at least they should) as will ANY turbocharged car with EFI, again you miss the point.

My toes aren't stepped on at all.........I sincerely think it would be very usefull to have an independant 3rd party post their first hand observations, especially someone who's both literate and has an interest in the subject. Dave

SHO_Z The dual webbers sit to high to allow a decent aircleaner, This is one of the many advantages my 4-barrel intake has over it. A 9" aircleaner with 2" element clears the hood and allows plenty of airflow, Since you are in Arizona why not take a look in person so you can make a comment with first hand knowledge instead of speculating? Dave

Good point 280ZONE about the motor however the 4-barrel was first installed on the bone stock L-24 and run for some weeks ...the only mods it had then were electronic ignition and a header. The current motor is an L-28 block with N-42 head. The same ignition and exhaust have been on both motors. The L-28 has my .480" lift 280* street cam but NO other internal mods or porting of any kind. I do believe you to be impartial and since you're local why not conduct an interview with me and do a review on my products firsthand so you can post your opinion here as a service to the members. By the way why don't you post who you are and what your experience level with the Z car is for those that don't know. Sincerely, Dave BY the way I have never suggested that anyone remove an perfectly running stock EFI system.